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Klettertraining – Kraft, Beweglichkeit und Kontrolle für Kletterer, Boulderer, Ninjas, Artisten und taktische Berufe
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"Klettertraining – Kraft, Beweglichkeit und Kontrolle für Kletterer, Boulderer, Ninjas, Artisten und taktische Berufe" nahm seinen Anfang als Udo Neumanns persönliche Materialsammlung von Trainingsideen und um den aktuellen Stand der Forschung von Kraft- und Beweglichkeit für das Klettertraining zu dokumentieren.

01/04/2024

Easter 1984 - the first of many climbing trips to the Gorges du Verdon. A groundbreaking experience for me. I knew the canyon from kayaking. It is about 25 km long and up to 700 metres deep. The rock quality is second to none. Most climbs are started by repping down to an often hanging belay from where you you have no other choice than to climb up to the canyon’s rim. I’m scared of heights, you’ll never see me standing close to the rim, but this anxiety produced some of the most astounding clutch performances I had in climbing. With climbers like Wolfgang Güllich and Jerry Moffat around, my drive for climbing reached new heights and for the nexts decades I spent a good part of the year in this fantastic vertical playground.

08/12/2023

Performance Rock Climbing (1993) making-of

1. Dale and me working on PRC, Hueco Tanks 1991 with our new laptops. I struggled a lot! Couldn't type (still can't), US keyboard layout, MS-DOS,no (or complicated) undo etc. etc. Dale had to take me under his wings with all computer issues. Fortunately for us, technology developed quickly and we could send texts back and forth between the US and Germany during the three years of writing the book. It was an awkward process though, especially at the beginning with the 2400 beaud modem. I had to get up early in the morning to synchronize with Dale after typing in an endless string of characters. Sometimes the connection failed after transmitting half of the text. Would have been impossible without Dale being so tech-savvy!
2. Gerold (Gerry) Graw's fantastic illustrations helped so much with the story-telling of the book and its structure!
3. Me photographing Wolfgang Güllich a couple of weeks before Dale and I first met in the Verdon. I shot almost entirely on slide film (mostly Fujichrome / Velvia) to be able to do presentations and shows back then.
4. From 1992 on i took a S-VHS video camera to the US. This was the first video system (along with Hi-8) that made low-budget video production possible. A couple of years later DV cameras offered much better quality though.
5. A crucial personal decision i had to make before committing to the book. I just surprisingly had passed an audition with a prestigious dance company for Romeo and Juliet. We would have toured all over Europe in 1991. Imposter syndrome (I'm really not a good dancer) helped me with the decision to do the book instead.
6. Performance Rock Climbing has aged really well, many concepts presented are still up-to-date. Some things I would write differently nowadays, but surprisingly little.
7. Talking of concepts, Jibé Tribout, one of the best comps climbers of the nineties with his training journal.
8. Dale in semis of the first sport climbing World Championsships, Frankfurt 1991. We tried some funky ideas for his preperation!
9. American Fork was the place to be. Name the climb!
10. My proudest FA while writing the book, Hydra in Ettringen

01/12/2023

Performance Rock Climbing (1993) in pictures.
If you need inspiration for identifying the climbs, please read on -
Dale and I first met in the Verdon in 1984 (the 2nd picture of my last post is from our first day climbing together). At this time even the newly emerged *Sport Climbing* was scary dangerous and we had epics every climbing day. A couple of weeks later Dale unexpectedly showed up at my place in Cologne! We have been friends since then, climbing together in the climbing areas of those times. While we were not massively different in climbing abilities when we first climbed together in 1984, Dale had become one of the best climbers in the world by the end of the decade.
I had to decide what my masters thesis should be about around this time. I’ll never forget - we stand in my garden, I propose what I wanted to write about *psycho-regulation for climbing*, (nowadays as hot of a theme as back then, thank you Dale!) he just replied:
*Yeah, … or - just write about something people find interesting instead!*
I have no recollection of why I followed his argument and wrote what should become the scientific backbone of PRC.
January 1991 saw me in SLC for an initial three month stay. Summer saw me back. Every project has a window of opportunity during which everybody involved (and I mean EVERYBODY! You know who you are) is motivated enough to follow through despite frustrations. After another three-month stay in spring 1992 with a fantastic trip to Smith Rocks, I became a bit pessimistic about if we would ever complete the book.
Instead of spending another summer in SLC, I went on a bicycle trip through China. Fortunately, unbeknown by me, Dale worked a lot and had made huge progress while I was away. After the break I was stoked again so that we finally, in December 1993, we could hold the book in our hands, along with a video by the same name.
Let me know if you’re interested in how we did it as far as research, illustrations, photography, writing and communication is involved!
(Those we different times for content providers, not that anybody would have known the term back then)

30/11/2023

Performance Rock Climbing (1993) in pictures. If anybody gets close in recognizing the people/ the climbs or even the countries, I will post more about the three-year process of writing the book!

