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Tashi Delek Magazine

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Tashi Delek Magazine

"The Travel & Lifestyle Magazine of Bhutan"
Inflight magazine of Drukair, Royal Bhutan Airlines It is any foreigner's first window to Bhutan.

Tashi Delek is the inflight magazine of Drukair, Royal Bhutan Airline, published once in two months. It carries riveting pieces on various aspects of Bhutan written by the Bhutanese as well as foreigners. Printed on high quality paper with embossed title, the print run of the magazine runs as high as 14,000 during the peak tourist season.

09/04/2025

ʙᴇᴄᴏᴍɪɴɢ ᴀ ᴄᴏɴsᴇʀᴠᴀᴛɪᴏɴɪsᴛ
- 𝘾𝙝𝙚𝙣𝙞𝙣𝙜 𝘿𝙤𝙧𝙟𝙞

I grew up in a remote village called Gongthung in Trashigang. When I was in my second year in school I dropped out because I was needed at home to help with the farm work. I would herd the cattle in the forest, and although I did not realize then, I was deeply aware of nature – the birds, its nests and the animals in the forests. But sometimes, as time in the forest would stretch I would just for the sake of fun, destroy nests. It is something that I regret.

Years later, after coming to Thimphu with my uncle and then taking on the job of a driver’s assistant in my teen and later joining the civil service as a driver, my life took a turn. I always found value in learning, a never-ending process that I continue to engage in and find rewarding. I believe strongly that the process of continuous learning makes one a productive citizen.

I joined Royal Society of Protection for Nature (RSPN) in 1998 as a driver and would often accompany staff in the field. Most of RSPN’s work those days revolved around research and conservation works of birds. My interest in learning amplified my interest in birds. It also made me aware of the importance of birds in an ecosystem. It was more than just a beautiful creature flitting around and singing sweet melodies. It was important for seed dispersal and pest management, an important role for nature to thrive.

We have clean air to breathe, fresh water to drink and healthy food to eat, all of which are thanks to the birds. They play a great role in shaping and maintaining a healthy natural environment. While all biodiversity is critical to our environment, there are big birds such as the black-necked cranes and the white-bellied heron, which because of human-activities are “near threatened” and “critically endangered”. This has made me realize how destructive ignorance can be.

It became a passion, for me, to learn about the birds and wildlife in general. I carried this passion with me to WWF-Bhutan, which I joined in 2013. With my experience in the forests herding cows, I knew the birds, their habitats, and characteristics, and getting to know more about the birds from conservationists and nature-lovers added to charm of learning. By the time I realized I was driving donors and international conservationists to national parks and reserves to showcase our beautiful birds, mammals and plants. I was getting up early or camping in freezing grounds to catch sight of early birds. I was organizing birding trips and engaged with colleagues in creating Nature Cub (RSPN) and Young Bhutanese Birders Club (WWF-Bhutan) across the country. Over 20 schools in the country have young Bhutanese birders and these clubs are a small contribution to the tsa-wa-sum (King, people and country).

Recognizing my interest in wildlife, I was encouraged to take up photography by my office management and later gifted a camera by an international guest. My former boss, WWF-Bhutan Counter Representative Dechen Dorji said one day, that I should actually capture the images of the wildlife rather than just having the binocular hung around my shoulders. I went online and learnt photography. This resulted into contributing wildlife photos to the office library, and publishing of two books on birds called “Wings of the Dragon: Birds from the Kingdom of Bhutan”.

not necessarily deprive one of continuous learning and growth. English is an important language, and I took a two-month course so I could communicate better with guests and donors, and more importantly become as productive a citizen as I could be. And to be a conservationist, one need not go to school or get a college degree. If there is a thirst for self-development and if you are open to learning, everyday experience is a teacher, and you are responsible for making the most of it.

https://www.tashidelekmagazine.com/becoming-a-conservationist/

08/04/2025

ʜᴇᴀʟɪɴɢ ɪɴ ᴛʜᴇ ʜɪᴍᴀʟᴀʏᴀs
ᴡʜᴏ ᴅᴏᴇsɴ’ᴛ ʟɪᴋᴇ ᴛʜᴇ sᴏᴜɴᴅ ᴏғ ᴛʜᴀᴛ?
- 𝙔𝙤𝙜𝙖 𝙔𝙖𝙣𝙜𝙘𝙝𝙚𝙣

𝐖𝐡𝐚𝐭 𝐢𝐬 𝐬𝐨𝐮𝐧𝐝?
In science, sound is a form of energy that travels as mechanical waves through matter by vibration, detected by our ears and interpreted by our brain as audible sensations.

In Buddhism, sound is seen as one of the six sense objects (shabda) - a temporary, impermanent phenomenon that arises and passes away, teaching us about impermanence (anicca).

𝐎𝐫𝐢𝐠𝐢𝐧𝐬 𝐨𝐟 𝐒𝐨𝐮𝐧𝐝 𝐇𝐞𝐚𝐥𝐢𝐧𝐠
The roots of sound healing are widespread and go back thousands of years, with many cultures recognizing the healing power of sound. Some well-known examples:

Tibetan Buddhism: Tibetan monks have been using singing bowls in meditation and healing ceremonies for centuries. The bowls produce overtones that create a powerful meditative atmosphere, facilitating healing.

