Dr. Gizmo Automotive Columnist

11/16/2023

11/14/2023

“Dr. Gizmo”
By Phil Arendt

EDR Conceals Secrets
Question 1
Dr Gizmo, what does the vehicle computer record and how is that data used? I'm wondering if it captures speed data, for instance, that it would show whether my wife was actually driving well above the 55-mph speed limit. Might it show if my teenager uses the turn signals or not. Is there a computer app available to report that data? Thanks. J.K., email

Answer 1
What you are referring to is a vehicle event data recorder or EDR. Some people call it a Black Box. Basically, it records crash data. It’s an integral part of the supplemental restraint system. It begins recording milliseconds before a crash as sensors and computers begin the process of deploying airbags in a frontal collision. It records vehicle speed, seat belt use, steering inputs, occupant size, occupant position, service brake application, and much more but not if the turn signals are being used.
The federal government set minimum standards for what an EDR must record, but car manufacturers might enhance the data above the minimum standards. There isn’t a computer app for you to tap into the computer. Specialized equipment is connected to the system to download the data. Generally, the information is used by law enforcement and insurance companies during crash investigations. Generally, a court ordered subpoena is required to download the data although a vehicle owner can give permission to download information to a trained and licensed professional authorized to use equipment to download and interpret the data.
Since you are curious how family members operate the family fleet consider installing cameras. Many types are available. They offer a wide variety of data collection using cell phone, tablet and desk top apps.

Pure Gasoline Contains More Energy
Question 2
Dr. Gizmo I love your column.
A friend who knows things claims that the reduction in gas price also has a reduction in mpg. If your car is manufactured to use E85, does it pay to use it? Do the miles per gallon drop with E85 gasoline? Thanks for your expertise. P.R., email

Answer 2
Gasoline that is not blended with alcohol produces more energy than gasoline mixed with alcohol.
Back in the mid-1970s there was a gasoline shortage. To stretch the supply the government mandated blending gasoline with alcohol. They also required the elimination of lead additives in gasoline, began fuel economy standards and emission control standards. Since then, most gasoline sold at pumps is blended with alcohol.
Modern internal combustion engine vehicles use gasoline with a ratio of 90 percent gasoline and 10 percent alcohol or E10. As you mention some cars known as flex fuel vehicles can burn fuel with a mixture of 85 percent alcohol and 15 percent gasoline commonly known as E85. Because this fuel does not produce as much power as E10 there is an increase in fuel consumption, but the pump price might be lower. There might be a monetary savings depending upon miles per gallon driven on a tank of E85 and price but generally there is no savings. To make things a little more confusing if you can find a gas station that dispenses pure gasoline, there are a few, that is not mixed with alcohol it is likely you will experience a boost in miles driven per gallon due to the increased power of pure gasoline and if the price is comparable to E10 it might be easier on the fuel budget. To find out, compare fuel economy with pump price.

Dangerous To Drive
Question 3
I am asking for my dad who owns a 2010 Chrysler Town & Country van with 140,000 miles. It’s been shutting off without warning, when slowing down in a roundabout, pulling away from a stop sign or even going down the road at 55 mph it might stall. If he puts it in neutral it starts right up again, but it’s very dangerous.
I read a recall about this problem. I called our local dealer. They said this vehicle previously had the recall repairs. They said to find the problem they would need to drive it until it did it and there would not be any stored codes for this issue. They also said he would need to pay because the recall was handled before. What is your advice? T.S., email

Answer 3
I understand your concern for your pop. The condition certainly might cause a collision and put not only your pop in danger but others who share the road with him. Until this is fixed it is not safe to drive the vehicle.
There are multitude of reasons for an engine to stall. The condition might not be caused by the original issue that was repaired under a National Highway Traffic Safety Administration safety recall. However, if the cause is the same, dad would pay for the repair unless it was a recent repair that might be covered by a replacement parts warranty policy.
Since it appears that the stalling condition is frequent consider authorizing a dealer shop time to drive the vehicle to verify the condition and find the cause. A technician with equipment connected to the vehicle during a drive can record the event and determine the failure that impairs the engine. Stalling might be caused by exactly the previously repaired recall parts but it’s possible the issue is caused by a failing fuel pump, clogged fuel filter, faulty camshaft or crankshaft sensor, faulty EGR valve, failing ground circuit connection, failing throttle position sensor or more.