28/09/2023

My first rock climbing trip to the US, forty years ago with
After climbing not even for one years we felt experienced enough to takle Yosemite bigwalls. The book Yosemite climber and the books and photos of Reinhard Karl was the reason I was fascinated with climbing after all! Our plan was to warm up in the classic areas of the time while hitchhiking across the US. Well, things went not according to plan and it still gives me shivers what careless idiots we were and how easily things could have gone terribly wrong on this trip. From getting robbed by raccoons on the first night to endlessly waiting for a lift, for traveling like we did you have to be young and ignorant. After hideous adventures we arrived Eldorado Canyon were we managed to get caught by violent storms during every climb. In Colorado we also finally realized that we needed a car. We got ourselves a Buick Belair that we drove without insurance to and around California. As you can see, we didn’t have friends (the only camping devices at the time) which, looking back, might have saved us from getting ourselves into even more trouble like for example climbing past the point of no return on Half Dome. I did the climbs and big walls that we attempted more than ten years later and was shocked about our arrogance. The end of the trip we stayed in Joshua Tree where it was way to hot for climbing but I fell in love with the place and made plans to stay for longer, what I did during the winter of 1985-1986, but this is a different story. Let me know if you have questions to the respective photos. Music inspired by the 10-song rotation radio stations played in the summer of 1983.

06/04/2023

Thanks for all the good wishes! Remembering some other birthdays, starting with ten years ago at the Boulder World Cup in Millau.

04/03/2023

HardMoves boulder league Super finals, ten years ago

24/01/2023

Subsequent to their many recent battlefield defeats by Ukrainian forces, the Russian military is now focusing on destroying as much civilian infrastructure as it can so as to kill as many Ukrainians as possible over the harsh winter. Yesterday they killed Ksenia‘s step dad. My heart is with her and her family.
There is no excuse in the world for the countless atrocities committed as a standard part of Russian operations. Over the last few months the Russian Duma (parliament) has been openly debating which European countries to invade once Ukraine has been subdued. Unfortunately the so-called West is too divided and too lacking in capacity to do anything other than sit on the sidelines and watch. Germany has admitted it lacks the capacity even to defend itself, never mind provide meaningful aid to anyone else, and Hungary’s Prime-Minister-For-Life Orban is so pro-Putin as to render Hungary’s membership of NATO a hollow joke.
Tyrants generally succeed not because of their strategic genius but because their adversaries are flabby, complacent, self-serving, and idle.
Ksenia‘s loss made it clear to me - Ukraine needs to be enabled to crush the invaders. Russia has to be stopped!

20/08/2022

Happy global climbing day everybody!

26/07/2022

The ability to detect individual affordances lies at the heart of climbing. Affordances are possibilities for motor action. Actions are possible only when there is a fit between your physical capabilities and the behaviorally relevant features of your environment.
Or, put in less fancy lingo:
The climber who finds the easiest way through a crux wins! Janja's smart sequence eliminates the crux the other athletes were struggling with.

10/07/2022

competence in crossing midline decides climbing comps

04/07/2022

different ways through this powerful crux, but only one to the top
M3 from the semis of the recent in Brixen

27/06/2022

2 more reasons why Janja is the best climber in the world
1. Crossing Midline / Bilateral integration
Bilateral integration is the communication between the right and left cerebral hemispheres, which allows the two sides of the body to move together in coordination with one another. The midline is an imaginary line drawn from the head to the feet that separates the left and the right halves of the body. Crossing this midline means that a body part, for example hand or foot, is able to spontaneously move over to the other side of the body to work there. On the brain level, the left and right hemispheres of the brain need to communicate well together in order to coordinate movement.
Competence in Bilateral integration and Crossing Midline crossing the midline dramatically increases a climber’s options in complex movement sequences for additional reach and following through across the body.

2. Anticipation /planning ahead / projecting yourself into the future
Just as chess players plan an attack several moves ahead, every decent climber does the same. Nobody has Janja's range and competence in this regard though. Here, her right foot is swiftly up on the hold.

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The ability to detect individual affordances lies at the heart of climbing. Affordances are possibilities for motor action. Actions are possible only when there is a fit between your physical capabilities and the behaviorally relevant features of your environment. Or, put in less fancy lingo: The climber who finds the easiest way through a crux wins! Janja's smart sequence eliminates the crux the other athletes were struggling with. #climbingcoacheseye #climbingtechniqueofthe21stcentury #leadclimbing #sportclimbing #climbingperformancecoaching #affordance #perceptionaction

competence in crossing midline decides climbing comps #crossingmidline #bilateralintegration #coordination #climbingtechniqueofthe21stcentury #climbingcoacheseye #bouldering

different ways through this powerful crux, but only one to the top M3 from the semis of the recent #ifscboulderworldcup in Brixen #climbingtechniqueofthe21stcentury #crimps #forceisavector #climbingcoacheseye #climbing #bouldering

2 more reasons why Janja is the best climber in the world 1. Crossing Midline / Bilateral integration Bilateral integration is the communication between the right and left cerebral hemispheres, which allows the two sides of the body to move together in coordination with one another. The midline is an imaginary line drawn from the head to the feet that separates the left and the right halves of the body. Crossing this midline means that a body part, for example hand or foot, is able to spontaneously move over to the other side of the body to work there. On the brain level, the left and right hemispheres of the brain need to communicate well together in order to coordinate movement. Competence in Bilateral integration and Crossing Midline crossing the midline dramatically increases a climber’s options in complex movement sequences for additional reach and following through across the body. 2. Anticipation /planning ahead / projecting yourself into the future Just as chess players plan an attack several moves ahead, every decent climber does the same. Nobody has Janja's range and competence in this regard though. Here, her right foot is swiftly up on the hold. #climbingtechniqueofthe21stcentury #climbingcoacheseye #sportclimbing #climbing #coordination #crossingmidline #bilateralintegration