Cross Body Bag. I’ve made this one from Denim with a brightly coloured cotton lining. With a matching fully adjustable strap so it can be worn on the shoulder, across the body or as a sling.
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Please don’t do this!!
If you make a cross stitching mistake don’t ‘unpick’ the stitching by reversing the needle. You run the risk of catching the adia fabric and pulling it as I have in the reel. Instead unthread the needle and use it (or an unpicker) to lift the layers of the stitch until it’s removed.
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It’s Very Cool!!!
Have you tried an adhesive eraser?
If you find you’ve got adhesive on part of your card that shouldn’t have it. It feels tacky and will stick to the envelope and generally doesn’t feel or look good.
Any easy fix is to use an adhesive eraser. Give the area a gentle rub over with the adhesive eraser and the excess adhesive will be removed.
💡Be gentle if you rub too hard you might damage your paper.
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Simple but effective!
If you want to change your overlockers thread less, when threading put the largest spools on the loopers as they use more thread than the needles.
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Aida Cross Stitching Fabric.
There are a few types of fabrics that can be used for cross stitching Aida, Evenweave, waste fabric and some linens.
The most common fabric used is Aida which comes in all different stitch sizes the larger the number the smaller the stitch. For example if you see Aida fabric that says its 16 count it means there are 16 stitches per inch if the fabric is 26 count there is 26 stitches per inch.
For beginners I recommend 14 count as it’s easy to see the squares and you still get a really good image.
I’ve been cross stitching for over 30 years and I still use 14 count.
There are a lot of different brands and a good quality Aida does make a difference I like to use Zewigart or DMC. But an inexpensive alternative is Sullivans if you’re a beginner or want to try out something new.
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Keep die cut voids
When die cutting you’ll end up with cut outs, some times this is why you’re die cutting other times it’s because you want a void. When making an accordion card I need two voids. Rather than putting the voids in the recycle bin, I put them aside for another project.
In the reel I’m using a card stock void and a patterned paper void to make a decorative element for the front of a card. I’m using nested dies to cut them to the size I need. Now I have a decorative element without cutting into larger paper that could be used for a card base.
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Want to up your cutting accuracy!
When cutting out tight curves or awkward angles big scissors maybe not be the best option. Getting the best results from scissors generally requires cutting from the back of the blades and this can be tricky on tight curves or awkward angles.
Instead try a small rotary cutter it will work wonders for your cutting accuracy. The best part it can also be used to trim any straight edges too.
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Reuse Reuse Reuse ♻️
I found I was going through a lot of paper towel and decided to do something about it! My take on an alternative to paper towel is two layers of cotton flannelette (which I’ve found gets more absorbent the more it used).
I use them instead of paper towel for wiping spills off the floor and drying my dogs bowl after washing. Once finished I just put them in soak and then through the regular wash.
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Ever had your cross stitch project start to fray. All woven fabric frays over time and cross stitch fabric such as Aida is no different especially if you have a large project that is handled a lot (like my Trust project that took 4 years).
I overlock all the cut edges (I don’t worry about the selvage as that won’t fray). This protects the fabric from fraying edges and project especially as you need a boarder so it can be framed.
If you don’t have an overlocker you could do a zig zag stitch or use some fray stop - I’ve never used fray stop for cross stitching but think a light application would help to reduce the speed and amount the fabric would fray.
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Do you have uneven ink saturation when using a blending brush.
Load up the brush with ink, some people like to stamp ink onto a stamp block, but I like to just lightly sweep the brush over the ink pad.
Using circular motions with the brush start off the element on the scratch paper working towards the element. Continue these steps until you’ve saturated the project to your desired result.
It’s easier to add more colour saturation than it is to remove it. So I always recommend going lighter and the add more if needed.
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Want more time to sew?
Pattern weights can save you prep time so you have more time at the sewing machine. Pattern weights for simple patterns will save time, without losing any quality. In the reel this simple pattern piece took me 22 seconds to pin and another 12 seconds to remove the pins. In contrast when I used the pattern weights it took about 3 seconds to secure and remove. I was able to secure the pattern and cut out in about the same time as just to pinning.
Now this might not seem like a lot but added up this saves a ton of time especially if there are multiple pieces. If I have patterns that have curves or points I still pins, as for me I feel I get a better result.
If this was helpful please like ❤️ and save for later.
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Securing a cross stitch without a loop can be tricky, but this is how I do it!
Thread through the floss in the first arm but leave a tail at the back. Flatten the tail with your finger towards the row of stitches you will be completing.
When you stitch the second arm of the cross make sure the loop wraps around the tails. This will secure the stitches and keep the back of your project nice and neat.
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