Hali Publications

Hali Publications HALI is an international quarterly magazine devoted to antique carpet, textile and Islamic art. www.Twitter.com/HALIMagazine

Around fifty galleries, specialising in artworks and archeology from Africa, Asia, Oceania and America, will gather in S...
29/08/2024

Around fifty galleries, specialising in artworks and archeology from Africa, Asia, Oceania and America, will gather in Saint-Germain-des-Prés in Paris as part of 'Parcours des Mondes'. This popular event, to be held from 10–15 September, has been taking place in central Paris for more than twenty years. Galerie Flak will show this Inuit summer parka constructed from waterproof seal gut. Other regular exhibititors include Galerie Meyer, Joe Loux, Yann Ferrandin, Entwistle, Marguerite de Sabran and Claes Gallery.



A current exhibition in Turin, ‘Tradu/izioni d’Eurasia’ tells the story of the journey of art, culture, traditions and l...
21/08/2024

A current exhibition in Turin, ‘Tradu/izioni d’Eurasia’ tells the story of the journey of art, culture, traditions and language from East Asia to the Mediterranean basin—and back—via a selection of pottery, textiles, metalwork and manuscripts. Showing at MAO Museo d’Arte Orientale until 1 September, an accompanying online booklet contains essays on cintamani, scale motifs, Sogdians and 16th–17th century Caucasian carpets (shown above), among other engaging topics.

The Whitehawk Antique and Ethnographic Art Show begins tomorrow at the Santa Fe Convention Centre. Visitors can encounte...
08/08/2024

The Whitehawk Antique and Ethnographic Art Show begins tomorrow at the Santa Fe Convention Centre. Visitors can encounter thousands of select historic art objects from indigenous cultures around the world from more than ninety-five expert dealers. Admission includes entry to two special exhibitions: ‘Art of Timeless Beauty, the Navajo Child’s Blanket’, previously at Taos Art Museum, NM; and ‘Miniature Native American Baskets – A Lifetime Collection’.



Summer is in full bloom in the northern hemisphere! ☀ The Common Thread feature of our new issue, HALI 220, looks at a s...
31/07/2024

Summer is in full bloom in the northern hemisphere! ☀ The Common Thread feature of our new issue, HALI 220, looks at a selection of textiles that tell tales of long summer days—and the leisurely pursuits and pleasurable pastimes with which historical figures might have filled them.

Shown above is a kalamkari rumal (cover), Deccan, Golconda, 1640–50, . A brief notation records this rumal as entering the inventory of Jaipur’s Amer Palace in November– December 1673. The drawings depict scenes of courtly life and show figures in Indian and Persian dress enjoying themselves among ornate trees, plants and birds, including parrots and peacocks. To the right of the field are musicians and a hunting party; elsewhere, an embroiderer and her companion recline on decorated rumal and bolsters beneath a flowering sapling, while their attendants flick fly swats above their heads. Discover more examples in HALI 220, which you can get via the link in our bio.

Reports from the dealer’s fair and impressive exhibitions at the TIEM, Tophane and Gallery Aydin, part of the recent ICO...
25/07/2024

Reports from the dealer’s fair and impressive exhibitions at the TIEM, Tophane and Gallery Aydin, part of the recent ICOC XV textile conference in Istanbul, feature in HALI 220. Other articles focus on carpets and textiles of note currently on show elsewhere—early Swedish folk textiles in Philadelphia; a display of Safavid carpets at MITA, the new carpet museum in Brescia; textile trompe l’œils in this year’s special exhibition at Abegg-Stiftung; and the history of silk in Japan at SLAM. We examine what could be the earliest-known Indonesian batik and address the difficult question: how old is a Tibetan rug? Plus, we shine a light on several lives in textiles with a privileged insight into the archives of the late Dr Gittinger, highlighted at The Textile Museum, Washington, DC; a profile of a British dealer who celebrates 50 years in the rug trade this year; and a look into the philosophy of collectors. HALI 220 is now available to buy via the link in our bio!

