Snooker KH, 3750 Venture Drive, Duluth, GA (2026)

01/13/2026

🎱 A COMPLETE VISUAL MAP FOR POOL AIMING — TRAIN EVERY ANGLE ON THE TABLE 🎱
One of the fastest ways to improve consistency in pocket billiards is to stop practicing random shots and start training with structured positions across the entire table. This diagram does exactly that: it lays out a full set of fundamental aiming scenarios that help players develop confidence, accuracy, and adaptability from multiple angles, distances, and rail conditions.

The table is divided into ten numbered training positions, arranged along the cushions to simulate the most common situations you face in real games. Positions 3, 4, 5, and 6 represent classic rail or straight shots, where the object ball sits close to the cushion. These shots demand a stable cueing action and clean alignment, because even small steering errors are amplified when the ball is frozen to the rail. Mastering these positions trains you to keep your stroke straight and your tip delivery consistent under pressure.

Positions 1, 2, 7, and 8 focus on angled shots, both toward corner pockets and side pockets. These are where most players struggle, because accurate potting depends on correctly visualizing the contact point and applying the ghost-ball concept. Practicing these angles forces you to refine your perception of cut angles and teaches your eyes to trust geometry instead of feel. As the angle changes, so must your Aim Point, and this set of shots builds that awareness naturally.

Positions 9 and 10, located near the short rail, are designed to sharpen speed control and directional precision in tighter spaces. Shots from these areas punish poor pace and lazy alignment, making them perfect for developing touch and discipline. Learning to deliver the cue smoothly in these zones greatly reduces missed balls and scratches in match situations.

The arrows drawn in the diagram indicate the intended direction of the object ball, giving you a clear visual target for each shot. Equally important, the diagram shows the cue position and alignment for every scenario, helping players understand proper stance, cue direction, and body positioning relative to the shot line. This visual guidance removes ambiguity and makes practice more efficient.

The true value of this drill lies in repetition. By cycling through all ten positions regularly, players build strong muscle memory, learning how to adjust aim as distances change and angles tighten or open. When combined with a solid understanding of Aim Point (AP) and Contact Point (CP), these shots stop being isolated challenges and become part of a connected system. Over time, the table no longer feels unpredictable — it feels familiar.

This is not just a drill; it’s a foundation. Train these positions, and you’ll notice cleaner contact, calmer decision-making, and far greater confidence no matter where the balls end up.

🎱

01/13/2026

🎱 SEE THE COLLISION BEFORE IT HAPPENS 🎱
One of the biggest breakthroughs in cue sports is developing a visual understanding of how tip contact controls both balls after impact. This diagram offers exactly that: a clear, intuitive look at how different tip hits change the reaction of the object ball and the escape path of the cue ball. Once you grasp this, cue ball control stops being trial-and-error and becomes intentional.

Looking first at the reaction of the object ball, shown in the top row, we see how spin applied to the cue ball subtly but decisively alters the object ball’s path. In a center-ball hit (A), where no side spin is applied, the object ball travels straight along the collision line—pure, predictable, and textbook. However, in cases B and C, where left or right English is used, part of the cue ball’s side spin transfers to the object ball through what’s known as the gear effect. This transfer causes the object ball to deviate slightly from its natural line. While the deflection may look small, it becomes critically important on long shots or when shooting into tight pockets, where even a tiny angle change can mean the difference between made and missed balls.

The middle row, shown from a top-down perspective, explains what happens to the cue ball immediately after contact. The dashed arrows represent both the direction of motion and the rotational influence still acting on the cue ball. When side spin is applied, the cue ball doesn’t simply bounce away at a fixed angle—it reacts to the spin by altering its separation angle from the object ball. This means that left or right English affects the cue ball before it ever reaches a cushion, not just after. Understanding this is essential for advanced position play, because it explains why two shots with the same aim and speed can produce completely different cue ball paths simply due to spin choice.

