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26/07/2024

Issue 15: Naples has arrived 🎉

Now shipping worldwide from our webshop at www.faremag.com.

25/07/2024

Zsófi Mautner is a passionate diplomat-turned-cookery-writer and TV star – Hungary’s Nigella Lawson, if you will. We met her in her neighbourhood, District XIII, for breakfast at Babka Deli, a café-cum-deli and one of her favourite local spots. It serves familiar Hungarian dishes mixed with elements of traditional Jewish and modern Israeli cooking.

Zsófi (and all of us, frankly) were particularly keen on Babka Deli’s challah mákos guba, an indulgent poppy seed bread pudding, which is served with warm vanilla sauce to pour over while eating.

Read more in the Budapest issue of , available in print and digital editions via our webshop at www.faremag.com.

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24/07/2024

Daydreaming about Lima with ✨

Issue 8: Lima is available in print and digital editions via our webshop at www.faremag.com.

23/07/2024

If there’s one thing that Antwerpeners can really rally behind, it’s a restaurant like Ciro’s. Founded in 1962 by Albert De Herdt, and run since 2009 by Gène Haesaerts, Ciro’s is Antwerp’s last great brasserie.

The beauty of the original concept has been lovingly preserved by
Haesaerts. The restaurant has a very egalitarian air and a broad mix of clientele tucking into a classic French-Belgian menu. Think steak with fries or potatoes and a small tray lined with a half dozen homemade sauces. Chicken with tarragon and a chicken volau-vent with mousseline sauce.

There is also joy in little details: Filter coffee served in silver glasses, and a wonderful café glace (coffee ice cream) also served in a tall frosted silver glass, beside a gold-wrapped chocolate. It is a tremendously satisfying experience, and arguably the gem of the city’s dining scene.

Read more in the Antwerp issue of , available in print and digital editions via our webshop at www.faremag.com.

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22/07/2024

“The first pieces that I made in school had to do with graffiti because I was trying to move away from that world but for me, it was important to talk about it – in the same way that an artist from a village talks about snakes and paints snakes because that’s what he’s seen. It’s his worldview. Mine was urbanity, the streets, it was what I did, what I had seen on the walls of my neighbourhood. That’s why I have this sculpture of an aerosol cap; I made talavera vases but with aerosol cans embedded and graffiti tags. I’m actually just now revisiting this series because I think it shows exactly that transition from graffiti to ceramics. People only know my current work, but that earlier stuff is important to share.”

Born and raised in Mexico City, D**oberto González is a ceramicist and the owner and founder of Cobalto, a studio and workshop where students, artists, and producers alike meet and create in an open environment. We sat down with D**o to learn about his method, process, and latest work.

Read more in the Mexico City issue of , available in print and digital editions via our webshop at www.faremag.com.

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19/07/2024

“It’s easy to see why Budapest has been called the Queen of the Danube – sprawled across both sides of the river, with hilltop castles that illuminate at nightfall, the Hungarian capital is a spectacular sight. Zoom in closer and its long and complex history begins to reveal itself: once ruled by Romans, then Ottomans, then destroyed and reimagined after World War II, the city has seen its share of both tragedy and triumph.”

Read more in the Budapest issue of , available in print and digital editions via our webshop at www.faremag.com.

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18/07/2024

“Good moooorning, my dear friend Tiago! How are you? Do you know who is calling? Do you? Please come this Friday. Adelaide is making chanfana. You know that she makes a great chanfana, come on, come on. It’s a spectacle! I’m saving you a table.”

Joāo Gomes is the longtime owner of Imperial de Campo Ourique, one of my favourite tascas in Lisbon. He is perhaps best known for his ability to include the expression “É um espectáculo!” (”It’s a spectacle!”) in virtually every statement he makes. Everything’s spectacular for him, at least inside his premises. And indeed, most things are.”

Read more in the Lisbon issue of , available in print and digital editions via our webshop at www.faremag.com.

