Rama Harvesting Group

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Rama Harvesting Group A group in Rama First Nation focussed on harvesting & environmental issues.

28/10/2023
18/10/2023

Space is limited! Register to attend in-person in or via ZOOM session. Contact [email protected]

7th Annual Hide Camp: October 23-27 | 9 AM – 4:30 PM EST - join us in learning about hide tanning practices and teachings.

31/07/2023

PROBABLY YOUR LAST CHANCE TO PLANT FALL POTATOES

Yes, you can plant a Fall Potato Crop if you are in a Planting Region where you have enough time left in your growing season. Potatoes are a cool weather vegetable, and so you would have to plant in Summer to be harvested in late Fall or early Winter. Fall Potatoes are actually crisper and firmer than ones grown in Spring, and after harvest can be stored all Winter if stored properly.

STEP 1--WHEN TO PLANT. Most Potato varieties take about 100 - 110 days to harvest, so your best time to plant is late June- July period for fresh October Potatoes. To be more exact, you can take your first frost date, and then count back 100 - 110 days. That would be your last date you could get them in the ground, and be able to grow them to full harvest. Of course, New Potatoes can be grown for a shorter period of time.

Plant fall potatoes just as you would in spring. Set the seed pieces 3 inches deep in the soil. Proper planting depth is important because seeds set too deeply are more susceptible to disease. Cover the potatoes with soil and step down on it to pack it down firmly. Set the seed pieces 10 inches to 12 apart, with rows spaced 2 feet to 3 feet apart.

Fall potatoes have different care and maintenance requirements than those grown in the spring. Because they typically are planted in late summer, when temperatures remain high, they need regular watering, especially during dry spells or when it is windy, advises Kansas State University Extension. However, be careful not to use too much water, which makes the tubers susceptible to rot. Fertilize as you would earlier crops -- apply 1 cup of fertilizer for every 30 feet of garden row when the plants reach 4 inches high

STEP 2 — PREPARING THE SEED POTATOES. Cut your potatoes into several 1-inch to 2-inch chunks. Include at least 1 or 2 “eyes” on each piece. This is the growth point where the new plants emerge. Don’t cut the pieces too big. A smaller chunk of potato encourages the plant to get busy and put down its own, strong roots, rather than live off the stored foods in the seed piece. Let the pieces air-dry, for 24 hours. This toughens the outer layer of the potato and helps it resist disease.

You can also give the potato pieces a light dusting of sulfur powder to help prevent fungi from attacking them. Shake the pieces in a bag with a small amount of the powder until the pieces are evenly coated. The spuds will be fine without chemical treatments if the soil they’re planted in is dry and warm.

STEP 3 — PREPARE YOUR SOIL. With this method, you don’t need to dig trenches or mound soil into hills. Just work a trowel full of compost into a square foot of soil in a sunny, well-drained area of the garden. The soil should be loose enough for the potato to send down roots easily. Take a piece of seed potato and press it firmly into contact with the soil. Be sure the “eye” faces up when you do this.

STEP 4 — MOUND UP THE MULCH. Build up a 6-inch-deep mound of mulch over the potato. Water the mound gently to thoroughly wet the mulch. This will help it hold together. Keep the mound evenly moist. As the vines start to peek through the mound, begin feeding them with a half-strength foliar spray. Use fish-emulsion or seaw**d extract once a week until the flowers open, then stop feeding. Mound additional mulch around the stems each time they’ve grown about 6 more inches. Potatoes grow at the ends of stolons that the plant puts out wherever the stems are covered with mulch. So in time your plant will have tubers in several sizes within the mound.

STEP 5 — TIME TO HARVEST. The best part about this method is that you can get NEW potatoes, the creamers and steamers, without disturbing the plant. If that’s your goal for your potatoes, the time to go after the first new spuds is right after the flowers bloom. Just move the mulch gently out of the way and pop the new potatoes off the ends of the stolons with your fingers. Only take about 20 percent of the new potatoes at a time. Let the rest remain to keep the plant from getting too stressed.