Difficult Cold Starts
Question 4
I have a 2008 Pontiac Solstice with a 2.4-liter engine. It’s not a daily driver and only has 57,000 miles. The trouble is when starting with a cold engine it hesitates sputters and stalls. It acts like it is flooded. When I start it cranks, starts and dies or just runs terrible. If I hold the pedal down to the floor when starting it starts after cranking a long time and then if I keep the rpms up to 3,000 and let it warm up the engine smooths out and runs normally. It seems that once it gets to a certain temperature it runs fine. If I shut it off and start up when it is still warm there isn’t any problem.
I went to a parts store for a test. It showed several codes. They were for misfires and four or five faulty sensors. The man doing the test said that the codes likely were not valid. He said I should go to a shop for more testing.
I love this car. I’ve owned since it was new and have taken great care of it. It’s fun to drive. It looks and usually drives like new. Do you have any suggestions? What could be wrong? P.C., email

Answer 4
From your description the issue likely is related to a failing electrical part that seems to return to normal operation once it is warmed up. It might be a computer sensor or perhaps the engine’s powertrain control module.
One sensor that might cause a condition such as this is a failed airflow sensor. It would not be wise to replace it based on my guess. Consider a trip to your favorite repair shop. A technician will need to perform tests and go through a process of elimination with a flow chart. He or she might consider heating parts with a heat gun to see how they react during cold and warm comparison tests.

Reman Unit Best Bet
Question 5
The CVT transmission quit in my 2016 Nissan Rogue SL with a 2.5-liter engine. It has 67,000 miles. It happened while was on the highway. It was making noise and just quit. I had it towed to a shop that has been servicing it. After a quick diagnostic check they told me they don’t repair transmissions. They suggested sending it to a dealership.
I called my dealership. They said they don’t overhaul transmissions. They said they can replace it with a new or remanufactured unit with a warranty. I was shocked when they told me the price.
I called a couple of shops. One said they might be able to find a used transmission from a junk yard. The warranty is only 90 days, but the price is much easier on my budget. What do you suggest? C.K., email

Answer 5
I don’t know your financial situation, but it appears you are considering the offer made by your dealership. While it will cost more a new or remanufactured transmission is likely to last a long time and will have a warranty that is backed by a reputable company for a long time.
The constantly variable transmission or CVT from the salvage yard poses a few issues. It’s used from an unknown vehicle that might have been in a collision or abused by the previous owner. Once it is installed the transmission control module will need calibration to your vehicle. Your shop might not have the software to complete the task. It’s doubtful the salvage yard will be able to help with this issue. Ask your shop about this procedure.
My recommendation is to consider a remanufactured unit installed by an independent shop or dealership shop. It will be complete with software.

Reset Might Do The Trick
Question 6
The sync system radio in my 2016 Ford Focus quit. A friend says he heard that these radios have a bad failure rate. He suggested getting an aftermarket radio, but I like the Ford system. Is there anything I can check before I send it to my dealership for repair? M.R., email

Answer 6
The infotainment system consists of the radio and control module. Sometimes it needs a reset. With the vehicle running and radio turned on remove the radio fuse from the fuse box. Wait 20 seconds or so and reinstall the fuse. The radio might reboot and come back to life. Also, you might find a radio reset procedure on the internet that might do the trick.
If these attempts fail to restore the radio, it’s time to set an appointment with your Ford dealership.

Have a healthy and safe motoring day!

Phil Arendt is a columnist, consultant and A.S.E.-Certified Master Technician. Readers may send questions to Dr. Gizmo at his e-mail address [email protected] More information is available at http://drgizmo89.blogspot.com 02/07/2022 ® DR. GIZMO © 1989 – Present.

Car trouble, automotive industry, automotive news, new car reviews, car care tips, auto repair shops, auto repair.

