22/12/2025
Despite significant Indian cultural and religious influences that shaped Southeast Asian civilisation, Khmer jewellery cultivated a distinctive identity through exceptional craftsmanship and refined design. Our comprehension of this sophisticated art form derives principally from its meticulous depiction in stone sculptures, temple bas-reliefs and historical chronicles, including those of the erudite 13 century Chinese traveller Chou Ta-Kuan.
Within Khmer society, jewellery functioned as an eloquent symbol of status and divine authority. Royalty embraced the Indian conception of the bejewelled Buddha to elevate their station to that of a living deity, thereby establishing the devaraja (god-king) doctrine that epitomised Khmer kingship. Fashioned from gold and embellished with pearls and semi-precious stones through sophisticated techniques such as casting and repoussé, these treasures served as crucial visual records of the civilisation's growing prosperity and refined aesthetic sensibility.
The evolution of these sacred adornments can be traced through distinct historical periods. The Pre-Angkor period (1st to 8th century) is renowned for producing jewellery of unparalleled intricacy, with excavations at sites like Oc-eo unearthing gold beads, rings and pendants of a fineness that later periods arguably did not surpass. Subsequently, the early Angkor period reveals a distinct Javanese influence—a consequence of historical conquests in the late 8th century. This is evidenced by the assimilation of Indonesian motifs in artefacts, such as gold diadems decorated with flame patterns, which are illustrated in the vast bas-reliefs at major temples like Angkor Wat and the Bayon.
Read Theresa McCullough's full article, "Gold Jewellery: Pre-Angkor and Angkor Civilisations of Cambodia" for more insights, in the March-April 2000 issue of Arts of Asia, available at artsofasia.com/back-issue.
Pictured: A gold cast and chased diadem, set with Rubies and a rock crystal, and topped by five flame motifs, Pre-Khmer, Ta Keo region, late8th/early 9th century. Diameter 8 cm. Courtesy of Danart, London