The bottom row brings everything together by showing the actual tip contact points on the cue ball. In A (Center Ball), the tip strikes the exact center, producing natural roll with no added side effects. In B (High Left or High Right), the tip contacts the upper portion of the cue ball combined with side spin, creating a follow shot that continues forward while carrying lateral rotation. In C (Low Left or Low Right), the tip strikes below center with side spin, producing draw while still influencing the cue ball’s sideways behavior. These contact points are not just about follow or draw—they define how energy, spin, and direction are shared between the two balls at the moment of collision.

The real lesson here is simple but powerful: every tip hit sends instructions to both balls. The object ball listens to the collision and the transferred spin, while the cue ball responds to its remaining rotation and momentum. When players start seeing shots this way—cause and effect instead of mystery—control improves rapidly. This visual understanding is the bridge between knowing what spin does and knowing when and why to use it.

🎱

01/13/2026

🎯 WHY YOU MISS CUT SHOTS — EVEN WHEN YOUR AIM FEELS RIGHT 🎯
If you’ve ever stood over a shot thinking “I aimed perfectly… so why did it miss?” — this is the reason. It all comes down to one core geometric relationship that every great player understands: Aim Point (AP) vs. Contact Point (CP).

In a top-down view of the shot, the diagram reveals why cut shots are especially tricky for newer players. The Contact Point (CP) is the exact physical spot on the object ball that must be struck for the ball to travel in the intended direction toward the pocket. This point is fixed by geometry — it never changes. However, the Aim Point (AP) is not on the object ball at all. It is the point on the table that the center of the cue ball must travel toward. Here’s the critical insight most players miss: the center of the cue ball can never go directly to the Contact Point on a cut shot. Only the edge of the cue ball can touch CP. To make that edge arrive correctly, the center must be aimed somewhere else — that “somewhere else” is the Aim Point. This is the true foundation of the ghost ball concept, whether you visualize it consciously or not.

From the shooter’s view, the geometry becomes even clearer. The dashed line in the diagram represents the real aiming line — from your eyes, through the center of the cue ball, to the Aim Point on the table. You are not actually aiming at the Contact Point; you are aligning your body, cue, and vision along a line that passes through AP. The angle labeled A shows the separation between where you aim and where the object ball will travel. This separation exists because both balls have the same radius. As the cut becomes thinner, that offset grows larger, pushing the Aim Point farther away from the object ball. That’s why thin cuts feel uncomfortable and “wrong” even when the geometry is perfect.

Here’s the mindset shift that changes everything: you make the ball by hitting the Contact Point, but you aim by committing to the Aim Point. Once your brain accepts that these are two different jobs, cut shots stop feeling like guesswork. Your visuals become stable, your alignment improves, and consistency replaces luck. This isn’t a trick, a system, or a shortcut — it’s the raw geometry that every accurate shot is built on.

🎱 Understand this, and the table starts to make sense.

🎯

01/13/2026

🎱 In pocket billiards (Pool), one of the most important yet misunderstood skills is how to use Running English and Reverse English to control the cue ball after it contacts the cushion. Many players focus only on potting the object ball, but real consistency comes from understanding how side spin reshapes the rebound angle and determines where the cue ball will travel next.

When we talk about Running (Natural) English, we mean applying side spin that matches the cue ball’s direction of travel after contact with the object ball. In the diagram’s upper example, the player strikes the right side of the cue ball while pocketing the yellow 1-ball in the corner. As the cue ball reaches the rail, the running spin adds energy to the rebound, causing the angle to open wider than the natural, no-spin path. Instead of slowing down, the cue ball continues to “run” smoothly toward the end of the table, making it ideal for position play that requires long travel, flowing routes, or multiple-rail movement.

