The Aristologist, Napier (2025)

03/03/2025

Pork belly, cabbage and rice in the style of something Asian. :”petite” Laurette Rosé 2023.
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Attempting to write this while having my ankles bitten by 7 week old puppies - it’ll be short.
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Pork belly scored, and gently pan fried in a cm of water until until the water gone and fat continued rendering for about 20mins. Then into a casserole with half a baby cabbage from garden in Mangatahi, a couple of peppers and enough liquid to cover the pork as far as the skin. Said liquid was soy, black vinegar, black pepper, Szechuan pepper, 13 spice, jaggery, chilli sauce and water. Into the oven 180C for an hour.
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Served with rice cooked with star anise and mandarin peel.
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Laurette rose “petite” : have reviewed this before and can’t find it - I’m sure it was a bit more “petite” than this one - which was not delicate, but more full-on phenolics and, perhaps it was the 29degree day, but I found it better adding a little soda water I.e. spritz.
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Deliciously good belly and the cabbage superb. Remaining cooking juices saved for another day.
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The puppies will get their own post tomorrow.

28/02/2025

Garbure; Extrait de Terre Gamay. 2023. Cotes du Tarn.
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Garden at Mangatahi producing tomatoes, beets and Cavolo Nero (and rapidly bolting). Spent the day removing plastic mulch from the vineyard area, as I look to sowing another before the vines arrive late September.
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So quick and easy Garbure. Simply layered ham, greens, cheese, bread, tomatoes and lots of chopped herbs - all covered with stock and baked. Normally add haricot or butter beans too, but not tonight Josephine. 160C for about 2 hrs. Always delicious and interesting.
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Extrait de Terre Gamay. Cotes du Tarn. Smooth, simple plenty of red fruit, a dust of tannins, nothing harsh - lovely - a red wine on training wheels for the uninitiated. $20-25 definitely recommend.
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Merlin was doggo.

26/02/2025

Duck breast, crisp roast potatoes, celeriac and Peacherine remoulade.
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Breasts from dusted with quatre epice and five spice, wrapped and into fridge 5 hrs. At dinner, scored, pan fried on skin abt 5-10min until fat rendering, turned a minute then into 180C oven 10mins.
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Celeriac slivered on my big old stainless French mandolin. Peacherine sliced by hand. Into a mixture of mayo, raspberry vinegar and maple syrup. 4hrs .
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Spuds peeled, cut, boiled to within an inch of their lives. Drained, cooled, into a 180C oven with hot fat. About 45min.
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Jus: caramel, raspberry vinegar, Seville orange, stock, reduced to perfection.
Plated. Delicious, and deliciously simple.
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An Albariño from Lisbon, (Casa Santos Lima 2021), left over from the previous nights pizza that I didn’t post. From - Rather delicious and definitely a family resemblance to the offerings - perhaps an uncle in a tweed jacket and a pipe.
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Grapes in the garden - a glut, as with peaches, Peacherine, feijoas, plums etc etc…. And figs soon.

22/02/2025

A birthday dinner for B’s bestie. Craggy Range Winery. Hawkes Bay. The most imposing, and beautiful winery in the Bay, seriously good wines and a seriously good restaurant under Casey McDonald.
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Kicked off with Tattinger and a brilliant, deliciously crisp focaccia smeared with oil, honey and butter.
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A “first” course - a garden medley in the spirit of Pierre Gagniere with pea falafel and cashew butter. Lovely crisp and scintillating flavours.
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Entree was stuffed quail breast (with the legs), roast apple and blue cheese within a pastry case. Excellent, gamey, complex.
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Craggy Range 2016 Syrah, simply ethereal - nothing disjointed, not simplistically fruit driven, but more an elegant stream of perfection that washes over the palate like a soothing balm. Basically I loved it.
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Main: Short rib, fork tender, topped with a gherkin, caper etc pesto and accompanied by a balsamic glaze, jus, beetroot and crisp Cavolo Nero chips (bit more than chips really). The beef and its jus were rich and were thankful for the soothing effect of nicely roasted potatoes and delicious brocolli in a sharp seedy dressing.
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By then we were full and declined the dessert menu - which I wasn’t too disapointed with given I don’t really have sweet tooth (not sure where that phrase came from - perhaps Elizabeth 1?). I would probably have gone for oysters or another first.
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Service was flawless, lovely staff who knew exactly what they were serving, we felt welcomed, looked after, and above all happy.
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All in all, a lovely evening - good food, wine service and company - Craggy and Casey McDonald lived up to their good name. Highly recommended.