10/30/2023

“Dr. Gizmo”
By Phil Arendt

New Car Education
Question 1
Will I need to relearn how to drive an electric car as opposed to a common gasoline car? R.D.O., email

Answer 1
The good news is all vehicles are manufactured to government standards requiring identical main control positions for steering wheel, accelerator and brake pedals and turn signals, etc. You shouldn’t have trouble identifying and using these common controls.
As with any new vehicle you will need to learn how it drives and handles and how all accessories operate. Also, it doesn’t hurt to revisit the rules of the road. There is a learning curve. It is important to read the owner’s guide to learn about battery charging, battery electrical consumption, travel range, vehicle controls, accessory controls and operation and preventive maintenance intervals.
Also, presently some pure electric vehicles offer one pedal operation giving a vehicle operator the option to slow a vehicle to a complete stop with the accelerator pedal instead of the brake pedal. It takes a little practice to learn this technique but in the process the battery pack receives a little charge via regenerative braking and the vehicle comes to a complete stop.

Collision With Deer Causes Trouble
Question 2
Recently, I was driving my 2015 Toyota Highlander when a deer jumped out and I hit it. I pulled to the side of the road. I did not shut off my engine. The deer was dead and my car suffered minor damage to the bumper, grille, right fender and right headlight. The police wrote a report and I was able to drive home without any trouble.
The next day, I was going to take it to a local body shop my insurance company suggested. I went to start the engine, but it would not start. The lights turn on and all the accessories work, but the engine does not crank to start. The battery seems fine. I called my repair shop. They will have it towed.
The damage seems relatively minor. The vehicle has never let me down. It has 105,000 miles. I have taken great care of it with oil changes every 3,000 miles. I love it. It’s in great condition. Do you think there is a major problem in the electrical system? Do you think I should consider buying another vehicle? G.R.P., email

Answer 2
It’s a little premature to consider replacing it. Your body shop technicians need to evaluate needed repairs. Your insurance company needs to provide authorization to the body shop before repairs can proceed.
Part of determining what needs repair is to diagnose why it won’t start. Certainly, there is an electrical problem causing the condition. Your shop will diagnose the cause of the trouble. Once that is determined and all repairs are considered you will be able to make the decision whether to keep or replace the vehicle.
From the information you provided it is likely electrical conductors behind the damaged headlight might have suffered damage as well. Since there are numerous control modules in a vehicle any damage to a wire might cause the condition you encounter. Repair might be as simple as splicing a wire or repairing a plug. Be patient. Your beloved vehicle might need a minor electrical repair.

Labor Cost Raises Concern
Question 3
I have a 2011 Toyota Tundra with a 5.7-liter engine and a leaky power steering rack. I’m constantly adding fluid to the reservoir and the leak is making a mess anywhere I park.
I went to my local shop that been servicing it. They found a leak at the steering rack. They tell me it’s a big job to replace it requiring about 13 hours of labor. They told me in all the years they have been in business they have only replaced one steering rack in a Tundra. It’s not very common for them to develop a leak.
The replacement part is not what I consider expensive, but the labor is. I can pour many gallons of fluid into the reservoir for that kind of money but I’m tired of my kids tracking oil into my house. Is there any way to fix this without spending a lot of money? P.K., email

Answer 3
Your shop labor quote coincides with an industry standard labor estimating guide. It is a laborious task that according to a manual requires removal of the engine and more. Be this as it may, experienced technicians discover shortcuts to reduce labor time. Do your due diligence by calling other shops. You might find a shop that can do the work in less time and not charge the standard labor guide time. And, if your shop really wants your business and you have a good relationship with them, they might do some research to find a way to cut the labor time.

Salvage Yard Replacement Part Optional
Question 4
I have a 2008 Chrysler 300 LX with a 2.7-liter engine. Recently, the check engine light turned on, the dash gauges were not reading correctly and the engine intermittently stalled. I went to a trusted repair shop. They found problem codes and determined the trouble was caused by a failed TIP power module. They could not find a new replacement part. They suggested using a used part from a junk yard.
I know that car manufacturers are supposed to make new replacement parts available for at least 10 years. I can’t believe there isn’t one sitting in an auto supply company inventory shelf, but my shop says no. Will the used part work for many years? M.D., email