Continue watering the plants throughout the season to keep them producing new potatoes. If you’d prefer to let the potatoes mature and get larger, stop watering them after the flowers bloom. This causes the plant to start concentrating on developing the potatoes. Then, in the fall, when the plant begins to die back, move the mulch away and harvest the full-grown potatoes.

FYI--IF YOU DON'T HAVE ENOUGH TIME TO GROW YOUR POTATOES TO FULL SIZE, YOU CAN JUST GROW THEM LONG ENOUGH TO GET SMALLER NEW POTATOES--New potatoes are small, tender potatoes that are harvested and eaten right away. They do not store well. When the plants finish flowering, dig around the edges of the plant with a garden fork and lever up the bundle of potatoes to expose them. (You're less likely to cut the tubers if you use a garden fork instead of a shovel.) Typically, the potatoes are about 4 inches to 6 inches deep in the soil. If you are careful, smaller potatoes can be left in place and gently replanted to allow them to continue growing.

At THE SEED GUY, we have Great Pricing on our Non GMO Heirloom Seed Packages. All Heirloom Seeds are Small Farm-Grown, and we hand count and package to make sure you get the best germination.

They are fresh from the Newest Fall 2022 Harvest, and priced very reasonably, so more Families can afford to grow their own Healthy gardens. You can go to our website to see Heirloom Seed varieties in the packages we have on Sale at --) https://theseedguy.net/15-seed-packages

If you LIKE US on our page https://www.facebook.com/theseedguy you will be able to see more of our great Gardening articles, New Seed Offerings and healthy Juice Recipes. Thank you and God Bless You and Your Family. :)

31/07/2023

YOU MIGHT WANT TO PLANT A FALL GARDEN

I would recommend you Stock Up on Heirloom Seeds this Summer.. Our Country will have Supply Issues on Heirloom Seeds later in the year, as you have seen Supply Chain issues on everything else. Make sure you have a Good Supply. You should also Grow a Fall Garden. To have a productive Fall garden (depending on your region), your vegetables need to be sowed or planted by late July into the last week in August. Here's a few tips that can help you:

VEGETABLES YOU CAN GROW IN YOUR FALL GARDEN
GREENS:

Kale
Spinach
Pak/Bak Choi
Arugula
Lettuce
Collards
BRASSICAS
Cauliflower
Cabbage
Broccoli
Brussels Sprouts
ROOT VEGETABLES: (will keep for months in a crisper or cellar)
Beets
Carrots
Turnips
Celeriac
Rutabaga
Radishes
Parsnips
Potatoes (In some regions)

OTHER VEGETABLES
peas
green beans

As you can see, quite a bit of food can be grown late in the season. One thing you should know is that during the Fall Season, many of your vegetables will taste their best, as you are growing into cooler weather

1. Starting seeds indoors. You need to count back 12-14 weeks from your Average First Fall Frost Date. All of your brassicas, and kale need to be started indoors where the temperature is cooler. When your seedlings are about 3 weeks along, transfer them outdoors, preferably on a cloudy day.

2. Add some nutrients to your soil. You’re probably going to plant where a previous vegetable had already been growing. It’s a good idea to add a bit of compost or worm castings to give your Fall crops optimal growing conditions.

3. Mulch. Since the days are still going to be hot, make sure to add some organic mulch to your Fall crops such as grass clippings or straw to keep moisture in the ground.

4. Water. Make sure to keep your seedlings moist especially if you're trying to germinate seeds directly sown into your garden. One tip, soak your seeds and leave them in the refrigerator overnight. The next day sow them in your garden. This will speed up germination.

5. Pest Prevention. One of the most difficult aspects of starting seeds and putting out new plants during the summer are bugs. You can use floating row covers, especially on your brassicas, to inhibit cabbage worms.

