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Selvedge Magazine: The fabric of your life: texile in Fashion, Fine Art, Interiors, Travel and Shopping.

MADE IN THE SHADE It is thought that chik-making arrived in India with the invasion of Central Asian dynasties during th...
24/01/2025

MADE IN THE SHADE
It is thought that chik-making arrived in India with the invasion of Central Asian dynasties during the medieval period. The chik blind or shade originated as a lowly reed screen employed in Mughal tented encampments to protect the multitude of horses and elephants from the heat and flies. It was refined in the 17th century and transitioned to the windows of the ladies of the Mughal court, providing them with cool filtered air while protecting their privacy. Miniature paintings reveal tantalising glimpses of the everyday use of chiks in the royal palaces, intricately patterned and coloured with designs of jaalis or lattices akin to the stone screens featured in Indigenous architecture. The only surviving set of Mughal chiks is preserved in the Mehrangarh Fort Museum at Jodhpur. They were captured in a battle between the Rajputs and Mughals. These are beautifully patterned with coloured silk threads wound around each successive reed to form a repeating floral pattern with a border, a design also found in the textiles of the period. (...)

Read the entire article on Selvedge issue 122, Winter White.

https://www.selvedge.org/products/issue-122-winter-white

Weekend Edition 04 - https://mailchi.mp/selvedge/weekend-edition-emailer-8128516 Your Selvedge Weekend Edition 04 is her...
24/01/2025

Weekend Edition 04 - https://mailchi.mp/selvedge/weekend-edition-emailer-8128516
Your Selvedge Weekend Edition 04 is here.
We hope you enjoy reading and reflecting on the inspiration and opportunities written within this weeks stories.

Reflecting on the stories in this week’s newsletter, we are reminded of the endless possibilities within the world of textiles. It’s the kind of inspiration that encourages us to dream, create, and explore new ideas.

Subtle Connections: Water and the Space in Between Water shapes our world, our stories, and our emotions, and Ruup & For...
22/01/2025

Subtle Connections: Water and the Space in Between

Water shapes our world, our stories, and our emotions, and Ruup & Form's upcoming exhibition explores these profound connections through the work of five exceptional artists, each inspired by water as both medium and muse.

Among them is Selvedge’s very own Assistant to the Editor, Katerina Knight, whose breathtaking textile art reflects her love for nature, sustainability, and storytelling. From foraging wild plants to cultivating a community garden, her practice celebrates the beauty and magic in everyday life.

Curated by Ruup & Form’s founder, Varuna Kollanethu, and art historian Stephanie Souroujon, this exhibition is a celebration of creativity, renewal, and connection.

Don’t miss this opportunity to support these talented artists and experience the magic of their work firsthand.

Where: Ruup & Form Gallery
7 Tilney Court, Old Street, London, EC1V 9BQ
When: 30 Jan – 22 Feb 2025
Opening Times: Wed–Sat, 12–6pm (or by appointment)
Collector’s Evening: 30 Jan 2025

Selvedge Upcoming Workshops / FebruarySaturday 8 & Saturday 15 February 2025, Improvisational Quilting with Malka Dubraw...
19/01/2025

Selvedge Upcoming Workshops / February

Saturday 8 & Saturday 15 February 2025, Improvisational Quilting with Malka Dubrawsky
[Online workshop, hosted on Zoom]

For several years, Malka worked primarily as a fiber artist and was included in prestigious shows and publications, among which were Visions, Quilt National, and Fiberarts: Design Book 7.

Fast forward a few years and she is making more functional textiles, designing fabric for Moda and Robert Kaufman Fabrics, teaching and lecturing, and writing two books, Color Your Cloth: A Quilter’s Guide to Dyeing and Patterning Fabric and Fresh Quilting: Fearless Color, Design, and Inspiration.

Additionally, she has designed for a host of other craft books and magazines and taught workshops across the country as well as online via Craftsy and CreativeLive.

Malka's focus has shifted to creating and selling beautiful, one-of-a-kind hand-dyed and patterned fabric and creating finished textiles for both functional and decorative use.