Answer 4
There is no guarantee a new part will work for many years as designed, but I understand your concern. The Totally Integrated Power Module is a computer module that directs electrical power to several circuits. It does not have a good reputation when it comes to reliability and most technicians are aware of its history.
As for manufactures producing new replacement parts for a decade for each make and model year vehicle they produce, they are not required to manufacture new replacement parts. During the factory warranty period it is likely a new replacement part might be installed to fix a vehicle, but often remanufactured parts are used. Their obligation during the factory warranty period is to repair verified failures in a vehicle. Fortunately for you there are companies that remanufacturer this part so that’s another option you and your shop might consider.
As for the salvage yard part your shop wants to install, the salvage yard likely offers a warranty. If it fails within the warranty period, you should not pay to replace it. Also, since it is a used part from another vehicle your repairing technician will need to program it and the vehicle for all systems to function as designed.

Fuel Consumption Under Scrutiny
Question 5
Recently, I read H.B.’s question about fuel economy. My car’s dash display switches from miles per gallon when moving to gallons per hour when stopped. At a stop, with all accessories off, it is 0.2 gallons per hour and with the air conditioner and most accessories on, it is 0.5 gallons per hour. How about explaining miles per gallon versus gallons per hour? E.L., email

Answer 5
The mpg standard is set by our federal government and some states set their own fuel economy standards. Fuel economy has always been measured in miles per gallon, but your vehicle has one feature that measures how much fuel is consumed per hour when it is parked or at a stop. Both measures relate to how much fuel an engine consumes.
Since the standard measure is miles per gallon when a vehicle is parked or stopped for a traffic light with the engine running it is not traveling any distance. The fuel economy or miles per gallon is zero miles traveled per gallon. And your vehicle demonstrates with accessories on the engine consumes more fuel when stopped. It also consumes more fuel when traveling with accessory loads on the engine and such use reduces miles traveled per gallon or mpg.

Oops! Wrong Fuel
Question 6
I am a clerk at a convenience store gas station. On a particular day, a customer came in stating that his son may have put diesel gas in his car by mistake. He wanted to know if the car could stay until a tow could be arranged. My question is, assuming the kid didn't run the car after filling, what kind of damage could this do to a car and what would the remedy be? Could they get away with syphoning the gas from the tank? A.A., email

Answer 6
This is a dilemma that happens often.
The vehicle will need a tow. If the engine was not started the gas tank should be drained, removed from the vehicle, and thoroughly cleaned. If the engine was started, the entire fuel system will need cleaning. Also, it’s possible in the process the fuel injectors and fuel pump module sustained damage requiring replacement.

Have a healthy and safe motoring day!

Phil Arendt is a columnist, consultant and A.S.E.-Certified Master Technician. 01/03/2022 ® DR. GIZMO © 1989 – Present.

Car trouble, automotive industry, automotive news, new car reviews, car care tips, auto repair shops, auto repair.

07/06/2022

“Dr. Gizmo”
By Phil Arendt

Hindsight Asserts Incomplete Repair
Question 1
Three years ago, I had bad rings replaced on one piston in my 1994 F-450 Super Duty diesel truck at 97,000 miles. Three years and 16,000 miles later the rings on a different piston have gone bad.
Considering the age of the other rings should the mechanic have replaced the rings on all the pistons three years ago? S.G., email

Answer 1
Three years ago this issue likely was caused by a buildup of carbon in the piston rings causing them to seize. When this occurs the affected cylinder consumes excessive oil. Oily smoke billows from the engine exhaust. Replacing all of the piston rings in all cylinders might have been an option presented to you but it appears not. Since the service history suggests there is an issue causing this condition, consider having all the piston rings replaced now. Also, consider addressing the reason for the condition and correct that as well.
It appears the vehicle is driven less than the average mileage per year and it might be used under conditions that contribute to stuck piston rings. Conditions such as mostly short trip drives and prolonged idle periods might be contributing factors for this issue. If so, consider taking the vehicle for highway runs on a regular basis to help reduce carbon deposits. Also, consider using top grade fuel and perhaps regular de-carbon treatments a technician can provide.

