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With the brand moniker of “products are made for all the people who are socially unsocialized”, the team behind Blackbir...
20/03/2025

With the brand moniker of “products are made for all the people who are socially unsocialized”, the team behind Blackbird looks to remain as anonymous and socially distant as a modern clothing brand can be. Stockist profiles list them as a company run by people who have been working in the fashion industry, top fashion houses/handmade artisans type, and led by a president who utilizes his knowledge and experience accumulated through his long involvement in fashion. ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
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Their S/S ’25 collection channels a garage-punk-meets-vintage-thrift-store mood, infused with the spirit of youth subcultures—gritty but with character. There’s a nostalgic callback to late-’80s/’90s underground music scenes, evident in the choice of worn textures, muted lighting, and DIY fashion cues. This combination (slide 1) includes a rustic suede vest with a woven, tapestry-like textile featuring tribal and folkloric motifs. Overshirts and loose tailoring in checked or plaid patterns use brushed cotton or wool blends, contributing to the relaxed, utilitarian layering.
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Stockists like White Owl in Saitama have begun to take delivery of this collection.
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styling @ kyoichi akaba
photography
hair
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pr

refomed and head designer Yoshiki Ando returns for S/S ’25 with another collection that leans heavily into a post-rural,...
19/03/2025

refomed and head designer Yoshiki Ando returns for S/S ’25 with another collection that leans heavily into a post-rural, utilitarian vibe with modern streetwear sensibilities.
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One of the collection’s key elements is creative layering, where technical, casual, and formalwear pieces coexist—e.g., neon sleeves under sports jerseys or ties beneath bomber jackets. There’s a strong play of contrasts, mixing vintage Americana, military vibes (camo jacket), corporate uniformity (tie and shirt combo), and streetwear (oversized silhouettes and sporty graphics). The leather jacket and pants are a collab with CCU, known for their specialty with the material; they are made of sheepskin to provide a soft and lightweight touch yet durable feel.
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Launched this year by ex-N.Hoolywood pattern-maker Hikaru Watanabe, .s.m.l_official presents its inaugural collection fo...
17/03/2025

Launched this year by ex-N.Hoolywood pattern-maker Hikaru Watanabe, .s.m.l_official presents its inaugural collection for S/S ’25.
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Director 
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Creative Director 
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S/S ‘25 Looks•
04/01/2025

S/S ‘25 Looks
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A/W ‘24 -Coming off their contract work for doublet, Undercover, and BED j.w. FORD, Kijima and team deliver their A/W c...
02/01/2025

A/W ‘24 -Coming off their contract work for doublet, Undercover, and BED j.w. FORD, Kijima and team deliver their A/W collection to stores. 
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Highlights include this (slide 1) felt folded brim hat, which is handmade out of rabbit hair felt. This (slide 6) polyester faux “eco-fur” hood has a Thinsulate lining and can be tied with spindle drawcords for cold weather functionality. 

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direction/styling: Tetsuro Nagase
edit: Hiroshi Kagiyama
photography: Kazuki Nagayama
h/mu: Yuko Aoi/Kie Kiyohara
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I originally covered designer Takaaki Shimase when he worked alone on his brand tac:tac. Now, he’s teamed up with patter...
02/01/2025

I originally covered designer Takaaki Shimase when he worked alone on his brand tac:tac. Now, he’s teamed up with pattern maker Kota Shimamura and repositioned his design profile to incorporate both sexes. Titled i’m here :, the duo is in their fourth season together and is looking to join the band of fellow androgynous JP brands. 
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A/W ’24 -Complete with a primarily monochrome and earthy color scheme, shades of green, brown, and blue fuse with a mix of materials like heavy cotton and structured wool in voluminous silhouettes. Overall, the styling emphasizes a modern and unisex approach, characterized by comfort and subtle design quirks that add a distinctive edge to otherwise straightforward pieces.
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A/W ‘24 Looks••
29/10/2024

A/W ‘24 Looks
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A/W ‘24 -After the SS23 collection, it was announced that a new designer would lead the brand. Unfortunately, during th...
28/10/2024

A/W ‘24 -After the SS23 collection, it was announced that a new designer would lead the brand. Unfortunately, during the summer of this year, it was announced that Kaito passed away due to a brain tumor.
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RIP
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Launching his brand in 2015, designer SYU set out to create a “double-edged” menswear brand that could cater to a youthf...
25/10/2024

Launching his brand in 2015, designer SYU set out to create a “double-edged” menswear brand that could cater to a youthful identity and another for the slightly more mature sensibility wearer.
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The imagery for A/W ’24 reflects a bold and experimental fashion aesthetic, with streetwear elements, deconstruction, and avant-garde influences. The designs emphasize oversized and unconventional silhouettes, with elongated coats, wide-leg pants, and layered looks that combine fitted and loose elements. There’s a strong focus on asymmetry and unique tailoring techniques, often playing with proportions.
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Hirokazu Fujiwara and his label roundabout showcase another utilitarian yet contemporary collection for A/W ’24. This se...
07/09/2024

