09/27/2024
We have heard a lot about immigrants eating pets from some political types. I think it’s time to dig a little deeper into this longtime practice of food shaming and the use of culinary tropes as cultural warfare.
It begins with stereotypes which identify foods or drinks benignly associated with ethnic or cultural group and culinary styles. Beans & Rice, Fried Chicken, Haggis, Watermelon, Tacos, Pasta, Bagels, Borscht… all innocent enough, right? Everybody likes something ethnic.
Sometimes it includes unusual exotic foods enjoyed by one culture or religious groups but disdained by a rival group. Snake, offal, horse meat, wild game, insects, grubs, bushmeat, and exotic menu items are all fodder. It’s even found in the Bible: see Leviticus 11:13-19
These move into our social discourse as stereotypes and occasionally humor, often with seemingly harmless connotations. But then, they quickly become symbolic code for more sinister association and degrade or dehumanize a racial, ethnic, cultural or rival group. They also move thru culture as urban myth, like conspiracy theories, without factual validation. They become more and more associated with negative stereotypes.
You and I can all think of food and drink options which are associated with negative and racist stereotypes. Rather that list them, just ask yourself about how these things are used in our social discourse. On a benign level, they often begin as harmless cultural assimilation and expansion of our culinary appreciation but on the sinister side, they become pure and unadulterated opportunities for racist signaling and perpetuation of social divisions and negative stereotypes.
Historically, purges, persecutions, ethnic cleansing, cultural and national divisions as well as holocausts have involved the use of food tropes, culinary conspiracy theories and dietary signaling as weapons. Food has also been used as torture by oppressors.
It’s a part of our language. When you are humiliated you can “Eat Crow”. “Humble Pie” included crow and carrion. When you are defeated you “eat sh*t”. When something isn’t right, it’s “not Kosher”. One cures your hangover with “the hair of the dog that bit you.” COVID was spread by “eating bats.” Vampires drank blood. Suspicious things “smell fishy”. Taste and smell are often include in our criticism just as “something’s rotten in Denmark”. Ethnic groups are referred to by foods: “herring snappers”, “taco blenders”, “beaners”. Sexual and gender stereotypes are also common. Body parts often have culinary slang names.
All of this degrades, defames, dehumanizes, dismisses and disrespects our fellow human beings.
It’s important because food is the most basic of all human needs. Starvation is the most powerful human fear. It is the center and driver of almost all human commerce and economic life and the heart of social and family interaction. It is often a central part of deeply held religious belief
In the hands and mouths of evil and dangerous people it’s not really funny or silly. It’s a powerful and deadly weapon.