Software Might Need Update
Question 2
The media screen in my 2014 Toyota Avalon XLE with a 6-cylinder engine and 36,000 miles on the odometer shows a white screen that says "Please insert correct storage media." almost every time I start the car. When this is screen displayed I have no radio, Bluetooth, or navigation, etc. I have checked with my local Toyota dealer where I have bought five new Toyotas over the years and they have no clue why this happens. Do you have any ideas on how to rectify this issue? K.W., email

Answer 2
It appears your vehicle is being affected by obsolesce. As a vehicle ages, software no longer is current to support any upgrades for electronics such as cellular phones, usb cables, digital drives, flash drives and more. Even if you have not purchased any new devices such as a cell phone that connects to the infotainment system, it is highly likely the firmware and software in a phone has been upgraded regularly. This might result in the issue you are encountering because the software in the radio is not current.
Ask your favorite dealership service department representative if there is an update for your radio. There might be updates but since the vehicle is about seven years old the factory might not produce software upgrade support for your year vehicle. Be this as it may, it won’t hurt to ask. Rebooting the system might be the cure but more than likely software no longer supports current technology.

Optional Air Filter Sparks Curiosity
Question 3
Hello, I have a 2015 Chevrolet Equinox with a 2.4-liter engine I’ve been thinking about switching to a reusable air filter. Would I see any performance gain or change in my gas mileage if I make the switch? Thanks. P.S., email

Answer 3
Claimed gains in fuel economy and horsepower are anecdotal. It’s possible for minor gains but the only way to determine any gain is to test the vehicle in a laboratory before and after changing filter style. Consider that your carmaker has placed a ton of engineering into producing your vehicle to meet government fuel economy requirements, horsepower and emissions. This includes the design of the air filter. If they thought a reusable would be the part that meets all requirements they would have installed it as an original equipment part.
Also, consider a reusable air filter requires servicing on a regular basis using solvent and water to clean the element and oil to end the process. Since oil is applied to the filter element after cleaning, the mass air flow sensor and throttle body in the air induction system will also need cleaning on a regular basis. The oil in the air filter will transfer from the filter element to these parts contaminating these sensors. Not servicing these parts might lead to issues such as prolonged engine starts, rough idle and perhaps failed sensors.
Additionally, consider purchasing two air filters. An air filter should be on the engine any time the engine is running. While a reusable air filter is undergoing service you might need to use the vehicle. After cleaning, it might take a day or two for the air filter to dry. A wet filter cannot be used on the induction system. Have an additional air filter handy to stand duty while the reusable filter is out to dry.

Running Out Of Gas Might Cause Future Trouble
Question 4
A few days ago I ran out of gas. A Good Samaritan brought gas to me so I could get to a gas station. I filled up but since then the car has not been acting right. Sometimes it surges and bucks when accelerating. Is there lasting damage to a vehicle when you drive until it stops because of a lack of gas? G.C., email

Answer 4
I’m sorry to hear you ran out of gas. Thankfully a hero came to your aid. Generally, there isn’t a problem after such an event but sometimes running out of fuel creates a problem.
Sometimes fuel near the bottom the fuel tank is contaminated with dirt, water, alcohol or other materials. When the tank is near empty these contaminates might adhere to filters on the fuel pump that create engine performance issues such as poor acceleration, stalling and hard starts. Sometimes the fuel pump fails because it relies on hydraulic cooling from gasoline in the tank.
At other times a lack of fuel causes fuel injectors to fail. This causes engine misfires, poor engine performance and sometimes stalling or no starts.
Hopefully your car isn’t suffering from these symptoms but if an issue has surfaced consider a trip to your favorite technician to find the cause of the condition.

Difficult Engine Starts
Question 5
After I fill up my 2014 Ford Fusion with about 103,000 miles the engine is difficult to start. I have to crank it several times before it will start. Once it’s running, it’s fine. The only time this happens is after filling the gas tank. There are no warning lights on. Everything seems normal.
Is the fuel pump going bad? What’s wrong? G.G., email

Answer 5
I feel your frustration. Normally an engine starts almost immediately with just a couple of revolutions of the crankshaft. What you experience is not normal.
More than likely there is an issue in the fuel v***r recovery system. Vehicles are prohibited from releasing gasoline fumes into the atmosphere. As a result the v***r recovery system confines the v***r and sends it to the fuel tank and engine where it is burned in the cylinders.
It is highly likely there is an issue with a part called a purge valve. When it falters issues such as you experience might develop. A lasting cure might be to replace it. Explain the issue to your favorite technician. Testing might find this valve is the cause of the condition. Replacement might be a lasting cure.