Cover: The Bacri animal carpet, probably Qazvin, central Persia, 1540–1550. Tassara Foundation, MITA Brescia, 178482.2

The top lot at Olympia Auctions’ Indian and Islamic Art sale on 5 June 2024 sold for a spectacular £115,000 hammer price...
25/07/2024

The top lot at Olympia Auctions’ Indian and Islamic Art sale on 5 June 2024 sold for a spectacular £115,000 hammer price (£143,750 including buyer’s premium), against the top estimate of £15,000. With a black çintamani design and a striking turquoise glaze, the large hexagonal Damascus tile from the late Sir Howard Hodgkin collection dates to Ottoman Syria, 1550 –1600 and measures 29 x 26.3 cm. It is not known which building the series of these tiles came from, but examples similar to this, and in another colour scheme of apple green and white, are held in several museum collections.



Welcome back to  , where the focus for the next instalment is on dating rugs. Over the years, HALI has commissioned ongo...
19/07/2024

Welcome back to , where the focus for the next instalment is on dating rugs. Over the years, HALI has commissioned ongoing study towards a new history of the carpet. In 2016, HPL chairman Michael Franses delivered a summary ‘work-in-progress’ census of the oldest-known surviving pile and tapestry-woven carpets to the New England Rug Society. His presentation, which features in an article from HALI 200, included early weavings which may pre-date the iconic ‘Pazyryk’ carpet, commonly believed to be the oldest existing carpet.

Franses begins: 'We will never know where or when carpets were invented, perhaps in different places in different times. The evidence is lost. But we know enough today to warrant a substantial rewriting of the conventional history of the carpet before 800 CE. Literally millions of carpets have been made over the past 5,000 years, and if we were to compare the number that has survived with those that must have been made, it is miniscule.' He goes on to list discoveries by scholars regarding the first evidence of carpet weaving, explaining that Elizabeth Barber told us 'around 7,000 years ago in Mesopotamia sheep were being bred especially for their wool'; and I.N. Khlopin presented 'possible evidence of pile carpets found in Kara Kala in Turkmenistan from 3,000–3,500 years ago'.

The Pazyryk carpet, now in the State Hermitage Museum, St Petersburg, dates to 383-200 BCE and was discovered in a frozen tomb in the Altai region of southern Siberia by the Soviet archaeologist Sergei Rudenko in 1948. Franses describes it as 'an extraordinary work of art, so full of pictorial information that it has been written about numerous times'. Yet the Pazyryk is not the focus of this specific article. Instead, the author explores three early ‘Iranian’ pile, tapestry, and mixed technique weavings that rigorous scientific analysis—including C-14 dating and HPLC-DAD dye testing—suggests may pre-date or parallel the Pazyryk. The full article can be accessed with a digital subscription to HALI.

Dedicated to Mingei—the folk-craft movement developed in 1920 –30s Japan— 'Art Without Heroes: Mingei' features ceramics...
18/07/2024

Dedicated to Mingei—the folk-craft movement developed in 1920 –30s Japan— 'Art Without Heroes: Mingei' features ceramics, woodwork, paper, textiles, photos and film. Its name coined by philosopher and critic Yanagi Sōetsu to mean ‘the art of the people’, Mingei developed in response to rapid industrialisation, in dialogue with the work of William Morris and his contemporaries. The exhibition is showing at the William Morris Gallery in London until 22 September 2024.



A new commission by F**g Ahmed connects neuroscience and art. 🧠🖌'Consciousness in Flux' is showing at Maraya Art Centre,...
16/07/2024

A new commission by F**g Ahmed connects neuroscience and art. 🧠🖌

'Consciousness in Flux' is showing at Maraya Art Centre, Al Qasba, Sharjah, United Arab Emirates until 1 August. Viewers are invited to wear a headset which collects their brainwave data, which is then used to produce patterns as they encounter the woven works.



The Whitehawk Antique Indian and Ethnographic Art Show, which has been a Santa Fe tradition for over 45 years, will take...
11/07/2024

The Whitehawk Antique Indian and Ethnographic Art Show, which has been a Santa Fe tradition for over 45 years, will take place from 9–12 August at the Santa Fe Convention Center.