22/02/2025

A beautiful Hawke’s Bay morning at Kokako vineyard, picking chardonnay grapes for the indefatigable Ollie Powrie. Destined to be turned into a top- flight chard for Chateau Garage.

The particular clone - 1066- is small, finicky and low yielding, not for the industrial glut grower where volume trumps quality. Hand picking is slow, with the little bunches taking time and patience. Sticky fingers and snips and the sweetest little orbs of flavour. I guess the brilliant flavour from this clone comes from the high skin / volume ratio but that is just a guess.

Then back to puppy day care ….. and this evening going to Craggy range winery for a dear friend’s birthday. That’s the Hawkes Bay for you!!

21/02/2025

It was my late mother in laws birthday. And - given her predilection to fizz and fries we went to Matisse wine bar. And yes we had fries and B a fizz - André Clouet Champagne - I had a sip and thought it deliciously interesting. Also had Korean meatballs which are brilliant.
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I had two glasses, a white and a red. Domaine Chantemerle 1er cru Chablis and a Costers del Priorat Tinto Pessarres (Carinyena and Garnatxa) - Spain. Both good choices I think. When Nadia (the wonderful Mrs Matisse) asked, I said they were very similar - and she thought I was nuts. But if you forget about pontificated aroma analysis - violets, pip fruit, and horses crotch etc, and step back a bit - the sensations of both are similar in my mind to Barbara Hepworth sculptures - organic curvaceous with no jagged edges. All of Hepworth’s sculptures are different, but all are similar. Same with these two wines - just a fine surface granularity to the otherwise smooth marble surface, from tannin, in the red and a slight uplifting edge of acidity in the Chablis. Both lovely pieces of - art.
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The BCs tackle stairs for the very first time.

20/02/2025

Pheasant meatballs, Cavolo Nero, tomato, pasta. : Vita Bianco 2023.: Portia.
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I didn’t quite know how this would come together until it did. The interesting thing about it was the use of vegetable juice instead of veg stock. Read on:-
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An onion, 10cm of leek, 2 carrots and a parsnip were juiced. The juice was gently strained and set aside. The dry pulp from the liquidiser was sautéed in butter then two cups of water added, then threw in some garden-grabbings of thyme, savory and parsley. Simmered 20 mins then strained. This rich stock was used to cook the pasta. Because the volume was low the pasta needed to be carefully stirred initially.
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Cubes of pancetta were fried in butter, added the meatballs (frozen and thawed leftovers from a few nights back), coloured nicely, chopped heritage tomato from , barely softened in the fat before adding the pure vegetable juice.
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The reduced vegetable stock from cooking the pasta also added and reduced to a sauce like consistency. Then added the pasta and gently amalgamated. Plated and yes delicious!
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The sauce was intense, far better than simple vegetable stock. My theory is that the juice that comes from the liquidiser carries water soluble flavour molecules. Then sauteeing the dry pulp in butter extracts the fat soluble molecules which are carried off in the stock. Blended together it is very very tasty.
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Vita Bianco. 2023. An organic fizz made from Riesling and gewurztraminer by Vita Wines (Will Lyons-Bowman) in Waipara valley, North Canterbury. . Bought from . Unfined, unfiltered and with a crown seal. Not sure how Nat the pet was but it was perfect on a hot evening in Napier. Ice cold, gentle bubbles with a grateful acidity and a grapefruit quaffability. A characteristic naturality to it. $28-33 and I’d definitely buy again. An interesting and crowd pleasing natural wine for hot days. Highly recommended. (There is also a Rosato - must try).
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A hot border collie - Portia.