India: The use of mantras and chanting has long been part of the yogic tradition, with certain sounds said to correspond to specific chakras.

Ancient Egypt: Temples were designed with resonant chambers to amplify sound, allowing priests to use chants for healing.

Ancient Greece: Pythagoras, the philosopher and mathematician, used harmonic frequencies to treat physical ailments.

𝐓𝐡𝐞 𝐬𝐜𝐢𝐞𝐧𝐜𝐞 𝐛𝐞𝐡𝐢𝐧𝐝 𝐬𝐨𝐮𝐧𝐝 𝐡𝐞𝐚𝐥𝐢𝐧𝐠
At its core, sound healing is based on a fundamental principle: everything in our universe is in constant motion, creating vibrations. Our bodies, too, are symphonies of vibration, with each organ and system operating at its own frequency. Sound healing works through the concept of entrainment, a phenomenon where one vibration affects another. Sound doesn’t just enter through our ears; the vibrations interact with our entire body at a cellular level. When a sound wave is introduced into the body, it entrains or harmonizes the body’s cells with that frequency, leading to a state of equilibrium. This is particularly effective in reducing stress, alleviating pain, and promoting deep relaxation.

Sound healing in my own practice focuses mostly on balancing the chakras. The word “chakra” comes from the Sanskrit word for “wheel” or “circle”, and refers to energy centers in the body. These energy centers are believed to govern our physical, emotional, and spiritual well-being. Chakra healing has been practiced for centuries, rooted in ancient Eastern philosophies like Hinduism and Buddhism. By working with specific sound frequencies, you can unblock and balance your chakras, leading to improved emotional well-being, physical health, and spiritual growth. In traditional Eastern systems, there are seven main chakras aligned along the spine, each associated with a specific part of the body, element, color, and frequency. Sound healers use various instruments and tones to activate and balance specific chakras.

𝐁𝐞𝐧𝐞𝐟𝐢𝐭𝐬 𝐨𝐟 𝐬𝐨𝐮𝐧𝐝 𝐡𝐞𝐚𝐥𝐢𝐧𝐠
Balances the chakra system: Many practitioners of sound healing believe that it can align the chakra system, which is responsible for the energetic health of the body. Blocked or unbalanced chakras can lead to physical or emotional discomfort, and sound healing can help restore equilibrium.

Reduces stress and anxiety: Sound healing has been shown to reduce the level of stress hormones in the body. The soothing vibrations help to calm the nervous system, encouraging a state of relaxation.

Enhances sleep quality: Many individuals who undergo sound healing report improved sleep quality, as it helps to relax both the body and the mind.

Promotes physical healing: By restoring the body’s natural frequency, sound healing can relieve pain and accelerate the healing process. The vibrations stimulate cells and tissues, which can aid in recovery from injuries.

Enhances mental clarity: The deep state of relaxation that sound healing induces helps clear mental clutter, improving focus and concentration.

Facilitates spiritual growth and self-awareness: The meditative quality of sound healing allows individuals to connect with their inner selves, facilitating personal growth and spiritual awareness.

𝐒𝐨𝐮𝐧𝐝 𝐡𝐞𝐚𝐥𝐢𝐧𝐠 𝐯𝐬. 𝐒𝐨𝐮𝐧𝐝 𝐛𝐚𝐭𝐡𝐬
While both practices harness the therapeutic power of sound, they serve different purposes and are conducted in distinct ways.

Individual sound healing sessions are intimate, personalized experiences where the practitioner works directly with a single client. During these sessions, singing bowls are placed on or around the body’s energy centers, known as chakras. The practitioner carefully observes the client’s responses and adjusts the sounds and vibrations accordingly.

In one-on-one sound healing sessions, we can address specific physical or emotional concerns. The vibrations from the singing bowls can help release tension in particular areas, promote energy flow, and create deep states of relaxation that facilitate healing.

Sound baths, on the other hand, are group experiences where participants lie comfortably while being “bathed” in sound waves produced by various instruments. These might include Tibetan singing bowls, chimes, rainsticks, bells, and other therapeutic instruments. While less personalized than individual sessions, sound baths create a powerful collective energy.

The sound bath experience is both meditative and therapeutic. As the sounds flow through the space, participants often report entering deeply relaxed states where healing can naturally occur. It’s common to experience what practitioners call a “sound journey” – a state where the mind quiets and the body’s natural healing mechanisms are activated.

𝐒𝐞𝐭𝐭𝐢𝐧𝐠 𝐭𝐡𝐞 𝐬𝐭𝐚𝐠𝐞
Whether opting for a private healing session or joining a sound bath, participants should wear comfortable clothing and may want to bring a blanket. The experience typically begins with gentle breathing exercises to prepare the body and mind.

The key is to arrive with an open mind and heart. Some people experience profound insights or emotional releases, while others simply enjoy deep relaxation. Every session is unique, and there’s no ‘right’ way to experience it.

