Madrid No Frills

Madrid No Frills Independent media platform for the stories and images that define Madrid today.

Welcome to Madrid No Frills, an independent Madrid-based publication that platforms the under-reported narrative. We cover and confront inequality, discrimination and the status quo while putting people and communities at the heart of the story.

Four years since storm Filomena, when Madrid saw our highest snowfall in two centuries. It was beautiful and peaceful, f...
10/01/2025

Four years since storm Filomena, when Madrid saw our highest snowfall in two centuries. It was beautiful and peaceful, filled with the joy of people playing in the snow and even skiing and snowboarding in the streets.

But temperatures quickly bottomed out at -13°C at night for around a fortnight and four central metro stations – La Latina, Opera, Tirso de Molina and Estación del Arte – were opened as climate refuges for rough sleepers.

Three days in, with no snowploughs in sight, citizens begin clearing paths in the snow ourselves using shovels, hammers, brooms and screwdrivers – whatever we have to hand. All while wearing masks!

A week in, bins still haven't been emptied, no post delivered, schools remain shut and supermarkets are low on all stock. Over 2,000 people are hospitalised with ice-related fractures, and one rough sleeper is found without life, buried under the snow.

After two weeks, temperatures rise back to normal levels and the snow finally melts. A quarter of Madrid's trees have been damaged and almost all balcony plants have frozen.

Just like the DANA in Valencia, Madrid knew this was coming but wasn't prepared. And so what a fortnight that was...

Behind the main streets of El Rastro is a small network of hidden back lanes and walkways connecting Madrid's largest co...
04/01/2025

Behind the main streets of El Rastro is a small network of hidden back lanes and walkways connecting Madrid's largest concentration of corralas – the barrio's 18th and 19th century workers' housing built for migrants from all parts of Spain and, now, also the world 🧐 🏘️🪴

𝗡𝗲𝘄 𝗬𝗲𝗮𝗿𝘀 𝗘𝘃𝗲 𝗣𝗼𝗿𝘁𝗿𝗮𝗶𝘁 𝗼𝗳 𝗧𝗵𝗲 𝗢𝗹𝗱𝗲𝘀𝘁 𝗕𝗮𝗸𝗲𝗿𝘆 𝗶𝗻 𝗠𝗮𝗱𝗿𝗶𝗱 🥯🥐🍰Just around the corner from Sol, Antigua Pastelería del Pozo, o...
31/12/2024

𝗡𝗲𝘄 𝗬𝗲𝗮𝗿𝘀 𝗘𝘃𝗲 𝗣𝗼𝗿𝘁𝗿𝗮𝗶𝘁 𝗼𝗳 𝗧𝗵𝗲 𝗢𝗹𝗱𝗲𝘀𝘁 𝗕𝗮𝗸𝗲𝗿𝘆 𝗶𝗻 𝗠𝗮𝗱𝗿𝗶𝗱 🥯🥐🍰

Just around the corner from Sol, Antigua Pastelería del Pozo, on Calle Pozo, has been serving traditional pastries since 1830. The very frills bakery has kept its original frilly decor this whole time and the pastry chefs continue to use artisanal techniques.

Their most famous product is puff pastry, made by hand in the street-level kitchen. In the cellar, there’s a multi-storey oven and, back upstairs, the pastries are creamed and decorated. In the wood and mirror-clad shop, cakes and treats and roscones are wrapped and adorned in front of the customer.

Almost 200 years since opening, during which so many traditional businesses in this barrio have closed, El Pozo remains a thriving bakery and always has queues out the door on special occasions.

One of the pastry chefs tells me, “Today, New Years Eve, isn’t as busy as it will be on 5 January, it’s going to be crazy but we’re prepared!”

https://madridnofrills.com/new-years-eve-portrait-of-the-oldest-bakery-in-madrid/

🏠 San Diego, Vallekas: 2017 vs today 👻 On the corner of Avenida San Diego and Calle Sierra Molina, there was a small cor...
27/12/2024

🏠 San Diego, Vallekas: 2017 vs today 👻

On the corner of Avenida San Diego and Calle Sierra Molina, there was a small corner block complex of casas bajas and a no-frills bar called Taberna Bailen, which had been demolished in 2016, exposing the interior home which had an upstairs and downstairs. The complex possibly dated back to the early 1900s, around the same era as the Peironcely 10 complex nearby which was famously photographed by Robert Capa during the Spanish Civil War.

