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The Nutshell Times Belgrade-based, globally-minded essays on travel, politics, life and Serbia.

A blog and podcast about journeys, physical and internal, with a sprinkling of cultural and social commentary.

Today is “Miholjdan” in Serbia, a minor holiday which is considered the beginning of autumn, but whose name is a testame...
12/10/2024

Today is “Miholjdan” in Serbia, a minor holiday which is considered the beginning of autumn, but whose name is a testament to how memory of long gone days is preserved in folk religion as well the religious fluditity in the Balkans. The Orthodox calendar today celebrates Cyriacus the Anchorite, a very long lived 6tg century ascetic, but whose name has nothing to do with “Miholjdan”. That is because Miholjdan gets its name from archangel Michael, a very reveared figure in folk religion here, but whose feastday is on 8 November (Julian, 21 November Gregorian) for Orthodox churches, but 29 September in the Catholic chruch - which is 12 Oct using old calendar. But why would Orthodox Serbs keep this name? One hypothesis is that folk religion simply remembers the old, pre-schism names of important days such as Michaelmass, the other is that Catholics who converted to Orthodoxy during the Ottoman times kept the memory alive

“We will go up there as soon as it opens and we will have tea, and all will be great - I promise!”I think I’ve said it e...
11/10/2024

“We will go up there as soon as it opens and we will have tea, and all will be great - I promise!”
I think I’ve said it every time - like a prayer - for a week as we were passing the traffic jammed Savska to Banovo brdo where I took her for her vitamin injections, basically a sham therapy to keep her spirits up, before the inevitable happened, which we thought we could avoid. It was while driving the part of that route around the tower, from Svetogorska via Kneza Miloša and Mostar to Sajam - where we were both to get our second COVID shot - when I read her test results which showed she had pancreatic cancer. I think it was during that drive that obssession with having tea in Belgrade tower started. Maybe it was later, but in my mind it started then. A banal, tacky fist up against tge fate, inspired by tacky banal Hollwood movies where we all overcome adversity through sheer panache. We didn’t but it was a way to keep spirits and hopes up right? That winter everything was crumbling and the tower was going up - gleaming and weird. My mom was one of the few people in my circle who liked Belgrade Waterfront, as it reminded her of Dubai - where we had tea with a view for the first time. I still intend to keep my promise. I will have a certianly overpriced, maybe, probably sh*tty, tea for my mom in Kula Beograd, or Belgrade tower or whatever it is called. It is through those drives and empty promises that is has already become part of my life - a fate certainly less dour than many others. It was later, trying to divine what else is in store, that I became interested in tarot and the meaning behind the tower - total destruction, despair. Still, it is my tower.

Aktivistički murali i “levičarski” manifesti u 2020im su gipsani tigrići i zlatni krstovi iz 2000ih za pobednike privati...
10/10/2024

Aktivistički murali i “levičarski” manifesti u 2020im su gipsani tigrići i zlatni krstovi iz 2000ih za pobednike privatizacije 👁️

The Catholic Archbishop of Belgrade is set to become the first Cardinal from Serbia
08/10/2024

The Catholic Archbishop of Belgrade is set to become the first Cardinal from Serbia

From the medieval days and the Great Schism, Belgrade had a sizeable Catholic population, and was for a long periods of time, part of the Catholic kingdom of Hungary and for two decades in 18th cen…

Some people say it is AI, but we know this is Banja Koviljača
02/10/2024

Some people say it is AI, but we know this is Banja Koviljača

🇹🇷⛲The Sagalassos Fountain, located in the ancient city of Sagalassos in Turkey, is a remarkable architectural work from the Roman period, built between the 2nd and 3rd centuries AD. Located in the Ta**us Mountains, this monumental fountain stands out for its elaborate design and the preservation of its sculptures. Originally part of a bath complex, it symbolized the prosperity of the city, which was an important cultural and commercial center in the region. Today, the fountain remains a tourist attraction, reflecting the legacy of a civilization that flourished almost two thousand years ago.