Reverse English, shown in the lower example with the blue 2-ball, works in the opposite way. Here, the player applies side spin against the cue ball’s natural direction of travel by striking the left side of the cue ball. When the cue ball hits the cushion, this reverse spin creates a checking effect: friction between the ball and the rail reduces forward momentum, narrows the rebound angle, and often causes the cue ball to slow dramatically or come back toward the center of the table. This type of spin is essential when you want to keep the cue ball in a controlled area, avoid over-running position, or prevent a scratch into a nearby pocket.

The diagram’s dashed line represents the cue ball’s natural path with no side spin, while the solid line shows the real trajectory once English is applied. This comparison makes one key truth clear: running English widens the angle, reverse English tightens it. Understanding this relationship is the backbone of position play in Pool. Whenever you need the cue ball to travel farther and open up the table, running English is your tool. Whenever control, precision, and safety are the priority, reverse English becomes your best option. Mastering the difference between these two spins transforms cue ball movement from guesswork into intention—and that’s where high-level Pool truly begins.

🎱

01/13/2026

🎱 DON’T SCROLL — THIS IS WHERE SYSTEM PLAY LEVELS YOU UP 🎱
If you already understand the 5-rail system…
👉 this advanced adjustment variant is what turns knowledge into domination on a 3-Cushion table.

When the object ball changes position, great players don’t panic —
they shift the formula 🔥

🔥 ADVANCED 5-RAIL SYSTEM (ADJUSTMENT VARIANT)

This variation helps you adapt instantly when the target ball moves, without reinventing the shot from scratch.

Let’s break it down clearly 👇

🧮 1️⃣ The Formula (Adjusted Calculation)

15 − 13 + 19 = 21

Compared to the previous diagram (Figure 25), the numbers evolve to match the new target position.

🟠 15 – Cue ball starting point
Still measured from the bottom long rail using the diamond system.

🔴 −13 – First rail contact (New)
The cue ball now hits the bottom short rail at point 13.
➡️ Increasing from 11 to 13 means the angle must open wider.

⚫ +19 – Adjustment value
A refined correction on the left long rail, compensating for the new geometry.

🔵 21 – Final target point
The cue ball reaches point 21 on the top short rail, then naturally exits toward the red ball.

📌 Same system.
📌 Different destination.
📌 Precise adjustment.

🎯 2️⃣ Ex*****on Specs (How to Play It)

🌀 Spin (Efecto) = 4
Maximum running english, same as the previous 5-rail system.
This heavy spin is essential to carry rotation across all cushions.

🔴 Cue Ball Path
• Initial contact with the red ball
• Bottom short rail
• Left long rail
• Top short rail
• Right long rail
• Final contact with the yellow ball

Every cushion works with the spin, not against it.

✨ Curve Effect — Still the Key Detail

You’ll notice the cue ball curves slightly right after impact.

This controlled swerve comes from:
✔ Heavy english
✔ Strong, committed stroke

It allows the cue ball to fine-tune its first rail angle, locking perfectly into the formula.

This is not accidental — it’s designed behavior.

🧠 3️⃣ Why Comparing Figures 25 & 26 Matters

Owning both diagrams teaches true system thinking:

🔁 When the final target shifts from 24 to 21
➡️ You simply adjust the first rail contact from 11 to 13

No guessing.
No panic.
Just progression.

This is how advanced players learn to slide the system across the table and adapt to any competitive layout.

🎱 REAL TAKEAWAY
Mastery in Carom 3-Cushion isn’t about memorizing shots —
it’s about understanding how formulas move together.

Save this.
Study it.
Apply it.

