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Colorado climbers Jesse Huey, Matt Segal and their Canadian friend Quentin Roberts recently completed a winter, mixed-st...
03/22/2025

Colorado climbers Jesse Huey, Matt Segal and their Canadian friend Quentin Roberts recently completed a winter, mixed-style free ascent of D7 on the Diamond of Longs Peak (Neniisoteyou’u, 14,255’). Though they used ice axes to dry tool the thin cracks of the 5.11+ route, they did not use crampons to avoid leaving scratch marks on one of the state’s most classic alpine climbs. There were also short sections that required bare hands to climb. All three climbed the ca. 600-foot route without jumaring to clean and follow the pitches.

“A team free ascent was really important to all of us,” Huey told Alpinist over the phone. He said that style was much slower than having a dedicated supporter following on jumars. “Transitioning from freezing at the belay to climbing took time,” he said. A key strategy was carrying down booties on their harnesses to change into at belays, rather than lugging up heavy boots.

Read the rest of the story here: https://alpinist.com/newswire/a-mixed-style-free-ascent-of-the-diamond-in-winter-sans-crampons/

[Photos] Courtesy of Arc’teryx/Jon Glassberg



In this Sharp End story from Alpinist 89—which is now available on newsstands and in our online store—Derek Franz writes...
03/20/2025

In this Sharp End story from Alpinist 89—which is now available on newsstands and in our online store—Derek Franz writes about thirty-one-year-old Séb Berthe becoming the fourth person to free climb the Dawn Wall, a thirty-two-pitch 5.14d route on El Capitan, after a fourteen-day push in January. Beyond that, Franz contemplates what else might be accomplished with the willpower and dedication of a climber’s mindset; he writes:

“Dawn Wall free in a day. There, I thought it, said it, wrote it. Someday it’s sure to happen, yes? Séb Berthe agrees…. Saying, speaking, believing—these all make a thing that much closer to reality. Or, potentially, they only lead one deeper into rabbit holes of delusion. Fanciful, futuristic things are generally assumed to be delusion until they are made real by alchemists—people who maybe have to be at least a little bit mad to believe such possibilities in the first place. Climbers constantly test themselves against delusion.”

You can now read the story online: https://alpinist.com/the-sharp-end/impossible-things/

Did you know—only a small fraction of our many long-form stories from the print edition are ever uploaded to Alpinist.com. Be sure to pick up Alpinist 89 for all the goodness: Alpinist.com/89

1) Berthe assesses his skin on January 29, Day 13 of a successful fourteen-day push to free climb El Capitan’s Dawn Wall (VI 5.14d). With a storm bearing down, he would press on through the night of January 30, climbing two pitches of 5.13, five of 5.12 and five of 5.11 to top out at 8 a.m. on January 31. [Photo] Chris Natalie

2) Berthe fights through snow and wind to send Pitch 14 (5.14d). [Photo] Chris Natalie


8000

ALPINIST 89 | SPRING 2025 | JANNU EAST | ST. KILDA | SQUAMISH | CAYONLANDS | MAPACHE STYLE Issue 89 features a story by ...
03/19/2025

ALPINIST 89 | SPRING 2025 | JANNU EAST | ST. KILDA | SQUAMISH | CAYONLANDS | MAPACHE STYLE

Issue 89 features a story by Brendan Jones about the life of Michael Gardner, a world-renowned alpinist and extreme sports athlete. Gardner guided Jones up the Grand Teton in 2022 and the two kept in touch with plans for Jones to write a magazine profile about Gardner’s wild and unusual life. Tragically, he fell to his death and disappeared while attempting to complete the first ascent of Jannu East (7460m) in Nepal with Sam Hennessey last October. Jones’ story has become a reflection that looks into the lives of the Gardner family.

Elsewhere in the magazine, Didier Berthod writes about his life’s journey that revolved around his efforts to send Cobra Crack (5.14b) in Squamish. The Swiss phenom was 23 years old at the time and had yet to be tested by deep failure and uncertainty. Plus, Mary Catherine Eden writes about growing up “land rich and money poor” with her parents and older sister in rural Kentucky, and the unlikely routes that led to her becoming one of the best crack climbers on the planet.