19/02/2025

One of my daughters is terrified of clowns - she regards them as creatures of evil. So to in world politics, someone who was regarded simply as a clown is now being revealed as an evil clown and under whose spell his once lauded country has become the sadly spiralling vortex within a cesspool of guns, god and greed. So many people around the world affected by this Lovecraftian monster.
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And in that mood - please unfollow me as you wish - here’s last night’s dinner.
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Moules Marinieres; Crispy Rosti bars and spicy dip.: Chateau Grand Moulin, Vieilles Vigne.
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Playing with the idea of mussels and fries.
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Shallot, garlic sweated in butter, added a dry white wine (not the one shown), chilli, tomato paste, and mussels. (Discarded 25% - that were either broken, or failed to close with a few sharp taps, or on de-bearding. Perhaps they need to be better sorted if possible . Added a good blob of creme fraiche and reduced sauce while plating mussels.
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4 potatoes grated, cooked in boiling water for 5 mins, strained, cooled and formed into thick wide bars. Drizzled with oil and roasted at 180 for about 45 mins - turning once. Dip, simply mayo, gherkins, ketchup, chili - blitzed.
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Deliciously good - mussels lovely, spicy, and sauce spoonfully soupy. Rosti crisp with melting interiors.
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Old, 50yr vines in the Chateau Grand Moulin - a mix of Grenache, Vermentino and Maccabeau. From corbieres in the Languedoc. Mid $20s. How to describe? An unusual white wine. All of the reviews suggest fruity, floral, blah blah as if it was a pretty wine - it isn’t. It’s like a swarthy weather-beaten French peasant with a tan and the gift of the gab. My first impression was this must have been a hot year, the phenolics are up there and so is the abv at 14%. Definitely not a white wine for children, but interesting and discussion worthy. The term “winey” sounds self evident but that’s what it is. Complex, mouth filling, rich, balanced and excellent with the mussels. It felt old - but that is purely psychological I guess.
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Angelic puppies fast asleep. If only humans were more like dogs, the world would be a better place.

18/02/2025

Spinach fettuccini, Cavolo Nero and hazelnut sauce with roasted tomatoes. Cecilia Brut - Allan Scott, Marlborough.
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Luscious! Using up left over sauce from 2 days ago, and a glut of little yellow and pear shaped green tomatoes planted at Mangatahi, plants originally bought from .
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Tomatoes halved, sprinkled with chopped garlic, salt, sugar, pepper and olive oil. Into a 160C oven for 20-30 mins.
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Sauce was made by sautéing onion in butter, adding chopped Cavolo Nero, wilting and then blitzing with ground hazelnuts and milk. Added brioche crumbs to give a good consistency. Simmered 5 mins.
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Fettuccini boiled, strained, some of the water added to the sauce, all slopped around a bit. Plated. Luscious!!!
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Cecilia Brut. Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. Early $20s - extraordinarily good value fizz - pip fruit and a bit of brioche, little bubbles and no bitterness. Nicely balanced, and very easy on the wallet. Superb value unless you want the overvalued snob appeal of a champagne - Pity it’s difficult to decant good fizz into a pricier bottle - not impossible though.

17/02/2025

Wine club evening hosted by the incomparable Peter and Paul of Hawthorne House, Hastings .
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An evening of Spanish food and wine within the historic homestead, and surrounded by a decor of superlative taste.
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Little tapas of Spanish bruschetta, with ice cold Oveja Blanca, a dry floral muscat that is addictively refreshing - highly recommended. A red version is at which is also damn good. Then a lovely palate filling white from Robeiro, “Gotas de Mar” 100% Godello - perfect crunchy acidity enveloped by fruit in a must try Spanish white. Recommended.
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Delicious baked fish with a kick of heat from crisp chilli coupled to a chicken paella, deconstructed with ad lib prawns and chorizo, and a memorably gorgeous bean, tomato and beetroot salad. These with three reds, Valdepalacios Rioja Tempranillo, and Rioja Vega - both good value easy drinking Tempranillos - plenty of fruit with gentle tannins and food companion acidity. A Malbec from Peru - Vittoria Reserva, despite pre-opening anxiety turned into a swan. Rich, opulent, smooth and lingering with a prune-like gentle down. Excellent - from .
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A perfect Basque cheesecake and strawberries with a cool Valdespino El Candado Pedro Ximene finished the evening. A lovely pairing of a non cloying cheese cake with the beautifully balanced raisiny nectar.
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A superb evening in wonderful company, pampered by brilliant food and wine, in a historic Hawkes Bay homestead. It doesn’t get much better than that!

