16/05/2024
S/S 24
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14/05/2024
A/W ‘24 -Shohei Kimura launched RICE NINE TEN in 2017. Before that, he gained initial fashion experience working as an assistant for the now defunct—but one of the early contributors to urbane/androgynous style—label Pleasure Principle. Looking to continue that motif, in 2010, Shohei-san moved to JP and created his first independent unisex brand, Pourton De Moi. Fast-forward to today and RNT is again a progenitor in the knitted shirt/sweater sector. Albeit he has moved some production over to CN—while others have strictly used JP factories—Shohei continues to prove his au fait in this crazy-ass fashion world, mane.
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03/05/2024
S/S ‘24 -Online Now
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30/04/2024
S/S ‘24
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stylist: kyoichi akaba
photography
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24/04/2024
A/W ‘24 - Hideaki Shikama gained initial fashion recognition while designing a few one-off pieces for BEAMS in Tokyo. He and his then-atelier partner Naoto Yoshida ( made reconstructed and patchwork denim and jackets from vintage and deadstock fabrics. This was the beginning of their BEAMS partnership, but the duo had been producing these unique pieces since 2011. The wider IG audience of BEAMS catapulted the label into the mainstream and turned them into a ripened outfit, now able to expand on their influences and design ethos.
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Today, the brand has been featured in almost every major publication, online & print, has trusted wholesale partners across the globe, and has collabed with artists and brands to impel further their ethos of “updated & upcycled.” Featured below is the latest of these collabs, this season with heritage rugby label Umbro. Lately, Umbro has produced a series of collabs to resubmit the brand to the cool kids club, they’ve done well so far.
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18/04/2024
x “Super Dad Fit”
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16/04/2024
A/W ‘24 -After graduating from Bunka Fashion College and then gaining working knowledge as a pattern-maker at Comme des Garçons for three years, designer Mahito-san incorporated his own label in the S/S season of ’23. The design ethos is straightforward yet complex, with the goal of creating “clothing that crosses cultures,” fusing culture, thought, and tradition into his idea of modern ethnic clothing.
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photographer .yatagai
h/mu
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10/04/2024
A/W ‘24 - Designed by Shunta Sakai, who, before recently incorporating paratrait, studied at Bunka Fashion College and then moved to the UK to complete a master’s degree at Istituto Marangoni, London. He then worked as a womenswear designer for Alexander McQueen and Burberry, subsequently returning to Japan to establish a design office and begin providing designs for domestic and international brands, currently contracted to design for DAIWA.
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26/03/2024
S/S ‘24
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23/03/2024
S/S ‘24 - Designed by Yoshiki Ando, refomed incorporated in 2020 after the designer graduated from Vantan Design Institute in Tokyo. Yoshiki-san’s goal is to develop collections that include various categories like workwear and traditional Western and military garb.
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This “Kinchaku” anorak (slide 2) is constructed from a highly uneven linen thread, characterized by a bumpy surface and supple firmness to the pull. The name references the popular drawstring bag used to carry personal possessions in JP, here used as a detachable version for extra shirt storage. Most of the B.D. Shirts have a wide cut to them, dropped shoulders, four tucks on the backline providing a more voluminous silhouette, wide armholes for layering sweats and knits, and come in a variety of materials including organic ripstop cotton, chambray made of rope-dyed white cotton threads known for changing over time like denim, and an oxford material woven with threads of different counts in the vertical and horizontal directions; characterized by its lightly piece-dyed color.
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20/03/2024
S/S ‘24 - gim context is a relatively new brand, and from what I can find online, it has been a knitting manufacturer in Harajuku since 1965. Then, recently, have joined forces with a designer or team of external designers to create the brand gim co., ltd.
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31/01/2024
A/W ‘23 - I’m not 100% sure who’s behind everything, but the team over at COBACHI—with their Chai tea .chai.tokyo, curry , and clothing shops—is keeping themselves busy. It looks as if the curry shop is the anchor to this setup, established first or possibly simultaneously as the clothing brand Ryu.
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Designer Ryuka Kimura gained most of his design experience internationally, working for Anne-Sophie Back in the U.K. after living in Russia for a short time. Then, in 2008, after having the brand for a few years, he opened his first storefront in Osaka, and shortly after that, he opened one in Tokyo as well.
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My standout piece from the collection is this (slide 2) tie-up bomber-style jacket. The wool-like fabric is loosely woven using thick double yarns, creating a sturdy construction yet retaining a soft texture. Insulated with Thinsulate material and individually embroidered details are included on the collar and ties.
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photographer
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Full campaign online now
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30/01/2024
A/W ‘23 - Established in 2016, hatmakers Solaris & Co. present their A/W ’23 collection with a casual RTW offering to go along with.
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Highlights from the range include the iterations of newsboy caps in beautifully aged cow (slide 3) and horsehide leather (slide 9), and this (slide 6) version features a combination of horsehide and Haraco leather. This (slide 2) knitted hunting cap comprises 41/41/18 cotton, poly, and h**p, creating a lofty, breathable material that is comfortable and stylish enough to wear in all seasons.
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View the collection in full online now
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08/01/2024
S/S ‘24 - Taiki Kato studied fashion design at Kingston University in London; upon graduating, he began working for Nicholas Daley as a designer and eventually worked his way up to senior designer. Then, in 2021, Taiki returned to Japan and established ENCOMING, showcasing their first collection during S/S ’21.