I don't think anyone was living here at the time I took this shot, but I suspect they had been very recently as there were around six butane tanks stored on the staircase, and the potted plants were still alive.

Today, all that remains of the empty plot is a ghost building marking out where the last surviving house used to be. In its place will be a new housing block of two-bedroom flats starting at €240,000.

Perched at the highest point of the San José neighbourhood, the iconic snail shell-shaped Torre de San José stands 15 st...
26/12/2024

Perched at the highest point of the San José neighbourhood, the iconic snail shell-shaped Torre de San José stands 15 stories tall as a striking symbol of Vallekas. Completed in 1995, this unique social housing block offers breathtaking panoramic views across the vibrant city of Madrid, and the former community squat, CSO Atalaya, which is currently being demolished.

More homes and social centres for all, and more social housing for those who need it ✊🏾

I finally made it to Kebab House, founded in 1978! 🌯🌯🌯I've been trying for years, but it had inconsistent opening hours ...
24/12/2024

I finally made it to Kebab House, founded in 1978! 🌯🌯🌯

I've been trying for years, but it had inconsistent opening hours until the retirement of owner Mr Romel after some 45 years of serving local students, and who has handed over the reins.

The Lebanese shawarma durum, the only food they sell (either with or without spicy sauce), is easily one of the best in Madrid. Their no-frills style and approach is definitely inspired by being located in the student area of the city but, as is written on the wall, the elderly get priority 🧓🌯💞

His parents were sitting on a terrace in the shade so he walked a little bit and sat here in the sun instead 🐕🌭☀️🍷
19/12/2024

His parents were sitting on a terrace in the shade so he walked a little bit and sat here in the sun instead 🐕🌭☀️🍷

On a Sunday, this bar is rammed but it's a bit of an overlooked place during the week, like many of the Rastro bars and ...
17/12/2024

On a Sunday, this bar is rammed but it's a bit of an overlooked place during the week, like many of the Rastro bars and shops.

Cervecería Arganzuela is an Andalusian no-frills bar/marisquería in El Rastro with the best neon signage in the barrio ⚡ The food and wine is great, especially the big prawns, which are also painted on the shutter and what I was trying to take a picture of when they opened 😄 The fella who painted the paintings inside is often propped up at the bar, always happy to chat about his art.

An all-round gem of a no-frills bar 🦐🦪🦀🐟💚❤️⚡

Mañana, tengo el increíble placer de presentar el nuevo fotolibro titulado Toldo Verde, por Pablo Arboleda de Amigos del...
16/12/2024

Mañana, tengo el increíble placer de presentar el nuevo fotolibro titulado Toldo Verde, por Pablo Arboleda de Amigos del Toldo Verde y K**e Carbajal, dos madrileños con una sana obsesión con los toldos verdes 💚

El martes 17 de Diciembre por la tarde a las 19h en la librería La Central dentro del emblemático Museo Reina Sofía 👑 me uniré a Azucena Klett, Jorge Dioni y Antonio Lucas para dar una pequeña presentación sobre mis pensamientos del libro, del que tengo la suerte de tener ya una copia! Pero ven y compra una para ti... de verdad es uno de los libros más bonitos que he visto nunca 💚💚💚

📚 Toldo Verde: Postales de otro Patrimonio
👑 La Central del Museo Reina Sofia
🕖 19h-21h
📍 Ronda de Atocha, 2, Lavapiés
🔗 www.lacentral.com/agenda/madrid/evento/toldo-verde-postales-de-otro-patrimonio-pablo-arboleda-y-kike-carbajal-191609

📸 1 © y 📸 2 es el libro Tolde Verde 😍

😯 Can you believe these are the same street?Snowy Cava Baja and Las Fiesta's de Cava Baja are both available as a print ...
16/12/2024

😯 Can you believe these are the same street?

Snowy Cava Baja and Las Fiesta's de Cava Baja are both available as a print ☃️🎊

🖼️ A4: €30
🖼️ A3: €40
🖼️ A2: €50

🌪️ Orders will be rapidly processed and ready within just two days of payment. If you're in a hurry, let me know and I'll see what I can do!

📨 To make an order, email me, Leah, at [email protected] and tell me what you want!