𝐆𝐨𝐨𝐝 𝐯𝐢𝐛𝐫𝐚𝐭𝐢𝐨𝐧𝐬 𝐢𝐧 𝐁𝐡𝐮𝐭𝐚𝐧
In a world that often feels out of tune, sound healing and sound baths offer a harmonious path to wellbeing, helping us find our natural rhythm and restore our inner peace, one vibration at a time.

And Bhutan, with its spiritual heritage, is the perfect place to experience the healing and rejuvenating powers of sound.

https://www.tashidelekmagazine.com/healing-in-the-himalayas/

07/04/2025

ᴠɪɢɴᴇᴛᴛᴇs ᴏғ ʟɪғᴇ ɪɴ ʀᴜʀᴀʟ ʙʜᴜᴛᴀɴ
ᴛʀᴀᴠᴇʟs ɪɴ ᴋᴜʀᴛᴏᴇ, ʟʜᴜᴇɴᴛsᴇ
- 𝘒𝘦𝘻𝘢𝘯𝘨 𝘜𝘥𝘦𝘯 𝘗𝘦𝘯𝘫𝘰𝘳

Of the 20 dzongkhags that makes up present day Bhutan, my maternal ancestral village of Thuenpay in the far north-eastern corner of Lhuentse dzongkhag remains isolated and unknown.

To sign off the year 2024 on an adventurous note, my husband Sangay and I decided to make a short trip there. This would be his first visit and mine in 40 years. We did not know what we would find on our arrival but the excitement of the moment and planning for the trip took away all doubts and misgivings.

On the two-day journey from Thimphu in the west to Dungkar village, we clocked in a total distance of 500 kilometers in about 15 hours of driving time. As it was not wise to drive directly to Thuenpay on treacherous ice-covered roads in wintertime, we spent a night at the Chumey Nature Resort in Gyetsa, Bumthang.

The drive along the national highway to the east took us through some of the most spectacular landscapes. From alpine forests to terraces of cultivated fields and small clusters of village settlements, we climbed up to the highest elevation of Thrumshing La (3780 metres), a pass connecting the central and eastern regions. Narrow deep gorges cut into continuous chains of hills that stretched far into the distant horizon.

From the district capital of Lhuentse Dzong, we took the 40 km unpaved road going north to Dungkar village. Before its completion in 2008, I remember the old days when we walked and traveled on horseback for five days from Mongar to our village. I still carry memories of camping under the stars.

The living conditions of people in Thuenpay and neighboring villages have improved significantly with basic health services and education being provided free of cost by the government. When electricity arrived in 2011, farming and household chores became easier. Electric kettles and rice cookers were the rage in my village at one time and soon television sets followed with satellite dishes on rooftops becoming a familiar sight. Where once farmers plowed the fields using oxen, now they have power tillers. My 73-years-old aunt Aum Zangmo proudly uses her rice milling machine at harvest-time.

One evening as I watched a cowherd drive his cows home along the farm road that ran around the villages like a pale yellow ribbon, I wondered what lay in store for Thuenpay and neighboring villages in the future. For many years, they have been grappling with the challenges of rural-urban migration. Many families leave for towns in search of jobs and better opportunities leaving their houses empty for months and even years in many instances. Although it is a phenomenon plaguing many other places in the country, I feel if the trend continues it is a setback from which they will never recover.

As more fields are left fallow each year with the shortage of farm labor, these fields become forests over time. Attacks by wild animals on crops and livestock have become common. I heard stories of troops of monkeys causing mayhem as they brazenly raid corns of cob drying in the attics of houses and fruit from kitchen gardens. Sangay was curious why we never heard the barking of dogs during our stay and he later learned leopards had killed all the dogs in the village.

On a brighter note, my ancestral home region is a land blessed by many places of historical and religious interest. I will highlight some of them here.

𝐃𝐮𝐧𝐠𝐤𝐚𝐫 𝐂𝐡𝐨𝐞𝐣𝐞 𝐋𝐡𝐚𝐤𝐡𝐚𝐧𝐠
Perched on a ridge shaped like a conch shell, the house of Dungkar Choeje in Dungkar village is of utmost historical importance. It is the ancestral birthplace of the Wangchuck Dynasty. Jigme Namgyel, the father of the first king, was born here in 1825 and left home when he was 15 to eventually become the Trongsa Penlop and the 51st Desi. With funding from the government, the Choeje Lhakhang hosts several annual events like Gurdra held on the 28th and 29th days of the 2nd month of the Bhutanese lunar calendar and the Goempo Jatsha taking place from the 30th day of the 10th month until the 4th day of the 11th month. This is followed by the Dungkar Tshechu celebrated from the 8th to the 11th day of the 11th lunar month. During the tshechu, Terchams (treasure dances) believed to have been choreographed by Terton Pemalingpa himself.

