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02/23/2025

The Art of Rose Pruning: A 7-Step Guide for Vibrant Blooms
1. Choose the Right Time
Prune in late winter or early spring, just as new growth begins, typically after the last frost when buds start to swell.
2. Gather Your Tools
Use sharp bypass pruners, long-handled loppers, gardening gloves, and disinfectant for clean and safe pruning.
3. Identify and Remove Dead or Diseased Wood
Cut out any dead, damaged, or diseased wood. Dead wood is brown and dry; healthy wood is green inside. Cut back to healthy tissue.
4. Cut Back to Outward-Facing Buds
Make cuts 1/4 inch above an outward-facing bud at a 45-degree angle to encourage outward growth and prevent water retention.
5. Thin Out Crowded Areas
Remove crossing or rubbing branches to improve airflow and light pe*******on, aiming for an open, vase-like shape.
6. Shape the Plant
Prune for a balanced, symmetrical form, removing weak or spindly growth to focus energy on stronger branches.
7. Feed and Mulch
After pruning, feed roses with balanced fertilizer and apply mulch to retain moisture, suppress weeds, and regulate soil temperature.
Additional Tips for Success
Prune Regularly: Remove spent blooms throughout the growing season to encourage continuous flowering.
Know Your Rose Type: Different roses require different pruning techniques; for example, hybrid teas need more severe pruning than climbers.
Disinfect Tools: Clean tools with disinfectant between cuts, especially when dealing with diseased plants, to prevent pathogen spread.

02/23/2025

Mastering Rose Pruning: A Complete Guide for Every Age 🌹🌟

Understanding how to prune roses based on their age is essential for promoting healthy growth and vibrant blooms. In the first year after planting, it’s important to perform formative pruning. When the fourth leaf appears, pinch it back to encourage an elegant shape throughout the summer season.

Pruning roses according to their age involves several steps:

1. After pruning, disinfect the cut areas using garden paint or specialized products available at gardening stores.
2. Remove all damaged and sick branches, as well as those growing inward into the bush.
3. Feed your roses with a balanced fertilizer to help them recover quickly from pruning.
4. Consider using organic fertilizers such as well-rotted manure or compost for added nutrients.
5. Loosen the soil around the bushes to improve aeration and retain moisture.
6. Keep the area weed-free and mulch around the plants to maintain moisture and protect the roots from overheating.
7. Treat your roses for pests and diseases as needed.
8. Regularly prune roses to maintain their shape and stimulate blooming.
9. If you live in a cold climate, make sure to provide winter protection for your roses.
10. Perform sanitary pruning in spring by removing damaged and unhealthy shoots.

By following these guidelines, you can effectively prune your roses, ensuring they thrive and produce abundant flowers. For more in-depth information, consider reading additional articles and watching instructional videos on rose pruning techniques.

02/23/2025

Winter Care for Climbing Roses 🌹❄️
Proper winter care ensures healthy climbing roses with vigorous blooms in the next season.

Steps:
1. Prune climbing roses between December and February, after blooming, to maintain structure and encourage new growth.
2. Remove all foliage to clearly see the plant’s structure and identify areas needing attention.
3. Cut away dead, diseased, or weak branches, ensuring only healthy stems remain.
4. Tie new shoots to the support structure, positioning them for optimal growth and airflow.
5. Trim flowered side shoots by two-thirds to promote fresh blooms in the next season.
6. Remove older base branches to encourage new, strong growth from the base.
7. Eliminate dead stumps at the base to prevent rot and reduce the risk of fungal infections.
8. Clear fallen leaves and debris around the plant to minimize disease spread.
9. In early spring, apply granular rose fertilizer and enrich the soil with compost or well-rotted manure to nourish the plant.

With proper winter care, your climbing roses will flourish with abundant blooms in the warmer months! 🌹❄️

02/23/2025

Supercharge Your Tomato Garden! 🍎🌱

If you're looking to cultivate tomatoes that are not only abundant but also bursting with flavor, you're in the right place! Here are some super tips that will ensure your garden thrives and produces mouthwatering tomatoes.