Bringing together more than 125 of the world’s most knowledgeable experts, visitors will encounter thousands of historic art objects made by Indigenous cultures around the world, presented in vibrant displays. From textiles and pottery to jewellery, basketry, beadwork, woodcarving and more, the show highlights the artistry, imagination and tribal traditions of largely unknown artisans. The event will also feature a special exhibition entitled 'Art of Timeless Beauty, the Navajo Child's Blanket', previously held at the Taos Art Museum, New Mexico, featuring examples of Diné (Navajo) 19th-century child’s blankets. The show explores the evolution of designs, from simple bands and stripes to more elaborate and complex patterns, and the historical context that forced weavers to adapt to a changing world and oppressive conditions.



Celebrating the work of the photographer Antoin Sevruguin (1851–1933), 'Iran: Portrait of a Country' is running at the M...
09/07/2024

Celebrating the work of the photographer Antoin Sevruguin (1851–1933), 'Iran: Portrait of a Country' is running at the Museum Rietberg in Zürich until 4 August. Comprised of sixty-three of Sevrugin's landscapes and typological portraits, it captures his unique perspective of the country that he was adopted into.

Image: Double portrait of two girls, Antoin Sevruguin, Iran, c. 1880-1896, albumen print, 11.8 x 16.8 cm, Museum Rietberg, 2022.428.134, Gift of the heirs of Emil Alpiger © Museum Rietberg, Zurich



Welcome to the final chapter of our exploration of Swedish folk weavings for  , where this week the focus is on a specia...
05/07/2024

Welcome to the final chapter of our exploration of Swedish folk weavings for , where this week the focus is on a special example from the 'Anatomy of an object' feature in HALI 210. It is here that Joel Greifinger delineates the dramatis personae in the story of an unusual initialled and dated bed cover from his collection.

This 235 year old bed cover, mostly woven in rölakan (double-interlocked tapestry) technique, has a very unusual feature. The 'pair of flower arrangements in vases across one of the rows that are executed in flamskväv (dovetail or Flemish tapestry) technique' is described as 'exceedingly rare'.

While at first glance the inscribed date and two sets of initials would lead one to assume that this piece was woven to commemorate a wedding in 1786, Greifinger's careful research in Sweden’s comprehensive digitised historical marriage records led him to an alternative backstory. Using their initials, the author discovered that the bed cover can be ascribed to Ola Hanson and Annicka Hakansdotter, married on 8 November 1761 in a small village in Bräkne härad, Blekinge.

Greifinger concludes: 'There are strong reasons to speculate that Annicka, surely an experienced weaver showing off her skills with a flamskväv flourish, created this bed cover in 1786, perhaps not coincidentally the 25th anniversary of her marriage to Ola. And maybe to provide an example of artistry and industry to her children, Hanna (22), Hakan (19) and Hans (16).' The full article can be accessed with a digital subscription to HALI, which occurs automatically with a normal subscription to the magazine, or which can be bought separately.

Image: Bed cover, woven by Annicka Hakansdotter in the village of Hällaryd, Karlshamn socken (municipality) Bräkne härad (district), Blekinge Province, southern Sweden, inscribed and dated 1786. Joel Greifinger Collection.

If you are a professional buyer of rugs and carpets, register now for COVER Connect New York. The boutique show for lead...
04/07/2024

If you are a professional buyer of rugs and carpets, register now for COVER Connect New York. The boutique show for leading high-end rug brands is returning to Manhattan, 14–16 September 2024. Hosted by HALI's sister publication, COVER magazine, the fourth edition of the show will host forty dynamic companies, displaying outstanding contemporary, transitional and traditional rugs. New exhibitors for 2024 include .valadan, , and . Register now via the link in our bio and you'll be in with a chance of winning two free hotel nights during the show.