Because the table always rewards players who think in systems. 🔥

🎱🔥

01/13/2026

🎱 STOP SCROLLING if you love Carom 3-Cushion & Snooker Precision 🎱
This is NOT a lucky shot.
This is math, spin, and pure control coming together in one advanced system 👇

🔥 THE ADVANCED 5-RAIL SYSTEM IN CAROM 3-CUSHION 🔥
When the object ball is frozen to the long rail and the cue ball must travel multiple rails before impact, guessing is no longer an option.
That’s where this 5-cushion calculation system becomes a game-changer.
Let’s break it down in a clear, player-friendly way 👀

🧮 1️⃣ The Formula (Where the Magic Starts)
15 − 11 + 20 = 24
Each number has a real meaning on the table:
🟠 15 – Cue ball starting point
Based on the diamond system along the bottom long rail.
🔴 −11 – First rail contact
The cue ball strikes the bottom short rail at point 11.
⚫ +20 – Adjustment / transfer value
An intermediate reference on the left long rail, compensating for spin, speed, and angle.
🔵 24 – Final target point
The cue ball reaches point 24 on the top short rail, then naturally opens its path to hit the red ball hugging the long rail.
👉 No guesswork. Just structured calculation.

🎯 2️⃣ The Specs (How to Execute It Correctly)
🌀 Spin (Efecto) = 4
Cue tip placement around the 3 o’clock edge, producing strong running english.
This level of spin allows the cue ball to retain rotation across 4–5 rails.
🔴 Cue Ball Path (Red Line)
• Soft contact with the yellow ball
• Bottom short rail (11)
• Left long rail
• Top short rail (24)
• Right long rail
• Clean exit to the red ball tight on the cushion
Every rail interaction is intentional.

✨ 3️⃣ The Special Detail Most Players Miss
Notice the slight curve right after the cue ball hits the yellow ball.
This is not an error — it’s a controlled swerve.
💡 High spin + firm stroke =
✔ Subtle curve
✔ Adjusted entry angle
✔ Perfect alignment with the formula
This micro-curve helps the cue ball avoid obstacles and lock into the correct first-rail contact.

🧠 WHY THIS MATTERS
If you play Carom 3-Cushion seriously, this system teaches you how to:
✔ Control spin over long distances
✔ Predict cue ball behavior after multiple rails
✔ Turn “impossible” rail-frozen shots into repeatable patterns
This is the difference between hoping and knowing.

💬 Save this.
🎥 Study it.
🎱 Practice it.
Because at higher levels…
The table always rewards players who understand the numbers.

🎱🔥

01/13/2026

125 years ago
"On 15 April 1901, in the small town of Whitwell in Derbyshire, Joe Davis was born. He won the World Snooker Champs 15 times in succession and he was never beaten, on level terms, by anyone other than his brother Fred. Someone said 'Joe can make those balls anything but talk'."
(Snooker Heroes X)

01/13/2026

🎱 Did You Know?
Snooker was accidentally invented in Jabalpur, India by British Army Lt. Neville Chamberlain in 1875! 🇮🇳
But it took over 100 years for India to produce its first professional in the sport.
💬 Why do you think it took so long?

01/13/2026

🎱 WHEN THE TABLE LOOKS TOO LONG – LET THE SYSTEM DO THE WORK 🎱

As a professional snooker & carom player, I want to tell you something important:
👉 Great shots are not guessed. They are calculated.

📸 The image you’re looking at is a classic example of the 3-Cushion / Diamond System, used when the cue ball needs to travel almost the entire length of the table with accuracy.

🔍 What’s happening in this image?

At first glance, the shot looks impossible:

Long distance

Tight angles

Multiple cushions

No margin for error

But once you read the table correctly, everything becomes simple.

🧮 The core idea – Geometry, not magic

Look at the numbers:

25 – 10 = 15

This is not random.

✔ 25 → Starting reference point (cue ball line)
✔ 10 → Target adjustment based on object ball position
✔ 15 → Exact cushion exit point

👉 The cue ball follows a pre-calculated path, bouncing off cushions exactly where physics says it should.

📐 Why systems like this are so powerful

✅ Remove guesswork
✅ Increase long-shot confidence
✅ Make difficult positions feel routine
✅ Stay calm under match pressure

When your brain trusts the system,
👉 your stroke becomes free.