𝐃𝐮𝐧𝐠𝐤𝐚𝐫 𝐍𝐚𝐤𝐭𝐬𝐚𝐧𝐠
A short walk up the hill from Dungkar Choeje Lhakhang is the stately manor of Dungkar Naktsang also known as Jigme Namgyel Naktshang and Khetangbi Naktsang. On his return from Gangtey Goenpa in western Bhutan where he lived for a time, Pila Goenpo Wangyel, the father of Jigme Namgyel lived here. His daughter Ashi Tshewang Dem rebuilt and expanded the imposing building in honor of her brother who had become the powerful Trongsa Penlop. Pila Goenpo Wangyel was a direct descendant of the 15th century treasure revealer Terton Pemalingpa.

𝐆𝐨̈𝐞𝐬𝐡𝐩𝐚𝐧𝐠 𝐋𝐡𝐚𝐤𝐡𝐚𝐧𝐠
One of the most sacred temples in our area, Goeshpang Lhakhang was believed to have been built by Terton Pema Lingpa in 1501. According to popular legend, Pemalingpa who was fleeing persecution from Ney village had sought shelter in Tangrung. The people of Tangrung treated him with deep devotion and respect and offered him a piece of land to build a temple. While searching for a suitable site, he saw a vulture flying towards a ridge that resembled the same posture of the bird in flight. He decided to build the temple on that spot and it received the name of Vulture’s Feather Plains temple. It houses an exquisite statue of Guru Padmasambhava sculpted by none other than Pema Lingpa himself.

𝐊𝐮𝐧𝐳𝐚𝐧𝐠𝐥𝐢𝐧𝐠 𝐋𝐡𝐚𝐤𝐡𝐚𝐧𝐠
On the opposite side of the Kurichu river from our village is Kunzangling Lhakhang. It was established by the renowned Nyingma master Kuenkhen Longchen Ramjam who traveled to Bhutan from Tibet in the 14th century to teach the Great Path of Perfection (Dzogchen) to his followers. Kunzangling Lhakhang is one of the eight Lings or spiritual centers he set up in Bhutan. Besides housing the usual images of the Buddha, Guru Padmasambhava and Zambhala (God of Wealth), one can see the footprint of Longchenpa on a rock in his tiny hermitage.

𝐑𝐢𝐧𝐜𝐡𝐞𝐧 𝐁𝐮𝐦𝐩𝐚
Perched high on a cliff above the Kurichhu is Neychhen Rinchen Bumpa (Vase of Jewels), a sacred site of pilgrimage in the Kurtoe region. Believed to have been visited by Guru Padmasambhava in the 8th century and where his spiritual consort Yeshe Tshogyel meditated in a cave, there is a radiant spiritual energy about this place. Among the numerous rock imprints and sin-cleansing caves, one of the most fascinating relics on the site is the stone tablet of the powerful protector deity Za Rahula of the Nyingma sect. Although the tablet is smooth and blank for most of the day, when the first rays of the sun fall on the carved stone, mystical syllables with the Guru’s mantra Om Ah Hum Vajra Guru Padma Siddhi Hung and other mantras begin to magically appear on the stone.

𝐒𝐞𝐫𝐳𝐡𝐨𝐧𝐠 𝐋𝐡𝐚𝐤𝐡𝐚𝐧𝐠
Built in 1933 or 1934, Serzhong Lhakhang or the Temple of the Golden Basin is located in Tangrung village. The renowned Ta***ic yogi Lama Sonam Zangpo built it to bring peace and prosperity to the villages and to avert disease and famine. The two priceless nangtens (treasures) of the temple are the images of the thousandarmed Chenrezi (Avalokitesvara) and goddess Tara that Lama Sonam Zangpo brought back from Lhasa, Tibet. Beside the main temple, there is a stupa built in memory of his Tibetan master Drubwang Shakya Shri. A small community of nuns from Dungsey Garab Rinpoche’s monastery in Rangjung have been entrusted to look after Serzhong Lhakhang.

https://www.tashidelekmagazine.com/vignettes-of-life-in-rural-bhutan/

06/04/2025

ᴀɢʀɪ-ᴘʀᴇɴᴇᴜʀsʜɪᴘ ɪɴ ʙʜᴜᴛᴀɴ
ᴘᴇʀsᴘᴇᴄᴛɪᴠᴇ ғʀᴏᴍ ᴀ ᴘᴜʙʟɪᴄ sᴇʀᴠᴀɴᴛ ᴛᴜʀɴᴇᴅ ᴀɢʀɪ-ᴘʀᴇɴᴇᴜʀ
- 𝘍𝘢𝘳𝘮𝘦𝘳 𝘋𝘰𝘳𝘫𝘪

After a fulfilling eighteen-year tenure in public service, I found myself yearning for change— one that would let me continue to impact my community positively while forging a more profound connection with nature. Driven by a vision of sustainable living, I was compelled to take up farming, a vocation that promised to let me care for the land and provide sustenance for my family and neighbours through dedicated labour of love!

My public service experience was richly rewarding, marked by complex policy-making and addressing a diverse population’s conservation-related needs. However, I increasingly craved a tangible, nurturing way to contribute. I saw farming as a seamless continuation of my work, an arena where I could apply my expertise in management and community engagement to the stewardship of land and resources.