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Photography by

17/07/2024

“As a kingdom (Brazil) and two Viceroyalties (Mexico and Peru) flourished in Latin America, something special germinated in their territories— three centennial spirits: cachaça, tequila and pisco. These spirits, due to their cultural depth, constitute the fundamental pillar for the region’s three emblematic cocktails: the caipirinha, margarita and Pisco Sour.
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The Pisco Sour has, like its Latin American siblings, a high ease in its consumption that leads you to order one after another, but you have to be careful because it is almost a siren song. This perfect balance can be deceiving and the 6 ounces of pure pisco from a catedral may enter into the blood like silk. How many Pisco Sours should you drink? Let yourself be carried away by the Limeño experts: a catedral to flirt, two to fall in love, three to fight and four to cry. In light of this, drinking a catedral and a half turns out to be the measure of eloquence, good humor and good business.”
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Read more in the Lima issue of , available in print and digital editions via our webshop at www.faremag.com.
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Words by José Moquillaza Risco
Photography by

16/07/2024

“To each his own when it comes to the legendary torikahvilat, café tents on Helsinki’s market squares. Inside you will find the most democratic all-day breakfast—and coffee the farthest cry from a third-wave pour-over—of the Finnish capital. Luckily, we can still refer to these establishments, torikahvilat, in the plural. Nonetheless it is useful to know how to separate the wheat from the chaff—very few have kept it real and are worth the visit, even on cold and rainy autumn mornings when you really need a solid reason to choose a tent on a square over the warmth of an indoor coffee shop.

As I kid, I remember asking my dad to take me for “orange porridge.” There were no oranges involved; just the reflection of the torikahvila tents’ orange hue onto a plate of porridge—an aesthetic controlled by the City of Helsinki from the get-go to keep the torikahvilat as they’ve always been. The “orange porridge” was and still is a milky, perfectly savoury rice porridge served with the options of additional milk (on top or on the side), a “butter button” (a small portion-sized package of salted butter), cinnamon, and sugar. There’s no one right way to enjoy this ordinary and plain delicacy. There are variations as many as there are guests sitting on the red leather stools inside each tent. If you ask me—go all-in but skip the sugar.”

Read more in the Helsinki issue of , available in print and digital editions via our webshop at www.faremag.com.

Words by
Photography by

15/07/2024

Thank you to all who entered our giveaway, and to our lucky winner! It makes us so happy to see such an outpouring of love for Glasgow.

If you weren’t able to get your hands on a print copy, don’t despair! The digital edition is available in our webshop at www.faremag.com.

12/07/2024

“We always say that if our grandmothers were roommates, this is the food that they would be cooking. It’s looking at our respective food heritages and bringing them onto one plate.”

Norma Listman and Saqib Keval met as young chefs in California’s Bay Area and were brought together through a shared passion for exploring their families’ food history and wider issues of food justice, migration, and politics. We visited them at their newest Mexico City space, Mari Gold, in San Miguel Chapultepec.

Read more in the Mexico City issue of , available in print and digital editions via our webshop at www.faremag.com.
gold.mx
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11/07/2024

🌟 GIVEAWAY: To celebrate our Glasgow issue selling out (!) we’re giving away a never before seen or sold limited edition copy to one lucky reader!

To enter:
1. Follow
2. Tag a friend in the comments: one comment = one entry (no limit on entries!)

Giveaway will run from now until midnight BST this Sunday (July 14). We’ll pick a random winner on Monday! See comments for T&Cs.

10/07/2024

“Each balcony in Lima, with its pots of flowers and its waxed windows and its poetic girls, is a letter, a confidential poem; in the evening it is the lamp of memories; he has the love of beauties and the sanctity of coquetry. Lima is a harmonic reliquary with a hundred bell churches. It is a romance with its flowery terraces and viewpoints in the afternoon, its windows of dreams.”

Read more in the Lima issue of , available in print and digital editions via our webshop at www.faremag.com.

Words by José María Eguren
Photography by

09/07/2024

No dish speaks more to the heart of the city than the serving of pickled bonito called lakerda. In Byzantine times the bonito fish was so emblematic of local food culture that its likeness was minted on copper coins. Motivated by their desire to enjoy bonito out of season, locals began to salt and pickle it — a tradition that remains to this day.

We wanted to channel the dish’s origins in a refined setting, so we brought some bonito to one of Istanbul’s best fine-dining establishments, Mikla, which also offers some unbeatable views. There we watched as one of Mikla’s chefs, Adem Bogatepe, prepared both an elegant interpretation of lakerda **and a serving from Mikla’s own menu — a more modern take on the salted bonito.

Read more in the Istanbul issue of , available in print and digital editions via our webshop at www.faremag.com.