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Two-thirds of the sixty objects on display in 'Weaving a Foundation: Cornerstones of the Textile Arts', from the Denver ...
03/07/2024

Two-thirds of the sixty objects on display in 'Weaving a Foundation: Cornerstones of the Textile Arts', from the Denver Art Museum's permanent collection, have never been shown. It chronicles the activities of the Douglas Family of Evergreen, Colorado—steadfast donors of textiles. Frederic (Eric) H. Douglas (1897–1956) became the inaugural curator of Indian Art at the museum in 1929, driven by a deep appreciation for the art and cultures of indigenous peoples. The exhibition is showing until 5 January 2025.



This month for   we are using the HALI Archive to look in detail at Swedish folk weavings. Certain textile techniques un...
28/06/2024

This month for we are using the HALI Archive to look in detail at Swedish folk weavings. Certain textile techniques unique to rural communities in Sweden have a long history, and the best pieces stand comparison with the most celebrated traditional textile art elsewhere in Europe. Yet they remain little known outside their locality. In HALI 213, Gunnar Nilsson let us into their secrets.

Nilsson's article delves into the five textile techniques devised and utilised by the peasantry in Skåne: munkabälte, dukagång, krabbasnår, upphämta and trensaflossa. Authentic surviving examples of these are all over 150 years old, sometimes significantly older. They are virtually unknown outside Sweden, but Nilsson argues they match the more well-known flamskväv and röllakan 'in terms of colour, tradition and sheer magnificence'.

The author establishes dragdukar as 'the most distinctive of all textiles in Skåne' and 'the most prestigious textiles of all for well-to-do peasants seeking to enhance their status'. Covering interior surfaces from the roof almost to the floor, they were 'mostly made in the dukagång technique'. This simple technique uses a limited number of colours, yet 'the effect is mighty and magnificent'.

He continues: 'Munkabälte, dukagång and krabbasnår are often used in combination with röllakan. These three weaving techniques occur in bench covers and carriage cushions, where at least two methods are often used together, and sometimes all three. There are also plenty of weavings where only one technique has been employed. Trensaflossa differs from the other methods because one only finds examples in small formats such as carriage cushions and seat covers. The other four techniques occur in all formats.' The full article can be accessed with a digital subscription to HALI, which occurs automatically with a normal subscription to the magazine, or which can be bought separately.

Image: Carriage cushion in trensaflossa, Skytts häräd, Skåne, Sweden, dated 1801 and signed MMD. Gunnar Nilsson Collection.

After the rise of Islam in the 7th century and its initial spread, the Arabic script took on a very special significance...
26/06/2024

After the rise of Islam in the 7th century and its initial spread, the Arabic script took on a very special significance, becoming a unifying factor–an identity marker–across geography and ethnicity. Since the use of imagery of living beings was not practiced in religious contexts–even in early Islam–beautifully crafted handwriting took on a notable role in Islamic culture.

In the exhibition 'Beyond Words: Calligraphy from the World of Islam', 128 individual works are presented, all of which exemplify the importance and role of calligraphy. The audience is introduced to different types of writing and the different usages from official documents to metal work, ceramics, textiles and architecture presented in the most exclusive exhibition design by the renowned architectural studio Mentze Ottenstein. The exhibition is showing at The David Collection in Copenhagen until 26 January 2025.



The Cleveland Museum of Art is showcasing a selection of altar cloths, clerical vestments and other liturgical textiles ...
25/06/2024

The Cleveland Museum of Art is showcasing a selection of altar cloths, clerical vestments and other liturgical textiles as part of an exhibition entitled 'Liturgical Textiles from Late Medieval Germany', running until 4 August 2024. The great array of exhibits offer insight into how approaches to religious ceremonies evolved throughout the Middle Ages.

Image: Virgin and Child with Four Saints (detail), Germany or Switzerland, Upper Rhine, ca. 1500. Cleveland Museum of Art, 1939.162, Gift of Leonard C. Hanna, Jr.



Welcome back to  , where this month's focus is on Swedish folk weavings. These feature in an article from HALI 202, in w...
21/06/2024

Welcome back to , where this month's focus is on Swedish folk weavings. These feature in an article from HALI 202, in which the curator of the Nordic Museum in Stockholm, Ulla-Karin Warberg, delves into a specific group of these weavings, flamskväv from Skåne. This group of tapestry-weaves show how an urban textile art was imported, adopted, adapted and assimilated by Scanian peasant women into their own rural weaving heritage.

