15/12/2025
In his December column, makes a compelling fiscal point: “Quite simply, the best way to sell something is to position it next to a more expensive alternative. Upper limit modifiers are the most expensive wines within a given category. If managed correctly, they serve three highly important functions, all of which lead to increased revenue and happier
guests.
First is what is known in professional psychology as the contrast effect: People tend, however subconsciously, to perceive an item to be a superior value when there is a similar but costlier product near it. With few exceptions, most people won’t gravitate toward the most expensive wine in a category. Rather, its job is to make the next–most expensive wines feel like better values. To give an example, I helped open Le Diplomate in Washington, D.C.—one of the highest-
grossing independent restaurants in the country—in 2013. While I am absolutely against reserve lists (see my August/September 2022 column), one was required by ownership. In the early days, our most expensive reserve-list wine was in the low to mid-$400s, and sales from that list tended to average around $250 per bottle. After a few months, I began adding wines in the $600–$750 range; suddenly, the average reserve-list
purchase increased to the mid-$400s. A few months later, I added $1,000–$2,000 bottles—and wouldn’t you know it, the average reserve-list purchase jumped to
the mid-$700s.
It’s not that there was a sudden shift in the taste of our guests. It was that the more expensive wines served as a contrast to the next–most expensive wines, making them that much more desirable.”
Swipe to read more about this theory in action.