Driven by concerns for food security, environmental health, and a commitment to local produce, I turned to farming to embody my values of self-sufficiency, sustain- ability, and ecological integrity. The simplicity of rural life and the fulfillment of manual labour resonated deeply, making farming a conscious choice for a more grounded existence.

Building on principles from my public service years— community solidarity, hard work, and shared visions—I founded Happiness Farms to promote sustainable farming in Bhutan. At Farm 1 in Paro, we focus on Japanese pears, apples, and walnuts, known for their market appeal and quality. Farm 2 in Punakha diversifies with avocados, premium oranges, lemons, pineapples, and dragon fruit, meeting market demands and strengthening agricultural resilience.

We continue to expand our fruit selection while offer- ing unique experiences, such as traditional cottage-style accommodations, guided farm tours, fruit plucking, outdoor activities, and a farm-to-table restaurant featuring produce from our fields. Our innovative ‘Tree Member- ship’ program allows individuals to own and enjoy the harvest from fruit trees for a set period.

Encouraging Bhutanese youth to pursue farming requires addressing challenges and aligning with their aspirations. Key efforts include integrating modern technology, fostering entrepreneurship, improving education, promoting sustainability, increasing land access, and developing robust marketing strategies. Agriculture and rural communities are crucial for Bhutan’s vision of becoming a developed economy by 2034, driving eco- nomic growth, ensuring food security, and preserving the environment.

As Bhutan enters an era of transformative change, agri- culture faces new opportunities and challenges driven by technology, shifting consumer demands, and sustainabil- ity. The government’s role is vital in supporting farmers, fostering innovation, and driving growth, ensuring the sector’s long-term success and national economic benefits.

To this end, the government can implement several key strategies:

1. Providing monetary assistance with grants, low- interest loans and subsidies, especially to those with small- scale operations, to enable farmers to invest in modern technology and eco-friendly farming methods.

2. Funding innovation and research to discover new farming techniques, crop varieties, and animal breeds that are more productive and climate resilient.

3. Developing infrastructure such as roads, irrigation systems, and storage facilities to improve market access and reduce post-harvest losses.

4. Offering education and skills training to prepare farmers for modern, sustainable farming practices and marketing.

5. Improving market access by developing efficient supply chains, offering market information, and assisting with export opportunities to broaden farmers’ customer base and income.

6. Promoting sustainable methods like organic farm- ing and agroforestry to preserve the environment and ensure long-term food security.

Addressing policy challenges is also crucial for the ad- vancement of Bhutanese agriculture. Farmers currently contend with issues such as land fragmentation, which impedes effective land management and investment; human-wildlife conflicts, limited access to finance, which restricts the ability to improve farming operations; poor infrastructure and market access, leading to high trans- portation costs and limited selling opportunities; and climate and environmental challenges that threaten crop yields and productivity.

Empowering farmers is pivotal to overcoming these challenges. Education, training, and access to informa- tion can equip them with the skills needed to adopt modern farming practices, enhance crop yields, and di- versify their products. This empowerment is essential for the sector’s growth and the community’s prosperity. The changing agricultural landscape in Bhutan is opening new avenues for agribusiness and entrepreneurship.

The rise of organic farming, agro-tourism, and value- added products presents new business opportunities in agriculture. Initiatives like farm-to-table and eco-friendly processing align with changing consumer preferences, while e-commerce connects farmers directly with fair markets and informed buyers.

Preserving Bhutan’s traditional agricultural practices and heritage is vital alongside innovation. By blend- ing entrepreneurship, technology, sustainability, and indigenous knowledge, Bhutan can build a resilient and thriving agricultural future.

All in all, the evolving Bhutanese agricultural sector offers abundant possibilities for growth, innovation, and sustainability. By welcoming change, nurturing entre- preneurial spirit, and harnessing technology, Bhutan’s agriculture can flourish in the modern age, contributing to national prosperity and honouring its rich agricultural legacy. The time to initiate these transformative steps is now to ensure readiness for 21st-century transformation.

https://www.tashidelekmagazine.com/agri-preneurship-in-bhutan/
The Happiness Farm

04/04/2025

ɢᴏᴍᴘʜᴜ ᴋᴏʀᴀ: sɴᴀᴋᴇs, ɢᴀʀᴜᴅᴀs, ᴄᴏᴜʀᴛsʜɪᴘ ʀɪᴛᴜᴀʟs, ᴀɴᴅ sᴀᴄʀᴇᴅ ᴘᴀssᴀɢᴇᴡᴀʏs
- 𝓢𝓱𝓮𝓷𝓹𝓱𝓮𝓷 𝓩𝓪𝓷𝓰𝓹𝓸

Guru Rinpoche was an 8th century master of ta**ra. Among his many accolades, he is credited with establishing the first Buddhist monastery in Tibet and introducing the Dharma to Bhutan. In a lineage of formidable Buddhist practitioners and scholars, he was a giant among giants. As a master of such vast spiritual attainment, he conducted innumerable extraordinary feats to subdue forces hostile to the Dharma, enabling the sacred teachings to take root in the Himalayan region, where it molded the culture and established a system that can swiftly lead beings to awaken to reality.