12 to 14 weeks before your first frost
Direct-sow beans, parsnips, rutabagas, and begin planting lettuce and radishes.
Start brassica seedlings and kale indoors, and set out the seedlings within 3 weeks.

10 to 12 weeks before your first frost
Set out brassicas and kale.
Direct-sow beets, carrots, collards, leeks and scallions, along with more lettuce and radishes. In some areas, even fast-maturing peas and potatoes will do well in the fall garden.

8 to 10 weeks before your killing frost
Direct-sow arugula, Chinese cabbage, lettuce, turnips, spinach, mustard, pak choi and other Asian greens.
Sow more lettuce and radishes, including daikons.

6 to 8 weeks before the first frost
Make a final sowing of spinach.
Make a final sowing of lettuce beneath a protective tunnel or frame.

Take it one step at a time. If you're a new gardener, try one green and root vegetable for your Fall garden. If you’re ready to step up your game, add a few varieties and keep track of what produces well and what you're able to preserve.

Next, add your Heirloom Seeds. At THE SEED GUY, we have 9 great Heirloom Seed packages that are Non GMO, Small Farm Grown, Still Hand Counted and Packaged so you get the best germination, and Fresh from the Fall 2022 Harvest. https://theseedguy. net/15-seed-packages

You can also Call Us 7 days a week, and up to 10:00 pm at night, at 918-352-8800 if you would like to Order By Phone.

If you LIKE US on our page, you will be able to see more great Gardening Articles and New Seed Offerings. Thank you and God Bless You and Your Family. https://www.facebook.com/theseedguy

31/07/2023

TOMATO AILMENTS AND THEIR TREATMENTS

It's Summertime, and your Tomatoes should be growing well. Let's hope that you don't have to deal with any Tomato issues this season, but if you do, here is some good info. It is important to be able to identify and treat the common Tomato plant ailments that might crop up.

1) BLOSSOM END ROT--This is one of the most common ailments, and you can tell if your plants have it by looking at where Tomatoes attach to vine. If the attachment appears brown and leathery between the size of a dime and quarter, than that Tomato has Blossom End Rot.

TO TREAT--You will have to take all the Tomatoes off the plants that are affected, and dispose of them. If you don't, it will spread and to all of them. Calcium is required in relatively large concentrations for normal cell growth. When a rapidly growing fruit is deprived of calcium, the tissues break down, leaving the characteristic lesion at the blossom end. Blossom-end rot develops when the fruit's demand for calcium exceeds the supply in the soil.

This may result from low calcium levels in the soil, drought stress, excessive soil moisture, and/or fluctuations due to rain or over watering. Lime (unless the soil is already alkaline), composted manures or bone meal will supply calcium.

2) BLIGHT--There are 3 stages of Blight. Early Blight is black and grey spots on the leaves when Tomatoes are young. Southern Blight is black and grey spots by stem and roots of the tomato plant. Late Blight gets out of hand, and is black and grey spots throughout the leaves, vines, and tomatoes.

TO TREAT--The easiest way is to treat it in it's early stages by removing the parts of the Tomato plants that are infected.. If you don't notice it until the later stages of Blight, you will need to buy an anti-fungal treatment, or you can make an organic one from home. however,

3) CATERPILLARS-- They love to feed on Tomato plants, and should be taken care of right away.

TO TREAT--– There are many treatments available to fight against caterpillar infestations at your local garden store, but you can make your own safe organic remedies at home. An Apple Cider Vinegar spray can be used to keep them away. You can also plant French Marigolds by your Tomatoes to help deter from from coming around

4) FRUIT SPLITTING--This can occur when it is dry, and then you get some heavy rains, or most frequently when there is sudden growth in the tomato plant. It doesn't hurt the Tomatoes, or affect you eating them, they just don't look good after that.

TO TREAT--If it occurs early in the Tomato plants growth phase, it can be reversed. Just water and apply nutrients, as normal, so there's no too dry too wet cycle. If it happens near harvest, it can't be reversed.