Follow Malka:


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Sunday 16 February 2025, Kabeliya Embroidery with Vamika [Online workshop, hosted on Zoom]
Nestled in the heartland of Rajasthan, amidst the vibrant tapestry of culture and tradition, Vamika emerges with a commitment to empowerment and sustainability by revitalising neglected craft skills among the Kalbeliya community.

As the founder and creative director, Juhi Sharma envisions a future where tradition and empowerment intersect harmoniously. With every stitch, Vamika stitches together a story of resilience, empowerment, and hope, leaving an indelible mark on Rajasthan's cultural landscape.
Follow:
www.vamika.co

https://www.selvedge.org/collections/workshops

STRAIGHT LACEDLace making techniques around the worldA lace may be defined simply as a cloth constructed with holes, cre...
17/01/2025

STRAIGHT LACED
Lace making techniques around the world

A lace may be defined simply as a cloth constructed with holes, created by twisting, braiding, knotting, or knitting fine threads together. Categorised by technique – featuring tape and braid, bobbin, and needlepoint laces – this guide may not be exhaustive, but it will equip you with a discerning eye to appreciate the subtle differences of each lace technique.

NEEDLEPOINT LACES Lace that is made with a needle and thread.
BRUSSELS POINT, LIMERICK, POINT DE FRANCE, PUNTO IN ARIA, RETICELLA, TENERIFE
(...)
Read the entire article on Selvedge issue 122, Winter White.

https://www.selvedge.org/products/issue-122-winter-white

17/01/2025

Open the dressing-up box and choose a Pop Out Crown inspired by historical designs. Pop Out Crowns are quickly assembled and ready to wear. They are designed and painted in-house at The Shop Floor Project in Cumbria, then carefully printed in England with carbon-balanced printers who work with the World Land Trust to ensure these eco-credentials.

Unveiling the Hidden Stories in Sholpan Sergazi’s CoutureSholpan Sergazi, a rising Kazakh couturier based in Florence, i...
16/01/2025

Unveiling the Hidden Stories in Sholpan Sergazi’s Couture
Sholpan Sergazi, a rising Kazakh couturier based in Florence, is redefining the boundaries of fashion with her latest collection Romantic Sublime. Founded in 2022, her brand Sergazi Firenze, beautifully merges Central Asian craftsmanship with European couture traditions. Through wearable art, Sergazi bridges cultures, eras, and emotions, crafting pieces that tell stories not only through aesthetics but also through the hidden elements sewn into each design.

The seeds of this journey were sown years earlier, when Sergazi, a young artist, sketched designs in the tranquil Bardini Gardens of Florence. In 2012, she began creating clothing and accessories for family and friends, a hobby that blossomed into something deeper over the next decade. In 2022, she felt compelled to share her vision with the world, founding her eponymous brand.

Beyond their visual grandeur, Sergazi’s creations hold hidden stories. Inside each garment, delicate linings adorned with beads, wool threads, and rock crystals reveal symbols of memory, human experience, and cultural interconnectedness...
(...)
Want to read more of this article?
We are proud to be a ​subscriber-funded publication with members in 185 countries. We know our readership is passionate about textiles, so we invite you to help us preserve and promote the stories, memories, and histories that fabric holds. Your support allows us to publish our magazine, and also ‘what's on’ information, and subscription interviews, reviews, and ​long-read articles in our online stories. (...)
https://www.selvedge.org/blogs/selvedge/unveiling-the-hidden-stories-in-sholpan-sergazi-s-couture

CHATTELA Portrait StudyWhen photojournalist Kevin Horan moved to Langley, Washington, on the west coast of the United St...
15/01/2025