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Full campaign online now
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h/mu
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03/01/2024
S/S ‘24
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photographer
model .17
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03/01/2024
.official S/S ‘24 - Originating from a circular knitting company established in 1964—Kanemasa Knitting Co. in Wakayama Prefecture, Japan’s largest producer of knitted fabrics. KANEMASA, established in 2021, manufactures its goods using the company’s traditional high gauge knitting machines or Jacquard machines, showcasing a dedication to preserving and evolving the process and craftsmanship while overseeing the entire production process.
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The S/S ‘24 collection features relaxed items with a processed look faded by the sun and sea breeze and coloring inspired by 90s preppy fashion brand advertisements. From super high gauge knit shirts with fresh stripes and classic multi-stripe patterns to heavyweight sweat items with an open, tropical feel based on the company’s original Suvin recycled organic cotton yarns, the colors and fits of past staples are renewed this season.
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Full campaign online now
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05/12/2023
A/W ‘23 - Daichi Ogata began his fashion career at Bunka Fashion College; after graduating, he earned money by patternmaking and drafting at a men’s custom suit shop, simultaneously making full women’s garments at home during his off-hours. FW ’19 Daichi-san released his first collection of all womenswear garments with a slight tailoring and military visage. Over time, the collections have leaned androgynous, but for AW ’23, the label utilizes a male model, subsequently drawing in that customer base while staying true to his ethos. Great to see.
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01/12/2023
.official S/S ‘24 - Born in Kyoto, Satoshi Kuwata moved to London at twenty-one to pursue his fashion designer dream. A graduate of CSM, Satoshi has accrued more than 15 years of experience in the fashion industry. Throughout college, Satoshi worked for Huntsman & Sons in Savile Row, where he learned to master his tailoring skills. Following graduation in 2011, Satoshi started his career in London, working for Gareth Pugh and Ye. Immediately after that, he was hired by Givenchy in Paris for womenswear design, and he then moved to New York to be the design director for Edun. Finally, before launching his brand in 2019, he worked as the creative director of Golden Goose Luxury Brands in Milan.
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h/mu
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31/10/2023
Launched in 2019, and its designer, Fumio Sakai, have made steady strides despite launching during the pandemic’s beginning. A strong eye and what I assume is a knowledgeable fashion background have contributed to this respectable showcasing for A/W ’23.
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27/09/2023
.jp — Founded in 2006 by designer Tomohiro Ishibashi. Apparently they have their own factory in Osaka where they create new designs and remake pieces with vintage apparel and fabrics.
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View the full collection online now.
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photographer:
h/mu:
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17/09/2023
The latest A/W ‘23 picks have landed on the shop page online. Link in bio to shop
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24/08/2023
Tsutom Matsufuji incorporated his namesake label in 2020 with a planning, production, and sales background. According to Tsutom-san, the brand takes the simplistic elements from workwear and injects its design identity with quality construction and fabrication.
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Notable examples in this collection would start with this (slide 5) MA-1 style jacket constructed with a medley of synthetic fabrics and 11% wool. It features a leaf jacquard pattern knitted into the fabric with an oversized silhouette, large, off-set zipper, and matching military-style trousers. This (slide 3) cardigan is crafted from a blend of 65/20/15, wool/angora/nylon. Making it very soft to the touch and subsequently comfortable to wear all day.
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Check out the full collection online.
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photography: styling: hair:
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18/08/2023
Naohiro Fujisaki founded his brand meanswhile in 2014, won the Tokyo New Fashion Designer Award in 2016, the Tokyo Fashion Award in 2020, and expanded wholesale opportunities worldwide soon after. Now, the label looks to cement its name in the RTW realm with a collection focusing more on tailored pieces with a familiar hint of technicality.
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design: Naohiro Fujisaki
production: Masataka Hattori
photography: Toshio Ohno .h.n.o
styling:
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17/08/2023
A/W ‘23
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designer
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styling
h/mu
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View the complete collection online now.
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17/08/2023
A/W ‘23 Runway Edits
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styling
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h/mu
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16/08/2023
Led by designer Tomoaki Okaniwa beginning in 2020, presents another signature collection for A/W ’23.
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If you’re not familiar with Tomoaki-san, his primary brand should ring a bell. Tomoaki-san’s history within the Japanese fashion scene runs deep — beginning with a fine arts degree at Tokyo Zoukei University and then changing his medium from canvas to body. He starts designing womenswear in the late 80s, presenting it in underground scenes around Tokyo. Eventually, this leaves him wanting to create clothes for himself and the likes; thus, The Virdi Anne was born in 2001.
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View the campaign in full online.
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09/07/2023
S/S ‘24 Runway Edits
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design
casting/styling .jp
pr
hair
m/u
fitting team
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06/07/2023
S/S ‘23 Edits
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design
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styling
h/mu
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06/07/2023
S/S ‘23 Details
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28/06/2023
Daisuke Maki began testing his fashion designing prowess after graduating from fashion school in Tokyo. Initially, buying for a small boutique in Harajuku and then as a merchandiser for another brand. In 2013, he teamed up with a few other JP creatives and launched the now-defunct brand Salvy. As the brand director, he saw opportunities that the rest of the team either needed to see or were unprepared for. Therefore, in 2019 Daisuke-san launched to bolster his relationships with his fabric and manufacturing partners while creating long-lasting designs that act as uniforms for the wearer.
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View the full collection online now. LINK IN BIO
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