08/12/2024
REAL SURFING MAGAZINE..
I started Real Surfing magazine back in 2015, why?
Mostly because I just didn't relate to the mainstream media, still don't.
When I look back, it's insane how much the world has changed over the last 9/10 years.
I just flicked back through my issues of the mag I have sat on my dusty bookshelf.
I was so fortunate to have met and interviewed so many famous surfers, filmmakers and local shredders and characters over my time doing the magazine.
I always said I would see it through and get the magazine to issue 10, as ten issues seemed a good place to reassess where I'm at with it, to see if I wanted to carry on or not, does anyone still care?
The mad thing is, it sold better than ever, so it was weird to put something to rest that was gaining popularity, but if my heart isn't into something anymore then I don't do it, it's just the way I am.
Since 2015, surfing itself has changed immensely.
I think etiquette for one, died sometime around 2010. A different breed of surfer entered the lineups.
A more self centered, entitled breed, head down paddlers, me, me, me.
This was part of why I started the mag and this page. It stirred me to say something, fight against the flood of people not fitting respectfully into the lineups, not caring about the history, the nuances and culture of surfing.
It's difficult coming from a 50 something, lifelong, white, male surfer comes from. Being silent and hated on by a new generation, getting offended by having an opinion and a history gained from surfing for decades, learning respectfully my place in the lineups at home and abroad, the beatings, floggings and skills learned, but I wouldn't change a thing.
The magazine was an outpouring for this, and as it turns out, others thought the same way.
The printed media of the time was just too industry driven, the same faces with nothing to say (still is) I guess.
We are bombarded with surfing images and edits through social media. We can turn it off at anytime of course, but rarely do.
I miss the days of feeling the anticipation of seeing a new mag come out or surf film, it was a feeling many of us were fortunate enough to experience growing up.
There's also surfing 'pre' and 'post' covid. Who saw that coming!
Now, even going travelling to beautiful waves in far flung places has been ruined. Gentrification, trustafarians, digital Womads, surfgroups, surfcamps and the willingness of a poorer nation to please the 'surfer' of today that needs their barista coffee, Buddha bowls and yoga in a traditionally local fishing village, has changed every fun wave of no consequence around the world.
Bali, Srilanka and Morocco to give an example.
Personally, I found myself veering away from it all and have entered the world of 'alternative' or 'Fringe' surf craft.
Why? When I look at the way the lineup behaves these days, I feel almost ashamed of it.
Having everyone paddling straight to a peak, paddling for everything, not being able to have a conversation on why it's wrong to snake, be greedy, drop in etc just leads to you sounding like an entitled 'local' and never ends well, no matter how nicely you say it.
I'm not having on everyone. I still connect and respect so many of you in the lineup that have respect and stoke for surfing, it just feels like we have become the minority. I'm also not hatng on every new surfer either. I have met some incredible people who started in the last few years with that buzz and enthusiasm to soak up everything about surfing, but understand that there's more going on out there than themselves.
I however, started to go Bodysurfing, Bellyboarding, riding surf mats, Paipos, Trays and lots of different craft and finding a different place in the lineups, despite it being looked down on by the status quo, and hand on heart (apart from maybe surfing in the 80s into 90s) I feel part of something special again.
I have found an incredible community, sense of belonging, and more stoked, fit and happy than I have been in years.
Do I still surf? sure, but rarely, just when I feel it, to keep my eye in, and I still love it.
But... I draw way more from the feeling of connection to the wave and its weird and wonderful subculture feel, still inherent on the 'fringe' of surfing, it feels like when I first started in the early 80s.
I understand it's not for everyone, and that's great.
But my heart is full of love for the attitudes, community, characters of surfings Fringe community, and I am starting a new magazine 'Fringe Surfing Magazine' which I hope to release next spring.
I'm aware that 90% of you won't be buying it.
It's going to be a similar vibe, content heavy, old school, opinionated, lots of stories, articles and stoke, but only features Bodysurfing, bellyboarding,
Matsurfing, kneeboards, Alaia, paipos and so on.
It's not to be popular, or to sell it out.
I don't want it on shelves on the high St, airports and supermarkets.
It's for the rad community of surfers, open minded enough to try different craft to the mainstream.
The free thinkers, weirdos and shredders I've come across in the last few years globally.
These surfers are amongst the most humble, passionate people I've come across in 40 years of surfing, and I want to connect, inspire, and write about these guys, and I feel really excited about it, as I do miss the project and the process of publishing an underground magazine.
If anyone has early issues of Real Surfing magazine they don't want anymore, I have people waiting with cash to buy them, particularly issues 1, 2 and 3.
If you are interested, or are in the world of alternative surf craft, get in touch if you want to contribute to the new magazine.
My email remains the same
[email protected]
There's no money in it, it's all contributions based, for the community.
If the new mag doesn't sell, it'll be the first and the last, but I'd of won either way. I have to get it off my chest and out there in the world.
Thankyou to every one of you that has supported Real surfing and its journey over the years, and for reading all this drivel😂
Stevo⚡️