16/02/2025

Venison back steak, pheasant meatballs, pasta, carrot and parsnip with a Cavolo Nero and hazelnut sauce. Luzon Monastrell.
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Had a food writer friend for dinner and thought I’d redo and rearrange a couple of things from the past week.
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Amuse - fish paste with fennel flower and harissa. Blitzed two cans of sardines in tomato sauce with one can of anchovies, some chilli sauce, pepper and placed in a jar. Smeared on molasses bread toast.
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Venison SV with Marsala, sage and butter, 54C 2 hrs, then seared in butter.
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Confit carrots and parsnips - 3hrs in paper and foil with butter, creme fraiche, honey and sage leaves.
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Casareccia pasta intended as being similar to the vegetables in size and texture. Boiled without salt 8-10mins.
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pheasant left overs chopped and mixed with breadcrumbs, egg, quatre epice. Balled. Poached in reducing stock then refrigerated before pan frying with venison.
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Ground hazelnuts blitzed with sautéed onion, cloves and Cavolo Nero, added brioche crumbs, salt, pepper and the juices from the sous vide venison.
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Jus - pheasant bones in pressure cooker with sauteed onion and chicken stock - 30min. Reduced to perfection.
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Luzon Organic Monastrell, Spain. -Ruby and red fruits, hint of cherries. The immediate mouthfeel is assertive rather than totally smooth and this is affirmed by an emerging “grip.” Not entirely balanced, with acidity needing a good food pairing - which it got. A bit upstaged by the beautiful rich textures and flavours of the main dish. But OK. Good value and Suckling’s 90 is about right.
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Gorgeous dinner, a winter’s feast on a drizzly Hawkes Bay evening - nights getting darker meaning either earlier dinner, or suboptimal lighting for pics.
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Bosie, our largest tabby cat, had to go to the vets after a cat fight with next door’s tabby. Other kids doing well.

14/02/2025

Valentines Day - Pheasant, Cavolo Nero bread sauce, Roast Gaufrette potatoes, jus; Devotus Single Vineyard Reserve Pinot Noir@, 2022.
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Wild pheasant was brined 6hrs, then given a carapace of butter and panko crumbs over the breast. Roasted 220C reducing to 150 fan.
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Onion sautéed in butter, added chopped Cavolo Nero, and, when bright green blitzed with ground hazelnuts. Added milk and crumbed brioche, simmered for 15 mins, a little honey, salt and pepper.
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Potatoes Gaufretted with mandolin, stacked and drenched in duck fat - roasted 160 C for 1 hour.
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Sauce - butter, onion, carrot, grapes, honey, quatre epicés, red wine, good stock, pepper, salt.
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Lovely rich meat, nicely cooked breast under its protective covering. Bread sauce stunning!
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Devotus Reserve Pinot Noir 2022. Transparent ruby with garnet lights, pretty, red berries, beeswax, smooth, some acidity and gentlest tannins. Elegant, refined, young, petite, lingering. Perfect with the pheasant, balancing the gaminess of the bird and rich sauces, to give a deliciously clean finish.
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Like ducklings, at Mangatahi.

13/02/2025

Pork, sage and ricotta on endive. Confit carrots and beans. Black peach and ice cream. : Dr Morgenzon DMZ Stellenbosch Chenin Blanc. 2024.
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Leftover bits and pieces, fruit falling from the trees.
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I had some pork mince that I’d made hamburgers out of yesterday (didn’t post sorry). Blitzed half of it with an egg and ricotta, sage, salt, pepper, chilli sauce. Mixed it with the mince. Halved the endive and moulded the pork on top. Egg wash and breadcrumbed. Into the oven with a bit of stock. 180C about 30mins.
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Carrots wrapped in paper with butter, creme fraiche, honey, pepper and salt. Foiled. 140C 3 hrs. Juices decanted off.
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Juices from around endive and carrots, amalgamated, a bit of white wine and reduced to a sauce.
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Excellent, lovely flavour and texture to the pork, bitterness from the endive in the sauce brilliant and the carrots delicious. Pleased with that one.
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South African chenin Blanc 2024. About $25-30. Pale yellow and complex (maybe pip fruit, but hot climate feel) - into the mouth and an immediate sense of relief that it isn’t a dud. Robust but not tubby, instead, a tingling, saliva-producing acidity tips the balance in the direction of crisp longevity. Like a splash of cold water on a bleary eyed morning after. A cracker - definitely recommended. Difficult to know who wouldn’t like this one.
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Rupert playing with his children.