A/C Fails After Dead Battery
Question 6
Recently, I replaced the dead battery in my 2010 Mercury Milan with a 2.5-liter engine. It has about 104,000 miles. After replacing the battery the air conditioner is blowing hot. When I turn it on it blows cold for a short time but then it blows hot no matter where I set the temperature. I can see the compressor cycling on and off so I’m guessing the trouble is somewhere in the dash.
I have a lot of experience fixing my cars. I’m not afraid to take the dash apart. This car has a manual control system and not automated climate control. What do you think is wrong? Is there anything I can do to fix this or should I go to a shop? P.B., email

Answer 6
While your vehicle doesn’t have automatic climate control there is a control module, sensors and actuator motors in the system that direct and control air flow through the system. The blend doors that control air flow move utilizing motors. It’s not like the old days when cables moved them.
There is something you can try. Remove the cables from the battery. Tape the cable ends together. Wait about 30 minutes. Reconnect the cables to the battery. This resets control modules. Perhaps the HVAC control module scrambled due to low voltage when the battery failed.
If this fails to restore the system it’s time to roll your Mercury to a shop. It’s possible the control module needs reprogramming. Maybe the control module failed. Perhaps a sensor on an actuator motor failed but since the doors seem to move I doubt a motor has failed.
Tests by an experienced technician should find the cause of this issue and a lasting cure.
Have a healthy and safe motoring day!
Phil Arendt is a columnist, consultant and A.S.E.-Certified Master Technician. Readers may send questions to Dr. Gizmo at his e-mail address [email protected]. More information is available at http://drgizmo89.blogspot.com 07/05/2021 ® DR. GIZMO © 1989 – Present.

Car trouble, automotive industry, automotive news, new car reviews, car care tips, auto repair shops, auto repair.

06/18/2022

“Dr. Gizmo”
By Phil Arendt

Push Button Transmission
Question 1
A long time ago cars with automatic transmissions had push buttons. Why did the push button transmission become obsolete? R.L.D., Minn.

Answer 1
This is before I entered the automotive industry but I do recall my parents owned a Chrysler product that was equipped with push buttons to select automatic transmission gear ranges. I played with them. The push buttons were mounted on the dash to the left of the steering wheel. Once I was old enough to drive I purchased a used Rambler. It had push buttons for the transmission as well but new cars at the time no longer were permitted to be equipped with push buttons to select gear ranges. The new models had the all familiar shift lever on the right side of the steering column or a center console shift. These locations and type of shift lever that adorned a vehicle then and now was due to the federal government standardizing vehicle equipment across the nation so drivers would be able to safely switch from one make vehicle to another as primary controls would be similar and familiar in all vehicles.

Shop Unable To Find Cure
Question 2
I own a 2013 Chevrolet Equinox LT with a 2.4 engine and 121,000 miles. Recently, the engine developed an antifreeze leak at the head gasket. My independent shop replaced the timing chain, head gasket and cylinder head. Now there is another problem. The engine runs fine at an idle but as soon as I accelerate it misfires. I have returned to my shop three times for this issue. They say they have checked everything but can’t find the cause of the issue. The only code they get is P0300. They say they checked the compression, valve timing, a bunch of sensors and the fuel pump but everything looks right.
I spent a lot of money on this repair but it’s not running as good as it did before all this work was done. Before I call a lawyer, do you have any suggestions? R.M., email

Answer 2
Don’t call a lawyer yet. Once you do your shop will not agree to do any work on the vehicle. Don’t even mention the word lawyer to them.
As for the cause of the trouble, it’s obvious the shop’s technician is missing something. A condition such as this might be caused by something as simple as excessive alcohol in the fuel tank. The trouble might be caused by a failed catalytic converter. A catalytic converter that’s been subject to antifreeze contamination creates excessive exhaust back pressure resulting in a lack of power and misfires. A dirty mass airflow sensor might cause this. Incorrect or aftermarket spark plugs might be the cause. Even a loose or dirty ground wire connection might be the cause.
Ask your shop to consider these suggestions. If they fail to find the cause of the misfire it’s time to go to another shop for diagnosis and cure. Then, it also might be time to consider the services of a lawyer.

