01/14/2026
Cake pleated wool coat
⏱ Prep Time
Pattern prep: 1–2 hours
Cutting: 1 hour
Sewing & assembly: 6–10 hours
Resting (pressing & hanging): Overnight
🍽 Serves
One statement coat (mid-thigh to calf length)
🧺 Ingredients
Base Layers
Outer shell (Layer 1):
2.5–3 m medium-to-heavy wool (melton, boiled wool, tweed)
Structure layer (Layer 2):
2–2.5 m wool blend, flannel, or cotton twill
Lining (Layer 3):
2–2.5 m silk, viscose, or Bemberg lining
Filling & Support
Fusible interfacing (medium to heavy)
Horsehair braid or canvas (optional, for hem/body support)
Sleeve head roll or thin batting (optional)
Flavor Enhancers
Matching thread (poly + silk thread for lining)
6–10 buttons or snaps (or belt hardware)
Tailor’s chalk
Press cloth
🧁 Equipment
Sewing machine (walking foot recommended)
Iron with steam
Pleating ruler or cardboard guide
Hand-sewing needles
Pins or fabric clips
🥣 Instructions
Step 1: Prepare the Batter (Pattern)
Draft or select a simple A-line or straight coat base.
Plan pleats:
Box pleats (structured, classic)
Knife pleats (flowy, modern)
Add extra width to panels where pleats will sit (1.5–2× fabric width).
Step 2: Mix the Layers
Cut all three layers separately.
Interface:
Front panels
Collar
Cuffs
Mark pleat lines clearly on outer shell only.
Step 3: Fold the Pleats (Key Decoration)
Press pleats carefully, using steam and a press cloth.
Baste pleats in place at waist and hem.
Lightly tack pleats at top only—let them open below.
Step 4: Bake the Outer Cake
Assemble outer shell:
Sew pleated panels
Attach collar
Insert sleeves
Press seams open as you go (this is your “don’t overmix” rule).
Step 5: Add the Filling (Structure Layer)
Assemble the inner structure like a second coat.
Attach it to the outer shell at:
Neckline
Armholes
Front edges
Step 6: Ice the Cake (Lining)
Sew lining separately.
Bag the lining:
Attach at neckline and front edges
Leave a turning opening
Turn, press, and hand-close opening.
Step 7: Final Decoration
Hand-sew hems invisibly
Add buttons, belt, or snaps
Steam pleats one last time and let the coat hang overnight
⭐ Chef’s Tips
Wool loves steam—press, don’t iron flat.
If pleats collapse, add a hidden stay stitch at hip level.
For drama: contrast lining color = surprise “cake filling.”