Among these deeds, one of his most celebrated was the subjugation of a malignant force that was obstructing the spread of the Dharma in Bhutan. This manifestation of negative energy appeared in the form of a demon called Myongkhapa who had previously tried to prevent the construction of Tibet’s first Buddhist monastery, Samye.

After the intervention of Guru Rinpoche, Myongkhapa fled Tibet, taking up residence in present-day Trashiyangtse in Eastern Bhutan, where he continued to obstruct the spread of the Dharma.

Now, some sources claim that this demon was not a simple local deity who had adopted deviant views, but a former Buddhist scholar who had fallen under the influence of negative forces – a real-life Darth Vader.

With knowledge of the Dharma and skills in black magic, Myongkhapa would not be easy to subdue. Still, he would be no match for an accomplished master of ta**ra, and the Guru settled in a cave above a black rock where he was hiding, a site that is currently marked by the Gomphu Kora temple. There, the Guru bade his time, meditating while awaiting the entity’s appearance.

Sensing Guru Rinpoche’s presence, Myongkhapa attempted to escape. At first, he pierced a hole in a black rock to create an escape tunnel. This failed, and so he manifested as a ferocious snake, attacking the Guru. This attempt was also unsuccessful, and instead of being intimidated, Guru Rinpoche transformed into a garuda, swooping down and capturing him in his talons. Defeated, Myongkhapa not only abandoned negative deeds, but also pledged to become a protector of the Dharma.

Evidence of these encounters are still visible today.

The escape passage remains intact, and after being blessed by Guru Rinpoche was transformed into a sacred tunnel popular with pilgrims who crawl through as a means to purify negative karma.

Imprints in the rock bear the scars of the altercation that occurred between the garuda and the snake, while an imprint of the Guru’s thumbprint that was used to authenticate Myongkhapa’s pledge to submit to the Dharma is visible on the wall of the cave.

Gomphu Kora is also a repository of a number of other consecrated objects, such as a longevity vase from Maratika in Nepal. This was concealed in a rock by Guru Rinpoche, from where it emits a trickle of water on auspicious occasions. There is also a garuda egg in the form of a large round orange stone, which is on permanent display inside the temple.

As a revered sacred site, Gomphu Kora receives a steady flow of pilgrims throughout the year, but it is between the 8th and 10th of the second month of the lunar calendar, which falls on 5 to 7 April this year, that the area reaches peak vibrancy with the annual tshechu festival taking place.

In addition to inhabitants from other areas of Eastern Bhutan, the festival draws in over 600 people from Tawang in neighboring Arunachal Pradesh in India, many of whom endure hours of travel on foot amid rugged environs and with entire families in tow.

In addition to the chham mask dances that are de rigueur at tshechus, Gomphu Kora also hosts a number of events that are unique to this festival.

One such activity involves nine men and women attempting to carry a large rock weighing 200 kilograms around a sacred boulder, using only the tips of their fingers. The efforts involved in this activity are believed to create auspicious circumstances for the participants, while restoring the fertility of women who are unable to conceive.

However, the most popular activity is no doubt the night-time circumambulation of the temple. As the sun sets, hundreds of people carrying torches appear like fire flies swarming around a dimly lit temple.

In addition to generating merit, the ceremony serves as a courtship ritual, with the young participants teasing each other, often with insulting words regarding their physical appearance and features.

While this activity may fail to meet the approval of people who have been conditioned by Western-style politically correct values, the ritual is taken in typical good humour by the local population. Moreover, it has no doubt served to mix the gene pool in an area historically isolated from the outside world. In this way, it has contributed to preserving the well-being and strength of the local communities.

How should we consider these tales of demons and saviours? Are they fiction – a Himalayan version of the Lord of the Rings – or fact – a textbook account of historical events? Well, perception depends on karma, and so there is no one fixed way of viewing such events.

Think of a flat piece of wood with four legs as an example. To beings with the karma of adult humans who live in modern societies, it is a table. A child, on the other hand, might see it as a den, a place to hide. An indigenous person in the Amazon jungle may think of it as a boat, while a goat will likely see it as a place to stand. No-one’s interpretation is more correct than another’s. Ultimately, definitions depend solely on our karmically created view and are not fixed.

https://www.tashidelekmagazine.com/gomphu-kora/

24/03/2025

𝐁𝐡𝐮𝐭𝐚𝐧 𝐔𝐧𝐯𝐞𝐢𝐥𝐞𝐝
𝙱𝚎𝚑𝚒𝚗𝚍 𝚝𝚑𝚎 𝚜𝚌𝚎𝚗𝚎𝚜 𝚊𝚜 𝚊𝚗 𝚎𝚡𝚙𝚊𝚝 𝚒𝚗 𝙳𝚛𝚞𝚔 𝚈𝚞𝚕
- 𝘊𝘢𝘵𝘦 𝘒𝘦𝘭𝘭𝘺
I had never been to Asia when I decided to move to Bhutan. In all of my young wisdom, I thought it most logical to experience a new continent starting with one of its most mysterious destinations. As I read over the pages of my Lonely Planet guidebook, my eyes glazed over, envisioning smiling monks, stunning temples, and peaks covered in a fur of forest. Spicy chili dishes and ancient rituals pranced across my mind. Even the experience of landing in Bhutan inspires a sense of otherworldliness; tossed out of the clouds on Himalayan tailwinds, spiraling like a snowflake in a heart-stopping descent down past the maws of green mountains to Paro airport.

