27/11/2023
Gulmit
(Part 3: Merciful Peasanthood & Merciless Business)
By Habib Sulemani
I lived in Gulmit from birth to seventhgrade, and can recall things from as early as two years of age!
Before going to school, wherever my father, Ta, went, particularly shops and eateries, I followed him like a puppy.
(And I was a lucky, beloved and keenobserver puppyโthat's why I evolved into a prudent watchdog!)
I won't forget the love of Bech Tolibsher, who'd fed me like his own toddler, as he'd the first eatery in the poststate Gulmit.
(Alas, he died in the Unitedstates of America, and his American children are "reluctant" to visit the Islamic Republic of Pakistan.)
I won't forget the affectionately smiling redface of Pup Sifatsho, who'd shown me his commercial kaleidoscope in free, and had taken no money for the chaiparatha I'd eaten during the thirty-minute-schoolrecess at his eatery.
(He'd started that eatery in the Gulmit Oldhouse, currently one of the two shabby museums that need investment for rebuilding and maintenance!)
I won't forget the two cups of tea Pup Molodod had offered me and Mabobziz in free at his shop-cum-teastall.
I remember the eatery of Pup Maston where Pup Dilnazar and Bech Zambur entertained onlookers while bickering with each other.
The shop of Bech Dod became a Shakespearean theatre when Bech Hukmatnazar and Bech Mumdrim joined the shopkeeper in staging a Wakhi comedy.
The razek of Bech Mlosingov's shop worked as a place for sunbathing while playing ludo and other strategy boardgames in snowy winters when temperature went lower than minus-thirtytwo degrees celsius;
Pup Majnunby, Pup Yosufbig, Pup Qozi, Pup Urfi and Pup Sultonbig were senior members of the famous Goz Ludo Team;
However, when Pup Rustambig, Bech Shabon, Bech Madebdul and Bech Mlosingov played ludo (amidst Pup Rustambig's cry of "cheen"), a dozen people cheerled volunteerly.
I recall how happy Bech Sherali felt when the cheerful Bech Zizdin entered his roadside tailoringshop.
Still I see Bech Synmamad, sitting in his small shop soberly, chainsmoking the K2 brand cigarette and coughing continuously.
(He died long ago but his sweettalking wife, Voch Shower, is still active in her new habitat on Qeer plateau as her Goz house had submerged in the Atabad Lake.)
I can recall the broken backwall of Pup Abdulrayim's shop when burglars had taken away almost everything.
(The shopkeeper was a retired soldier and the
burglars were identified as serving soldiers from the Pakistanarmy Corps of Engineers.)
Bech Lifatsho had handed over his lifelong shop to his son, Ulfatkrim, whom Covid19 untimely sent to grave in 2020.
Now, Bech Lifatsho's classic gulmitik shop is history along the shops of Pup Ghulum, Pup Rustambig, Bech Boshi, Bech Guliston, Bech Tilobig, Bech Afyobig, Bech Dod, Bech Madebdul, Bech Madadsho, Bech Lifbig, Bech Sunlo, Bech Liramat, Pup Lolo, Bech Rizmomad, Mormor Hamid, Pup Jimidlo, Bech Nazarbig, Bech Sraju, Lol Hidarghlom, Lol Hofiz, Bech Dolatnazar, Bech Ghlomziz, Bech Rabkhon, Bech Rafi, Bech Murwat, Bech Sherali Dalgiramic, Bech Mirlo, Ta Silimon and others...
These lost business outlets were small and informal mudstructures which couldn't mature into formal departmentstores, shoppingmalls, pedestrianpromenades and restaurants...
Why did the old commercial enterprises failed, and the existing ones are in danger?
Poetry can't explain this mountaindilemma exactly!
No, not at all.
Even evocative literaryprose would fail to elaborate it!
Nonetheless, when I made a potpourri of journalism, literature and sociology-of-economics, I felt:
The earliest inhabitants were nomadic shepherds, as were most of the Wakhispeaking Gojalis; they started peasanthood after settling down in Gulmit;
The shepherds took a lot of time and made tiresome efforts to change their nomadic mindset as peasantry demanded of them;
But, even after becoming peasants, they couldn't turn their back on shepherdhood, and continued keeping livestock, thus turning into mountain-peasant-shepherds.
(Peasanthood became a parttime job while shepherdhood was treated as the "prophetic" fulltime occupation.)
When formal businesses started in the barterland, some of the peasantshepherds also became shopkeepers, restauranters and hoteliers.
(Still they treated business as a parttime job, and considered peasanthood and shepherdhood their natural occupations!)
After the fall of Hunza State in 1974, doors of employment in public and private sectors opened for people but, even after becoming employees, still they treated peasanthood and shepherdhood their actual employment.
(Sadly, this attitude continues even in this third decade of the twentyfirst century.)
If gulmitiks don't get rid of their irresponsible peasantry mindset and businesses continue falling apart, than what lies ahead?
More poverty and ignorance along glamorous degrees from brotheluniversities!
But, I think, things will improve gradually...
It'll take more time to transform the peasantmindset into businessmindset.
(Sociology will dictate genetics!)
Modern business in Gulmit started with shopkeeping, and a shop is the first door to enter the world called: freemarket economy.
So, shopkeeping is comparatively a new profession in this rural mountainius region where even surviving the four seasons of a year is a great miracle in the current pathetic conditions when people lack even basic facilities of life.
(Humans and nonhumananimals have either no rights, or equalrights!)
The hinterlanders are as simple as are their grown crops and as innocent as are their herds of sheep!
Farming rural people take time to become clever entrepreneurs!
The first shop had been opened by no one else but the last ruler of the erstwhile princelystate;
That governmentrun shop failed in the same way as communism had failed in the erstwhile Sovietunion;
Nevertheless, it laid foundation for freemarket economy in the community of peasants and shepherds who lived by barter.
The salesman of the first publicsector shop had miraculously emerged as the first retailer in the privatesector!
Bech Odina built the first twostoried primitive form of a shoppingmall about half-a-century ago when he emerged as the First Wakhi Millionaire.
His Lakhpati Bungalow had two shops on the groundfloor and a couple of rooms above it;
Alas, instead of turning into a shoppingplaza, this historic woodstone building is now going to kiss the dust!
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November 27, 2023.