Meanwhile, Derek Franz writes about Séb Berthe’s free ascent of the Dawn Wall. Katie Ives, Andrew Szalay and Abbey Collins share reading recommendations. Collins interviews some of the researchers behind the new collection Other Everests. And Hannah Provost cracks open a very old book.

Robbie Phillips sails to the historic seacliffs of St. Kilda. Chris Schulte measures a day. Collins gets engaged in the Red River Gorge. Franz sends a poetry problem. Lauren Fox sees the consequences of climate change in the Himalaya close-up. Jill Wheatley finds solace in the mountains after a traumatic brain injury. Kapil Bisht celebrates Maya Sherpa’s insistence on revolting against traditional gender roles. Leo Gambella finds a bit of clarity during a cloudy day in Patagonia at the start of his career. And much, much more.

Find Alpinist 89 on newsstands, in our online store or subscribe at Alpinist.com/89


Alpinist 89 Cover: Mary Eden () squeezes up Gabriel (5.13), an offwidth route in Zion National Park. [Photo] Keisuke Mizuno

In this Mountain Profile essay from Alpinist 88—which is available on newsstands and in our online store—Holly Yu Tung C...
02/28/2025

In this Mountain Profile essay from Alpinist 88—which is available on newsstands and in our online store—Holly Yu Tung Chen reviews the legacy of Sarah Doherty, the first female amputee to climb Mt. Rainier in 1984. Doherty went on to become the very first amputee to climb Denali the following year.

Doherty lost her right leg to a drunk driver when she was thirteen, but she continued to pursue athletics like skiing, which led her to be introduced to mountaineering. On her summit day on Rainier, at around 13,000 feet, Doherty lost the ice pick fitted on the bottom of one of her crutches while jumping over a crevasse. It nearly dashed her hope, but instead it would be remembered as just another typical obstacle that she would overcome repeatedly throughout her life. Before dying of a brain aneurysm in 2023, Doherty had been a force in developing specialized crutches with her husband, and together they founded the company .

Chen wrote a feature story about Doherty for Issue 86, and in this essay, she shares how she came to feel a personal connection with the inspiring woman.

You can now read the story online: https://alpinist.com/features/1984-sarahs-summit/

Did you know—only a small fraction of our many long-form stories from the print edition are ever uploaded to Alpinist.com. Be sure to pick up Alpinist 88 for all the goodness: Alpinist.com/88

Sarah Doherty on Denali (20,310’) in 1985, when she became the first amputee to summit North America’s tallest peak. Matt Kerns, one of her climbing partners, wrote fondly of Doherty in The American Alpine Journal the following year: “I don’t believe she was attempting Denali to be the first amputee to reach the summit. She seemed to have nothing to prove.” [Photo] Bill Sumner
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In this Mountain Profile essay from Alpinist 88—which is now available on newsstands and in our online store— Cal’ Smith...
02/06/2025

In this Mountain Profile essay from Alpinist 88—which is now available on newsstands and in our online store— Cal’ Smith writes about discovering a closer connection to his Native American ancestors quite a while after he’d become obsessed with mountaineering. He writes:

“When I was younger, my grandpa told me a story about a young Yakama man who sought the summit of Takhoma in search of a buried treasure. He tried three times, and then, on the fourth, he found himself atop the great white mountain. As he stared into the fiery lake on the summit, his reflection expanded out of the lake and took the form of Takhoma’s spirit. Concerned for his safety, he threw the treasure into the lake and fled. Returning home without the treasure, he had no proof he had made it to the summit, and his friends laughed. If only I had heard the moral of this story as a kid, because it all makes so much sense now.”

You can now read the story online: https://alpinist.com/features/1792-present-deconstructing-rainier-reconstructing-takhoma/

Did you know—only a small fraction of our many long-form stories from the print edition are ever uploaded to Alpinist.com. Be sure to pick up Alpinist 88 for all the goodness: Alpinist.com/88

Cal’ Smith smiles on the summit of Pahto (Mt. Adams), south of Takhoma. “Most of Takhoma (Mt. Rainier) is visible from town, while Pahto is the centerpiece of the valley my family grew up in,” Smith writes. [Photo] Courtesy of Cal’ Smith



In this Mountain Profile essay from Alpinist 88—which is now available on newsstands and in our online store—Chris Weidn...
01/29/2025

In this Mountain Profile essay from Alpinist 88—which is now available on newsstands and in our online store—Chris Weidner reflects on the significance of Mt. Rainier (Tahoma) in his storied climbing career. He writes:

“The mountain’s changing conditions, technical terrain and unpredictable weather make it a far more serious objective than the Lower 48’s other “Fourteeners.” It’s no wonder Mt. Rainier has been an invaluable training ground for generations of mountaineers who plan to climb higher and harder.