5) RED SPIDER MITES-- They are hard to spot, and usually are under your leaves. If you notice cobwebs on your Tomato plants, then you definitely have them.

TO TREAT-- You can always buy treatments at the store to take care of them, but better to make your own organic Apple Cider Vinegar spray, soap spray, or Onion and Garlic spray. Coriander, Dill, and Chrysanthemums are good to plant to deter them.

6) WILT--It is a fungal infection that starts in the roots, and blocks most of the water and nutrients from getting to the plant. It usually causes no problems until Tomatoes are growing on the vines. You will first see yellowing and drying of lower leaves, and then whole plant will wilt during hottest period of day. It will recover some at night, but then wilt again next day

TO TREAT--There really is no treatment when you get wilt that I know of. It is in the soil, so the next time you grow Tomatoes, pick a different spot in the Garden to grow them. It will deprive the Wilt of a host, and it will die out over the next year. Grow seedlings inside in clean soil before transplanting in Spring, and then make sure to pull all w**ds that pop up around them

7) SUN SCORCH-- The skin of your Tomatoes will looked bruised and sunken. It sometimes happens when your Tomatoes get too much sun exposure during a real dry and hot period

TO TREAT-- Don't do any pruning of leaves during hot periods. The extra leaves will shield the Tomatoes. You can also use shade cloth to cover them during these periods Once they get Sun Scorch, you cannot do anything for the affected fruit, but you can provide shade for the unaffected ones.

Please visit our THE SEED GUY website when you get the chance. We have Good Pricing on our 9 Heirloom Seed Packages, and all of our Individual Varieties in Stock Now, and we still hand count and package them, like the old days, so you get the best germination.

Our 60 Variety Heirloom Seed package has 33,000 Seeds, Non GMO, fresh from the New Fall 2022 Harvest, and has 49 Vegetable varieties and 11 Herb varieties. There is definitely enough Seeds in the package to help Feed Your Family, and what you don't use right away, you can seal back in the silver mylar bag we include for storage. Great SALE Pricing Now at $79. https://theseedguy.net/seed-packages/50-60-variety-heirloom-seed-package.html

You can also call us 7 days a week, and up to 10:00 pm each night, at 918-352-8800 if you would like to Order By Phone.

If you LIKE US on our page, you will be able to see more of our great Gardening Articles, new Heirloom Seed Offers, and healthy Juice Recipes. https://www.facebook.com/theseedguy Thank you, and God Bless You and Your Family. :)

Some knowledge from elder Duke Redbird
01/07/2023

Some knowledge from elder Duke Redbird

These are the 7 Ancestor Teachings, as told by Elder Duke Rebird 🌱

12/06/2023

WHY CALL THEM WEEDS, WHEN THEY ARE SO HEALTHY?

Did you know that some w**ds we are always worried about in our yards and Gardens are actually good for you, and can be delicious if prepared properly? Be sure to identify the w**ds correctly (The ones described here are easy to spot.) Avoid harvesting from anyplace you suspect pollution — such as from vehicle exhaust, lawn pesticide or doggy business. And remember that edible does not mean allergen-free. Here are 9 good ones:

DANDELION
Dandelion is one of the healthiest and most versatile vegetables on the planet. The entire plant is edible. The leaves are like vitamin pills, containing generous amounts of vitamins A, C and K — far more than those garden tomatoes, in fact — along with calcium, iron, manganese, and potassium.

The leaves are most tender, and tastiest, when they are young. This happens in the spring but also all summer along as the plant tries to rebound after being cut or pulled. You can add them to soup in great abundance. Or you can prepare them Italian style by sautéing with a little olive oil, salt, garlic and some hot red pepper.

You can eat the bright, open flower heads in a lightly fried batter. You can also make a simple wine with the flowers by fermenting them with raisins and yeast. If you are slightly adventurous, you can roast the dandelion root, grind it, and brew it like coffee. It's an acquired taste. You might want to have some sugar on hand.