1. Planting tomato stems deeply can significantly enhance root development, making your plants more resilient to varying weather conditions.
2. As your tomato plants grow, be sure to remove their lower leaves. This simple step helps reduce the risk of diseases that often affect plants at ground level.
3. Don’t forget to pinch off any side shoots. This technique allows your plants to channel their energy into producing luscious fruit rather than excessive foliage.
4. Applying a layer of mulch around your plants is essential for moisture retention. It also acts as a barrier against soil-borne diseases.
5. To deter pesky slugs and snails, consider placing copper strips around your garden. They create an uncomfortable environment for these critters.
6. Providing your tomatoes with support through stakes or cages is crucial. This keeps the plants upright and can prevent damage from heavy fruit or wind.
7. It’s important to space your plants adequately to maximize sunlight exposure and ensure good airflow, both of which are key to healthy growth.
8. Watering directly at the base of your plants is beneficial. It helps avoid splashing water on the leaves, which can lead to cracking and diseases.
9. For a nutritional boost, try adding a bit of Epsom salt to your soil every few weeks. This can promote healthier growth and enhance flavor.
10. Water your plants deeply and slowly to thoroughly nourish the roots, which is vital for a fruitful harvest.
11. Consider planting marigolds close to your tomatoes. They naturally repel pests and help protect the roots of your beloved plants.
12. Garlic isn’t just great in the kitchen—growing it near your tomatoes can increase their flavor and help combat fungal diseases.

By incorporating these tips into your gardening routine, you'll be well on your way to enjoying a glorious harvest of fresh, flavorful tomatoes! 🌼🍅

02/23/2025

Transform Your Garden with Stunning Limelight Hydrangeas 🌼✂️🌿

Limelight hydrangeas are a beautiful variety of woody hydrangeas known for their large, football-shaped blooms that add charm to any garden. Pruning these plants is straightforward and essential for their health and bloom production. This guide offers effective pruning tips, optimal timing, and care advice to help you maintain your Limelight hydrangeas.

The best time to prune Limelight hydrangeas is during late winter or early spring, just as new growth begins. By cutting back about one-third of the plant's growth, you encourage the plant to focus its energy on producing larger blooms. It's also important to remove any dead, diseased, or damaged branches at any time of the year. Always make pruning cuts at a 45-degree angle to facilitate water drainage and prevent infection.

Before you start, ensure your pruning tools are clean by washing them with soap and water or disinfecting them with isopropyl alcohol. This practice helps to avoid spreading diseases. If you notice old flowers from the previous season, you can choose to remove them for a tidier look, though leaving them can also create an appealing winter aesthetic.

When pruning, look for nodes on the stems, as these are where new growth will emerge. Always prune just above these nodes to encourage healthy branching. If you have difficulty locating the nodes, you can feel for the small bumps along the stems.

Regularly inspect your Limelight hydrangea for any dead or diseased branches, which may appear gray or less dense, or show signs of cankers or spots. Removing these branches is crucial for the plant's health. Additionally, eliminate any crossing branches that may damage each other by cutting back the crooked ones at their base.

If you find hollow branches, this may indicate pest activity. Trim these back to the next healthy node and check for hollowness; if they remain hollow, continue cutting until you reach solid wood.

To promote larger blooms, remove small twig-like branches at the base of the hydrangea. This allows the plant to concentrate its energy on fewer, larger stems during bloom time. However, if you prefer more blooms, you can leave the smaller branches and assess their impact on bloom size over a season.

If your Limelight hydrangea has become too tall, trim back all branches without removing more than one-third of the total growth. This method supports a strong base of older wood, which is essential for new growth in spring. Limelight hydrangeas are resilient and respond well to significant pruning.

By following these tips, you can enjoy a vibrant display of Limelight hydrangea blooms each spring. Happy gardening!

02/23/2025

Spring Pruning Guide for Hydrangeas 🌳🍃

March is the ideal month for the spring pruning of hydrangeas, which promotes growth and flower splendor.
Types of Hydrangea and cutting requirements: Large leafed Hydrangea (Hydrangea macrophylla) flowering on old wood; remove only dried flowers and frozen shoots. Caspian hydrangea (Hydrangea paniculate) bloom on one-year wood; different cutting methods (e.g. combination cutting) promote the flowering. Tree-like hydrangeas (Hydrangea arborescent) also bloom on young wood; the cutting promotes the compactness of the plant. The benefits of getting a spring cut: Promotes new, healthy growth and richer blossoms. Improves plant shape and air circulation. Reducing frost damage. Step-by-Step Cutting Guide: Remove old, sick cuts and trim healthy cuts.

02/23/2025

Mastering Tree Pruning: Tips for Optimal Health and Growth 🌳✂️

Pruning trees correctly is essential for their health and productivity. A common mistake is to cut branches "to the ring," leaving just a tiny stub. This method can be beneficial in specific situations, primarily around the outer edges of the crown and only after the risk of frost has passed. Cutting in this manner reduces the number of water sprouts that can sap the tree's energy, leading to better crown management.

