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The Kodai Chronicle A digital dispatch from Kodaikanal (2021); evolving into Western Ghats platform Sky Islands in 2025

We move towards our most tranquil spaces amidst the chaos, often within nature, to find mindfulness. And often, it is th...
15/11/2024

We move towards our most tranquil spaces amidst the chaos, often within nature, to find mindfulness. And often, it is the smallest object that we focus on, after the many demands on our time and attention.

The Zen garden seen here, designed by Swedish artist Ylva Lindqvist, is located within a unique meditation centre in the Palani Hills, Bodhi Zendo. Made up of a rock garden and a pond full of flowers like this lotus, reflecting the trees overhead.

Read more in 'Meditation in the Mountains: The Palani Hills' Bodhi Zendo': https://www.thekodaichronicle.com/culture/meditation-in-the-mountains-the-palani-hills-bodhi-zendo/

All stories on The Kodai Chronicle are freely accessible, community-funded and driven by a mission to celebrate and protect mountain ecosystems, like Kodaikanal, in the Western Ghats of India.

Photo: Azad Reese

‘I used to sit the whole day in a little hut looking towards the small hills south of Dindigul stretching towards Madura...
06/11/2024

‘I used to sit the whole day in a little hut looking towards the small hills south of Dindigul stretching towards Madurai… I was a rare sight in those days, a Catholic priest living the life of a beggar-sanyasi’, writes Father Amy Samy in Zen: Awakening to Your Original Face (2005).

The quest for a meaningful life takes all of us, even or especially Zen leaders, on all kinds of journeys.

Father Ama Samy is the pioneering priest who founded the Palani Hills' meditation centre Bodhi Zendo in 1996, after studying at Japan’s Sanbo Kyodan school. Born to impoverished Tamil migrants in Myanmar, he lived through war and famine during World War II. Visiting ashrams and studying the faiths of Christianity, Buddhism, Hinduism, Zen and Advaita, he aimed for a 'creative fidelity' (Zen) to all.

Read more in 'Meditation in the Mountains: The Palani Hills' Bodhi Zendo': https://www.thekodaichronicle.com/culture/meditation-in-the-mountains-the-palani-hills-bodhi-zendo/

All stories on The Kodai Chronicle are freely accessible, community-funded and driven by a mission to celebrate and protect mountain ecosystems, like Kodaikanal, in the Western Ghats of India.

Photo: Bodhi Zendo

There's a place in the Palanis not everyone knows about - a space for mindfulness in the mountains which welcomes visito...
02/11/2024

There's a place in the Palanis not everyone knows about - a space for mindfulness in the mountains which welcomes visitors to this part of Tamil Nadu from all over India and around the world.

Three decades ago, a Jesuit priest founded Bodhi Zendo, the Zen meditation centre on a six-acre property in Perumalmalai (half an hour away from Kodaikanal town) which provides an accessible means of learning the practice.

'For a minute, it feels like I’m a monk in a fourteenth-century monastery, consigned to a life of silence, service and devotion. Except: I am not bound by religious strictures. I am a visitor from the big city. As I made my way up from Bangalore, I felt excited to leave the clamour, distractions and overstimulation of the city behind and spend some time being with myself—and, most importantly, not look at my phone', writes Kartikeya Jain, who visited the space recently.

Read more about their journey in 'Meditation in the Mountains: The Palani Hills' Bodhi Zendo': https://www.thekodaichronicle.com/culture/meditation-in-the-mountains-the-palani-hills-bodhi-zendo/

All stories on The Kodai Chronicle are freely accessible, community-funded and driven by a mission to celebrate and protect mountain ecosystems, like Kodaikanal, in the Western Ghats of India.

Photos: Bodhi Zendo's Zen garden by Mary Therese Kurkalang; the central space around which rooms, meditation, eating and living are organized (2) and the Buddha which sits in the meditation hall (3) by Azad Reese.

Happy Diwali!This year, as we celebrate the festival of lights, we think of our feathered friends too, and ask that you ...
31/10/2024

Happy Diwali!

This year, as we celebrate the festival of lights, we think of our feathered friends too, and ask that you refrain from lighting noisy firecrackers that may alarm them and other animals like them.