CHATTEL
A Portrait Study

When photojournalist Kevin Horan moved to Langley, Washington, on the west coast of the United States, he was introduced to a new set of neighbours and set to take their portraits. Langley is a waterfront village perched like a signet ring on the lush 60-mile-long finger of Whidbey Island, the second-largest saltwater island in the continental United States. The town is nestled into a watershed that drains into a small harbour. Whidbey Island floats between the Olympic and Cascade Mountain ranges in Puget Sound, carved out of volcanic deposits left behind by massive glaciers extending to Seattle and beyond. I sat down with Horan to talk about his extraordinary portraits.
(...)
Please Read the entire article on Selvedge issue 122, Winter White.
https://www.selvedge.org/products/issue-122-winter-white
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First image: Lizzie, sheep.
Second image: Sherlock, angora goat.
Third image: Sydney, Changthangi goat.
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Kevin Horan Photographs ©2019

STRAIGHT LACEDLace making techniques around the worldA lace may be defined simply as a cloth constructed with holes, cre...
14/01/2025

STRAIGHT LACED
Lace making techniques around the world

A lace may be defined simply as a cloth constructed with holes, created by twisting, braiding, knotting, or knitting fine threads together. Categorised by technique – featuring tape and braid, bobbin, and needlepoint laces – this guide may not be exhaustive, but it will equip you with a discerning eye to appreciate the subtle differences of each lace technique.

BOBBIN LACES Braiding threads wound on bobbins and worked on a lace pillow
BEDFORDSHIRE LACE , CHANTILLY LACE, CLUNY LACE, GENOESE LACE, HONITON, MALTESE LACE
(...)
Read the entire article on Selvedge issue 122, Winter White.

https://www.selvedge.org/products/issue-122-winter-white

Based in the UK, Cecilie Telle is a Norwegian-born designer and artisan. Her textile journey began at age five when she ...
12/01/2025

Based in the UK, Cecilie Telle is a Norwegian-born designer and artisan. Her textile journey began at age five when she learned to knit, laying the foundation for her unique brand.

After studying at the Royal College of Art, an accidental felting incident sparked Telle's fascination with this transformative process, leading her to explore new possibilities in textile design.

Telle's artistry melds her fine art background with a reverence for global craftsmanship. Her designs echo the organic forms of baskets. Simultaneously, her Norwegian heritage infuses her work with time-honoured felting and knitting techniques, creating pieces that bridge ancient traditions and modern sensibilities.

Family-led and rooted in tradition, Telle's practice thrives in a former handbag factory. Sourcing wool from generations-old Norwegian and English mills, she ensures a connection to traditional manufacturing methods. Her production process, while small-scale, provides work for several local knitters, fostering a sense of community and preserving handcraft skills.

Cecilie's design approach is intuitive and organic, evolving thoughtfully beyond traditional seasonal cycles. Her enduring pieces blend durability with timeless appeal, embodying a commitment to slow creation and mindful consumption.

Through her work, Cecilie Telle invites us to appreciate the beauty of handmade objects and the human touch inherent in each piece. Her designs serve as a bridge between past and present, tradition and innovation, creating accessories that are beautiful and meaningful.

11/01/2025

STRAIGHT LACED

Lace making techniques around the world

A lace may be defined simply as a cloth constructed with holes, created by twisting, braiding, knotting, or knitting fine threads together. Categorised by technique – featuring tape and braid, bobbin, and needlepoint laces – this guide may not be exhaustive, but it will equip you with a discerning eye to appreciate the subtle differences of each lace technique.

created this illustration for this article, and we can see his creative process in this video.

Read the entire article on Selvedge issue 122, Winter White. https://www.selvedge.org/products/issue-122-winter-white

Selvedge Textile Tour: IndiaThis February and March, Selvedge invites you on an extraordinary Textile Tour of India, a j...
10/01/2025

Selvedge Textile Tour: India

This February and March, Selvedge invites you on an extraordinary Textile Tour of India, a journey into the rich heritage of Indian textiles, where centuries-old traditions intertwine with contemporary creativity amid vibrant, historic, and colour-filled streets.

If you’d like to join us on this extraordinary voyage, a few spaces are still available. Here’s a glimpse of what awaits:

“From misty Delhi mornings to the delicate beauty of the palaces of Jaipur, the craft workshops of Gujarat, the back waters of Kerala and the vibrant markets of Kolkata, this journey is a must for those who combine a love of textiles with an adventurous spirit.