After living in Thimphu for a year, and traveling to more than ten different Dzongkhags (districts), first as a student and then as a media consultant for a local company, I can confirm that many expectations live up to the reality. Too many times to count have I shared a grin with monks in red robes on the sidewalk, gazed up at intricate Lhakhangs (temples), and had my breath taken away by the view (and the altitude) on top of distant mountain ranges. But beyond these familiar images, layers are unveiled over time. There is far more than what meets the eye, a complexity of culture, language, cuisine, and social dynamics that could take a lifetime to grasp.

Here, 108 is an auspicious number, reflecting the Buddhist essence of the Kingdom; although I can’t fit 108, I can offer you my eight takeaways from living in the Land of the Thunder Dragon, and invite you to experience the next 100 yourself.

𝐘𝐞𝐬, 𝐏𝐞𝐨𝐩𝐥𝐞 𝐑𝐞𝐚𝐥𝐥𝐲 𝐀𝐫𝐞 𝐓𝐡𝐚𝐭 𝐊𝐢𝐧𝐝
It is well known that Bhutanese are friendly, kind people, representatives of a culture based on values of generosity, sharing, family, and looking out for one another. I have found it to be true, not only with simple daily interactions but the ease with which you can create connections here. Most people are willing to talk to you, or at least ask questions with curiosity. Going deeper is a process that deserves attentive effort. Many are initially shy to talk about themselves, but with some polite inquiry, will open up like the uncorking of a bottle. People are funny, relatable, and open-minded. They will invite you for a meal in their home, a rice-laden affair sitting on the floor amidst warm rugs and low wooden tables. Hours later you will leave, full and sleepy with the warmth of a blossoming friendship. Talk to as many people as you can, and ask questions. They will share more about Bhutan than the pages of any book.

𝐓𝐫𝐲 𝐭𝐡𝐞 𝐋𝐨𝐜𝐚𝐥 𝐀𝐥𝐜𝐨𝐡𝐨𝐥
I’ve lived in multiple countries with party cultures: the salsa and rum-soaked dance floors of Colombia, the backyard bachata parties of the Dominican Republic, and the drink-the-cold-out-of-your-system gatherings in the high Andes mountains of Peru. But nowhere have I unexpectedly encountered the drinking culture that infuses Bhutan. From the strong local brew, called Ara, best experienced at homestays, to the beer on tap brewed in Thimphu and new wine shops, Bhutan is no stranger to alcohol. Try the wheat beer and the hot toddies on cold winter evenings, alongside the array of inventive local cocktails from bars in town, although K5 remains a crowd favorite. Enjoy in moderation- the altitude will get you before the liquor does!

𝐇𝐨𝐦𝐞𝐬𝐭𝐚𝐲𝐬 𝐌𝐢𝐠𝐡𝐭 𝐛𝐞 𝐄𝐱𝐚𝐜𝐭𝐥𝐲 𝐖𝐡𝐚𝐭 𝐘𝐨𝐮’𝐫𝐞 𝐋𝐨𝐨𝐤𝐢𝐧𝐠 𝐅𝐨𝐫
From Punakha to Thimphu to the up-and-coming Haa region, Bhutan is host to a lineup of vibrant hotels, including special eco-camps in the east and south. But homestays bring you to a whole new level of immersion. Before travelers were welcomed past the threshold, families really did, and do, live like that on a day-to-day basis. Fields are sown, crops are harvested, Suja and milk tea are served in rooms with intricate altars, and grandmothers gossip in the kitchen over stewing plates of datsi. Take advantage of the home-cooked food, unlike any you’ll find in restaurants, and enjoy the pristine surroundings.

𝐓𝐡𝐞 𝐋𝐨𝐜𝐚𝐥 𝐀𝐫𝐭𝐢𝐬𝐭 𝐒𝐜𝐞𝐧𝐞 𝐢𝐬 𝐒𝐭𝐮𝐧𝐧𝐢𝐧𝐠
Although traditional art, from paintings on the inner walls of monasteries to the architecture of clustered villages and ornate textiles is exemplary, local artists are up and coming- and you don’t want to miss out. From musicians to painters to singers, the local art scene in Thimphu and beyond is stunning. The creativity and passion being fostered, particularly among youths, is a beautiful reflection of the country they grew up in. It inhabits the spirit of Bhutan alongside the drive of younger generations to innovate and create. Stop by the VAST art gallery in Thimphu or Druk Pro for superb gifts made by local artists.