“Climbers like Ed Viesturs, the first American to climb all fourteen 8000-meter peaks, climbed extensively on Mt. Rainier. The mountain played an important role in the early careers of other famous alpinists such as Mark Twight, Conrad Anker, Willie Benegas, Melissa Arnot Reid, Willi Unsoeld, Lou and Jim Whittaker and countless others over the years.

“For me, Mt. Rainier was both the training and the test….

“My most memorable, and indeed most life-changing, ascent of Mt. Rainier was my third, which, I’m embarrassed to admit, is also a survival story.”

You can now read the story here: https://alpinist.com/features/1988-1995-the-training-and-the-test/

Did you know—only a small fraction of our many long-form stories from the print edition are ever uploaded to Alpinist.com. Be sure to pick up Alpinist 88 for all the goodness: Alpinist.com/88

A storm approaches as Chris Weidner and Jeff Hashimoto climb Liberty Ridge in 1995. [Photo] Chris Weidner



Alpinist has been nominated for a People’s Choice Award at the 2025 Outdoor Media Summit. Please help support us by voti...
01/24/2025

Alpinist has been nominated for a People’s Choice Award at the 2025 Outdoor Media Summit. Please help support us by voting for us on the group’s page before noon on Feb. 2!

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48 Hour SALE: Now through 12/22 save 20% on an Alpinist Gift Subscription. Just $60 for the gift of Alpinist all year lo...
12/21/2024

48 Hour SALE: Now through 12/22 save 20% on an Alpinist Gift Subscription. Just $60 for the gift of Alpinist all year long. Includes a printable gift card, a great last-minute stocking stuffer!

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Climbers on your list? Consider the gift of Alpinist magazine, an award-winning quarterly journal dedicated to the art o...
12/16/2024

Climbers on your list? Consider the gift of Alpinist magazine, an award-winning quarterly journal dedicated to the art of the ascent.

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In this Sharp End story from Alpinist 88—which is now available on newsstands and in our online store—Derek Franz consid...
12/14/2024

In this Sharp End story from Alpinist 88—which is now available on newsstands and in our online store—Derek Franz considers how to navigate the grey area where ethics and egos clash. He writes: “Any climber worth their salt must understand their relationship with ego. It affects not only the individual but also those around them, even the environment and future generations, a ring of ripple effects….

“More and more people are entering the ‘sport’ with a different focus and philosophy. What they are seeking on the rocks and mountains is changing.

“As editor of this magazine, I am a cog in this industry. I see it as my job to remind us of our history, our original values and inspirations—the less tangible aspects of this activity that we love—and what stands to be lost if we allow ourselves to be swept up in the modern rabid thirst for more.”

You can now read the story here: https://alpinist.com/features/navigating-a-crack-of-doom/

Did you know—only a small fraction of our many long-form stories from the print edition are ever uploaded to Alpinist.com. Be sure to pick up Alpinist 88 for all the goodness: Alpinist.com/88

1) Todd Skinner on Strategic Defense (5.11c/d), at City of Rocks, Idaho, 1987. [Photo] Bill Hatcher.

2) Hayden Jamieson on the time-tested classic, located on Shoshone and Núu-agha-tʉvʉ-pʉ̱ (Ute) lands. [Photo] Jeremiah Watt

ALPINIST 88 | WINTER 2024-25 | TAHOMA/MT. RAINIER | DENALI | GASHERBRUM III | BIBIRI | GREMO!Issue 88 features a Mountai...
12/13/2024

ALPINIST 88 | WINTER 2024-25 | TAHOMA/MT. RAINIER | DENALI | GASHERBRUM III | BIBIRI | GREMO!

Issue 88 features a Mountain Profile on Mt. Rainier by David Gladish, who considers the history of the influential mountain and how it has shaped those drawn to it, while Holly Yu Tung Chen, Chris Weidner and Cal’ Smith share stories of their own.