For branches near the trunk, it is advisable to leave a stump of about 30 cm. This acts as a protective measure against frost and helps transfer nutrients from larger branches to the smaller ones. Over time, this stump will need to be removed as part of regular maintenance, but it serves its purpose in the interim.

When encountering sharp forks where multiple strong shoots emerge, it’s best to leave a stump initially, removing it later after the other branch has established itself.

After pruning, if the tree has been treated with fungicidal products and tools were disinfected, sealing the cut may not be necessary. However, any cut larger than 10 cm should be treated. Recommended sealing substances include:

- Rannet: A paste that promotes healing and tissue regeneration, priced around 130 ₽ for 150 g.
- German balm: Costs between 800-1000 ₽ for 200 g, applied in a thin layer over exposed areas.
- Propolis-based garden wax: Approximately 200 ₽ for 135 g, widely suggested in gardening literature.

All three options are equally effective, so any can be used based on preference.

To learn more about proper pruning techniques, consider the following resources:

- Attend lectures in larger cities, such as those held in botanical gardens. Details can typically be found on their social media pages.
- Explore YouTube channels and social media groups that focus on horticulture, including those hosted by fellow gardeners.
- Read books that provide practical advice, such as "Formation and Pruning of Garden Trees" by R. Kudryavtsev and "Pruning Fruit Trees in Intensive Cultivation" by V. Cherepakhin.

It’s essential to apply theoretical knowledge through practice, which usually takes about three months of regular work to develop proficiency.

To maintain a healthy garden, remember these guidelines:

- Prune annually in spring or fall, and during summer if improving yield is necessary.
- Keep a basic toolkit: two hand saws, two pruners, a multi-step ladder, and a pole pruner.
- Avoid cutting more than one-third of the plant’s mass in a single session.
- Begin by removing dead and diseased branches, then shape the crown, and finally rejuvenate as needed.
- Leave stumps when cutting near the trunk for better protection against frost and diseases, helping younger branches thrive.
- Seal cuts with Rennet, balm, or propolis-based wax for optimal protection.

02/23/2025

Essential Guide to Pruning Your Fig Tree 🌳✂️

Pruning your fig tree is vital for ensuring its health and maximizing fruit production. This process consists of a few key steps that can create a beautiful and fruitful tree. Start with preservation cuts, which involve removing dead or diseased branches to promote healthy growth. The cultivation section is all about shaping the crown of the tree; this means shortening long branches to encourage fruit formation and achieving a balanced structure.

When making cuts, opt for vertical techniques to facilitate water drainage and reduce the risk of fungal infections. It’s essential to disinfect your pruning tools thoroughly before use to prevent the spread of any diseases. After pruning, ensure your fig tree receives proper care: regular balanced fertilization, adequate watering, and protection from harsh winter conditions will all contribute to its vitality.

With proper pruning and care, your fig tree will not only flourish but also reward you with abundant fruit and a beautiful appearance in your garden. Happy gardening! 🍏🌿

02/23/2025

Essential Guide to Grafting Trees for Fruitful Results 🌳✨

Grafting is a fascinating horticultural technique that involves joining parts of two plants together so they grow as one. This method is especially popular in fruit tree propagation, allowing gardeners to combine the best traits of the rootstock and the scion. If you’re interested in learning how to graft trees effectively, including the bark grafting method, this guide will provide you with essential insights.

The Right Time for Grafting
The best time to graft trees is typically in late winter or early spring, just before the sap begins to flow and the buds start to break. This timing allows the graft to heal and grow during the active growing season, increasing the chances of success.

Choosing Scion and Rootstock
When selecting your scion, choose a healthy, disease-free shoot from a one-year-old tree, ensuring it has 2-3 buds. The rootstock should be compatible with the scion, healthy, and well-established. The size of the rootstock may vary depending on the grafting method you choose.

Common Grafting Methods
– Whip Grafting: Ideal for scions and rootstocks of similar size. Make diagonal cuts in both pieces and join them so the cambium layers (the green layer beneath the bark) meet.
– Cleft Grafting: Best for larger rootstocks. Cut a vertical slit in the rootstock and insert a wedge-shaped scion into the split.
– Bud Grafting (Budding): This involves inserting a bud into a cut on the rootstock, commonly done in summer when buds are mature.