PURSLANE
If you've ever lived in the city, you have seen good ol' Portulaca olearacea, or common purslane. The stuff grows in cracks in the sidewalk. Aside from being surprisingly tasty for a crack dweller, purslane tops the list of plants with omega-3 fatty acids, the type of healthy fat found in salmon.
If you dislike the bitter taste of dandelion greens, you still might like the lemony taste of purslane. The stems, leaves and flowers are all edible; and they can be eaten raw on salads — as they are prepared worldwide — or lightly sautéed.

You should keep a few things in mind, though, before your harvest. Watch out for spurge, a similar-looking sidewalk-crack dweller. Spurge is much thinner than purslane, and it contains a milky sap, so you can easily differentiate it. Also, your mother might have warned you about eating things off the sidewalk; so instead, look for purslane growing in your garden, or consider transplanting it to your garden from a sidewalk.

Also, note the some folks incorrectly call purslane "pigw**d," but that's a different w**d — edible but not as tasty.

LAMB'S QUARTERS
Lamb's-quarters are like spinach, except they are healthier, tastier and easier to grow. Lamb's-quarters, also called goosefoot, usually need more than a sidewalk crack to grow in, unlike dandelion or purslane. Nevertheless, they can be found throughout the urban landscape, wherever there is a little dirt.

The best part of the lamb's-quarters are the leaves, which are slightly velvety with a fine white powder on their undersides. Discard any dead or diseased leaves, which are usually the older ones on the bottom of the plant. The leaves and younger stems can be quickly boiled or sautéed, and they taste like a cross between spinach and Swiss chard with a slight nutty after-taste.

Maybe that taste combination doesn't appeal to you, but lamb's-quarters are ridiculously healthy. A one-cup serving will give you 10 times the daily-recommended dose of vitamin K; three times the vitamin A; more than enough vitamin C; and half your daily dose of calcium and magnesium.

PLANTAIN
Plantain, like dandelion, is a healthy, hardy w**d as ubiquitous in the city as broken glass. You know what it looks like, but you might not have known the name.
Part of the confusion is that plantain shares its name with something utterly different, the banana-like plantain, whose etymology is a mix of Spanish and native Caribbean. The so-called w**d plantain, or Plantago major, was cultivated in pre-Columbus Europe; and indeed Native Americans called it "the white man's footprint," because it seemed to follow European settlers.

Plantain has a nutritional profile similar to dandelion — that is, loaded with iron and other important vitamins and minerals. The leaves are tastiest when small and tender, usually in the spring but whenever new shoots appear after being cut back by a lawnmower. Bigger leaves are edible but bitter and fibrous.

The shoots of the broadleaf plantain, when green and tender and no longer than about four inches, can be described as a poor-man's fiddlehead, with a nutty, asparagus-like taste. Pan-fry in olive oil for just a few seconds to bring out this taste. The longer, browner shoots are also tasty prepared the same way, but the inner stem is too fibrous. You'll need to place the shoot in your mouth, clench with your teeth, and quickly pull out the stem. What you're eating are the plantain seeds.

The leaves of the equally ubiquitous narrow-leaf plantain, or Plantago lanceolata, also are edible when young. The shoot is "edible" only with quotation marks. You can eat the seeds should you have the patience to collect hundreds of plants for the handful of seeds you'd harvest. With time being money, it's likely not worth it.

CHICKWEED
One of the not-so-ugly w**ds worth pulling and keeping is chickw**d. Identified by purple stems, fuzzy green leaves, and starry white flower petals, this w**d is a fantastic source of vitamins A, D, B complex, and C. It also contains minerals like iron, zinc, calcium, and potassium. Chickw**d (Stellaria media) has a cornsilk-like flavor when eaten raw, and tastes similar to spinach when it is cooked. [1]