Warberg explains that the flamskväv technique traces its roots to the European late medieval and early Renaissance tapestry-making tradition that emerged in France during the 14th and 15th centuries. The Swedish textile scholar Ernst Fischer showed that references to the textiles are 'first found in the household inventories of the Scandinavian gentry from the 16th century' and that by the end of that century, women had taken over the 'traditionally male profession' of flamskväv weaving. Yet rather than working in workshops, these women 'walked from household to household to weave on the client’s request', which is likely how the technique arrived in rural Skåne.

These textiles came to be 'regarded as capital and treasured in Swedish peasant society' and by the 18th-century flamskväv weaving was an integral feature of the education of young women. Many girls would make these textiles as part of their dowry from age 15, by which point the technique would have been perfected. The author proceeds to delve into the motifs and colours that typically feature in these textiles. The full article can be accessed with a digital subscription to HALI, which occurs automatically with a normal subscription to the magazine, or which can be bought separately.

Underscoring the power of Spanish America and its position as a global crossroads, this show at the Saint Louis Art Muse...
17/06/2024

Underscoring the power of Spanish America and its position as a global crossroads, this show at the Saint Louis Art Museum features more than 100 works from the Los Angeles County Museum of Art’s collection of Spanish colonial art. It opens on 22 June and will run until 1 September 2024. Photo © Museum Associates/LACMA.



The Cleveland Museum of Art’s miniature above, Babur receives b***y and Humayun’s salute after the victory over Sultan I...
13/06/2024

The Cleveland Museum of Art’s miniature above, Babur receives b***y and Humayun’s salute after the victory over Sultan Ibrahim in 1526, from an Akbarnama (Book of Akbar) of Abu’l Fazl (Indian, 1551–1602), ca. 1596–1597 or 1604, features in 'Carpets and Canopies in Mughal India'. This show explores how Mughal carpets created an intimate space where courtly pleasures were enjoyed and is running at The Cleveland Museum of Art until 8 September 2024.



Aponem is holding an auction of 'Chinese Jewellery and Textiles from the Tchen Gi-Vane Collection' at Salle 10 - Hôtel D...
11/06/2024

Aponem is holding an auction of 'Chinese Jewellery and Textiles from the Tchen Gi-Vane Collection' at Salle 10 - Hôtel Drouot , 9, rue Drouot 75009 Paris.

The auction features pieces from the collection of pianist, painter and activist Tchen Gi-Vane (1924–2021). This includes 250 lots of her Chinese silk robes, jewels and kingfisher feather hair ornaments dating from 18th–20th centuries.

Preview of the current exhibition  Gallery Aydin’s new Istanbul Gallery ahead of the Opening Cocktail Reception tonight....
08/06/2024

Preview of the current exhibition Gallery Aydin’s new Istanbul Gallery ahead of the Opening Cocktail Reception tonight.

Hear HALI Editor, Ben Evans talking to gallery owner Adnan Aydin about a few of the highlights in our stories!

This month for  , our focus shifts from rugs to textiles as we begin our exploration of Swedish folk weavings. In HALI 1...
07/06/2024

This month for , our focus shifts from rugs to textiles as we begin our exploration of Swedish folk weavings. In HALI 199 Gunnar Nilsson traces the story of röllakan, the distinctive, multipurpose flatwoven folk textiles that perhaps constitute Sweden’s oldest continuous weaving tradition.

Nilsson begins by explaining that during the 18th century, 'improving conditions and increases in material wealth encouraged a steady increase in the production of textile art', particularly of röllakan. These weft-faced flatwoven textiles are similar to the Norwegian ruteväv and kilims and were 'woven throughout the whole of southern Sweden', with those of the highest quality being produced in Skåne. They date back to the 14th century and are 'likely to have reached Sweden via trade or as war b***y'.

