It’s Snooze HQ here. I just can’t get the staff today! Must be the low pressure! Anyone else feeling like having a duvet day?
I went for a walk up to Selworthy Beacon yesterday then saw this lovely 360 by @shaun.g.davey - it’s utterly stunning up there at the moment. And the belties - stars of our summer cover from @hindon_farm - are looking magnificent too! There are skylarks everywhere (don’t forget it’s dogs on short leads season on any open access ground) and if I’m not much mistaken it’s a bumper foxglove year?!
My walks are drenched in skylark song at the moment. It’s the best sound. Ali Pegrum from @stockham_farm has been enjoying the same soundtrack, as shown here. This might be my favourite sound of June. What is yours?
From @theporlockpippin
65. Dunkery is one of the great national Beacons of England. It was for centuries the beginning of a signal system, a chain used to send warnings with fire at night or smoke by day, warnings that an enemy was approaching, that invasion was imminent or had started.
At times of national emergency, Beacon Keepers were appointed to keep watch. Messengers on horseback, called Hobilers, were also on stand-by and the alarm was sent both visually with the lighting of the beacon, and verbally with the hobiler galloping down the line to the next beacon with the news, which was then passed on from one to the next all the way back to London. The Hobilers were so-named because their horses were hobbled to prevent them from straying whilst waiting.
The last recorded use of beacons came in 1690, when a hostile French fleet was anchored off Torbay and the hilltops were finally set alight. Then, during the Napoleonic Wars (1803-15) some of the ancient Beacon sites were reused but as signal sites with the Admiralty building an inland chain of telegraph stations using lamps with shutters. A look at the map will reveal many hills with the name Beacon, including our own Martinhoe Beacon, the site of an old Roman fort and believed to be a beacon used by them to communicate with Wales. Then in the second world war all church bells were silenced, only to be rung when an invasion had started.
Beacons have also been used at times of national celebration, the most recent being Queen Elizabeth’s coronation in 1952. Jim Sanders remembers “There was a big bonfire built at the top of Dunkery. People told one another it was there and we all went in the night. Thousands went up. There were bonfires at high points everywhere on the hills. Wales you could see bonfires.”
📸 1 The 1935 Dunkery Silver Jubilee beacon.
2 Constructing the 1911 Dunkery beacon for the coronation of George V.
3 The finished beacon ready for 60 ga
Morning all. This comes from @theporlockpippin David Ramsay’s No.64 post - memories from The Valley of Rocks Hotel (don’t miss his Unforgotten Exmoor books, available from unforgottenexmoor.com):
“I made porridge for of Queen of the Netherlands, Queen Wilhelmina. I was on reception one afternoon, no other staff on. She sent down a message - could she have a bowl of porridge? Me? I’d never made porridge in my life! Hadn’t got a clue, and it all stuck to the bottom of the pan, so I scraped it off, put it through a sieve and sent it up. A little later I got a message back “Best porridge I’ve ever tasted!”
Sonia Squire continues: “My mother was born in Wales. At the age of 16 she caught a paddle steamer across to Lynmouth and looked for work, ending up as chambermaid at the Valley of Rocks Hotel. Her main job was to empty the chamber pots and wash them out. That’s where she met my dad who was the night porter there, and they soon married. I was born in 1930. Then, soon as I myself had left school I got a job there too, but on reception. Second generation of my family working at The Valley of Rocks Hotel”
Queen Wilhelmina was one of many illustrious guests visiting Lynton and Lynmouth. Earlier, as rich tourists started arriving in private horse-drawn carriages, the two principal hotels would watch the top of Countisbury Hill through telescopes. They’d rush a post boy with extra horses to help the carriages up the hill, and so to their own establishment rather than that of their competitor. Later, as motor cars started arriving, garages were opened, although many of the early cars had to be taken up on the cliff railway as they couldn’t manage the last steep hill. When Queen Wilhelmina visited she and her whole entourage took over the entire hotel. Later in life she became the world’s first female dollar billionaire.
🖋️ In conversation with Sonia Squire (nee Way) May 2024.
📸 1 Exterior of the Vall
Another gem from David Ramsay @theporlockpippin
62. Lillian Moffat’s family harvested bark as a sideline to their farming - early diversification. “Dad used to have the rights from the Blathwayt estate to take down sections of standing oaks from the very steep area between the farm and the sea. Brother Fred would cut these down and then, using a special tool, twist the bark off in sections. As a child I would help by gathering up these sections of bark and lean them upright to dry off. I received a little pocket money for this. We’d load them onto a cart and take them down to the tannery where they were used in the tanning process.”
On the coast path it is still possible to see many of the Sessile oaks, now grown-out and multi-stemmed, originally coppiced for their bark. Interestingly these are often considered the remnants of the charcoal industry rather than that of the Porlock Tannery, which used vast quantities over the two hundred years it existed.