And, we celebrate the young naturalists of Kodai who so diligently work to protect birds and other fauna. They offer hope for the future.

Seen here: Niloufer Joviya and Nira Johannah of St Peter’s School (1) are among the 2023-24 group of 50 young naturalists who made up the first cohort of Kodaikanal International School's Centre for Environment and Humanity (). And, young naturalists with wildlife artist and National Geographic Explorer Niharika Rajput (), who creates paper models of birds (2): ranging from the white-bellied Sholakili to the Nilgiri flycatcher, they were part of an exhibit titled ‘Birds of the Shola Sky Islands’.

For more, read 'Sowing the Future': https://www.thekodaichronicle.com/community/sowing-the-future/

And, here's hoping for peace and prosperity for everyone - may we all thrive!

Photos: KIS CEH (1) and Niharika Rajput (2).

Beginning the week with our heads in the clouds - and asking you to post your own images of high altitude clouds, if you...
28/10/2024

Beginning the week with our heads in the clouds - and asking you to post your own images of high altitude clouds, if you are in the mountains or dreaming of them.

Photo: TKC Staff

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Discovery - it’s a rare and wonderful sensation when you are an adult, and even more special when you are a child and un...
19/10/2024

Discovery - it’s a rare and wonderful sensation when you are an adult, and even more special when you are a child and uninitiated into the world, one would argue.

The young naturalists who have been part of the Junior Naturalists Action Network (JNAN) started by Kodaikanal International School’s Centre for Environment and Humanity () meet every Saturday through the academic year and journey far from the classroom, into the gorgeous green spaces in which their lessons live. Some days, they see something they’ve never spotted before; on others, they find out that the tahr, which they live alongside, is endemic - and that its habitat is threatened.

Journey with them in ‘Sowing the Future’ by Reena Raghavamoorthy (): https://www.thekodaichronicle.com/community/sowing-the-future/

Photos by : Students discover a cicada exoskeleton with KIS CEH director Iti Maloney (far left), one morning (1); Joel Jacob, a recent graduate of KIS, and Vignesh, a tenth grade student of Sri Sankara Vidyalaya Matriculation Higher Secondary School, spot a bird in Bombay Shola (2).

All stories on The Kodai Chronicle are freely accessible, community-funded and driven by a mission to celebrate and protect mountain ecosystems, like Kodaikanal, in the Western Ghats of India.

Covering over 2500 square kilometres, the Nilgiris district features beautiful peaks and scenic vistas alongside crowded...
16/10/2024

Covering over 2500 square kilometres, the Nilgiris district features beautiful peaks and scenic vistas alongside crowded towns without the resources to keep up with increased tourist footfall.

'The old colonial buildings are overshadowed by modern-day resorts; trees and wetlands are supplanted by concrete structures to cater to the imagined fancies of today’s tourists,' observes Sneha Thomas, a frequent visitor to this part of the Western Ghats. 'Blue evening skies are now disturbed by the glaring lights of electronic billboards and fluorescent plastic flex banners, all vying for tourists’ attention. Scattered around the town are the discards of tourism’s footprint—plastic food wrappers and paper plates. Like many, I wondered what was left of the Ooty that I had once idealised.'

What can a slow, personalised tour show us about the rapidly developed landscape of hill stations like Ooty?

Read more in 'A Slow Walk Through the Nilgiri Hills' by Thomas (earths_tenant_sneha): https://www.thekodaichronicle.com/community/a-slow-walk-through-the-nilgiri-hills/

Photos: Suraj Mahbubani (1), Bibek Photography/ Shutterstock (2).

All stories on The Kodai Chronicle are freely accessible, community-funded and driven by a mission to celebrate and protect mountain ecosystems, like Kodaikanal, in the Western Ghats of India.

How often do we pause and celebrate the means by which we go about our daily lives? Sometimes, beauty lies in the ordina...
15/10/2024

How often do we pause and celebrate the means by which we go about our daily lives? Sometimes, beauty lies in the ordinary, mundane things, the cogs that make our lives go round.

Last Saturday, we celebrated Ayudha Pooja - a south Indian Hindu ritual intended to honor daily tools, instruments, and vehicles. This can take the form of cleaning and purifying equipment and performing puja by applying haldi (turmeric), kumkum (vermilion) and sandalwood paste on it. Coconuts and bananas are often part of the offering, as seen here.