Hirokazu Fujiwara and his label roundabout showcase another utilitarian yet contemporary collection for A/W ’24. This set (slide 3), features a rich burgundy corduroy material sporting a soft and textured appearance, complementing a relaxed fit with a drawstring waist cord, zip front, flat collar, and slightly dropped shoulders, creating a casual yet structured look.
•official A/W ‘24
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Originating from a circular knitting company established in 1964—Kanemasa Knitting Co. in Wakayama Prefecture, Japan’s l...
30/08/2024

Originating from a circular knitting company established in 1964—Kanemasa Knitting Co. in Wakayama Prefecture, Japan’s largest producer of knitted fabrics. KANEMASA, established in 2021, manufactures its goods using the company’s traditional high-gauge knitting machines or Jacquard machines, showcasing a dedication to preserving and evolving the process and craftsmanship while overseeing the entire production process. 

A/W ’24 presents fitted and voluminous silhouettes that offer a contemporary, versatile aesthetic. Their new jumpsuit uses a high-density typewriter knit structure made on a 36-gauge circular knitting machine with ultra-fine, non-mulesing wool. The fabric undergoes a shrinking process to create a soft, high-guage melton texture, remaining stretchy and smooth. It retains wool’s natural properties and is washable at home, ultimately emphasizing both comfort and sustainable, humane wool sourcing.
•official A/W ‘24
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CCU and designer Tsubasa Kaneko present their leather-clad creations for A/W ’24. With a blend of minimalist and oversiz...
28/08/2024

CCU and designer Tsubasa Kaneko present their leather-clad creations for A/W ’24. With a blend of minimalist and oversized silhouettes, the styling focuses on muted tones, emphasizing texture and proportion, creating a modern and subtle luxury look. Minute details like pleats, cinch tabs, color fading, and relaxed shoulders allow the leather material to be the star of each piece, offering a polished yet understated aesthetic.
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Designer Taiga Takahashi launched his namesake label in NYC in 2017. Before that, Takahashi attended the London Internat...
27/08/2024

Designer Taiga Takahashi launched his namesake label in NYC in 2017. Before that, Takahashi attended the London International School of Art and Design, eventually graduating from Central Saint Martins while working as a design assistant for fashion houses in Antwerp and London.
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Takahashi began collecting true vintage clothing from 70-100 years ago, during his teen years, through overseas antiques and art dealers. Through his collection, he formed the ethos of the label “unearthing archaeological remains of the future by reviving relics of the past.”
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In 2021, Takahashi moved all operations to JP. Unfortunately, in the spring of 2022, he suddenly passed away due to a fatal cardiac arrhythmia. The brand continues to thrive, with his team producing collections domestically in JP and expanding upon Takahashi’s ethos by creating art and photography installations from his collections.
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For A/W ’24, the collection features wide-legged trousers paired with jackets and sweaters, creating a relaxed yet structured look. The loose, comfortable fit is a key characteristic, evoking a sense of vintage workwear or early 20th-century styles. The color palette is a dominant mix of black, grey, and perhaps dark browns, largely enhancing the label’s timeless and understated feel.
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New items available now on the Shop page. ••
16/08/2024

New items available now on the Shop page.
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A/W ‘24 - Designed by Ryona Tani, INNAT launched in 2021, gaining experience in planning departments and then as a free...
15/08/2024

A/W ‘24 - Designed by Ryona Tani, INNAT launched in 2021, gaining experience in planning departments and then as a freelance designer in 2020. With an emphasis on natural dyes and domestic production, the brand delivers what’s expected of such.
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“In an effort to combat overproduction and reduce our environmental impact, we choose to garment-dye our pieces using vegetable dyes. 
These hues, sourced from nature’s abundance, can softly refract light, resulting in colours with remarkable depth.

In Collection 05, we’ve employed shades extracted from onion (pink), coffee (beige), mulberry leaf or green leaves (green), and charcoal (black). 
We’ve also expanded our technique to include hand-dyeing with Bengala mud dyes. We invite you to appreciate the inherent beauty of hand-dyeing, which often leads to intriguing colour irregularities and a unique depth in appearance.”
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S/S 24 ••
16/05/2024

S/S 24
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A/W ‘24 -Shohei Kimura launched RICE NINE TEN in 2017. Before that, he gained initial fashion experience working as an ...
14/05/2024

A/W ‘24 -Shohei Kimura launched RICE NINE TEN in 2017. Before that, he gained initial fashion experience working as an assistant for the now defunct—but one of the early contributors to urbane/androgynous style—label Pleasure Principle. Looking to continue that motif, in 2010, Shohei-san moved to JP and created his first independent unisex brand, Pourton De Moi. Fast-forward to today and RNT is again a progenitor in the knitted shirt/sweater sector. Albeit he has moved some production over to CN—while others have strictly used JP factories—Shohei continues to prove his au fait in this crazy-ass fashion world, mane.
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S/S ‘24 -Online Now••
03/05/2024

S/S ‘24 -Online Now
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