10/02/2025

Beef cheek garlic, harissa and tomato sausage (with peas), butter beans, Cavolo Nero and tomato. : Poggio Anima “Belial” Tuscan Sangiovese.
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Fiddling with bought sausage. The beef cheek sausages from , I think, are very good - flavoursome, made with real meat without the crap fillings beloved of supermarkets and profiteers. Here I wanted to turn them into tomato sausages - something rarely seen in NZ but delicious, and a remembrance from a childhood on a forgotten side of the planet.
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5 sausages de-cased, mixed with harissa, tomato paste, chopped herbs - mint and sage - pepper, then made into a single log- rolled in plastic wrap (tightly), pierced a few times, then vacuum sealed and sous vide 54C for 2 hrs. At serving, quickly browned on the surface.
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A head of garlic sauteed in olive oil, added chopped Cavolo Nero, wilted, then added butter beans (tinned - washed) and a large red heritage tomato (cut into 8 pieces) - cooked gently with thyme, salt, pepper and a bit of jaggery…. That’s all, no liquid, only that from the tomatoes. Plated.
Delicious - sausage as intended, firm meaty tomatoey, garlicky. Beans and tomatoes, nice gentle and with a freshness from the barely softened tomato.
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Poggio Anima Sangiovese from Tuscany. Chan and wine orbit score it well. Ruby, cherries and something more complex. In the mouth a grip that says food and beyond that is mute. It’s ok at around $20 but nothing to write home about - the marketing “story” about fallen angels (Belial) and insertion of the words “Super Tuscan” (it isn’t one) as well as a cool label are more interesting than the wine. But don’t get me wrong - it’s not bad, but it’s not super, and any lawless fallen angel has zero relevance to the wine, only the marketing department. Take it to a barbecue - burnt sausages would be fine with it, but the sous vide tomato sausage was in a separate class.
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Magical Merlin, so named because of strange white alchemical symbols on his coat, very cuddly and not a fallen angel.

08/02/2025

Tomato not a pizza - but similar. Kokako Farms Uc***lo Arneis.
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A punnet of delicious heritage tomatoes from - it was to be either some sort of tart or pizza. But after having a morning coffee I forgot to get some pastry from vetro, next door. Pizza therefore seemed the likely result. So made an 80% hydration dough with a dollop of molasses added for luck, about 10am, packed up the kids in crates, sunscreen etc and spent a couple of hours at Mangatahi. … where I forgot to pick some Cavolo Nero intended for the “pizza”.
Arrived home at 3.30pm, dough had risen, bubbly etc and at that moment the idea came to me to not have an edge to the pizza (considered by artisans to be the most important part) and, I decided against kneading the / stretching the dough. I simply poured it out onto an oiled sheet of baking paper and studded it with tomatoes, tomatillos (from garden - I remembered those) and blobs of ricotta, topped with littler blobs of harissa or anchovy paste. Salt, pepper, a sizzle of olive oil, and onto a preheated 220degC pizza stone. 10 minutes later drizzled with a little vinaigrette, cut, plated and eaten with gratitude and pleasure. Thoroughly delicious version of pizza, not a crumb or crust left for our kids (🐾) which irritated them somewhat. The dough was lovely, not crisp, more like soft molasses bread infused with tomato juice, tons of flavour and a sharpness from the dressing. Just lovely!!
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Kokako Farms Uc***lo Aneis NV. Pip fruit (a bit) complex autumnal flavours, refreshing and insanely good value at $19.99 - I’d suggest buying a dozen if I didn’t consider doing it myself and I’m not sure how many are left! Highly recommended at the price….
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Littlest kids loaded into the truck for the trip to the farm.