Chickw**d nourishes the lymph and glandular systems, and can heal cysts, fevers, and inflammation. It can help neutralize acid and help with yeast overgrowth and fatty deposits, too.
Additionally, chickw**d can be finely chopped and applied externally to irritated skin. Steep the plant in ¼ cup of boiling water for 15 minutes, and chickw**d provides benefits similar to dandelion root. Speaking of dandelion…

CLOVER
Other than the occasional four-leafed clover hunt, this common lawn w**d goes mostly unnoticed, even though it is becoming popular as a lawn replacement altogether. Clover is an important food for honeybees and bumblebees, and clover leaves and flowers can be used to add variety to human meals as well. Small amounts of raw clover leaves can be chopped into salads, or can be sauteed and added to dishes for a green accent, and the flowers of both red and white clover can be eaten raw or cooked, or dried for tea.

MALLOW
Mallow, or malva, is also known as cheesew**d, due to the shape of its seed pods, and can be found in many lawns or garden beds across the US. The leaves and the seed pods (also called the 'fruit') are both edible, either raw or cooked, and like many greens, are often more tender and palatable when smaller and less mature. The older leaves can be used like any other cooked green after steaming, boiling, or sauteing them.

WILD AMARANTH
The leaves of the wild amaranth, also known as pigw**d, are another great addition to any dish that calls for leafy greens, and while the younger leaves are softer and tastier, the older leaves can also be cooked like spinach. The seeds of the wild amaranth can be gathered and cooked just like store-bought amaranth, either as a cooked whole grain or as a ground meal, and while it does take a bit of time to gather enough to add to a meal, they can be a a good source of free protein.

STINGING NETTLES
It sounds like a cruel joke, but stinging nettles — should you be able to handle them without getting a painful rash from the tiny, acid-filled needles — are delicious cooked or prepared as a tea.

You may have brushed by these in the woods or even in your garden, not knowing what hit you, having been trained all your life to identify poison ivy and nothing else. The tiny needles fortunately fall off when steamed or boiled. The trick is merely using garden gloves to get the nettles into a bag.

Nettles tastes a little like spinach, only more flavorful and more healthful. They are loaded with essential minerals you won't find together outside a multivitamin bottle, and these include iodine, magnesium, potassium, phosphorous, silica and sulfur. Nettles also have more protein than most plants.

You can eat the leaves and then drink the water as tea, with or without sugar, hot or cold. If you are adventurous — or, you can collect entire plants to dry in your basement. The needles will eventually fall off, and you can save the dried leaves for tea all winter long. Info by Christopher Wanjek

Credit for the Great Identification photo goes to Cook's Illustrated Magazine.

Please visit our THE SEED GUY website when you get the chance. We have 9 of our Heirloom Seed Packages, and all of our Individual Varieties in Stock Now, Non GMO, still hand counted and packaged, like the old days, so you get the best germination, fresh from the New Fall 2022 Harvest, and SALE Pricing Now. https://theseedguy.net/15-seed-packages

You can also Call Us 7 days a week, and up to 10:00 pm each night, at 918-352-8800 if you would like to Order By Phone.

If you LIKE US on our page, you will be on our list for more great Gardening Articles, new Heirloom Seed Offers, and healthy Juice Recipes https://www.facebook.com/theseedguy Thank you, and God Bless You and Your Family. :)

Upcoming webinar
24/05/2023

Upcoming webinar

May 30, 2023 – Join Laura Gilmour, owner of Wild Muskoka, for Muskoka Conservancy’s May Webinar “Deepening Relationships with Muskoka Native Plants”

Horsetail via Wild About Plants on IG!
14/05/2023

Horsetail via Wild About Plants on IG!

11/05/2023

If anyone in Rama has any photos or articles they’d like shared please email me at [email protected] and I’ll be sure to post ❤️

11/05/2023
11/05/2023
Fiddlehead and wild leek harvesting! Nancy (CLB), Ida and Sharla 🌱🌱🌱
11/05/2023

Fiddlehead and wild leek harvesting! Nancy (CLB), Ida and Sharla 🌱🌱🌱

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