White-haired sisters gather annually | Chinese New Year Cookies at Kampung Simee
Around 3AM, when the surroundings are enclosed in darkness, and most people are still sound asleep, the five-foot-way of a double-storey shophouse in Kampung Simee, Ipoh, is brightly lit. A few white-haired ladies are either seated in front of a rectangular charcoal stove or shuffling between two rows of round charcoal stoves (ten in total), busy making traditional Chinese New Year cookies. The aroma of cookies wafts alongside the red-hot smoldering charcoal, music plays from the radio in the corner, sometimes interrupted by lively chatter. They are busy as bees from before sunrise until sunset.
This double-storey shophouse has been around since Kampung Simee was founded, acting as a grocer and home to four generations of the Low family, where all members of the family would now gather. Ranked seventh out of ten sisters in the third generation, Low Siew Tiong sparked an interest in cookie-making from a tender age. Each year, as the festive season approached, she would help neighbours to make cookies after school. After becoming an adult, she suggested to her sisters that they all work together to make Chinese New Year cookies for sale. Unexpectedly, they kept it up for over forty years. Before getting married, they all lived under the same roof. After getting married, during the two months preceding Chinese New Year until New Year’s Eve, they would make a special effort to return to their old home, where they busied themselves with their annual cookie-making.
The charcoal stoves and cast-iron moulds resurfaced from the storeroom to make mouthwatering kuih kapit, egg rolls, and Indonesian style cookies. The inspiration for Indonesian style cookies was a local delicacy they tasted during a trip decades ago where they visited friends in Indonesia. Upon returning home, they come up with their own version: fry a thin round pancake, fill it with peanuts or meat floss, and fold it into a square. Egg rolls are the bestseller, coming in two varieties: hollow or filled wi
Passing on Human Warmth | Chai Huat Hin Dried Seafood and Sundry Store
Laid out on makeshift tables lining the five-foot walkway of Chai Huat Hin Trading at Jalan Tun H.S. Lee are cartons of dry goods such as garlic, onion, and ginger; tubs of dried marine products such as dried shrimp and anchovies; and a wide array of nuts, beans, and grains. Pre-packed dried fish maw with hues ranging from pale yellow to golden mustard suspend from the retractable awning rail, while bags of dried bean curd skin, shiitake mushrooms, black moss, and other ingredients hang above the entrance. Even though situated far away from the sea, Chai Huat Hin supply the city with marine products.
Practiced since centuries ago, drying has proved to be an effective way to preserve and extend the shelf life of various types of marine products, as well as make them more convenient for storage and transportation. In everyday Chinese cooking, intensely-flavoured and less expensive ingredients such as dried shrimp and anchovies are typically used to lend a rich umami taste to dishes. Exotic dried seafood such as fish maw, sea cucumber, and abalone, can be soaked to rehydrate before being incorporated into a wide range of exquisite dishes carrying auspicious meanings.
As Chinese New Year approaches, the last couple of dried seafood stores standing in Petaling Street are bustling as customers flock in to stock their pantry in preparation for reunion dinner. Chai Huat Hin is exceptionally busy, as customers return repeatedly over decades, even though some of them might have moved to other neighbourhoods or migrated overseas. Many younger family members accompany their elders to learn how to identify and choose the ingredients. Friendly and knowledgeable staff members are on hand to assist, offering suggestions and tips on adding texture, flavour, and nutrition to their dishes.
Chai Huat Hin offers an extensive assortment of products, with wild fungi and game from natural origins and premium dried seafood such as abalone, sea cucumber, fish maw, oyster, and scallops. An
Passing on the wisdom of Traditional Chinese Medicine and benefitting the community | Kien Fatt Medical Store
Kien Fatt Medical Store is the most long-standing traditional Chinese medicine (TCM) store in Petaling Street, established for well over 80 years, houses a Chinese herbal apothecary, a TCM clinic, and a pharmacy selling over-the-counter Western medicine all under one roof. Over the years, Kien Fatt Medical Store offers affordable TCM treatment and prescriptions for the public to help maintain their overall bodily health.
Between the late 19th and early 20th centuries, Petaling Street was a central hub for Chinese immigrants who came to Malaya to seek a living. It is where they eventually settled down and businesses sprung up to satisfy their daily needs. Back then, those who ran medical stores were typically well-educated and knowledgeable in traditional Chinese medicine. When Kien Fatt first opened its doors in 1942, a scholar was hired to manage the shop, who also doubled as an in-house TCM practitioner. Most of the Chinese labourers would come to seek help when they encountered health issues or needed someone to write letters home.
