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Kletter.training Klettertraining – Kraft, Beweglichkeit und Kontrolle für Kletterer, Boulderer, Ninjas, Artisten und taktische Berufe

"Klettertraining – Kraft, Beweglichkeit und Kontrolle für Kletterer, Boulderer, Ninjas, Artisten und taktische Berufe" nahm seinen Anfang als Udo Neumanns persönliche Materialsammlung von Trainingsideen und um den aktuellen Stand der Forschung von Kraft- und Beweglichkeit für das Klettertraining zu dokumentieren.

Hunting for mistakes on those almost 800 pages of Climbing Performance Coaching
03/03/2025

Hunting for mistakes on those almost 800 pages of Climbing Performance Coaching

Almost done with the writing, corrections, layouting and polishing for the next weeks…
02/02/2025

Almost done with the writing, corrections, layouting and polishing for the next weeks…

Layouting starts next week, Climbing Performance Coaching will be available February if nothing goes wrong 🤞
04/01/2025

Layouting starts next week, Climbing Performance Coaching will be available February if nothing goes wrong 🤞

Layouting starts next week, Climbing Performance Coaching will be available February if nothing goes wrong 🤞
04/01/2025

Layouting starts next week, Climbing Performance Coaching will be available February if nothing goes wrong 🤞

Climbing Performance Coaching in the Making
19/12/2024

Climbing Performance Coaching in the Making

Climbing Performance Coaching Inspo. Making good progress, just a couple of weeks more.
07/12/2024

Climbing Performance Coaching Inspo. Making good progress, just a couple of weeks more.

Easter 1984 - the first of many climbing trips to the Gorges du Verdon. A groundbreaking experience for me. I knew the c...
01/04/2024

Easter 1984 - the first of many climbing trips to the Gorges du Verdon. A groundbreaking experience for me. I knew the canyon from kayaking. It is about 25 km long and up to 700 metres deep. The rock quality is second to none. Most climbs are started by repping down to an often hanging belay from where you you have no other choice than to climb up to the canyon’s rim. I’m scared of heights, you’ll never see me standing close to the rim, but this anxiety produced some of the most astounding clutch performances I had in climbing. With climbers like Wolfgang Güllich and Jerry Moffat around, my drive for climbing reached new heights and for the nexts decades I spent a good part of the year in this fantastic vertical playground.

Performance Rock Climbing (1993) making-of1. Dale and me working on PRC, Hueco Tanks 1991 with our new laptops. I strugg...
08/12/2023

Performance Rock Climbing (1993) making-of

1. Dale and me working on PRC, Hueco Tanks 1991 with our new laptops. I struggled a lot! Couldn't type (still can't), US keyboard layout, MS-DOS,no (or complicated) undo etc. etc. Dale had to take me under his wings with all computer issues. Fortunately for us, technology developed quickly and we could send texts back and forth between the US and Germany during the three years of writing the book. It was an awkward process though, especially at the beginning with the 2400 beaud modem. I had to get up early in the morning to synchronize with Dale after typing in an endless string of characters. Sometimes the connection failed after transmitting half of the text. Would have been impossible without Dale being so tech-savvy!
2. Gerold (Gerry) Graw's fantastic illustrations helped so much with the story-telling of the book and its structure!
3. Me photographing Wolfgang Güllich a couple of weeks before Dale and I first met in the Verdon. I shot almost entirely on slide film (mostly Fujichrome / Velvia) to be able to do presentations and shows back then.
4. From 1992 on i took a S-VHS video camera to the US. This was the first video system (along with Hi-8) that made low-budget video production possible. A couple of years later DV cameras offered much better quality though.
5. A crucial personal decision i had to make before committing to the book. I just surprisingly had passed an audition with a prestigious dance company for Romeo and Juliet. We would have toured all over Europe in 1991. Imposter syndrome (I'm really not a good dancer) helped me with the decision to do the book instead.
6. Performance Rock Climbing has aged really well, many concepts presented are still up-to-date. Some things I would write differently nowadays, but surprisingly little.
7. Talking of concepts, Jibé Tribout, one of the best comps climbers of the nineties with his training journal.
8. Dale in semis of the first sport climbing World Championsships, Frankfurt 1991. We tried some funky ideas for his preperation!
9. American Fork was the place to be. Name the climb!
10. My proudest FA while writing the book, Hydra in Ettringen