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08/07/2024

“The smell in the broad, dark staircase flew in our face. It was the smell of the city—cold, washed stone; dust; fusty air and something else, something which you cannot explain, which you immediately become used to so that you don’t even notice it, but which, if you return from the countryside, always has its own special effect.

I had come to the city in the early days of August, because it was too hot in the countryside and because there were arguably some things that I could use as excuses for my return. In fact, I missed the city, the smell of asphalt, metal dust and gasoline—that nervous longing that wanders the quiet streets in the darkening evenings”.

Read more in the Helsinki issue of , available in print and digital editions via our webshop at www.faremag.com.

Words by Mika Waltari, in “Suuri illusioni” (“The Great Illusion”), 1928
Photography by

06/07/2024

Good reading for good weather 🌞

04/07/2024

In a city now bustling with tourists, one has to pay attention not to miss the narrow facade of the restaurant beside the tiny alley that slopes up the hill. The door leads directly to a small room with a low stucco ceiling, filled with rows of small tables with red cloths covered by paper towels, formica chairs, a bar counter at the end to the right, and a swinging café door to the left which allows a glimpse into the kitchen. The air is filled with the sizzling, popping sound of spoonfuls of dough dropping into the deep frying pan, the rich, meaty smell of cachupa simmering on a big stock pot, cornmeal pirão (porridge) being beaten in a pan with a thick wooden spoon, sweet potatoes cooking in fish bouillon.

In its fifty-three years as an African restaurant, São Cristovão remains an institution amid an increasingly cosmopolitan Lisbon food scene. The many cooks that have worked the line in the tiny kitchen, women and men, hailing from Angola, Mozambique, São Tomé, Guiné-Bissau, and, of course, Cape Verde have each left their trace, and nowadays São Cristovão’s menu showcases dishes from most of the former African colonies – all with a personal touch of Tia Mento.

Read more in the Lisbon issue of , available in print and digital editions via our webshop at www.faremag.com.

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03/07/2024

A gloriously sunny shot of our very first issue, Istanbul, by ☀️

Available in print and digital editions via our webshop at www.faremag.com.

02/07/2024

“In 2018, I started working for and with Napoli Segreta, a musical research and rediscovery project focused on old funky-soul gems produced in Naples in the decade from 1975 to 1985. Over time, Napoli Segreta has become a DJ set, a series of musical compilations, and talks on the subject. For the release of Volume 1, I was tasked with creating a photo that was a variation on the theme of the iconic view of the Gulf of Naples with Vesuvius in the background. I decided to dig into my archive where I found a photo taken a few years earlier, when I was still an architecture student, from the top of the only skyscraper in the historic centre of the city. A classic view which still had an aura of mystery: a timeless postcard, yet flawed in its composition, with the volcano in the distance obscured by smog.”

Antonello Colaps reflects on his work as an artist, confronting identity and deception and working to construct a visual language that enriches rather than appropriates.

Read more in the Naples issue of , available to preorder via our webshop at www.faremag.com, and shipping this summer.

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01/07/2024

“Hours of browsing in all these places, plus the walk, required a lot of energy from my teenage body; the journeys to Montesanto left me content in the spirit, but empty in the stomach. That’s why they always ended at the opposite side of the street, at the Antica Pizzeria Port’Alba – supposedly the oldest pizzeria in the world – where I would have a pizza a portafoglio: the small, foldable, street version of the pizza, so loved by students, workers, and whoever needs a quick bite. And a cheap bite, too, which was the most apt choice for a young comic book fan on a budget. Tomato sauce, a small leaf of basil and just a hint of mozzarella: it could have been defined as a margherita at its bare minimum, but the purpose was not to replace a proper pizza, just to quickly kill the hunger.”

Giuseppe D’Angelo reminisces about the days he spent hunting for comic books in the Montesanto district of Naples as a teenager.

Read more in the Naples issue of , available to preorder via our webshop at www.faremag.com, and shipping this summer.
dixit
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28/06/2024

‟Tutto è azzurro a Napoli. Anche la malinconia è azzurra”

‟Everything is blue in Naples. Even melancholy is blue.”

— Libero Bovio

Read more in the Naples issue of , available to preorder via our webshop at www.faremag.com, and shipping this summer.