Credits Conocimientum

Megalopolis i The Substance su dva bitna filma jer su odlučila da se manje ili više uspešno bave bitnim temama a ne samo...
30/09/2024

Megalopolis i The Substance su dva bitna filma jer su odlučila da se manje ili više uspešno bave bitnim temama a ne samo da prčkaju sa formom

Malo o dva bajkovita filma sa velikim idejama - Megalopolisu i The Substance - kao i o BITEFu.

23/09/2024

The Pre-Raphaelite Pothole, Terrace Road, St.Leonards-on-sea, England.

Part of the 'Great Art, Great Potholes' series by SinkySnap

If you findyourself at the Belgrade fortress make sure you check out the exhibition of Serbian fortresses by Tvrđave Srb...
20/09/2024

If you findyourself at the Belgrade fortress make sure you check out the exhibition of Serbian fortresses by Tvrđave Srbije project. There is also a tiny exhibition of the Belgrade works of Nikolay Krasnov at which is worth a peek of you are into historictist architecture. I hope we follow Krasnov’s sentiment and rebuild all the most impressive fortresses around Serbia and make them into cool venues 💪

Novo doba dobrotvora i Lu, najgora predstava koja je u istoriji postavljena u Beogradu
17/09/2024

Novo doba dobrotvora i Lu, najgora predstava koja je u istoriji postavljena u Beogradu

Malo o dobrotvorima i njihovim zdanjima, od Kapetan Miše do Žeksa

If you like astrology you will love this
16/09/2024

If you like astrology you will love this

I decided to do a very scientific analysis using The Belgradist proprietary data. Dorćol: You were always liked and respected because you worked hard to be. However when you are best when you …

10/09/2024

Here we see a 1970s photo of the interior of the Museum of the Revolution in Novi Sad, Serbia, which was a institution opened in 1965 (created by Croatian Ivan Vitić) that was constructed to commemorate and valorize the events of (known regionally as the "People's Liberation Struggle" in Yugoslavia). In this photo, the central element of this exhibition hall is a massive stained glass window (6m x 4.5m in size) created by Belgrade artist Zoran Pavlović, a work that embodies the universal themes of "defiance" and the uprising against oppression. The art glass is particularly impressive in this photo as its illuminated panes reflect off of the polished stone floors of the museum. After the dismantling of socialist Yugoslavia in the early 1990s, the museum became defunct and the building largely disused until the complex was taken over by the Museum of Contemporary Art of Vojvodina in 2009. Sadly, when work progressed towards adapting the facility for the art museum, Pavlović's stained glass window was covered up to make more wall space for artworks, leaving it totally unseen from inside the museum and nearly undecipherable from the exterior. Hopefully, the stained glass can one day be revealed again to be appreciated by the public.

📸📸📸 This photo comes from the 1979 guide book "Muzej Socialističke Revolucije Vojvodine".

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09/09/2024

At the south end of the City Park of Priština there is a modest concrete memorial wall that had originally as its centerpiece a set of bronze sculptural busts of two Partisans, one of Montenegrin-born fighter Boro Vukmirović (1912-1943) and the other of Albanian-born fighter Ramiz Sadiku (1915-1943). These two fighters were both close friends during WWII, but were subsequently captured together and sentenced to death by the Balli Kombëtar. They were such good friends that they refused to be executed separately and, thus, were shot together while embraced at a remote location near the village of Landovica near Prizren. Their strong inter-ethnic friendship became a strong symbol during and embodiment the Yugoslav-era of Tito's philosophy of Brotherhood & Unity. A famous poem was written about Boro and Ramiz by poet Adem Gajtani that was known and memorized by nearly every child of Yugoslavia. This double-bust memorial complex was erected within the park in 1961 by a sculptor I've not yet identified. Sadly, despite the prominence and importance of this monument during the era it was created, I was not able to find any images of this site in its original condition from the Yugoslav-era. In 1999, part of the memorial was destroyed when the bust of Boro (the ethnic-Montenegrin friend) was forcibly removed from its setting by unknown persons, leaving a ruined jagged hole in the place of where the Boro bust was and leaving only the sculpture of Ramiz remaining. In addition, the concrete facade of the monument was covered in graffiti and spray paint, which persists to the present day.

