https://www.facebook.com/109793508818370/

Driver Arya, New York, NY (2024)

12/15/2024

The engine shakes violently, free solution!

12/15/2024

The car keys are locked in the car, free solution!

12/15/2024

Free phone holder!

12/14/2024

📌 What is a Drum Brake? Parts, Working, and Key Advantages Explained:

A drum brake is a braking system commonly used in vehicles. It consists of a drum-shaped housing that rotates with the wheel. When the brakes are applied, brake shoes press against the inner surface of the drum to create friction, slowing or stopping the vehicle.

Parts of a Drum Brake:

1. Brake Drum: The rotating component attached to the wheel.
2. Brake Shoes: Curved friction material that presses against the drum.
3. Wheel Cylinder: Hydraulic cylinder that pushes the brake shoes outward.
4. Return Springs: Pull the brake shoes back after braking.
5. Backing Plate: Supports the brake components and absorbs braking forces.
6. Adjuster Mechanism: Maintains the correct distance between the brake shoes and drum.

Working Principle:

When the brake pedal is pressed, hydraulic fluid flows into the wheel cylinder, pushing the brake shoes outward against the rotating drum. This friction slows the drum and, consequently, the wheel. Once the pedal is released, the return springs retract the shoes to their original position.

Advantages:

1. Cost-effective: Less expensive to manufacture and maintain.
2. Durable: Resistant to wear and tear in heavy braking.
3. Self-energizing: Requires less pedal force due to the shoe-drum interaction.

With greetings from the Driver Arya team

12/14/2024

⚙️ How to turn off the "Check Engine" screen on the dashboard in 3 steps 🤔

1- Open your hood.
Once the battery is located, remove the passive cable using a switch (casing or jack). The passive cable is usually covered and not the hood on which one marker is embossed lower.

2- Emptying condensate.
Blow the horn for 30 seconds or turn on your headlights, draining the remaining electricity. Neither the horn nor the headlights will work because the electricity is not connected but it will discharge the rest of the electricity into the condensate

3- Wait 15 minutes.
Leaving the battery separate for 15 minutes will allow your car's system to reset it when you reconnect it. Reconnect the passive cable on the thigh and put the hood back in place (if there is one). Since you disconnected the battery, the error codes were cleared and the engine light was turned off.

12/14/2024

Step-by-Step Guide: How to Bleed Your Car’s Brake Lines
Bleeding your brakes keeps your system efficient and safe. Here’s how to do it yourself:

1. Lift the Car: Use a jack to raise your car. This ensures easy access to the bleeder screws.

2. Add a Brake Pedal Spacer: Place a piece of lumber (1x4 inches) under the brake pedal. It stops the pedal from sinking too far when bleeding the brakes.

3. Attach a Tube to the Bleeder Bolt: Connect a clear plastic tube (like aquarium tubing) to the bleeder bolt of the wheel farthest from the brake fluid reservoir.

4. Submerge the Tube in Brake Fluid: Place the other end of the tube into a jar with 2–3 inches of clean brake fluid.

5. Press the Brake Pedal: Ask a helper to press and hold the brake pedal. Once they’ve pressed it, they should say “down.”

6. Loosen the Bleeder Bolt: Turn the bolt a quarter turn to the left. Air and old fluid will flow through the tube into the jar.

7. Close the Bolt and Release the Pedal: Tighten the bolt, then ask your helper to release the pedal and call out “up.”

8. Repeat Until Clear Fluid Flows: Keep cycling through the process until fresh, clear brake fluid comes through the tube.

Check and refill the master cylinder reservoir with fresh fluid every 5–6 cycles.

9. Move to the Next Wheel: Repeat the process on all four wheels, working from the furthest to the closest to the reservoir.

Bleeding your brakes may take some patience, but it’s essential for safety. Clear, responsive brakes are worth the effort!

With greetings from the Driver Arya team

12/14/2024

Car Power Window Troubleshooting:-
Common Issues and Solutions:-
Here are some common problems you might encounter with your car's power windows and potential solutions:-
1. Window Won't Go Up or Down
- Check the fuse: -Ensure the fuse that powers the window motor is intact. Consults your car's manuals for the location and rating of the fuse.
- Inspect the motor:- If the fuse is okay, the motor might be faulty. A qualified mechanic can diagnose and replace it if necessary.
- Examine the regulator: -The window regulator is the mechanism that raises and lowers the window. Look for broken cables, bent tracks, or other damages. Replacing the regulators is often required.
- Check the switch: -A faulty window switch can prevent the window from moving. Try using the switch from the other side of the car to see if it works.

2. Window Goes Down but Won't Go Up:-
- Check the cable: -The cable that connects the motor to the window might be broken or stretched. Inspect it for damage and replace it if needed.
- Inspect the regulator:- A faulty regulator can cause the window to go down but not up. Look for broken parts or worn-out components.

3. Window Goes Up or Down Slowly:-
- Check the motor: A weak or damaged motor can cause slow window operation. Replace it if necessary.
- Inspect the regulator:- A faulty regulator can also lead to slow window movement. Look for worn-out parts or binding issues.