❤️ Visit link in below for all info, and discover my foam-core mounting option!

https://madridnofrills.com/prints/

Yesterday we continued filming for our upcoming documentary 'Soy Tribulete 7' as residents put on another powerful perfo...
15/12/2024

Yesterday we continued filming for our upcoming documentary 'Soy Tribulete 7' as residents put on another powerful performance for the country to see. The neighbours continue standing united in their fight against big real estate companies, especially Elix, the one that wants them out 🦅

This performance expresses the death of a community of neighbours which, in turn, demonstrates that it is still very much alive ✊🏾 we cannot wait to add this incredible footage to our documentary and continue our crowdfunding campaign in January ❤️‍🔥

https://madridnofrills.com/soy-tribulete-7-brand-new-documentary-in-the-making-about-lavapies-fight-back/

📸 Fotos Madrid Decadente en X

𝗪𝗲𝗹𝗰𝗼𝗺𝗲 𝘁𝗼 𝗧𝗵𝗲 𝗠𝗮𝗱𝗿𝗶𝗱 𝗡𝗼 𝗙𝗿𝗶𝗹𝗹𝘀 𝗛𝗶𝗴𝗵 𝗦𝘁𝗿𝗲𝗲𝘁 ☕🍷🍺 🥛🥐🥘With so much excitement, I’m launching a series of illustrated prints...
11/12/2024

𝗪𝗲𝗹𝗰𝗼𝗺𝗲 𝘁𝗼 𝗧𝗵𝗲 𝗠𝗮𝗱𝗿𝗶𝗱 𝗡𝗼 𝗙𝗿𝗶𝗹𝗹𝘀 𝗛𝗶𝗴𝗵 𝗦𝘁𝗿𝗲𝗲𝘁 ☕🍷🍺 🥛🥐🥘

With so much excitement, I’m launching a series of illustrated prints made in collaboration with the talented Sir Erithethird, who has drawn the beautiful Madrid No Frills High Street based on my original photographs 😍

These cartoon drawings are the Madrid neighbourhood high street as it is today, full of delightful bars, churrerías and horchata factories – where great stories begin and where Madrid life happens ✨

All prints – individual businesses and the full collection – are now available to buy!

🖼️ A4: €30
🖼️ A3: €40
🖼️ A2: €50

🌪️ Orders will be rapidly processed and ready within just two days of payment. If you're in a hurry, let me know and I'll see what I can do!

👉🏾 All info here: https://madridnofrills.com/mnf-print-illustrations/

✨ The Cervecería prints 💞 The iconic no-frills bar that could be in any barrio but definitely in Madrid ✨If you're looki...
10/12/2024

✨ The Cervecería prints 💞 The iconic no-frills bar that could be in any barrio but definitely in Madrid ✨

If you're looking for a bespoke gift with Madrid at its heart, I have 20 beautiful photography prints you can choose from!

🖼️ A4: €30
🖼️ A3: €40
🖼️ A2: €50

🌪️ Orders will be rapidly processed and ready within just two days of payment. If you're in a hurry, let me know and I'll see what I can do!

📨 To make an order, email me, Leah, at [email protected] and tell me what you want!

❤️ Visit link below for all info, and discover my foam-core mounting option! 😍

🎁🎁🎁🎁🎁🎁

✨ Las láminas de la Cervecería 💞 El icónico bar de toda la vida que podría estar en cualquier barrio, pero sin duda en Madrid ✨

❤️ Buscas un regalo con Madrid en el corazón? Tengo 20 preciosas láminas fotográficas entre las que puedes elegir!

🖼️ A4: €30
🖼️ A3: €40
🖼️ A2: €50

Los pedidos se tramitarán rápidamente y estarán listos en sólo dos días tras el pago. Si tienes prisa, dímelo y veré lo que puedo hacer!

📨 Para hacer un pedido, mándame un email a [email protected] y dime lo que quieres!

❤️ Visitar el enlace abajo para toda la info, y descubre la opción de montaje en cartón pluma 😍

The article that shot MNF to fame six years ago. I wrote..."I've forever found no-frills bars inspiring spaces. They’re ...
10/12/2024

The article that shot MNF to fame six years ago. I wrote...

"I've forever found no-frills bars inspiring spaces. They’re gateways to Madrid’s working-class soul, and are unpretentiously beautiful, just like the city. They’re also where Madrid No Frills was born, propping up the bar with a caña and a tapa and listening to the owner’s story."

Though we may have lost a quarter of these bars, nothing about what they mean to us has changed.

I've forever found no-frills bars inspiring spaces. They're gateways to Madrid's working-class soul, and are unpretentiously beautiful, just like the city. They're also where Madrid No Frills was born, propping up the bar with a caña and a tapa and listening to the owner's story.

