10/29/2024
Passing through Istanbul on our way to Ghana, we decided to linger a couple of days, just enough time to breathe in a bit of the city’s magic. The last time I was here? August 1976—a seminal point in my life. I’d set out for the Pudding Shop back then, a place known in the ’60s and ’70s as the unofficial HQ for wanderers on the Hippie Trail, the go-to spot if you needed info about getting to Goa, Kathmandu, or anywhere else along the route. This was where you found your way.
At the Pudding Shop, on a whim, I’d signed up to drive the Magic Bus—not Ken Kesey’s wild ride, but a bus bound for Kathmandu with 55 travelers who shared that same spark for discovery. It’s a journey that marked me, one where we crossed Iran, Afghanistan, Pakistan, India, finally reaching Nepal. Honestly, I felt like a kid in Disneyland on that trip, swept away by the landscapes, people, and endless possibilities.
So, landing back in Istanbul, I found out the Pudding Shop still exists. After taking in the sights of the Blue Mosque and Hagia Sophia, we headed across the street to revisit this icon of my past. It’s been updated, now a self-service restaurant, but it still has the original bulletin board and a wall packed with articles and photos—a gallery of its rich, storied past.
The manager, seeing my curiosity, came over. I asked if he’d been the owner back in ’76. He laughed, saying he was only four years old then. (I’m awful at guessing ages.) He led me to a table at the back, mentioning it was still the spot. And then he introduced me to Kerim Kuvetli.
We dove into memories of the Hippie Trail. I’d never quite thought of myself as part of that scene, more like a kid stepping into Disneyland for the first time. But talking with Kerim brought back all those memories, the roads taken and the wild landscapes crossed.
Kerim handed me a copy of his book, Pudding Shop. It’s in Turkish, but the photos tell the story loud and clear. I promised myself I’d swing by on my way back home to chat with him some more.
Pudding Shop photos by Jacqueline Janssen.