Bark Grafting Technique
This method is suitable for larger rootstocks and when the bark easily separates from the wood, usually in spring. Make a T-shaped cut in the bark of the rootstock, gently peel back the flaps, and insert a scion with a few buds and a small piece of wood. Ensure the scion is in contact with the cambium layer of the rootstock.

Aftercare for Grafted Trees
Seal the graft union with grafting wax or tape to prevent drying out. Ensure the grafted tree receives adequate water, and avoid fertilizing until the graft has successfully taken. Monitor the graft for signs of growth or failure, adjusting care as needed.

Tips for Successful Grafting
– Disinfect all tools before grafting to prevent disease spread.
– Make clean, precise cuts to ensure good contact between cambium layers.
– Label grafted plants for easy identification later.
– Patience is key, as some grafts may take time to establish.

Grafting can be a rewarding process, enabling gardeners and fruit growers to create unique combinations of fruit trees or repair damaged ones. Each grafting method has its advantages, and understanding these techniques will help you choose the best approach for your needs. With practice and care, grafting can lead to successful and productive growth in your garden or orchard! 🌼🍏

02/23/2025

PRUNING FIG TREES, Best Pruning Techniques for BIGGER FRUITS and BETTER CROPS
1. Timing: Prune fig trees at least three times a year:
🌼 Spring: Trim misshapen or damaged branches and roots. Cut overly long branches back to a 2-inch stub.
☀️ Early Summer: Trim new growth with 5-6 leaflets. By late June, prune the tips of shoots with 5 leaflets. Wear gloves to avoid sap irritation.
🍂 Autumn: Remove unripe branches but leave pea-sized developing fruit.
2. Steps to Prune:
Initial Pruning: After transplanting or during the first inactive season, reduce the tree's size by half to promote strong root growth.
Second Year: Trim back branches that bore fruit to encourage new productive growth.
Subsequent Seasons: Prune mainly in winter when the tree is dormant. Remove buds sprouting at the tree's base and any dead or diseased branches.
Maintain Shape: Regularly trim secondary stems emerging at a 45° angle from the main branches. Reduce primary branches to one-third of their size for optimal fruiting.
🔧 Tools Needed:
- Hand pruners for branches up to 1 inch
- Loppers for up to 2 inches
- Pruning saws for 3-5 inches
- Chainsaw for thicker branches
4. Fig Tree Types:
Fig Tree: Grows tall and needs less frequent pruning.
Fig Bush: Stays shorter, requires more regular trimming, and can be grown in containers.
5. Common Questions:
Over-Pruning: Avoid excessive trimming, which may hinder tree growth for up to two years.
Bearing Wood: Refers to branches that produce figs; prune non-bearing branches to focus the tree's energy.

02/23/2025

Summer pruning for a thriving vineyard 🌿✂️

1. During summer, new fruit shoots grow from the buds on the lateral vines. As they develop, tie these shoots vertically to the trellis to support their growth. By mid-summer, each tied shoot should have produced 10 to 15 leaves, which is more than enough to nourish the grapes.
2. The optimal time for summer pruning is between mid-June and mid-July. Cut back each fruit shoot to the fourth or sixth leaf above the last grape cluster to ensure proper energy distribution.
3. Shorten or completely remove non-fruit-bearing and disruptive shoots by two-thirds to maintain order and focus energy on productive branches.
4. Defoliate the grapevine in the fruit zone to improve sunlight exposure for the grapes. Fresh shoots will emerge from the buds below the cut areas, promoting healthy growth.
5. Regularly monitor your grapevines for water shoots and suckers. These unproductive growths can sap vital energy from the plant. Remove water shoots from old wood and suckers from leaf axils by pinching or breaking them off with your fingers.
6. To rejuvenate an old grapevine, prune back dead framework shoots to a 15 cm stub on the main trunk or rootstock between late November and February. In subsequent years, train a vigorous young shoot to fill the gap and direct energy toward healthy growth.

Common questions about grapevines:
- Are grapevines self-pollinating? Yes, most grapevines are self-fertile, meaning one plant can produce grapes. However, planting multiple varieties can enhance yield.
- How should I train a grapevine with three shoots on a single stem? Select the strongest shoot to train upward, cutting back the others to the ground. Once the main shoot reaches the desired height, trim it to encourage branching.
- What size pot is suitable for container-grown grapevines? Choose a pot that allows for adequate root growth, typically between 20 and 50 liters, depending on the intended spread of the vine.