$In the diagram you see a shot off the spot and five different areas where the five fractional aims will be useful. Let’s...$

01/13/2026

In the diagram you see a shot off the spot and five different areas where the five fractional aims will be useful. Let’s consider the straight shot or 0 degree cut. How wide is that area? The pocket is two balls wide (more or less) and the two extreme arrival positions of the object ball are shown by the 2 ball and the 3 ball. If you draw straight lines from the centers of those balls back to the 1 ball, you get the angular width of the pocket. It is about 4 degrees. If the object ball is sent more than 2 degrees away from dead center of the pocket, it won’t go in. (Again, this is not perfectly accurate. From this approach angle, the pocket is larger for very hard shots, so the pocket size varies with the shot conditions. Pick your own number if you don’t like 4 degrees of pocket width.)

Where can the cue ball be in order to pocket a straight shot to that pocket off the spot? It is pretty obviously the red shaded area marked “0°”. If the cue ball is anywhere on the bottom/right side of the shaded area, with a perfect, full hit the object ball will pass over the position of the 2 ball. If the cue ball starts on the top/left side of the shaded area the cue ball will pass over the position of the 3 ball. If the cue ball is anywhere outside the red shaded area, a full hit won’t pocket the object ball.

The same argument applies to the other standard fractional cuts. It is not hard to see that all the triangular areas for the different cuts are 4 degrees wide. This means that the standard fractional cuts for a shot as hard as a spot shot cover only about 1/4 of the area of the table. The “good” triangles are 4 degrees wide and 15 degrees apart.

But it is a really, really bad idea to wed yourself to exact fractional ball hits. Just consider the straight shot. If the cue ball is on one edge of the red shaded area, and you use a true fractional aim, you will send the 1 ball all the way to the extreme side of the pocket. If your stroke makes a small error in that same direction, you will miss the shot. Since most of us make small errors most of the time (and large errors the rest of the time), you will end up missing about half of such shots.

The lesson from this is that the “good” triangular areas for the shot are actually considerably smaller. If you are willing to give up half of the allowed error to your aiming system, then the triangles will shrink to 2 degrees wide and the percent of the table that is covered by these fractional aims drops by a factor of two to roughly 1/8th or 12.5% of the table surface.

01/13/2026

Hey Snooker Family! 🎱🔥
Want to level up your position play like the pros?
Today I'm dropping one of the most powerful secrets in cue sports: The Legendary 30° Rule (aka Natural Angle Rule)!

This single physics trick has saved me on so many frames — it basically tells you exactly where the cue ball will go after contact when you're playing with natural roll.

And the crazy part? Over a huge range of cuts (from about ¼-ball to ¾-ball), the cue ball deflects at roughly 30 degrees from your original path. Mind-blowing consistency!
Here’s the breakdown in super simple terms:

¼-ball hit → wider cut (~48–49°), cue ball deflects ~27–30°
½-ball hit → classic 30° cut, cue ball goes almost exactly 30–34°
¾-ball hit → thin cut (~14–15°), cue ball still magically ~30°!

See how the angle stays almost the same across all three? That's why it's called the "magic 30°"!
Bonus trick most pros use: Make a peace sign ✌️ with your fingers to visualize it instantly on the table (shoutout to Dr. Dave for popularizing this gem).

Who's already using the 30° Rule in their game?
Or who's gonna test it tonight and report back? Drop your thoughts below — best stories get a shoutout in my next post! 💬
Tag a snooker buddy who NEEDS to see this!

🎱

01/12/2026

A small tip for anyone who loves cue sports 🎱

A lot of people think playing 8-ball on a snooker table is much harder — but here’s something you might not notice at first.
When you use American-size Aramith balls, the weight of the ball actually changes how the table reacts.

Shots feel more stable.
The cue ball travels differently.
Position play becomes easier than expected.

Once you recognize this, the game starts to make sense — and you’ll enjoy it a lot more.
The same tip applies when you switch to Chinese 8 Ball tables.

Try it yourself and feel the difference. Sometimes, understanding the table is more important than power.

Snooker KH

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