Together, we will lead you on a journey beyond the surface of the tourist experience. You will enjoy walking tours, hands-on workshops with artisans, intimate dinners with collectors, and visits to design studios. You will experience Indian living traditions: khadi being spun and woven, Gujarati appliqué, natural dyeing, warp sizing, zardozi and mirror embroidery.

We will introduce you to textile dealers and show you our favourite shops, where you will find historical and tribal textiles, phulkari from Punjab, banjara embroidery, fine block printing, and folk and court textiles. Under our guidance, you will leave India with an in-depth understanding of India textiles and culture.

This journey will see the pages of Selvedge come to life.”

Polly Leonard, founder, Selvedge Magazine.

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India Week with Brinda Gill - Katna’s Kantha: Preserving a Tradition and Transforming Lives
Kantha—the Bengali term for layered, hand-embroidered, quilted covers—has long been a craft practised by women in the state of West Bengal, East India. Traditionally, these quilts were made from old saris, with each generation passing down the technique and motifs. Various regions of West Bengal feature distinct motifs and patterns on their kantha's.

The process of making a kantha involves layering well-worn fabrics and smoothing them out before beginning the quilting. The stitches are created with yarns taken from the same fabrics...

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India Week with Brinda Gill - A Rare Glimpse into Indian Trade TextilesJoin us for an unforgettable journey and immerse ...
09/01/2025

India Week with Brinda Gill - A Rare Glimpse into Indian Trade Textiles

Join us for an unforgettable journey and immerse yourself in the enchanting world of Indian textiles on the Selvedge 2025 Textile Tour of India. Limited spaces remaining - email [email protected] to learn more and book your place.

If you are a subscriber, read the entire article on Selvedge Stories. // To continue reading, subscribe today. https://www.selvedge.org/blogs/selvedge/x-1

QUIET LUXURYCashmere bell hat, £140mature-kobe.comSheepskin bodywarmer, £630soeur.ukWool cardigan, €358lesvacancesdirina...
07/01/2025

QUIET LUXURY

Cashmere bell hat, £140
mature-kobe.com

Sheepskin bodywarmer, £630
soeur.uk

Wool cardigan, €358
lesvacancesdirina.com

Renli Su embroidered waistcoat, £590
gentlewench.com

Bonanova jute slides, £145
pla.org.es

(...)
Read the entire article on Selvedge issue 122, Winter White.

Please find the link provided in our bio.

QUIET LUXURYCashmere bell hat, £140mature-kobe.comSheepskin bodywarmer, £630soeur.uk Wool cardigan, €358lesvacancesdirin...
05/01/2025

QUIET LUXURY

Cashmere bell hat, £140
mature-kobe.com

Sheepskin bodywarmer, £630
soeur.uk

Wool cardigan, €358
lesvacancesdirina.com

Renli Su embroidered waistcoat, £590
gentlewench.com

Bonanova jute slides, £145
pla.org.es

(...)
Read the entire article on Selvedge issue 122, Winter White.

https://www.selvedge.org/products/issue-122-winter-white

BASKETRY: RESCUING, REVIVING, RETAINING28 September 2024 – 12 January 2025, Ruthin Craft Centre.29 April – 12 June 2025,...
05/01/2025

BASKETRY: RESCUING, REVIVING, RETAINING
28 September 2024 – 12 January 2025, Ruthin Craft Centre.

29 April – 12 June 2025, Harley Gallery, Welbeck, Worksop.

The latest in a series of exhibitions to explore the quiet craft of basketry, like its predecessors, this show is concerned with the layered relationships between heritage and innovation, materials and processes, aesthetics and function. Examining the push and pull of these possibilities, basketmaking emerges as a practice that combines awareness of its histories with a distinctively contemporary sensibility. The influence of the past in the present is the overarching theme of the current exhibition. Curator Gregory Parsons has selected makers whose work speaks to the diverse basketry traditions in the British Isles, from growing and harvesting local plants to preparing and weaving their fibres into containers fit for specific purposes. Many of the baskets on display at Ruthin evoke an ecosystem of rural life: these baskets were used to trap, carry, store, and display produce from the land, sea, and rivers.