Happy pruning and may your grapevines flourish abundantly! 🍇🌞

02/23/2025

Unlocking the Secrets to Growing Peach Trees in Cold Regions 🍑❄️

Growing peach trees in colder climates can be incredibly rewarding with the right knowledge and techniques. Peach trees (Prunus persica), part of the stone fruit family, can flourish even in areas with occasional frost, provided you apply effective care and pruning strategies. Understanding the growth cycles of these trees is key to maximizing their fruit production.

The significance of regular pruning cannot be overstated, as it plays a pivotal role in maintaining tree health and boosting yield. Peach trees produce fruit on one-year-old wood, so generous and strategic pruning fosters new branch growth, leading to bountiful harvests.

Timing your pruning is essential. Winter, specifically from January to April, is ideal for stimulating growth and preparing the tree for floral bud development. Summer pruning, done between late June and early August, helps manage excessive growth and balances fruit production with the development of new branches.

For young peach trees, planting pruning involves shortening lateral branches to five buds and ensuring the central trunk stands taller. As the tree matures, maintenance pruning becomes necessary—remove older, unproductive branches while retaining those that bear fruit. Understanding the different types of branches is crucial in this process. True fruiting branches produce viable fruit and should be preserved, while false fruiting branches, which only bloom without fruiting, should be trimmed to optimize the tree's energy.

By mastering these pruning techniques and recognizing the specific needs of your peach trees, you can enjoy healthy, productive trees even in colder climates. This knowledge will empower you to create a thriving garden that delivers a delicious harvest. Happy gardening! 🌸🌿

02/23/2025

Essential guide to winter pruning your grapevines 🍇✂️
1. The winter pruning process begins in February, marking the start of the annual main cut, which focuses on maintaining young, productive fruit canes as the vine reaches its fourth year.
2. Trim side shoots along the arms back to two buds, ensuring that each node on the arm retains one side shoot as a fruit cane.
3. Aim for an ideal distance of 10 to 20 centimeters between each fruit cane to allow for optimal air circulation and sunlight exposure.
4. Remove any excess fruit branches at their base to encourage healthy growth in the remaining shoots.
5. Make cuts at a slight angle to facilitate proper juice flow and minimize damage to the vine.
As illustrated in the accompanying images, prioritize those shoots that are closest to the main trunk or framework of the vine. Their proximity to the structure is more critical than their growth direction. It is less important whether the cut fruit cane points left, right, or upward. Any other shoots emerging from a node should be cut off at the base without leaving stubs.
In February, cut back all spent canes to two buds. If multiple shoots have formed, remove the outer fruit canes. Only shorten the cane closest to the framework to two buds so it can bloom and produce fruit this year.
Background: mastering proper cutting technique is crucial for successful vine pruning. Whether training horizontal framework branches or conducting the winter fruit wood cut, focus on the buds. Position your pruning shears close to a bud, avoid cutting into it, and refrain from leaving long stubs. An angled cut ensures that sap flows in the desired direction, preventing lower buds from drowning.
Happy pruning, and may your grapevines flourish this season! 🍇🌱

02/23/2025

Unleash the Magic of Holiday Cacti: Spot the Differences! 🎉🌵
Not sure which festive cactus you’re caring for? Here’s how to identify Thanksgiving, Christmas, and Easter cacti:
1. Christmas Cactus:
- Leaf Shape: Rounded edges with subtle scalloping.
- Bloom Time: Mid to late December, perfect for the holidays.
- Color Palette: Red, pink, peach, or white.
2. Thanksgiving Cactus:
- Leaf Shape: Sharp, pointed edges that resemble crab claws.
- Bloom Time: Late fall, around November.
- Color Palette: Pink, red, orange, and white blooms.
3. Easter Cactus:
- Leaf Shape: Smooth, rounded segments with slight bristles at the edges.
- Bloom Time: Early spring, usually March or April.
- Color Palette: Bright pink, purple, or red flowers.
Fun Fact: Thanksgiving and Christmas cacti are both available in our greenhouse right now! Stop by to brighten up your holiday season!

02/23/2025

Prune Like a Pro: Essential Tips for Butterfly Bush Care 🦋💐

Pruning butterfly bushes is vital for their health and the biodiversity of your garden. These vibrant plants bloom from July to September, attracting pollinators like bees and butterflies. Proper management is crucial, as they can spread rapidly and become invasive.

It's best to prune between December and February, avoiding frost and heavy sunlight. A cloudy, dry day is ideal to minimize infection at the cut sites. Pruning yearly helps maintain a healthy shape, allowing the resilient plants to thrive.