Traditional Chinese medicine (TCM) originated in ancient China and has evolved over thousands of years, using herbs, acupuncture, and other methods to treat a wide range of conditions. Chinese herbal medicines are mainly plant based, but some preparations include minerals or animal products. They can be packaged as powders, pastes, lotions or tablets, depending on the herb and its intended use. The work in a Chinese herbal apothecary requires tremendous effort, the most challenging part involves memorizing hundreds of classic herbal medicine formulas, understanding the pharmacological and toxicological properties of each herb as well as multi-herb correlation to prevent undesirable side effects. For a start, one needs to learn to identify all kinds of herbs, and how to classify and store them. One then gets familiar with the Baizi cabinet (literally translates as 100 cabinets), eventually knowing the contents of each drawer by heart.
Human Touch that Permeates the City's Back Alleys | Sai Kee Hawker Stall
Upon entering the alley between Jalan Petaling and Jalan Sultan, the warm, comforting smell of delicious food makes one’s mouth water. Situated directly behind Kong Wooi Fong Tea Merchants, tucked beneath gray tarpaulin sheets, is the last remaining stir-fry stall in this alley – Sai Kee, which offers homely Cantonese cuisine made to order.
In the past, the alleyways around Petaling Street were filled with simple food stalls and temporary seating, offering a variety of affordable meals while also serving as community gathering spots. However, in recent years, such "Dai Pai Dong" hawker culture has gradually declined, and now the number of food stalls in the alley is few and far between. Despite the abundance of restaurants and cafés along the main streets, laneway hawkers are the go-to for comfort food.
The stall has always occupied the same spot since being established decades ago by Uncle Lai Seng Wai’s grandfather, who hailed from Panyu in Guangdong, China. At first it was an unnamed stall with no fixed menu, which served claypot chicken rice at one point, economy rice at another, and changed to serving Hokkien noodles when Uncle Lai’s father inherited the stall. Towards the end of 1969, the menu was revamped to serving stir-fry. Uncle Lai sees no reason for change when he took over the reins, therefore he retains his father’s cooking method and recipes.
Popular dishes include braised fish with tofu, sweet and sour pork, french beans with roasted pork, and fish paste soup, among others. All ingredients are freshly purchased and prepared daily. The signature fish balls are made from wild-caught mackerel, chopped, mixed, and beaten by hand to achieve a firm, chewy texture.
Bright orange flames momentarily shoot up as Uncle Lai Seng Wai ladles oil into a hot wok, engulfing the ingredients upon their being added. Uncle Lai stirs deftly with a stainless steel spatula, then instead of tossing the wok, he covers it with a flat metal lid and let the flames
Weaving blessings in vibrant colors | Flower Garland Maker in Petaling Street
At dawn, the sound of bells and conch shells from the Sri Maha Mariamman Temple on Jalan Tun H.S. Lee in Kuala Lumpur heralds the start of daily prayer sessions. At the same time, about a dozen flower garland vendors set up their stalls in the adjacent alley. Fresh flowers in pure white, bright yellow, and vibrant red are skillfully woven into garlands and displayed on stands, creating an eye-catching scenery. Occasionally stirred by a playful breeze, the garlands emit delightful fragrances.
The Petaling Street area is a cultural melting pot. While the majority of residents are of Chinese ethnicity, there are also many from other ethnic groups, each building their own temples in the neighbourhood. The Hindu temple and the Kuan Ti Temple sit across from each other, coexisting peacefully for over a century. A row of garland stalls are located next to the Hindu temple, providing convenience for worshippers from both temples to purchase garlands as offerings. Uncle Anamalay Nadaraj (Kartik) has been making and selling garlands in the Petaling Street area for the longest duration, working up to fifteen hours a day i conjunction with the temple's opening hours, and rarely taking a break in over thirty years. During major festivals like Thaipusam and Deepavali, he even work overnight to fulfill orders.
Uncle Kartik was born into a family constantly filled with the fragrance of flowers. His grandfather planted various flowers in their yard, and from a young age, he helped to pluck fresh flowers in the morning, hence developing an interest and learning to make garlands from his grandfather and mother. After graduating from high school, he set up his own stall in Brickfields to make and sell garlands. By chance, he obtained a business license in the Petaling Street area and relocated there. Due to the different demographic makeup of the area, compared to the predominantly Indian community in Brickfields, he expanded his customer base to include people from all three major e
Keeping Traditions Alive with Artisanal Chinese Pastries | Seong Ying Chai
Pastries are not just a type of food; they are also an essential part of life rituals. Whether for celebrations or important festivals, pastries are often given as gifts. In Chinese culinary culture, pastries are said to have originated during the Han Dynasty and was a general term for wheat-based products. Depending on the region and heritage, the methods of making pastries, their flavors, and shapes vary. After early generations of Chinese migrants settled in Malaysia, the tradition of Chinese pastries, or “Han bing”, became diluted through time and cultural integration. However, Seong Ying Chai, a longstanding establishment at Jalan Sultan in Kuala Lumpur, continues to keep the legacy of Chinese pastries alive.