What did you do to mark the occasion? Tag us with your own picture.

This Monday, on October 7th, we celebrated Nilgiri Tahr Day, in honor of the sure-footed Nilgiri tahr, often referred to...
12/10/2024

This Monday, on October 7th, we celebrated Nilgiri Tahr Day, in honor of the sure-footed Nilgiri tahr, often referred to as 'the pride of the Western Ghats'.

The day is commemorated on the occasion of the birthday of ERC Davidar, a wildlife conservationist who first studied the mountain ungulate (a hoofed, typically herbivorous quadruped mammal) in the 1960s.

Once found all over the Western Ghats, to which it is endemic, the Nilgiri Tahr (Nilgiritragus hylocrius) inhabits grassland habitats at 1200 to 2600 metres elevation. It is now found only in fragmented pockets in the states of Tamil Nadu and Kerala, and the WWF estimated that there were 3122 left in 2015.

Habitat loss is seen as the key factor in the threat to their survival; the subject of undertakings such as the Tamil Nadu government's Project Nilgiri Tahr, which has been surveying the population of these endangered animals.

Photo: Shameer Kadakkal/ Shutterstock

‘Birdwatching is the easiest way to introduce someone to becoming a naturalist. Birds are easy to spot. They are bright ...
09/10/2024

‘Birdwatching is the easiest way to introduce someone to becoming a naturalist. Birds are easy to spot. They are bright and colourful and abundant, as compared to mammals or other animals. Because they fly, they are easier to spot,’ says Iti Maloney (), director of Kodaikanal International School’s Centre for Environment and Humanity (KIS CEH; ).

This favorite ‘gateway’ activity for young naturalists leads to a deeper engagement with other aspects of their habitat, as KIS CEH’s Junior Naturalists Action Network (JNAN) has found. Founded in 2023, JNAN follows in the tradition of programs across the country which help pass the baton on to the next generation.

Photos: Young naturalists search the skies at Berijam Lake, a protected reservoir and forest area near Kodaikanal (1) (); a snapshot from wildlife artist Niharika Rajput’s Instagram page () displaying her life-like paper models of birds from the Western Ghats; Rajput was among the environmental professionals invited to participate at KIS CEH since its inception six years ago (2) ().

Read more in ‘Sowing the Future’ by Reena Raghavamoorthy (): https://www.thekodaichronicle.com/community/sowing-the-future/

All stories on The Kodai Chronicle are freely accessible, community-funded and driven by a mission to celebrate and protect mountain ecosystems, like Kodaikanal, in the Western Ghats of India.

Every Saturday from 2023-24, 50 students from 16 schools in the Palani Hills came together over the academic year throug...
05/10/2024

Every Saturday from 2023-24, 50 students from 16 schools in the Palani Hills came together over the academic year through the Junior Naturalists Action Network (JNAN), founded by the Kodaikanal International School Centre for Environment and Humanity (). Hailing from 20 villages across the Palani Hills, these young naturalists offer up inspiration and energy, says Reena Raghavamoorthy (), who had her own first encounter with conservation when she visited Kodaikanal (now her home) at the Sacred Heart College’s Anglade Institute of Natural History.

From birdwatching to inventive ideas to involve their elders in better management of their habitat, these children have taken the time to immerse themselves in their surroundings. And, 25 students from the first batch who have shown keen interest in the programme have been chosen to lead the second batch in the next academic year (2024–25), which has just commenced.

What do these young students have to teach us? For more, read 'Sowing the Future':
https://www.thekodaichronicle.com/community/sowing-the-future/

Photos (courtesy ): Birdwatching in Bombay Shola (from left to right): Dr Rajamanikam Ramamoorthy, community outreach manager at KIS CEH) with Ashwin Joshua, Santhosh, Antony Anshiya, Yazhini, Srineevi and Joal Aton Joshua, students from RC Higher Secondary School, St John's Girls Higher Secondary School, Sri Sankara Vidyalaya Matriculation Higher Secondary School and the Government Higher Secondary School, all in Kodaikanal; as well as a JNAN parent (1); the full first cohort of the JNAN program (2).