Elsewhere, Toranosuke Nagayama tells the story of a new generation of Japanese alpinists who set out this past May to complete an enchainment that was first attempted by the famous Giri-Giri Boys on Denali in 2008—but Nagayama and his two friends faced an additional obstacle when most of their gear was stolen before they reached the mountain. Plus, Tom Livingstone and Aleš Česen set out to answer a question: What would it be like to climb a technically difficult route at nearly 8000 meters?

Meanwhile, Derek Franz considers how to navigate the grey area where ethics and egos clash. Franz and Katie Ives share reading recommendations. Franz interviews Nina Williams, and Abbey Collins considers what “Porter Hangers” can tell us about the evolution of climbing in the Red River Gorge.

Ven Popov examines the two inner beasts driving his motivation after notching the first ascent of a Himalayan peak. Leath Tonino celebrates the approach trail. Chris Noble contemplates the meaning of adventure. Shara Zaia explores her complex identity as an Assyrian American and shares the origins of Cruxing in Color, a nonprofit she founded with Menesha Mannapperuma. James Lucas observes Shannon Joslin’s commitment to preserving Yosemite’s history and environment. Tami Knight illustrates best practices for pooping outside. And much more.

Find Alpinist 88 on newsstands, in our online store or subscribe at Alpinist.com/88

Cover: Ed Boulton hunkers down in a storm while climbing Mt. Rainier’s Willis Wall with Jim Wickwire, 1971. It was a harrowing experience. “I never climbed with Ed again, but I remember what he did to get me off Mt. Rainier,” Wickwire wrote in Addicted to Danger. “Ed Boulton saved my life.” [Photo] Jim Wickwire

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12/10/2024

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The annual Bozeman Ice Festival kicks off tonight, Tuesday, December 10, with a free Community Night hosted by the Ameri...
12/10/2024

The annual Bozeman Ice Festival kicks off tonight, Tuesday, December 10, with a free Community Night hosted by the American Alpine Club at 6 p.m. at the Lockhorn Cider House. The festival officially starts Wednesday, December 11, and continues through Sunday, December 15, with a variety of events, ranging from ice climbing clinics in Hyalite Canyon to entertainment in town, including presentations by top climbers, film screenings and parties. Many of the proceeds benefit a cost-sharing program between the Forest Service, Gallatin County and Friends of Hyalite that keeps the road into the canyon plowed and open through the winter. Other proceeds support the Gallatin National Forest Avalanche Center.


As far as this year’s BIF week, all the clinics are currently booked, but there is plenty of evening programming available. Films from Reel Rock and Kendal Mountain Film will be shown and presenters include Scott and Shayna Unger, Lindsey Hamm, Quinn Mawhinney, Sam Hennessey, Graham Zimmerman, Timmy O’Neill and Marcus Garcia, plus other performers such as the Bear Canyon Singers and Dancers.

For more information and a story about the historical significance of the cost-sharing program to keep the road open through the winter, visit https://alpinist.com/newswire/a-preview-of-the-28th-annual-bozeman-ice-fest/

Photos from previous Bozeman Ice Festivals courtesy of Bozeman Ice Festival.

Many of us are grieving the recent loss of loved ones this holiday. In this story from Alpinist 87—which is currently av...
11/27/2024

Many of us are grieving the recent loss of loved ones this holiday.

In this story from Alpinist 87—which is currently available on newsstands and in our online store—Laura Yale begins a journey to untangle a web of grief after being involved in an avalanche that killed Dan Escalante, a beloved member of her community in Colorado’s Elk Range in 2020. Yale explores the ways ancient cultures coped with the reality of loss, acknowledging the natural process of death, and brings the old wisdom to bear on her situation. The Green Man “is in the knowing that in the whites and greys and long nights of winter, green will one day emerge again,” she writes.

You can now read the story here: https://alpinist.com/features/the-green-man/

Did you know—only a small fraction of our many long-form stories from the print edition are ever uploaded to Alpinist.com. Be sure to pick up Alpinist 87 for all the goodness: Alpinist.com/87

[Photo] Dan Escalante in his element.
[Artwork] Alex Nabaum
yale

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