𝟭𝟬 𝗻𝗼-𝗳𝗿𝗶𝗹𝗹𝘀 𝗯𝗮𝗿𝘀 𝗶𝗻 𝗠𝗮𝗱𝗿𝗶𝗱 𝘁𝗵𝗮𝘁 𝗻𝗼 𝗹𝗼𝗻𝗴𝗲𝗿 𝗲𝘅𝗶𝘀𝘁 💔 In 2018, I published a photo series called 100 No Frills Bars. It wen...
09/12/2024

𝟭𝟬 𝗻𝗼-𝗳𝗿𝗶𝗹𝗹𝘀 𝗯𝗮𝗿𝘀 𝗶𝗻 𝗠𝗮𝗱𝗿𝗶𝗱 𝘁𝗵𝗮𝘁 𝗻𝗼 𝗹𝗼𝗻𝗴𝗲𝗿 𝗲𝘅𝗶𝘀𝘁 💔

In 2018, I published a photo series called 100 No Frills Bars. It went viral and was featured in some 20 major newspapers and magazines, it set off a chain reaction of artists painting creative versions of my images, and I gained around 10,000 followers in just a few days. I started to wonder if I might even be able to influence the longevity of Madrid's no-frills bars. And maybe I did, briefly 🤷🏽‍♀️

Six years on, no-frills bars are as popular as ever, however, this hasn't stopped their decline. Of my 100 No Frills Bars featured, I've been able to confirm that around a quarter have closed, but I believe this number will be even higher in reality.

This is not a story of changing habits, lifestyle or culture; it's a story of commercial property speculation. Every single Madrid resident, native and adopted, loves the no-frills bar. It is part of our DNA. But no matter how often you frequent a no-frills bar, and how much you keep it afloat with buying cafés y cañas, the forces behind its survival are far greater than customers alone can influence.

We need to:
💰 Limit property speculation
🔎 Increase inspections on illegal tourist apartments that often occupy commercial units
🏚️ Expropriate empty properties
🏗️ Build more affordable houses and shop units
👛 Increase salaries to match property prices
..and we need to pressure the governments to actually do this.

Solve Madrid's housing emergency, and keep our no-frills bars ❤️‍🔥

05/12/2024

Juernes in La Latina 🍷🍺

Exciting news! 📰 Next week, I'll be in Barcelona for the XQ.EUJOY European Youth Journalism Conference to speak about my...
05/12/2024

Exciting news! 📰

Next week, I'll be in Barcelona for the XQ.EUJOY European Youth Journalism Conference to speak about my recent Madrid No Frills citizens journalism projects 'Lo Que Atesoro', ' ' and 'Así Soy Yo'. They're three self portrait projects I did and am so proud of, where I trained up and handed over the camera and mic to the very people telling their own story 📸🎤🎬

My talk, “What if the journalist and photographer was also the source?" will take place on Friday 13 December at 2.30pm in Edificio Roc Boronat on the Comunicación-Poblenou campus, bringing together academics, journalists and teachers to explore the role of journalism in combatting misinformation 🙅🏽‍♀️

As a teacher of journalism, I'm passionate about inspiring the youngest generation of journalists (who wouldn't be!) especially through my experiences of doing things a bit differently on MNF. And what an honour to be speaking to them in one of the top universities in Spain and Europe ✨

The entire event is free and registration is open, so sign up and come along! ✍🏾 https://lnkd.in/dMkvqqjk

🏘️ Madrid has many historic"colonies" dedicated to workers.📰 For example, the Colonia de Prensa (the Colony of Journalis...
02/12/2024

🏘️ Madrid has many historic"colonies" dedicated to workers.

📰 For example, the Colonia de Prensa (the Colony of Journalism) in Carabanchel was established in the early 20th century to provide affordable housing for journalists and media professionals, addressing a housing shortage as the city modernised. Designed to foster community among press workers, the barrio became a symbol of the growing influence of the media in Spain.

Over time, as the media industry expanded and journalism became an increasingly underpaid job, the original purpose of the area faded, property was speculated, and it became a residential neighbourhood for the wealthier residents of the city.

🚂 Another example of a barrio built for a specific profession is Madrid's old colony for train staff, the Colonia Casas de Ferroviarios. This micro-barrio – essentially a village in the middle of a bustling city – is laid out along two winding streets: Calle Tomás Bretón and Alonso Martos, tucked behind Delicias Station.

Thousands of railway workers and their families lived in affordable, handsome homes just a two-minute walk from work – a utopian existence in the context of Madrid today.

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