The author goes on to delineate the functions of the variations of this textile: 'Chair cushions, bänkalängder (bench covers) and bed covers created a festive atmosphere. In some farmhouses, people would decorate the ceiling and sometimes also the walls with drättar, narrow woven textiles that could measure 10 metres in length. Carriage cushions were often reserved for the carriage that would take the family to church, but could also be used on benches. The more textiles a family managed to amass through handicraft and passing pieces on from generation to generation, the higher its status.'

The textiles depict a range of motifs. Nilsson explains that 'the greatest geographic reach was achieved by simple geometric motifs consisting of squares forming diagonal zigzags or combined into modest star patterns. These timeless ornaments have their roots in the grid system formed by the warp and weft in weaving.' Other motifs, such as crosses, lilies, double-headed eagles, lions and unicorns, are derived from medieval iconography. The author provides an extensive exploration of these motifs and others in this article which can be accessed with a digital subscription to HALI.

Image: Swedish textile from the collection of Wendel and Diane Swan, currently featuring in an exhibition at the American Swedish Historical Museum, Philadelphia.

The Austrian Society for Textile Art Research (TKF) and the Forum Textil- und Teppichkunst Basel (FTT) are pleased to an...
05/06/2024

The Austrian Society for Textile Art Research (TKF) and the Forum Textil- und Teppichkunst Basel (FTT) are pleased to announce an ICOC Tour: ‘Carpets and Collections of the Swiss Alpine Area’, held 16–22 September 2024. Starting and ending in Zurich, the route takes in the Historical Museum in Bern and AbeggStiftung in Riggisberg, traversing through Gruyeres, Saint Maurice and Sion to Basel before visiting three private collections near Freiburg in Germany. Above is a ‘Lotto’ carpet, Turkey, late 16th-early 17th century, Musée d’histoire du Valais, Sion, MV 12806.

The  starts tomorrow in Istanbul! Participants travelling to the conference via Turkish Airlines flights can enjoy the l...
05/06/2024

The starts tomorrow in Istanbul!

Participants travelling to the conference via Turkish Airlines flights can enjoy the latest documentary produced by Istanbul Carpet Exporters’ Association (IHIB) ‘Anatolian Carpet’ via the inflight entertainment.

Shown here, a detail from an Anatolian kilim, Sivrihisar or Hotamış, 18th-19th century, at TIEM (Türk ve İslam Eserleri Müzesi), where the exhibition ‘Hidden Gems from TIEM Collections’ will open on Saturday evening, 8 June.

Olympia Auctions will hold its 'Islamic, Indian, Himalayan and South-East Asian Art' live and online auction on 5 June a...
27/05/2024

Olympia Auctions will hold its 'Islamic, Indian, Himalayan and South-East Asian Art' live and online auction on 5 June at 11am BST, featuring a collection of tribal rugs belonging to the late Sotheby’s director Michael Bing. One of the items from Bing's collection which will be offered is a 19th-century Shirvan kilim from the east Caucasus, shown above.



The Greater Anatolia Rug and Textile Study Tour visited the  costume galleries this weekend. On show are spectacular Ott...
27/05/2024

The Greater Anatolia Rug and Textile Study Tour visited the costume galleries this weekend. On show are spectacular Ottoman sultans‘ kaftans, including a fabulous fur-lined example belonging to Murad III (1574-1595) and a silk kemha garment belonging to Mehmed III (1595-1603).

In 1595, nineteen of Sultan Murad III’s sons were strangled in an act of fratricide to ensure their brother, or half brother, could succeed his father as Mehmed III. The tragic event led to public outcry and the abolition of the brutal practice - read more about it in Thread of Time, HALI 219.

HALI Editor Ben Evans recently attended the 'Carpet and Textile Forum' in Santa Ynez, which included a 'Show and Tell' f...
23/05/2024

HALI Editor Ben Evans recently attended the 'Carpet and Textile Forum' in Santa Ynez, which included a 'Show and Tell' featuring rare and unique pieces. Shown here is a Yomut Turkmen c-gul carpet presented by Mete Mutlu, Gidon Cohen showing his unique Caucasian carpet of the golden triangle group and David Paly with his helper Thomas Murray presenting a Tsutsugaki Japanese futon cover.

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