Ozarks Alive

11/20/2024

Thank you to everyone who came out to the talk I gave last night about Ozarks burial customs/history. It was a very fun evening for me, and I hope for the folks who attended.

We covered a lot of ground in the talk, from "pre-professional funerals" that were community-based to the more modern times; rural cemeteries, unique tombstones, superstitions, traditions and more.

Of those topics, one I thought I'd share here: Angel crowns, which are also known as feather wreaths. Any of you out there heard of these, or seen one?

In years gone by, these tightly-coiled, crown-like ball of feathers were a good sign when found in the pillow of someone who had died: It meant they went to heaven.

"The idea is that when a very good and saintly person is dying, the feathers in the pillow form themselves into a crown, a kind of symbol of the golden crown which the dying person is soon to wear in Heaven," wrote Vance Randolph in his book, "Ozark Magic and Folklore." Variations of this tale are heard in many places, over the whole length and breadth of the Ozark country."

The photo here shows a feather crown that is on display (at least as a few weeks ago) at the Carroll County Historical and Genealogical Society's museum in Berryville.

11/19/2024

This photo captures a moment decades in the making.

Yesterday was meeting day at the Chadwick Friendship Club, a group of ladies who began gathering in the 1950s and have been going ever since. Some of you have heard me share of the club before; I joined after I began quilting with them last year.

During our monthly meeting yesterday, we brought cards for one of the members who is celebrating a milestone birthday: Huba Rozell, who served as Chadwick’s postmistress for many years and turns 90 this month.

It’s always special to celebrate someone’s life milestone, but this scene struck me for another reason, too.

In addition to those decades of life, it represents deep ties of friendship and shared memories. Because sitting next to her is Marie Day, a former Chadwick teacher and community leader.

For much of their lives, these ladies have been friends. I believe they joined the club in the early 1950s after they got married, and served the community in different ways.

So many decades since, they’re still friends, and have a repository of shared memories that few of us are privileged to have to this depth – especially as our connections with rural communities change. People move away and those “legacy” recollections of people and times aren’t the same.

But here’s an example where those decades of shared memories — of local life and another world in Ozarks history — remain. It seemed special to share with you all today.

Happy (early) birthday, Huba!

11/18/2024

I’m wrapping up research for tomorrow’s talk on Ozarks burial customs (you’re invited to attend – it’s free and open to the public, and more info is below) which recently took me deep into our region’s rural confines to visit a grave house.

I stumbled across this monument a few months ago when I was out wandering. It was a true “wander,” if the word can be used in that way, as this cemetery was found off a county road, onto a gravel path and beyond not one or two but four creek crossings.

There, I found this pastoral scene – and saw what I suspected to be a grave house. In years gone by, these structures, constructed of wood or other materials, were sometimes built above graves.

I’ve seen other stacked stone graves, false crypts, and comb markers in the area, but this is the only grave house that I’ve yet found in the Missouri Ozarks so far. Best I can tell, it’s from 1871, but I suspect the roof has been repaired/replaced in the years since.

That said, I wasn’t completely sure it was a grave house, as I’ve only previously read about them in books. I sent a picture of it to Abby Burnett, author of “Gone to the Grave,” and one of the region’s experts on burial and funeral traditions. She says that it does appear to fall into that category.

That recently led me back to the small cemetery. It had been quite some time since I was there, and even though the grave house had survived between the 1870s and my previous visit, I wanted to take a closer look at how it appeared now.

Thankfully, it looked as I remembered it, and from the crunchy gravel, eagle sightings and river crossings, the drive was just as peaceful as I recalled, too.

As I stood on the grassy hillside, I was again struck by the magnitude of these places. Their significance is multifaceted: Through the history that was carried over to aid their presence, the fact that they’ve lasted so long, and that they offer a physical tie from one generation to the next is impactful.

If you’d like to hear me share more of these funeral and burial traditions, please attend the presentation I’m giving tomorrow (Tuesday) at Kentwood Hall in Springfield. It’s free and open to the public, and begins at 7 p.m. It stems from “Buried History,” an oral history project I did in connection with Missouri State University Libraries to document changing funeral traditions in the Ozarks. A link to that oral history series is in the comments.

11/18/2024

We've had some beautiful November days this week. I captured this image a couple of nights ago along Highway 160 between Everton and Springfield.

It was one of those moments when you could feel change. Where, for a few seconds, you could be part of both day and night.

Those contrasts also make me think about how I appreciate these temperate fall days.