Founded in the early 1600s the Tannery was situated in the middle of the village opposite the Castle Hotel. Sections of woodland, known locally as a “rap of wood” were coppiced in the spring and the stumps left to re-grow. The bark was stripped off, dried, and then weighed by the cart load at the entrance to the Tannery. It was stored in huge sheds and then ground up and added to the water in the tan pits where hides were left to soak for about a year. During that time the tannin from the oak seeped into the pores of the skin, replacing the water with natural preservative. It was not pleasant living near a tannery; the petrifying hides in the pits stank and there was continual smoke from the fire in which the spent bark was burnt. The Tannery finally closed in the early 1930s.
📸 1The Bark House at the Porlock Tannery
2 bark stripping tool
3 bundles of bark being delivered
4 weighbridge at the entrance to the tannery
5 the tan pits
6 Flesher at work within the tannery
Photo 1 cou
This is from David Ramsay @theporlockpippin
Two gates hung together in parallel, on opposite hanging posts, and closed without fastenings - such was Brendan Two Gates. When the wind blew, it would open one but keep the other firmly closed. The lack of fastenings made it easy to pass through on horseback without having to dismount.
The Brendon road crossed the common and was the least steep route into Lynton, and so became increasingly popular as the area was developed. During the Depression the government made funds available to generate work, and it was decided to widen and improve this road. With only one man - yes just one - registered as unemployed in the area, the result was large numbers of men coming in looking for work, with the vast majority of them actually walking in from Cardiff. Over three years they were employed on a casual basis, living in hutted camps which followed the road as it progressed across the moor. These camps consisted of a kitchen hut with cooking utensils, tables and forms, and two separate dormitory huts. Each man was supplied with a bed (or boards), a straw mattress or palliasse, a pillow, and three blankets. There was also a drying hut which was almost always in constant use.
Many problems were encountered. There was no water high on the common and the steam rollers had to continually trundle down to the valleys in order to fill up. Unfortunately the gradient on the return journey caused the water to spill out and extinguish the fire, so they had to return in reverse gear, which was incredibly slow. There was also little suitable stone on the moor and this all had to be brought in and broken by hand down to the three inch gauge required. The weather on the high moor was also extremely cold and wet, with the District Surveyor writing on one occasion, “Some days it was too cold for many of the men to work, and on the 27th of January, while paying the rent, the ink in my fountain pen froze.”
The road took three years to comple
It must be true then: summer IS coming. Swallows spotted in the vale posted by @discover_porlock - have you seen one yet? Have a lovely week everyone!
Amidst this agriculturally challenging if picturesque weather, may your evening be as cosy as a long-tailed tit building its perfect nest! Film by Andy Gassant. Wishing everyone a safe and happy Easter weekend from Exmoor Mag x
Wishing everyone a happy St Patrick’s Day! Here is something utterly inspiring from @bbcdevon to make you feel uplifted today.
The flushing of the inner harbour down at the Weir filmed by @shaun.g.davey
The owner of Fenton-oh-Jesus-Christ would like to remind us all that we are now well into the dogs on leads season on access land.
It’s 1 March to 31 July. Short leads. Stay on the paths. Etc. Some people do not know this. I’ve seen loads of dogs off leads up on the Quantocks this week. Sad face. I’ve also seen loads of skylarks. Happy face.
Nobody comes to our pages for arguments - least of all me (life is too short, let’s all be lovely to one another) - and so I actively avoid all of that nonsense; this is just a reminder, which we share every year, courtesy this time of an old classic. Have a lovely day. X
https://www.exmoor-nationalpark.gov.uk/exmoor-for-everyone/out-and-about-essentials/exmoor-for-dogs
What’s your favourite birdsong? Here is a Wednesday wren from @anke_kneifel 🥰
Would you like to advertise in the Summer Issue of Exmoor Magazine? It covers May, June and July. Please email [email protected] to express interest. Rates and sizes are all on our media pack here:https://www.exmoormagazine.co.uk/documents/ratecard.pdf We’d love to hear from you and always do our best to help our advertisers however we can. Thank you for supporting local! 🌻
It’s official: we live in paradise. Sound up. Oliver Edwards @exmoor_hill_farmer captured this murmuration which he sees at Westermill most nights this time of year.
Something from @farmersguardian to make you smile on this wet afternoon. Perfect indoor fun for half term! 😂🐏😍
That’s quite the high tide! Thank you to @porlockinformationcentre for sharing this video by @exmooradventures - it even came up to our gigs! 😶
Before Monday morning pulls you into its madness, here is a kestral enjoying the view above Woolacombe. Posted by @wildseanorthdevon and guaranteed to lower blood pressure and increase seratonin. Wishing everyone a good week. 🥰
I’ve noticed a real increase in the people we feature doing reels about the mag. This is wonderful. Thank you! We can only work hard to promote all of our wonderful businesses - many of them independent makers - with the help of all you readers! Please help us to do what we do by picking up your copy of the mag. Here’s a reel from featured artist @sarah_le_breton - who is included in Spring Issue in a piece by Sophie James.
I love how excited people are getting about the new mag! This reel is by one of our lovely new stockists No.4creatives in Brook Street, Bampton. Thank you to our stockists, readers and advertisers for your energising enthusiasm. It means the world to us! Keep reeling everyone!