All stories on The Kodai Chronicle are freely accessible, community-funded and driven by a mission to celebrate and protect mountain ecosystems, like Kodaikanal, in the Western Ghats of India.

Kaapi from the Western Ghats takes many flavorful forms. We should know - living in the mountains, we often get to sampl...
01/10/2024

Kaapi from the Western Ghats takes many flavorful forms. We should know - living in the mountains, we often get to sample our favorite brew fresh from the farm.

On International Coffee Day, we celebrate the rich and fragrant world of the beloved beverage with images from around the region.

Read more in 'Brewing Biodiversity' by Sharmila Vaidyanathan (): https://www.thekodaichronicle.com/food/brewing-biodiversity-how-some-western-ghats-coffee-growers-are-adapting-to-climate-change/

Photos: A hot cuppa with a view (1); a pourover by Pranoy Thipaiah of Kerehaklu (), a plantation and eco-retreat which produces coffee 15 minutes away from Aldur, Karnataka (2); Ramesha, who works with Black Baza Coffee (), a grassroots organisation that works with 650 smallholder farmers across Karnataka, Tamil Nadu and Wayanad in Kerala (3); Thadiankudisai (), a family-run farm in the Palani Hills growing coffee inter-cropped with spices, fruits, and tropical trees, is seen here attending the 5th World Coffee Conference in Bengaluru, Karnataka last September (4).

Photos (1-4): TKC Staff, Pranoy Thipaiah (), Vivek Mutharamalingam (), Aditi Nagarajan ().

All stories on The Kodai Chronicle are freely accessible, community-funded and driven by a mission to celebrate and protect mountain ecosystems like Kodaikanal, in the Western Ghats of India.

The relationship between indigenous people and nature often focusses on a specific kind of flora or fauna. Irulars are a...
28/09/2024

The relationship between indigenous people and nature often focusses on a specific kind of flora or fauna.

Irulars are a scheduled tribe of around 200,000 people living across Tamil Nadu (predominantly), Kerala and Karnataka, including in the Western Ghats, and their traditional occupation has been snake and rat catching, as well as honey collecting.

Conservationists Zai and Rom' Whitaker have worked closely with Irulars, at the Madras Croc Bank and elsewhere.

For more, read ‘Snakes, On A Different Plane’: https://www.thekodaichronicle.com/culture/snakes-on-a-different-plane/

Seen here: Muthu, one of the Irular who work at the snake venom cooperative next to the Croc Bank (1); Chockalingam, an Irular, holds a baby cobra (not recommended, says Zai!) (2); an Irular family on a rat hunt in 1976 (3). Photos: Madras Croc Bank Trust archives.

All stories on The Kodai Chronicle are freely accessible, community-funded and driven by a mission to celebrate and protect mountain ecosystems, like Kodaikanal, in the Western Ghats of India.


in

'... I rose,   I did not dress, I left no particular body   sleeping and, stepping into the hour, I sawyou, strange sign...
21/09/2024

'... I rose,

I did not dress, I left no particular body

sleeping and, stepping into the hour, I saw

you, strange sign, at once transparent and

impossible to entirely see through.'

From 'Luna Moth', by Carl Philips

The Indian moon moth (Actias selene) lives for just seven to ten days as an adult, thriving in its nocturnal element and inspiring many a poem - a beautiful reminder of the ephemeral nature of existence.

This moth was photographed in Kodaikanal. Post your own pictures of/with moon moths and tag us with details regarding location!

Photo: R Serapandi ()



Writer and environmentalist Zai Whitaker grew up in a family where environmentalists were encouraged to thrive, and ofte...
18/09/2024

Writer and environmentalist Zai Whitaker grew up in a family where environmentalists were encouraged to thrive, and often supported by members of the extended family. Her ‘lineage reads like a who’s who of naturalists,’ says ecologist KAMiNi GOPAL ‘Natural history and conservation run in her blood.’

In her review of Whitaker’s memoir, Scaling Up, GOPAL describes how memorable conservationists like the writer’s grand uncles Salim Ali, the father of ornithology in India, and Humayun Abdulali helped protect wildlife in India; the latter helped create the Wildlife Protection Act (1972). Whitaker’s parents were Zafar Futehally, who established the World Wildlife Fund (WWF) in India, and Laeeq Futehally, a skilled editor who worked on environmental texts. Cousins include Rauf Ali, who launched the first master’s course in ecology in India at Pondicherry University, and Sumaira Abdulali, the Awaaz Foundation founder who took on the sand mining lobby and tackled noise pollution. Ex-husband Rom Whitaker, her sons Samir and Nikhil and a daughter-in-law also work in the same field.