Would we be as grateful for these mild, sunny days if we didn't expect them in November? Maybe, maybe not. But being grateful feels good to me, so I'm glad either way.

11/15/2024

Some life-and-pie notes from this week, shared through Recipe #85 in the Ozarks Pie Project: Toasted Coconut Pie, which I found in a loved-and-coverless cookbook from Harrison, Arkansas.

One of the things that I appreciate about the recipe is its simplicity. I had all of the ingredients on hand; it came together in about 10 minutes before baking. Not everything in life has to be complicated to be enjoyed or savored...

I'm also thinking about life through pie crust.

I occasionally get asked about crust — specifically, how to make it.

By now, this part of the pie-making process has become a built-in element of my week. It's typically on Sunday afternoon when I make my batch of crust, which gives me enough for three "regular" sized pies and some extra.

I've tried a number of crust recipes so far over the course of the Ozarks Pie Project; most are a mixture of water (cold, cold, cold), flour, salt, vinegar and butter/shortening/lard.

Not once, in more than 85 pies, has my crust held together in one sheet like it "should." Whatever the reasons, I always end up patching it in the plate.

I chalk it up to the gluten-free flour I have to use for my crusts, but I don't really know why for sure — and, at this point, it doesn't bother me.

It does reminds that we set standards for ourselves sometimes that really don't matter. No one is ever going to care if pie crust is patched as long as it tastes good. Maybe there's a life lesson in there to adjust our expectations for ourselves when things truly don't matter to anyone else. 🙂

Also, you know that "extra" crust I mentioned? Sometimes I use it to make tiny pies in grandma's ramekins. It's like a little surprise you can share with someone else, or to treat yourself. (Both things, I think, add value and joy — both during this season, and all year long).

Here's to a great weekend, everyone!

11/15/2024

I first “met” Mary Toney a few years ago when I began reading her writings. Although we never said hello in person, I felt like I knew her through the sweet slice-of-life notes she publishes on Facebook – and which, at times, focus on her doings at the restaurant she runs in Liberal, Missouri: Mary's Flower Cart Cafe.

I finally got the chance to visit the cafe today, and I was struck by the homey atmosphere as soon as I walked in the door. It began in 2004, and is housed in what was once the town’s former drug store. The distinctive flower-tiled floor remains from those days, although Mary also formerly ran a flower shop, so the design was fitting.

It’s what you’d picture a small-town cafe to be.

There was a full house after I walked through that door – a local men’s group had come in to have lunch together. But a (distinctively vintage) table was free, and it’s where I enjoyed a burger and a cup of coffee from a (distinctively vintage) mug. Soon, I got the chance to visit with Mary herself.

I learned she’s spent most of her life in Liberal, a town near the Kansas-Missouri line with a main drag that reminds of the past with a mix of businesses, empty storefronts and ornate facades.

While her flower shop is part of that history, today Mary runs the cafe as well as a bed and breakfast. I got the sense from reading those writings that she cares about others; that belief was affirmed when I heard her take another customer’s order with the question, “What would make your day better?”

Mary says she thought she might leave Liberal in years gone by, but not anymore – “this is where I’m planted,” she says after settling into a chair at the cheery-yellow table where I sat.

In addition to the cafe, which satisfies hunger in the early hours of the day, Mary also hosts classes – for noodles, and pie and more – that draw participants from throughout the surrounding area.

“I just love the people,” she says.

11/14/2024

Johnson's Shut-Ins showcases the rugged beauty of nature. Even though it's difficult to tell, each one of these images includes people -- and the contrast reminds of how small we as humans are in the grand scheme of things.

I took these photos a couple of weeks ago on my way through Reynolds County. While the shut-ins are a popular destination during summer months for swimming, they're also a beautiful place to simply stop and see.

11/11/2024

This Veterans Day, I’m remembering Bruce Benson. I met Mr. Benson in 2019, when I wrote about his near-nightly tradition: Playing Taps in downtown Webb City.

The World War II vet and his late wife, Jane, met at Camp Crowder; he played a trumpet in the band. After nearly 70 years of marriage, she died in 2014 -- and the then 94-year-old began the tradition. “That’s one of the reasons I do this,” he said of the couple’s shared patriotism. He joined her in 2020.

Thank you all who have served our country!

Bruce Benson plays in downtown Webb City nearly every evening.

11/10/2024

If you’re in northwest Arkansas and like seeing a window into the past, a stop to consider is the Carroll County Historical and Genealogical Society in Berryville. I was there last week to visit its “funeral room” — I’m getting ready to give a free talk about local funeral and burial customs on Nov. 19 — but had to remind myself of the other exhibits that fill the sprawling former courthouse. There are displays for quilts, and education and farming and more.