07/02/2025

21 day aged rib-eye steak, marrow, beef cheek sausage, “fries.” Fleurie “Les Moriers”, Domaine Chignard. 2020.
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From of havelock north, the Fleurie, and next door, at some aged rib eye and a couple of beef cheek sausages.
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Marrow from the garden: sliced off about 10cm - deseeded. Removed the casings from the sausage and added peas, pepper, harissa and golden raisins. Stuffed the marrow and added tomato halves at each end. Drizzled with chicken stock (day before), and olive oil, covered and roasted 60min at 160C fan. Removed cover after 30min - then basting occasionally.
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Ribeye sous vide with thyme and butter at 54dec C for 1.75 hrs. Then seared and basted in butter.
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Potato chips from leftover “Janssen’s Temptation” were roasted with a drizzle of oil until rustically browned.
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Reduced fermented garlic honey and apple syrup added to chicken stock and sous vide juices, added crushed cooked pumpkin for body - reduced further until perfect - strained.
Plated.
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Gorgeous. In two minds whether to stack or separate the steak from the marrow. But worked very well, delicious combination of flavours and textures - sausage stand-out good.
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Fleurie “Les moriers” damn delicious Gamay. Blackberry crumble made from silk - gentlest tannins and good length. One of those bottles that restore your faith in wine. Difficult to know how anyone could dislike this drop - red wine on training wheels.
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Hector : I love his blaze. Just hit 2Kg.

06/02/2025

Worth reading: Inspired by a dish of spuds, sprats, onion and cream, posted by from a recipe by of a Scandinavian Christmas dish - Janssen’s Temptation. Unfortunately I had no scandy sprats - not available in NZ. And doubly unfortunate had no double cream or onion of a reasonable size. What I did have however was left over chicken and a leek, , and from that I felt like chicken, leek and tarragon pie. But I had no tarragon - however I did have a bolted Florence fennel from my garden in Mangatahi, which is vaguely tarragony. So what the hell does that have to do with Mr J’s temptation? Well consider this a mish mash of that, the chicken and leek pie and macaroni cheese (without cheese or macaroni).
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Remains of chicken separated into meat and bones - latter for stock, former for this dish.
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The Florence fennel - bulb and stem - and one carrot went through a juicer. About 200ml of murky brown fluid.
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Leek chopped and slowly simmered in 40gr butter - 30mins.
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Butter from the leeks strained off - added half a tablespoon flour and made a bechamel (strictly it’s not a bechamel) with the fennel / carrot juice. Boiled and added a large blob of creme fraiche.
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Into a dish I placed a layer of chip-cut potato, then chicken, then leek, then more potato, chicken, leek, and a final layer of potato. Poured over the fennel and carrot veloute (perhaps a better term), some breadcrumbs and into a 180C oven (fan) for an hour.
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Actually gorgeous everything that comfort food should be. Deliciously complex sauce, chip-crisp top and gooey interior. Well worth playing with.
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More black peaches with creme fraiche tinctures with star anise. Also delicious.
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Chateau de Trignon, Côtes de Rhône 100% Rousanne. - straw - complex pip-fruit, and a rich honeyed “sweetness” that demanded the bottle go back into the freezer for another 15 mins. Not really sweet but its body gave that impression. A simple, easy drinking drop, good with the chicken. Late $20s and about right at that.
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Eleanor surrounded by wild animals - Bosie (cat) is very tolerant.

06/02/2025

Simple dinner: Roast chicken, vegetables and crisp roast potatoes: Black peach crumble. Castello Di Torre in Pietra Vermentino. 2022.
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I was a bit slack - didn’t brine the chicken, and just sat it on a bed of onions, peas and carrots, a bit of stock, olive oil over the chicken. 180C until done. Poured off the juices, seasoned and used as gravy.
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Agria potatoes cut into large chips and boiled 30min until falling apart, carefully drained - cooled - and into a pan of hot chicken fat. 180C turned a few times - all up about 45-60 min.
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“Black” peaches falling off our tree - a spoon of streusel topping and a smaller spoon of creme fraiche on each. Grape juice (from our under-ripe vines) poured under. Baked 180 20min.
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Roast chook etc - delicious - potatoes like crisp obsidian.
Peaches brilliant - perfect quantity and better than an all-in crumble I think.
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Vermentino from and imported by - lovely clean, dry but fruity number, no hard edges, smooth body and nice balance. Good value Italian dry white.
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Puppies first day out in the garden - behind bars - they were underwhelmed.

The Aristologist

03/03/2025

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