𝐓𝐡𝐢𝐦𝐩𝐡𝐮 𝐢𝐬 𝐔𝐩 𝐚𝐧𝐝 𝐂𝐨𝐦𝐢𝐧𝐠- 𝐚𝐧𝐝 𝐘𝐨𝐮𝐧𝐠 𝐏𝐞𝐨𝐩𝐥𝐞 𝐀𝐫𝐞 𝐑𝐞𝐚𝐝𝐲 𝐭𝐨 𝐖𝐨𝐫𝐤
Speaking of young people, the passion I see in my friends and peers to carve their own pathways in the working world is poignant. Entrepreneurship has kickstarted, from local products to new IT hubs and a large network of freelance videographers, photographers, and creators. The young generation is ready to take the world by storm, including feeding the private sector of the country with talent and skill. With the initiation of the Gelephu Mindfulness City project, there is no doubt that Bhutan will become a hub for eco-forward innovation and business.

𝐆𝐥𝐨𝐛𝐚𝐥 𝐏𝐚𝐥𝐞𝐭𝐭𝐞𝐬 𝐀𝐝𝐨𝐫𝐧
A Swiss cafe on the main drag. A Boulangerie on my way to work. A Russian bakery that overlooks the dzong- these are a few examples of the international culinary scene that has descended on Thimphu in particular. From Korean to Japanese to Russian and French, the classic Bhutanese dishes of Ema Datsi and Momos are no longer a traveler’s or a local’s only option. Global palettes are adorning Thimphu- don’t overlook the food scene!

𝐊𝐢𝐫𝐚 𝐒𝐡𝐨𝐩𝐩𝐢𝐧𝐠 𝐢𝐬 𝐌𝐨𝐫𝐞 𝐅𝐮𝐧 𝐭𝐡𝐚𝐧 𝐑𝐞𝐠𝐮𝐥𝐚𝐫 𝐒𝐡𝐨𝐩𝐩𝐢𝐧𝐠
The Kira is a floor-length skirt accompanied by an inner layer top known as the Wonju and an outer layer called the Tego. When I wore my first Kira, I needed friends to help me with the clips for a few weeks before I got the hang of it myself. It would always look ruffled and messy compared to how the Bhutanese girls clip it in with one elegant swish. Kira’s come in every color and pattern under the sun, and are thrilling and overwhelming to shop for. One could spend countless hours matching patterns, choosing fabric swatches, and painfully discerning which shade of pink goes with this shade of blue. It’s the most fun buying something you’ll ever have, with an end result that truly requires sweat, grit, and creative thinking. Beauty is pain.

𝐓𝐡𝐞𝐫𝐞 𝐀𝐫𝐞 𝐌𝐚𝐧𝐲 ‘𝐁𝐡𝐮𝐭𝐚𝐧𝐬’
Bhutan is not a land of contradictions as much as a bridge in itself: between ancient and modern, religion and politics, growth with conservation. Opposites intertwine, an eternal seesaw to achieve a perfect balance. Taxi drivers host mini Buddhas on their dashboards and the auspicious number of 108 is found everywhere, from bead count to the number of times to perform a certain action. It is a contrast all on its own, influenced by the outside world in ways it doesn’t always see, yet maintaining roots with an intense fervor. A multicolored coating of old and new, modern and traditional, mindful and heedless blur together into one green-hued tapestry imprinted with a dragon. Look for hidden layers in this land of mountains and milk tea- I can promise you’ll be curiously delighted by what you find.

Gated by the Himalayas, Bhutan initially felt like a strange yet familiar place. No traffic lights, no billboards, no meal without rice. Yet, shops sell (most) of the comforts of home, live music nights glow through the windows of warm bars, a global pop culture thrives, and an insatiable drive from the younger generations for new ideas, perspectives, and ways of living fill each conversation. Girls talk about their crushes and boys swagger in football shorts and baseball caps. Thimphu lightly pulses with the thrum of a city-town, stimulating enough to foster a population yet incredibly calm and quiet for being the country’s only hub.

The longer I live here, the more I can see my own culture from afar, like changing lenses on a pair of glasses and gaining an entirely new perspective. I am lucky to have been raised in a traveling family – based in the United States, we lived across South America for my father’s job. But Bhutan is the furthest I’ve wandered from home, half a world away from anything familiar. Somehow, a life has blossomed in various shades of a Kira, my routine molding around sleeping and waking and cups of coffee and the outline of the mountains through my window. There is magic in the mundane. I remind myself that there is more yet to see and learn and understand. Countries, like people, are eternally becoming.

https://www.tashidelekmagazine.com/bhutan-unveiled/

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Tashi Delek

The Travel & Lifestyle Magazine of Bhutan Inflight magazine of Drukair, Royal Bhutan Airlines

Tashi Delek is the inflight magazine of Drukair, Royal Bhutan Airline, published once in two months. It carries riveting pieces on various aspects of Bhutan written by the Bhutanese as well as foreigners. The Magazine is available globally through free digital subscription. The printed copy of the magazine is available onboard Drukair. The print run of the magazine runs as high as 15,000 during the peak tourist season. The magazine is any foreigner's first window to Bhutan.