Photography by

27/06/2024

Known by the Romans as Campania Felix, meaning “happy, fertile land,” the region of Campania benefits from fertile soil enriched with volcanic ash. This area has been an important agricultural hotspot for thousands of years, informing the traditional Neapolitan diet. Piennolo tomatoes bursting with flavour, the bitter broccoli-like friarielli, Lacryma Christi wine from Vesuvius grapes, and mozzarella di bufala from Campania’s water buffalo are just a few of the stars of the local cuisine found nowhere else in the world.

Read more in the Naples issue of , available to preorder via our webshop at www.faremag.com, and shipping this summer.

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26/06/2024

“As we’re winding down a narrow side street of the Centro Storico, the dim noise of hammering - metal on metal - draws our eyes to the small workshop of Raffaelle Mercogliano, tucked into a small two-room space.

Raffaele notices us eyeing him at work, and he waves us in. An hour spent communicating in broken English and Italian gives us only a faint idea of his story, but a better glimpse into his energy, work ethic, and craftsmanship.

Signor Raffaele has done this work for some seventy years. He’ll soon turn eighty-one. He grew up on Via San Gregorio Armeno, about a five-minute walk away, and the workshop was originally his grandfather’s, later taken over by Signor Raffaele’s father and uncle, and then passed down to him.”

Read more in the Naples issue of , available to preorder via our webshop at www.faremag.com, and shipping this summer.

Words by
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31/05/2024

“I was born in Posillipo, and I have lived here for fifty years. This hilly district of Naples overlooking the gulf feels like a city in its own right. Bright, meditative, full of stories and life. From Via Catullo, a short distance from my house, I have seen the most breathtaking, stunning sunrises: incredible colours which, on certain days throughout the year, light up the sky over the bay.

I love taking a walk on the deserted side streets: the ancient pedamentine, vertical pedestrianised lanes that cut through the hillside. In the past they were used by farmers and fishermen making their way home from the seaside. These days they are mostly abandoned and little travelled. Even current place names maintain their age-old significance, deriving from verbs that mean “to go up” and “to go down”: Discesa (descent) Gaiola, Calata (descent) Marechiaro, Salita (ascent) Villanova.

Posillipo is my sea out of season, my lunch break escape. Some spots such as the small beach under the sixteenth-century Donn’Anna Palace, masterpiece of our coastline, feel stuck in time, in the era of the landscape paintings of the Grand Tour. Often I hire a kayak and I take my dog Nina along the shoreline for a slow paddle. Each time I discover a new detail, a new corner which I did not know, and I am grateful I was born here.”

Read more in the Naples issue of , available to preorder via our webshop at www.faremag.com, and shipping this summer.

Words by
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22/05/2024

“I seriously believe that Lille can be anything it wants to be. It is, at its foundation, a beautiful bakery: bright with huge open windows and tall white walls, its floorspace dominated by long communal tables. This is some of the best baking in the city. From bread rolls to sourdough loaves to sugar-dusted filled Berliner doughnuts to superbly laminated cardamom buns, and the best of what’s in season: everything from strawberry compote on buttered toast to a stunning pizza bianca whipped up fresh during service.
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But Lille is much more than the quality of its bakes: the team of chefs and bakers behind it, which is headed by Mia Boland, is also a passionate, open, and driven group of friends that shares a desire to turn Copenhagen into not only a chef’s city, but a food city.”
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Read more in the Copenhagen issue of , available in print and digital editions via our webshop at www.faremag.com.
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15/05/2024

Sunlight filters through the gaps in the metal roof of the Mercado de Jamaica, illuminating movement below with dramatic light and shadow. Upon entering, the first thing that hits you is the smell – cool, fresh, and sweet, a welcome respite from the polluted city outside. In the fall, in preparation for Día de los Mu***os, a golden-orange hue washes over the market as it fills to bursting with cempazuchitl, marigolds, which will be used in altars to honour the dead.
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This is Mexico City’s principal flower market, a densely packed jungle of both cut flowers and arrangements – some five thousand varieties of flowers and plants live a short life at the Mercado de Jamaica before being sold to local florists, or even exported abroad. The flowers, from giant white lilies to sunflowers to rose petals in every colour, will end up in Mexican weddings, quinceañeras, funerals, restaurants, and homes. Bags of dried jamaica – hibiscus – are available for sale as well, the deep purple flower that gives the market its name and which will be turned into hibiscus agua fresca or filling for tacos and quesadillas sold throughout the city.
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Read more in the Mexico City issue of , available in print and digital editions via our webshop at www.faremag.com.
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01/05/2024