Far from an exercise in nostalgia, underpinning this interest in the basket cultures of the past is the contemporary maker’s respect for vernacular practice, concern for sustainable production, and participation in the economy of the handmade. From the vantage point of the present, many traditional baskets survive as exemplars of object integrity: a tightly woven symbiosis of materials, form, and function, invariably shaped and scaled to accommodate a human hand, arm, hip, or back.

Reclaiming the rich vocabulary of basketry is integral to the revival of form and techniques. Each word in this lexicon is embedded in a particular place and function. The sturdy hoops and ribs of the Welsh cyntell formed a basket strong enough to carry the potato harvest. (...)

Read the entire article on Selvedge issue 122, Winter White.

https://www.selvedge.org/products/issue-122-winter-white
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Image: Installation view of Basketry: Rescuing, Reviving, Retaining, Ruthin Craft Centre, Wales, UK, 2024. // Dewi Tannatt Lloyd

WHITER THAN WHITE Textile bleaching from solar energy and potash to sodium chlorideIn the snow-covered fields of Niigata...
04/01/2025

WHITER THAN WHITE
Textile bleaching from solar energy and potash to sodium chloride

In the snow-covered fields of Niigata in Japan, lengths of ramie textiles are stretched out in the sun to undergo a unique process of snow bleaching
(yukisarashi). This area is famous for producing traditional echigo-jofu cloth, which has been created in the same way for centuries and has been recognised as Intangible Cultural Heritage by UNESCO since 2009. This natural bleaching process occurs without using chemicals; instead, it relies on the reaction between the melting snow, cloth, and sunlight during the early months of the year. These optimum conditions transfor m the woven bast fibres into the signature white colour the region is famous for. The cloth is processed for ten days before being washed and inspected to ensure the quality matches the heritage standard. The natural fibres stay strong when lye or other chemicals are absent from the bleaching process. They are thought to maintain a brighter colour for longer without the yellowing that can occur from chemical bleaching.
(...)
Read the entire article on Selvedge issue 122, Winter White.

https://www.selvedge.org/products/issue-122-winter-white

STRAIGHT LACED Lace making techniques around the worldA lace may be defined simply as a cloth constructed with holes, cr...
03/01/2025

STRAIGHT LACED
Lace making techniques around the world

A lace may be defined simply as a cloth constructed with holes, created by twisting, braiding, knotting, or knitting fine threads together. Categorised by technique – featuring tape and braid, bobbin, and needlepoint laces – this guide may not be exhaustive, but it will equip you with a discerning eye to appreciate the subtle differences of each lace technique.

TAPE OR BRAID LACES
A lace where the design is made within a tape outline.
1. BATTENBERG LACE New York, USA Battenberg lace was first designed by Sara Hadley in New York. It took the name in honour of the wedding of Princess Beatrice, Queen Victoria’s youngest daughter, to Prince Henry of Battenberg. This form of tape lace is made up of loops that are caught together by twisted brides, to form the appearance of floppy edging. Early designs used only one stitch, the buttonhole picot. Later designs began to incorporate a variety of stitches, including rosettes.
(...)
Read the entire article on Selvedge issue 122, Winter White.

https://www.selvedge.org/products/issue-122-winter-white

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At the heart of the Selvedge story is a cerebral and sensual addiction to cloth and with that an appreciation of the beautifully made and carefully considered. Exploring and understanding the history, future, politics and aesthetics of textiles with its own distinct voice. Much more than a magazine; a valuable source of inspiration for designers and devotees alike. We acknowledge the significance of textiles as a part of everyone’s story. We are surrounded by cloth from the cradle to the grave and by exploring our universal emotional connection to fibre we share the stories and values that mean the most to us. Join us and make our stories part of your story.www.selvedge.org