Performance Rock Climbing (1993) in pictures. If you need inspiration for identifying the climbs, please read on -Dale a...
01/12/2023

Performance Rock Climbing (1993) in pictures.
If you need inspiration for identifying the climbs, please read on -
Dale and I first met in the Verdon in 1984 (the 2nd picture of my last post is from our first day climbing together). At this time even the newly emerged *Sport Climbing* was scary dangerous and we had epics every climbing day. A couple of weeks later Dale unexpectedly showed up at my place in Cologne! We have been friends since then, climbing together in the climbing areas of those times. While we were not massively different in climbing abilities when we first climbed together in 1984, Dale had become one of the best climbers in the world by the end of the decade.
I had to decide what my masters thesis should be about around this time. I’ll never forget - we stand in my garden, I propose what I wanted to write about *psycho-regulation for climbing*, (nowadays as hot of a theme as back then, thank you Dale!) he just replied:
*Yeah, … or - just write about something people find interesting instead!*
I have no recollection of why I followed his argument and wrote what should become the scientific backbone of PRC.
January 1991 saw me in SLC for an initial three month stay. Summer saw me back. Every project has a window of opportunity during which everybody involved (and I mean EVERYBODY! You know who you are) is motivated enough to follow through despite frustrations. After another three-month stay in spring 1992 with a fantastic trip to Smith Rocks, I became a bit pessimistic about if we would ever complete the book.
Instead of spending another summer in SLC, I went on a bicycle trip through China. Fortunately, unbeknown by me, Dale worked a lot and had made huge progress while I was away. After the break I was stoked again so that we finally, in December 1993, we could hold the book in our hands, along with a video by the same name.
Let me know if you’re interested in how we did it as far as research, illustrations, photography, writing and communication is involved!
(Those we different times for content providers, not that anybody would have known the term back then)

Performance Rock Climbing (1993) in pictures. If anybody gets close in recognizing the people/ the climbs or even the co...
30/11/2023

Performance Rock Climbing (1993) in pictures. If anybody gets close in recognizing the people/ the climbs or even the countries, I will post more about the three-year process of writing the book!

My first rock climbing trip to the US, forty years ago with After climbing not even for one years we felt experienced e...
28/09/2023

My first rock climbing trip to the US, forty years ago with
After climbing not even for one years we felt experienced enough to takle Yosemite bigwalls. The book Yosemite climber and the books and photos of Reinhard Karl was the reason I was fascinated with climbing after all! Our plan was to warm up in the classic areas of the time while hitchhiking across the US. Well, things went not according to plan and it still gives me shivers what careless idiots we were and how easily things could have gone terribly wrong on this trip. From getting robbed by raccoons on the first night to endlessly waiting for a lift, for traveling like we did you have to be young and ignorant. After hideous adventures we arrived Eldorado Canyon were we managed to get caught by violent storms during every climb. In Colorado we also finally realized that we needed a car. We got ourselves a Buick Belair that we drove without insurance to and around California. As you can see, we didn’t have friends (the only camping devices at the time) which, looking back, might have saved us from getting ourselves into even more trouble like for example climbing past the point of no return on Half Dome. I did the climbs and big walls that we attempted more than ten years later and was shocked about our arrogance. The end of the trip we stayed in Joshua Tree where it was way to hot for climbing but I fell in love with the place and made plans to stay for longer, what I did during the winter of 1985-1986, but this is a different story. Let me know if you have questions to the respective photos. Music inspired by the 10-song rotation radio stations played in the summer of 1983.

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