04/12/2024
In Focus: Funding Case Studies | Disposal of Fullness : SHARON KELLY OUTLINES A NEW BODY OF WORK CREATED WITH AN ARTS COUNCIL OF NORTHERN IRELAND SIAP AWARD.
Over the past ten months, I have been developing a new body of work, supported by a Major Individual Award (SIAP) from the Arts Council of Northern Ireland (ACNI). This award, given in recognition of contribution to creative life in Northern Ireland, is the highest value awarded to artists in Northern Ireland: £15,000. The award supported the purchase of materials, equipment, services, the buying of time for research, concentrated development, and the production of a body of work.
‘Disposal of Fullness’ was the phrase around which my ideas have evolved. The term references a process in dressmaking of easing or gathering in fabric as a way of adjusting or reducing garments. I have been interested in garment construction, patterns and sewing processes since a teenager in the 1970s, when dressmaking was still on the school curriculum. Over the last five years, it has reemerged both in imagery and construction processes, as I developed sculptural pieces exploring fragility and resilience of mind and body. Ideas embedded within ‘Disposal of Fullness’ relate to female experience, control and constraint, the older woman, and life experience – and of course, themes of fragility, perseverance and resilience are still paramount.
Sharon Kelly, Shell, 2024, wire, sewing pattern paper, mannequin arm, wax, 100 x 70 x 28 cm; photograph by Simon Mills, courtesy of the artist.
This was an opportunity to undertake research in London’s Victoria and Albert Museum, where I explored historical costumes, past dress codes and behaviours – for example, how to handle and control the fullness of a skirt. During the development period, back in the studio, the work expanded organically and instinctively in various directions, connecting the drawing aspect of my practice with three-dimensional work. I tested drawing surfaces and processes, utilising drafting film and, crucially, began to use sewing pattern tissue paper. This old, yellowed and extremely fragile tissue paper became a significant medium with which I created an over-sized imaginary skirt shape by collaging pattern shapes, securing and bolstering them by overlapping and stitching.
I then ‘traced’ the outline of this large shape onto drafting film – a semi-transparent, but robust material. I used hand drawing and rulers to create lines and markings based on sewing pattern construction lines across this outline and, over a period of weeks, I added many more connecting lines, which populated the entire shape. The 2D work really benefitted from this crisscrossing of drawing and sewing processes; of tracing, cutting and altering shapes.
Related to these ideas, I created a set of female heads, based on drawings of women striking demure poses, painted in bold, flat, red gouache. With assistance from Seacourt Print workshop in Bangor, I developed screenprints of four of these for printing onto paper and textile. The textile prints were used in a sort of patchwork process to create an ‘upside down’ skirt, fixed with an embroidery hoop at one end and suspended from a fishing net.
The 3D work sprang from the research and development period and was based on plans of historical dress forms and written notes relating to the postures and bodily stances recommended for women in past eras. Several large skirt-like forms, around two metres in height, were fabricated from uncoated raw steel and ‘dressed’ with a veil of collage, using sewing pattern pieces or stiffened organdie, and stained using a Japanese tataki-zomé or ‘flower pounding’ technique, in which plant colour is transferred onto paper or fabric by hammering. I worked in the County Armagh countryside to collect wildflowers to stain lengths of organdie. I used my own body shape as a template to paint female shapes in sepia and red-toned ink onto the fabric used to dress the metal structures.
Sharon Kelly, Sack, 2024, screen printed nylon, thread, embroidery hoop, fishing net; 143 x 60 (diam) x 186 cm, Veils, 2024, stiffened organdie, ink, pencil, wooden rods, each 216 x 122 cm; photograph by Simon Mills, courtesy of the artist.
Torso forms have been created from wire, Fosshape, a heat mouldable fabric, and wax – entirely new techniques for me. A set of used walking frames that have been drastically elongated, so as to render them useless, offer a myriad of possibilities for further development, display and presentation at some future point.
This body of work was led very much by instinct and feeling, tapping into ideas relating to women’s lives that are so often ‘put on hold’ or embedded in someone else’s story. The work also speaks to circumstances where life has taken its own path; where traces of experience stain or remain; where plans may have been imagined but never realised, or remain unfinished, unfulfilled.
The beauty of the sewing process is very much tied up with imagined potential, and a possible coming into being – a flat shape becoming a real object. I wanted the work to speak through the language of sewing and making. Threads are left hanging, imagined shapes are outlined, points of reference or landmarks are offered. Already marked, fragile, used paper has been mended and restored yet remains precarious, and all material choices are resonant.
Sharon Kelly is an Irish artist whose work encompasses drawing, painting, print, installation, sculpture and moving image. She is based at QSS Studios, Belfast, and County Armagh.
sharonkellyartist.com
Source
http://dlvr.it/TGZp8n