4. Window Makes Noise
- Check the regulator: -A noisy window often indicates a problem with the regulator. Inspect it for damaged parts or binding issues.
- Lubricate the tracks:- If the tracks are dry, apply a silicone-based lubricant to reduce friction and noise.

Additional Tips:
- Avoid forcing the window: _If the window is stuck or difficult to move, don't force it. This can damage the mechanism.
- Check for obstructions: -Ensure there are no objects blocking the window or its tracks.
- Consult a mechanic: -If you're unable to diagnose or fix the problem yourself, it's best to consult a qualified mechanic.

With greetings from the team

12/12/2024

The engine shakes violently, free solution!

12/12/2024

📌 Inside the Heart of Your Engine: Inspecting and Disassembling the Block:

1. Get the shop manual for your vehicle. No overview could offer all the specifics necessary to rebuild every kind of engine, making it essential that you refer to the manufacturer's instructions for every make and model.

2. Perform a visual inspection of the engine. Inspect fluid sweeping out of the many plugs, sending unit connections, and joints between components.

3. Inspect the external components of the engine. Inspect the distributor for signs of looseness by putting some pressure on it.

4. Remove the exhaust manifold if it was not removed earlier to facilitate removing the engine from the engine compartment.

5. Begin disassembling the rest of the engine. Start by removing the oil pan and the valve covers, then the cylinder heads.

6. Check the cylinder bores. You may want to use a micrometer to determine the bore diameter, very worn cylinders may be too far gone to allow a successful rebuild.

7. Remove the ridge on the cylinders near the top of the bore with a cylinder reamer (rimmer). The ridge is the point where the metal of the cylinder did not wear because the rings do not rise that high in the bore.

8. Remove piston and rod assemblies. After removing the rod caps from the rods, place rod journal protectors (protective covers) on the rod ends and protect bolts to prevent them from striking, scraping, and scoring the engine block or from bolt threads being damaged during removal and handling.

9. Remove and inspect the crankshaft. Once removed store in a safe place, preferably using crank mounting plates so that you can accurately measure the crankshaft.

10. Perform a visual inspection of the crankshaft. Inspect for cracks and any signs of overheating. Measure different crankshaft dimensions.

11. Finish disassembly. Remove the core plugs, brackets, guide pins, and everything else still attached to the outside of the engine block.

12. Measure the specs. It's probably best to have this done at the machine shop, but if you've got the necessary tools yourself, you can use a straight edge and a set of feeler gauges to check the deck surface for flatness.

Follow us Driver Arya for more interesting topics.

゚

12/11/2024

**Steps to Detect a Power Leak and Avoid Battery Discharge Problems:*

1. **Vehicle Preparation**: Turn off the engine, remove the keys and lock the doors. Disconnect additional electronic devices.

2. **Set up the Multimeter**: Adjust the multimeter to DC (DC) and select the highest ampere scale to avoid damage.

3. **Disconnect Negative Battery Cable**: Use a key to disconnect the negative cable (commonly black ) from the battery, ensuring it does not touch any part of the vehicle.

4. **Connect the Multimeter**: Connect the negative tip black of the multimeter to the negative battery bore and the positive tip (red) to the disconnected negative cable.

5. **Read the multimeter**: If the multimeter shows current, there is a leak. A normal leak should be less than 50 milliampires. If it's older, a leak has been identified.

6. **Identify Problem Circuit**: Check fuses one by one until the multimeter reading goes down, indicating the circuit with leak.

7. **Troubleshoot**: Inspect components of the affected circuit, verify for damage or loose connections, and repair or replace defective parts.

Detecting and fixing a power leak prevents battery discharging and ensures proper functioning of the vehicle's electrical system.
゚

12/11/2024

Step-by-Step Guide: How to Bleed Your Car’s Brake Lines
Bleeding your brakes keeps your system efficient and safe. Here’s how to do it yourself:

1. Lift the Car: Use a jack to raise your car. This ensures easy access to the bleeder screws.

2. Add a Brake Pedal Spacer: Place a piece of lumber (1x4 inches) under the brake pedal. It stops the pedal from sinking too far when bleeding the brakes.

3. Attach a Tube to the Bleeder Bolt: Connect a clear plastic tube (like aquarium tubing) to the bleeder bolt of the wheel farthest from the brake fluid reservoir.

4. Submerge the Tube in Brake Fluid: Place the other end of the tube into a jar with 2–3 inches of clean brake fluid.

5. Press the Brake Pedal: Ask a helper to press and hold the brake pedal. Once they’ve pressed it, they should say “down.”

6. Loosen the Bleeder Bolt: Turn the bolt a quarter turn to the left. Air and old fluid will flow through the tube into the jar.

7. Close the Bolt and Release the Pedal: Tighten the bolt, then ask your helper to release the pedal and call out “up.”

8. Repeat Until Clear Fluid Flows: Keep cycling through the process until fresh, clear brake fluid comes through the tube.

Check and refill the master cylinder reservoir with fresh fluid every 5–6 cycles.

9. Move to the Next Wheel: Repeat the process on all four wheels, working from the furthest to the closest to the reservoir.

Bleeding your brakes may take some patience, but it’s essential for safety. Clear, responsive brakes are worth the effort!
゚