When Ilona Sebestyénné Földes – known affectionately as Cica Néni, or “Aunt Kitty” – announced she’d be closing down Róma Ételbár after thirty years in 2019, her regulars were distraught. They mourned the loss of the tiny eatery, a neighbourhood fixture along Csalogány utca where Cica Néni served nostalgia-fuelled Hungarian comfort food. It was Cica Néni’s personality and charm – as she deftly recalled details from her guests’ lives, schmoozed with customers, and told newcomers quite frankly what they should be ordering – which helped generate a cult following.
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Thankfully, Róma didn’t stay closed for long. Young investor and former regular Dániel Andrusch intervened with a plan to reopen Róma and preserve Cica’s legacy and recipes in the process. The restaurant received a facelift but was also furnished with memorabilia from its golden years. Nowadays, Cica herself even stops by now and then to check in on things.
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Read more in the Budapest issue of , available in print and digital editions via our webshop at www.faremag.com.
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23/04/2024

“After an excellent meal, body and soul definitely enjoy a distinctive kind of happiness.” Rosenstein Vendéglő’s considerably sized menu begins with this quote by Jean Anthelme Brillat-Savarin, the author of The Physiology of Taste (1825).
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Rosenstein is Budapest’s bastion of Jewish-Hungarian cooking, opened in 1996 by Tibor Rosenstein, a Budapest-born chef and Holocaust survivor. The restaurant is very much the culmination of formative years spent in the kitchen alongside his grandparents, who raised him, followed by decades as a professional chef in kitchens across the city.
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The restaurant boasts a warm, casual atmosphere; however, it is the highly refined home-style cooking that draws in everyone from local regulars to casual tourists and makes it an ever-present item on every recommendation list – so much so that Brillat-Savarin’s quote appears on the menu in seven languages.
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Read more in the Budapest issue of , available in print and digital editions via our webshop at www.faremag.com.
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09/04/2024

Csaba Hegedűs and his partner Lászlóné Illés have been serving lángos in the Hunyadi tér Market for the past eleven years, but Csaba’s been making these ye**ty deep-fried flatbreads for decades, previously selling from a cart which he took around town. He learned from his uncle, who ran a busy lángos shop in the 12th District back in the seventies. Csaba was born on the outskirts of the city and, as a kid, remembers eating lángos as the first thing his family would do when going to the markets in town, and as a summertime treat when visiting Lake Balaton.
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Read more in the Budapest issue of , available in print and digital editions via our webshop at www.faremag.com.
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07/04/2024

Final day of our spring sale: use FARESPRING20 to get 20% off orders over £40! The perfect excuse for some early travel planning or armchair adventures.

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If you're like us, you can't wait to travel with Fare two times a year via the print mag. Introducing City Spotlights: new mini digital Fare guides to some of the cities we're dying to visit. Once a month, you’ll receive our Fare City Spotlight – a starting point for exploring some of the food, culture, and history from cities we think are worth a closer look. It's like a mini Fare magazine in your email inbox! Can you guess the first City Spotlight? Access the City Spotlights and other new content from Fare by joining our Patreon. Link in bio👆

You asked, we listened 🙌 Now you can access new, exclusive content from Fare – every week, all throughout the year. Whether you're a longtime reader or new to the magazine, you'll love the content we're creating for members of the Fare Patreon: monthly city guides, recipes from past contributors, curated city soundtracks, insider digests and more. What does it mean to join the Patreon? For as little as £3/month, you can become a patron of the mag, help us keep Fare in print for years to come, and access the new digital content. Learn more here: https://www.patreon.com/faremag Recipe preview: Olive oil braised green tomatoes with figs, from Cemre Torun

You asked, we listened 🙌 Now you can access new, exclusive content from Fare – every week, all throughout the year. Whether you're a longtime reader or new to the magazine, you'll love the content we're creating for members of the Fare Patreon: monthly city guides, recipes from past contributors, curated city soundtracks, insider digests and more. What does it mean to join the Patreon? For as little as £3/month, you can become a patron of the mag, help us keep Fare in print for years to come, and access the new digital content. Click the link in our bio to learn more. Recipe preview: Olive oil braised green tomatoes with figs, from @ceminers

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