While those displays are interesting, one of the points that I find especially compelling is the building itself, which served as a Carroll County courthouse for about a century.

The three-story, red-brick building was built in the 1880s and served in government function through 1976.

While its rooms are now filled with those exhibits, it’s easy to envision its place as a courthouse — especially in the old-fashioned courtroom, which you can still see on the third level.

A random fact to note while we’re on the subject of Carroll County: It’s actually a place that has two seats of government.

One is in Berryville, and the other is in Eureka Springs. This was approved in the 1880s, as Eureka Springs was growing rapidly and travel between the two towns could be difficult due to frequent flooding of the King’s River.

"The Berryville Courthouse remained, and Carroll County became one of several Arkansas counties with two seats of government,” noted the courthouse’s application to the National Register of Historic Places, to which it was added in 1976.

11/08/2024

Today included a stop at a Blue Spring — one of two by that name in Ozark National Scenic Riverways. This one is off Highway 60 near Mountain View. It’s a “quick” trip off the highway — four miles, but it takes a bit more time given that the road turns to gravel.

I’ve been here before and wanted to stop for a nature break on my way home from eastern Missouri. It’s part of an area that has experienced flood damage in recent days, and you could see the impact of water here, too.

It led my eye to textures: The trees, the dune-like bank, the vibrant move and hue of the water. In many situations, there are so many seemingly small — yet distinctive — ways to find beauty all around us.

11/08/2024

It was a beautiful evening near Patterson (in Wayne County) tonight…

11/07/2024

I found a store full of kindness in Winona, a small town in Shannon County.

I’d seen signs for Helping Hands Thrift Store before, and I may have even stopped in at one point. Today, however, I had a chance to absorb the store and wonder about its story when I walked inside.

Turns out, this store on Winona’s square exists solely to help the community. It began more than 10 years ago, and today its sales go to help with locals’ basic needs.

It helps with things like electric bills, for example, or when gas money is needed to get to a doctor — quite a drive for some given the rural location. They may contribute when there’s a local funeral.

“There’s not a month that goes by we don’t pay somebody’s electric bill,” says Nancy Lindsay, who has long been involved with the store.

The work is led by Ruby Craig, who took over as the shop’s manager 10 years ago. She and Nancy are friends — but also relations by marriage, as their late husbands were cousins.

“I just said yes,” says Ruby of taking on responsibility for the store. “And I’m glad I did because we help a lot of people.”

Walking into the historical building — which has served as a grocery, pool hall, lodge, dress shop and more at various times — one sees items you might expect at a thrift shop.

There are racks of clothing, books, costume jewelry and some home decor and storage units out back with items that the store isn’t large enough to hold. There are some unexpected items too, like canned jams, pickles, relish and candies that Nancy makes and sells at the store.

And those small purchases add up. Last year, it had around $56,000 in sales. That feels like a significant amount in a rural area and a store that’s open only three days a week. How Ruby sees the success: “It’s the Lord.”

And while it’s about faith and financial support, there’s more to it than that. There's love seen through the time it takes to run the store. The workers are either volunteers or paid very minimally.

“I just enjoy working and helping people. I like to talk to people about the Lord,” says Ruby. “My husband passed away in 2008 and I have no one at home. I’ve always been a worker and always enjoyed doing.”

I know there are many people throughout the Ozarks making a difference, but this story made me smile today. I hope it did for you, too.

11/05/2024

Nov. 5, 2024 isn't a normal day. Far in advance, we knew its calling as Election Day. But in the last few hours, it's also evolved into a time of stress as parts of the Ozarks are experiencing severe flooding.

I just want to take this opportunity to say that I hope you are well and safe today. That I'm sorry for the stresses many of us are facing. And that, despite the differences in our world, I care about you, and I hope that we can find it in ourselves to remember that there can be a brighter tomorrow.

But the latter is not solely based on an election's outcome. It's up to us and our conscious effort to look beyond our own thoughts and beliefs and find common ground with our neighbors.

11/03/2024

An Ozarks tradition is back: After a hiatus of several years, the McDowell Gold Jubilee has again opened its doors!

I'm very happy to share this news, as McDowell is a special place. The gathering was shut down by the COVID-19 pandemic, and never really restarted -- until a few weeks ago, when locals decided they wanted to bring it back.

The show is special for a number of reasons. It's a pretty remote place, and the show is held in a former one-room school. Instead of a jam, folks come and play on a stage. It's all for free -- and, as far as I know, it's one of the oldest of these types of gatherings in the area.

