09/12/2024
Bogan-free parts of Bali: Amed, Karangasem Regency.
This string of fishing villages along the north-east coast near Amed Beach, holds a South-East Asia beachside vibe of yesteryear. The main road has cafes, warungs and dive shops hidden in the tropical greenery and affordable accommodation overlooking the black sandy beaches.
Amed’s protected marine area has helped firm-up its reputation for excellent scuba diving, snorkelling and free-diving. The coastline’s sunken ships, including Japanese Wreck on the black-pebbled beach of Banyuning Bay, and The Liberty wreck at Tulamben, are easily spied with a snorkel and mask. Hire wooden catamaran reef boats to explore dive sites further offshore.
Break up the drive with lunch at beautiful Bali Asli, in Gelumpang village, 30 minutes from Amed. It’s an enchanting restaurant serving Indonesian cuisine in a pavilion with views over the rice fields to distant mountains.
Villa Adi, with rooms and family-sized pool villas, is just one offering of smaller guest accommodation close to main road shops and amenities. Head south along the coast for more resort-style options including Aquamarine Beach Villas which has its own beachfront and trattoria serving excellent Italian. Visit in the dry season (April and October) for calmer waters and clear visibility. Amed is a 98-kilometre, three-hour drive from Bali airport.