21/09/2023
◥ Next–level brand : A comprehensive guide to the season : 𝗔𝘂𝘁𝘂𝗺𝗻/𝗪𝗶𝗻𝘁𝗲𝗿 𝟮𝟬𝟮𝟯 𝗧𝗿𝗲𝗻𝗱 𝗥𝗲𝗽𝗼𝗿𝘁 — Devoid of viral spray-on clothing or divisive faux-taxidermy dresses, for the 𝗔𝘂𝘁𝘂𝗺𝗻/𝗪𝗶𝗻𝘁𝗲𝗿 𝟮𝟬𝟮𝟯 runway season designers offered us a renewed focus on the clothes. While fashion months passed may have delivered a sense of whimsical escapism and equally singular looks, the trends of 𝗔𝘂𝘁𝘂𝗺𝗻/𝗪𝗶𝗻𝘁𝗲𝗿 𝟮𝟬𝟮𝟯 are set to be more wearable, featuring impeccable tailoring, timeless silhouettes and the kind of closet staples that would actually feel at home in your everyday wardrobe.
Though that is not to say there was a lack of grandeur this past season. During the 𝗔𝘂𝘁𝘂𝗺𝗻/𝗪𝗶𝗻𝘁𝗲𝗿 𝟮𝟬𝟮𝟯 collections, Dior built a sprawling multicoloured installation within its show space that some likened to the inside of a genie’s bottle, and Off-White created an apocalyptic feeling for its catwalk featuring sandy flooring and a giant silver orb. At Coperni, robotic animals interacted with models on stage, while Stella McCartney hosted her show alongside real-life horses at France’s oldest horse riding school.
When it comes to trends, red will undoubtedly be the colour of the season with everything from clothing to show spaces cast in the hue. Tailoring will also take on a particular prominence for 𝗔𝘂𝘁𝘂𝗺𝗻/𝗪𝗶𝗻𝘁𝗲𝗿 𝟮𝟬𝟮𝟯, with black suits becoming a key look alongside the return of the tie. Bags are offered the supersize treatment, while ruching and waist-centric details will dominate dresses. Elsewhere, layers have taken on a life of their own, becoming an on-display focal point of outfit styling, and grey coats in every shape and silhouette are set to be the standout outerwear of choice.
From New York to London, Milan and Paris, keep scrolling for our analysis of the runway trends you need to know from the 𝗔𝘂𝘁𝘂𝗺𝗻/𝗪𝗶𝗻𝘁𝗲𝗿 𝟮𝟬𝟮𝟯 season.
1. Seeing Red : Everyone in the industry was seeing red this fashion month, but not for the reasons you might think. It had nothing to do with anyone’s temper and everything to do with the colour designers couldn’t get enough of.
From David Koma having models walk on a vibrant red carpet to Nensi Dojaka casting her show space in crimson light, red was undoubtedly the colour of the season. Head-to-toe red looks were seen at Prada, Bottega Veneta, Stella McCartney, and more. Plus, according to Tagwalk, 𝗔𝘂𝘁𝘂𝗺𝗻/𝗪𝗶𝗻𝘁𝗲𝗿 𝟮𝟬𝟮𝟯 saw a 33% increase in looks featuring the colour compared to Autumn/Winter 2022.
Shop the look : Joslin Sophia linen wide-leg pants, Velvet Carmella cotton maxi dress.
2. Gather Together : Ruching, draping, gathering, whichever way you choose to phrase it, Grecian-inspired draped looks were one of the most prominent trends amongst dresses this season. From Altuzarra to Jason Wu, Ferragamo, Tove and more, models took to the runway swathed in gathered fabrics. According to Tagwalk, draped looked were 20% more popular this season compared to last year.
Shop the look : Raey Ruched side jersey dress, Christopher Esber Quartz ruched ribbed jersey dress, Saint Laurent Halterneck ruched-jersey maxi dress.
3. Big Bag Energy : Carry-alls were offered the supersize treatment this season with totes, handbags and clutches being displayed in epic proportions. As the antidote to the tiny handbag trend we’ve seen in years passed, for 𝗔𝘂𝘁𝘂𝗺𝗻/𝗪𝗶𝗻𝘁𝗲𝗿 𝟮𝟬𝟮𝟯 it looks like you’ll be able to fit everything (including the kitchen sink). Champions of this trend included Ferragamo, who displayed supersize shoulder bags, as well as Loewe, Jil Sander and Balmain.
Shop the look : Bottega Veneta Arco intrecciato-effect rubber tote bag.
4. Shades of Grey : In another nod to the wearable nature of 𝗔𝘂𝘁𝘂𝗺𝗻/𝗪𝗶𝗻𝘁𝗲𝗿 𝟮𝟬𝟮𝟯, this season the runways were inundated with versatile grey coats. From Coperni to Bottega Veneta, Gucci, Ferragamo and Max Mara, so many designers took a moment to honour the tried and tested classics this year. In fact, Tagwalk notes that there were 13% more grey looks this year compared to the same shade in 2022.
Shop the look : Michael Kors Double face wool blend robe coat, Erdem Stephanie embellished stretch-tweed coat.
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