If you want to check out a show (which generally are held on alternating Saturday nights) visit the Jubilee's page for additional information.

The McDowell Gold Jubilee is back after a several-year-long hiatus. It’s come home thanks to the wishes of locals who chose to revive the long-running Ozarks volunteer music show.

11/02/2024

The little white Eagle Rock Branch Library — located on the Missouri side of the state line — has caught my attention on trips to Arkansas. It stuck out to be because of its rural location and because I wondered if it was once a school. However, I hadn’t been able to visit until yesterday — when I came away with a mystery. (Stay tuned…)

My first question and hypothesis turned out to be true. It once was a rural school, and later became a private library before joining the Barry-Lawrence Regional Library system. It’s also still connected with the Eagle Rock community, which operates a gathering center on-site. I learned those things from Jennifer Cochran, the library branch manager, who also told me about the mystery.

It wasn’t found in any book. It was in a picture frame I saw hanging on the wall: A composite image of servicemen from Kentucky in 1942.

I asked Jennifer if it had a local connection. Turns out, we don’t know — but maybe.

She was volunteering at a local thrift store when it came in with some donations one day.

“They were going to throw it away and I just couldn’t let that happen,” she told me of the photo.

Instead, she took it to the library where it now hangs on the wall.

“Obviously their family has to live around here,” Jennifer told me. “Maybe someday their family will come in and be able to tell us more about it.”

So, Facebook folks, any chance you recognize someone from the Ozarks in this picture? It can be seen in person at the Eagle Rock library, located close to the Missouri-Arkansas state line.

11/02/2024

Good morning, everyone! I’m tucked away in northwest Arkansas today. Agenda: first, coffee and writing in Eureka Springs at one of my favorite “offices” before heading over to Berryville for some research work. The color is fading but it’s still beautiful — even in unconventional ways, like through fallen leaves. Watch for stories soon — including a neat moment I had at a library on the way down…

11/01/2024

Absentee voting in Springfield has conjured up long lines and wait times, giving an opportunity to reflect and chat with one’s neighbors as we inch up to the door.

In our politically fractured world, it’s an odd place – both literally and figuratively – to be. As I stood in line yesterday, my neighbor said something to the effect that she’d be glad to get this over with so she could forget about the election.

Even though I didn’t catch her name, I understood what she meant. That once the election is over, we’ll be done with the commercials and the billboards and the constant pull for attention.

Yet nothing really is done after Nov. 5.

That day, work must begin: We must remember our fellow Americans. Folks who, despite differences in belief, felt as strongly as us on key issues that were important to them. And that they acted as they felt was best. And that they’re still here: They didn’t disappear.

The fact that we don’t agree is where the hard work lies. How do we move forward?

It’s not the first time we’ve faced hard work, nor will it probably be the last. Many issues that have divided the country aren’t simple. There is little room for compromise. And there’s the reality that we’ve spent years of our lives feeling that things are growing more “us” versus “them.”

Yet we must build bridges. Those words are easy to say. They’re harder to do. But I don’t see any alternative.

You may wonder why I’m sharing this here: This space is about the Ozarks, not politics. But these are very real issues we face right here in the Ozarks. Its beautiful hills and foliage have not created a utopian barrier that frees us from conflict, as much as we’d like to believe that they do.

The only thing I can go back to are those personal connections. I believe relationships – if both sides are willing to listen and try to understand – can help open hearts.

I implore us to listen as well as we can. Not only the TV or a YouTube celebrity or even me, but your neighbor. Or someone who is intentionally different from you. Help them feel heard. Don’t assume we know all there is to know about a topic. Let's not look for reasons to be angry and live in an echo chamber. Seek moments that help make us better informed in real-life ways.

We don’t have to necessarily agree with what someone is doing. But judging is not up to us. What’s up to us is to understand – and be kind as we find a way forward.

***

This was the intro column I wrote for this month’s Ozarks Alive email newsletter, which went out this morning. I hoped you wouldn’t mind if I shared it here too.

10/31/2024

For about a decade, Chadwick’s booster club has sponsored an annual squirrel hunt to raise money for the small rural district’s athletic programs. I got to attend this year’s event, which was on Oct. 19.

Squirrel hunting is a tradition for many in the Ozarks, and the animals can be used as a source of meat. I’m glad I got to spend the day at the school and see the judging process, which brought community together.

Chadwick’s annual school squirrel hunt draws families and friends to compete for bragging rights and prizes, and raises money for the school’s booster club.