📸📸📸 This recent photo was taken by ... thanks so much!

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Not the biggest fan of cocktail bars in Belgrade but mist say I judged them too harshly. I finally got around to  and th...
04/09/2024

Not the biggest fan of cocktail bars in Belgrade but mist say I judged them too harshly. I finally got around to and their amazing cocktails were only outshone by their even better service (shout out to Vuk!). Anyhow, there are the Belgradist approved cocktail bars.

Hard recommend:
Lenja buba
Jet Set (.belgrade )
Barić ( )

Recommend:
Belgrade cocktail club
Kultura
Pietra Kalemegdan
Bar Central
Idol
Pass: pretty much everything else

03/09/2024
Küsnacht: the home of K.G. Jung and beautiful village with a mission to be the best on the Zurich lake. We need more vil...
01/09/2024

Küsnacht: the home of K.G. Jung and beautiful village with a mission to be the best on the Zurich lake. We need more villages and towns with such ambitions. When there check out the Oxen pub (which paired up with Monocle cafe), Sonne am See and vin Burg bakery.

Severina’s detention at the Serbian border is the latest shot in the culture - or rather music - war between Croatia and...
28/08/2024

Severina’s detention at the Serbian border is the latest shot in the culture - or rather music - war between Croatia and Serbia

Written for Kosovo Online by Srdjan Garcevic, founder of The Nutshell Times

Wonderful venue for  . Hopefully we get more amazing concerts around
25/08/2024

Wonderful venue for . Hopefully we get more amazing concerts around

Eras tour might have skipped the Balkans, but the Balkans sadly did not skip affecting it…
23/08/2024

Eras tour might have skipped the Balkans, but the Balkans sadly did not skip affecting it…

Written for Kosovo Online by Srdjan Garcevic, founder of The Nutshell Times

Tom Wolfe is a great hero of mine and he would have a lot to write about the comedy of various boosters of Albin Kurti: ...
21/08/2024

Tom Wolfe is a great hero of mine and he would have a lot to write about the comedy of various boosters of Albin Kurti: from the DNC to the heroes of the Euro-left like Žižek and Piketty

Written for Kosovo Online by Srdjan Garcevic, founder of The Nutshell Times

In the olden times, growing up in Zvezdara, my dad used to get grub from JB in Južni bulevar (then bulevar Crvene Armije...
19/08/2024

In the olden times, growing up in Zvezdara, my dad used to get grub from JB in Južni bulevar (then bulevar Crvene Armije). I’ve forgotten about the place till recently when I met Džoni, its amazing owner and decided to revisit it. It is hands down the best place for gurmanska and it’s pirot schnitzel is a dream. A musr visit, especially as Južni bulevar is a vibe

Triumphs, consolations and everything else: sports photography 101
14/08/2024

Triumphs, consolations and everything else: sports photography 101

11/08/2024

British designer Thomas Heatherwick has taken aim at Le Corbusier and the "cult of modernist architecture" in a new BBC 4 radio series.

Chapelle Expiatoire, built during the Royalist restoration in 1820s on the spot where the bodies of Louis XVI and Marie ...
07/08/2024

Chapelle Expiatoire, built during the Royalist restoration in 1820s on the spot where the bodies of Louis XVI and Marie Antionette were buried, is not only a beutiful piece of architecture, but also a testament to the everchanging political and social norms. On its facade, the most prominent symbol is the winged hourglass, reminding those passing by of mortality as well as the march of time. Interestingly Proust’s flat was almost just across the road, so no wonder he was meditating on the lost time and changing social mores.

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Essays, photos and podcasts about the Balkans, travel, arts and life.