
03/22/2025
Colorado climbers Jesse Huey, Matt Segal and their Canadian friend Quentin Roberts recently completed a winter, mixed-style free ascent of D7 on the Diamond of Longs Peak (Neniisoteyou’u, 14,255’). Though they used ice axes to dry tool the thin cracks of the 5.11+ route, they did not use crampons to avoid leaving scratch marks on one of the state’s most classic alpine climbs. There were also short sections that required bare hands to climb. All three climbed the ca. 600-foot route without jumaring to clean and follow the pitches.
“A team free ascent was really important to all of us,” Huey told Alpinist over the phone. He said that style was much slower than having a dedicated supporter following on jumars. “Transitioning from freezing at the belay to climbing took time,” he said. A key strategy was carrying down booties on their harnesses to change into at belays, rather than lugging up heavy boots.
Read the rest of the story here: https://alpinist.com/newswire/a-mixed-style-free-ascent-of-the-diamond-in-winter-sans-crampons/
[Photos] Courtesy of Arc’teryx/Jon Glassberg