Here are three key types of cuts to consider:

1. Establishment Cut: For young plants, prune within the first three years by selecting 3-5 healthy shoots and cutting them back to about 30 cm to create a strong framework.
2. Flower Cut: During the blooming season, remove wilted flower spikes to prevent them from going to seed and spreading uncontrollably.
3. Renewal Cut: In cases of weakened plants, a radical cut in late winter can replace old growth with younger shoots, boosting summer blooms.

Dispose of cut flowers in household waste to control spread. With proper care, your butterfly bush will flourish and enhance the vibrancy of your garden!

02/23/2025

20 Vegetables That Grow In The Shade

1. Lettuce: Varieties such as butterhead, romaine, and loose-leaf lettuce are excellent choices for shady areas, as they prefer cooler temperatures and partial shade.

2. Spinach: This nutrient-rich green thrives in partial shade and can tolerate cooler temperatures, making it an ideal choice for shaded garden beds.

3. Kale: Known for its hardiness and nutritional benefits, kale is well-suited to shady environments and can even thrive in colder climates.

4. Arugula: With its peppery flavor and fast growth habit, arugula is a versatile green that performs well in partial shade.

5. Radishes: These fast-growing root vegetables are ideal for shaded areas, as they prefer cooler temperatures and can tolerate less sunlight than other root crops.

6. Carrots: While carrots typically require full sun, they can still produce decent yields in partial shade, especially in cooler climates.

7. Beets: Beets can tolerate partial shade and thrive in cool, moist soil, making them a suitable choice for shaded garden beds.

8. Mint: Mint is a hardy herb that can thrive in partial shade, although it may require regular watering to prevent drying out in shady areas.

9. Chives: These flavorful herbs are well-suited to partial shade and can be easily grown in containers or garden beds.

10. Parsley: Parsley is another herb that can tolerate partial shade, although it may benefit from some morning sunlight to promote robust growth.

11. Broccoli: While broccoli prefers full sun, it can still produce decent yields in partial shade, especially in cooler climates or during the fall season.

12. Cabbage: Cabbage is a cold-hardy vegetable that can tolerate partial shade, although it may take longer to mature compared to plants grown in full sun.

13. Brussels Sprouts: Similar to broccoli and cabbage, Brussels sprouts can tolerate partial shade but may require additional time to reach maturity.

14. Green Onions: Also known as scallions or spring onions, green onions can be grown in partial shade and are relatively low-maintenance.

15. Garlic: While garlic prefers full sun, it can still produce decent bulbs in partial shade, although the size of the bulbs may be smaller compared to those grown in full sun.

16. Peas: Peas are cool-season vegetables that can tolerate partial shade and prefer cooler temperatures, making them an excellent choice for shady garden beds.

17. Green Beans: While green beans prefer full sun, they can still produce moderate yields in partial shade, especially if provided with rich, well-draining soil.

18. Swiss Chard: This colorful and nutritious vegetable can tolerate partial shade and is well-suited to cooler climates.

19. Celery: Celery can tolerate partial shade and prefers cooler temperatures, making it a suitable choice for shady garden beds.

20. Asian Greens: Varieties such as Bok choy, tatsoi, and mizuna are excellent choices for shaded areas, as they prefer cooler temperatures and can tolerate partial shade.

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Breaking news on the squirrel that was found bludgeoned to death by a broom

To those people who have been following me for years …. Don’t play all innocent. 😀 you knew at some point this day would come. 😂 Here he is behind over 3 US tons of international Harvester power not including the weight of the hydraulic bucket system or the chisel plow 😀 He learned the gear system and and how to operate a clutch. He hooked up the chisel plow and got a working lesson of the three-point hitch. He learned the operational system for the PTO and drove it across the farm. He was in slow mode but I want him to learn how to drive it first before he can “ DRIVE “ it , if that makes any sense . I have to say I began to cry a bit because all the while this was happening,he had a grin on from ear to ear . He was so happy and It was a proud moment for him and I understood that but all I could hear in my mind was the lyrics to the song “ Drive “ from Alan Jackson . ( for those who don’t know the song https://youtu.be/mntNwKKNFu4?si=Qo49qjbxvVvfqMx9 ) It made me think of my Dad and me and that’s when I got choked up. Tears formed for the days of long ago when I was his age, behind the wheel for the first time I didn’t let him see this , because this wasn’t about me but about him . I made sure he could see how proud I was when he navigated the orchard trees and drove up the hill around the buildings . He then loaded up the chisel plow climbed up and drove I miss my dad but I love my son more I’m so proud of him

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