What is it like to grow up in a family full of like-minded green folks? Read more, in ‘Snakes, On A Different Plane’: https://www.thekodaichronicle.com/culture/snakes-on-a-different-plane/

Photos: The author with her uncle Salim Mamoo, or Salim Ali, the Birdman of India (1, courtesy Murad Fatehally), Zai with her parents and siblings Shama and Murad (2) and her sons Nikhil and Samir (3) courtesy Zai Whitaker; young Zai in 1975 (4, by Rom Whitaker).

All stories on The Kodai Chronicle are freely accessible, community-funded and driven by a mission to celebrate and protect mountain ecosystems, like Kodaikanal, in the Western Ghats of India.

Doing your Sunday shopping? If you're in the Palani Hills, you're likely to add a few handfuls of malai poondu, Kodaikan...
15/09/2024

Doing your Sunday shopping? If you're in the Palani Hills, you're likely to add a few handfuls of malai poondu, Kodaikanal's own GI (geographical indication) tagged variety of garlic, to your shopping bag.

Distinguished by its potent antimicrobial and antioxidant properties - and intense flavor - hill garlic from this region has earned a name for itself and buyers as far afield as China. Brewed up in rasams, fried into our daily meal and prepared as medication, it is a staple in the hills.

What are the unique challenges it faces today?

Tap the link in our bio to read more in 'Local Flavour: Smoky, Pungent Hill Garlic, Unique to the Palani Hills' by

Photo: Lathika George

All stories on The Kodai Chronicle are freely accessible, community-funded and driven by a mission to celebrate and protect mountain ecosystems, like Kodaikanal, in the Western Ghats of India.

Great news! We have received funding from an organisation whose work we value and admire.Shared Ecologies, a program by ...
14/09/2024

Great news! We have received funding from an organisation whose work we value and admire.

Shared Ecologies, a program by the Shyama Foundation, has awarded Sky Islands – the forthcoming pan-Western Ghats platform administered by The Kodai Chronicle Trust - a one-year grant.

The grant intends to create environmental awareness through creative interventions and art, in this part of the Western Ghats, funding one writer who will represent indigenous and grassroots narratives around ecology, through text and images. It will also fund related editorial and admin support.

The recipient of the grant is Murugeshwari, a 26-year-old daily wage agricultural labourer who is a member of the Paliyar adivasi community. Her writing has been published in The Kodai Chronicle, syndicated in Voices of Rural India and Adivasi Lives Matter, and anthologized in Between Heaven and Earth: Writings on the Indian Hills. She will work with Kamakshi Narayanan, TKC Tamil editor.

Shared Ecologies supports initiatives at the intersection of art and ecology – through critical, creative, aesthetic approaches, and collaborations with various disciplines and knowledge systems. Collaborations like this one.

Congratulations, Murugeshwari!

For more details: https://www.thekodaichronicle.com/announcements/sky-islands-awarded-grant-by-shared-ecologies-fellowship-for-palani-hills-writer-murugeshwari

Photo: Murugeshwari (left) and Kamakshi Narayanan (right) in Kodaikanal, by TKC staff.

Who doesn't adore the Malabar giant squirrel?Residents around Kodai have been encountering these squirrels closer to hom...
11/09/2024

Who doesn't adore the Malabar giant squirrel?

Residents around Kodai have been encountering these squirrels closer to home, over the last few years. Easily recognisable by means of their distinct coat - featuring dark maroon-brown on the upper parts and beige underparts and tail tips - they are most active during the day. 

These arboreal rodents have found creative ways to persevere amidst invasive tree plantations that have replaced vast tracts of their native shola habitat.

Tap the link in our bio for more, in 'A Tail of Survival' by

And, post your own picture of these cuties and tag us!

Photo:

All stories on The Kodai Chronicle are freely accessible, community -funded and driven by a mission to celebrate and protect mountain ecosystems, like Kodaikanal, in the Western Ghats.

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