Suggestion Saves A Few Bucks
Question 3
I read your column every week. I’m an older adult and my car is not driven much so naturally the battery often is dead. Recently, you suggested to a reader who was having a similar issue to have a battery saver added to their vehicle. I asked my shop about this. They permanently installed a battery saver. Now my car starts right up after sitting for seven days. Your suggestion has already saved me money. Thank you. G.T., email

Answer 3
Thank you for the thank you. You are welcome. I’m happy installation of a battery maintainer has resolved your dead battery issues and saved you money.
Vehicles not driven much or frequently driven short distances with many stops along the way often develop low battery voltage. This results in failed engine starts and a battery jump or tow.
Installation of a battery maintainer provides a full charge as needed and aids battery longevity. They are simple to use. It’s a matter of plugging it in to household current. The unit is automatic. A maintainer charges the battery when needed by constantly monitoring the state of charge.

Bad Joint Hinders Steering
Question 4
The steering in my 2001 Toyota Tacoma PreRunner is stiff and getting worse. When turning the steering wheel it does not return to center on its own. I have to manually steer it back to center. It has 162,000 miles and a 3.4-liter engine. It feels like it is binding.
I had a shop flush the power steering fluid but this made no difference. Then I raised the front end and disconnected the tie rods to check the ball joints. The wheels move freely left and right. After this I connected a pressure gauge to the power steering. It’s pumping normal pressure and it goes up when I turn the steering wheel.
Do you think the rack needs replacing? G.P.T., email

Answer 4
The rack might not be the cause of the condition. Typically when a rack fails it’s due to excessively worn seals within the unit. This reduces hydraulic power assistance causing a driver to use a more muscle power to steer left and right but not to center the steering wheel. Before jumping into a rack replacement which is a hassle at home, check the condition of the steering column shaft universal joint. On a vehicle with this age and mileage it might be binding causing the condition you experience. If so, replace it.

Time For New Lock
Question 5
Recently, I’m having difficulty turning the ignition key in my 2006 Ford F-150. My truck has a 5.4-liter engine, 4-speed automatic transmission and a little over 230,000 miles.
Sometimes when I attempt to turn the key, the ignition lock won’t turn. If I giggle the key enough the lock turns but it turns hard. Is this a problem with a computer security code? Do I need a new key and computer coding? C.L., email

Answer 5
You won’t need computer coding and neither will your truck. Also, it’s not likely the key is the cause of the trouble. More than likely the issue is an excessively worn lock assembly. If so, a technician needs to pop out the old one and pop in a new one. Easy peasy.

Cold Weather Brings On Stalling
Question 6
Since the really cold weather hit my 2015 Buick Encore with a 1.4-liter engine idles rough and stalls. When it stalls it takes a lot of cranking to get it restarted.
I went to an auto parts store for computer tests. They found code P0171 for a lean condition. The employee suggested a shop for further work. Is this a serious problem? H.C., email

Answer 6
A lean running condition has many possible causes. It’s related to the fuel mixture ratio of gasoline and air the engine requires. With this condition the computer system attempts to enrichen the mixture with more fuel.
The code indicates an issue with bank one. Your car has one bank. V-8 and V-6 engines have two banks.
A lean condition might be caused by an issue in a v***r canister. Sometimes a leaky exhaust manifold causes this condition. A crack in a vacuum line or failed intake manifold gasket might be the cause. Sometimes excessive alcohol or water in the fuel tank is the cause. A fuel pump that does not deliver proper volume or pressure causes the condition. Since below freezing weather might be a contributing factor, a fuel related issue such as water contamination or excessive alcohol content might be the first consideration during a technician’s search for a cause and cure.

Have a healthy and safe motoring day!

Phil Arendt is a columnist, consultant and A.S.E.-Certified Master Technician. Readers may send questions to Dr. Gizmo at his e-mail address [email protected]. More information is available at http://drgizmo89.blogspot.com 02/15/2021 ® DR. GIZMO © 1989 – Present.