The exact founding year of Seong Ying Chai is not clearly documented, but it can be traced back to a business license issued in 1935. In its early years, it was a Shunde cuisine restaurant, famous as one of the “Four Greatest Restaurants of Petaling Street alongside Bunn Choon, Seng Kee, and Yook Woo Hin. All members of the staff underwent rigorous training to master various skills, from cooking and pastry-making to performing arts, ensuring that everyone is a capable all-rounder. After the restaurant closed down a few years ago, the third-generation heir, Lee Kim Fook (Leonard), decided to shift the focus to the production and cultural preservation of Chinese pastries. The three most popular categories being bridal pastries, mooncakes, and new year cookies.
Seong Ying Chai keenly promote bridal pastries due to their profound significance. In the traditional betrothal ceremony, the groom prepares six or twelve gifts to the bride’s family, bridal pastries occupy two of them. This serves two purposes: first, to express the groom’s gratitude to the bride’s parents for raising her; in the past they were transported by carrying poles or bullock carts, the larger the amount of pastries, the greater the sincerity. Second, the bride’s family distri
Making Performing Arts Accessible To All | Orang Orang Drum Theatre
The drum's origins can be traced back thousands of years to ancient civilizations across the globe, in a wide variety of shapes and sizes. Drums were used in military communications and warfare, religious rituals, as well as dance and music performances. A drum produces simple sounds: “dum dum” by hitting the drumhead and “da da” by hitting the rim. Even with varying tempos, rhythms, and force, it does not suffice to express emotional changes. Orang Orang Drum Theatre takes drumming to another level by combining drums with vocals, movement, theatrical aspects and ethnic musical instruments, as well as traditional folk songs, into their works. The integration of theatrical expression and music’s ability to convey emotions nonverbally turns drummers from percussion accompaniment into performers enacting stories onstage.
Splitting the Chinese character “众” (crowd) into three “人” (people) side by side symbolizes everyone is equal, and it can also be interpreted as “There is always someone that one can learn from among a trio”. Orang Orang Drum Theatre was founded in 2013 by Boyz Chew and Zyee Liew, with the core belief that performing arts is people-oriented, thus striving to break down barriers between performing arts and the audience. The essence of performing arts lies in fostering connections, expressing and eliciting thoughts and feelings at the same time, and cannot exist without involving people. Their ultimate goal is to make performing arts accessible to all, to create resonance between people, and to create shared memories.
Boyz and Zyee realised that performing arts encompass a wide range of forms and styles, despite their started out from 24 Festive Drums instead of receiving formal performing arts education. By keeping their minds open, apart from being proficient in drumming, they explore different possibilities of narratives and expression methods, and collaborate with artists from various fields. Whenever they perform abroad,
Ho Yoke Kee : Traditional Cantonese Candies
Traditional Cantonese candies embody ancient wisdom. They preserve the shape and taste of the original fruit, albeit more exquisite. Before the invention of the refrigerator, slicing fruits and vegetables to boil with sugar and then air-dry could extend their shelf life without causing wastage and make them more delicious. The Cantonese use homophones to give candies auspicious meanings, making them a must-have festive snack during Chinese New Year. Candied coconuts mean three generations living together; candied ginger slices mean longevity; candied green peppers mean attracting wealth; candied carrots mean a house full of gold and jade; candied lotus seeds mean having children; and candied horseshoes mean getting things done successfully. Traditional Cantonese candies are also used in worship as offerings to welcome wealth and blessings, hence also known as fortune candies or five-color candies.
In Petaling Street, Kuala Lumpur, which used to be a dominant Chinese settlement, only Ho Yoke Kee, a long-established street vendor that has been operating for decades, is still manually making and selling traditional Cantonese candies. On one side of the stall is a steamer filled with a hill-like pile of various rice dumplings, whereas on the other side is a wide selection of traditional Cantonese candies. From 6AM to 6PM, mother-in-law and daughter-in-law duo Yap Nyat Foong and Chong Yoke Yean take turns looking after the stall, while the third-generation successor Ho Chee Keong is in charge of preparations.
Ho Yoke Kee was originally named Ho Dui Kee. The founder, Ho Dui, came to Petaling Street from Dongguan, Guangdong, China in the first half of the 20th century and settled down in Petaling Street, selling lotus roots and other fruits and vegetables to make a living. Facing the unsold lotus roots, fruits and vegetables, he came up with the idea of making them into candies according to the traditional method of his hometown. Later, his son Ho Yoke and his daug
Wong Mee Coffee Stall
At 4.30AM, night owls have not yet fallen asleep, the city has not yet woken up, street lights illuminate dust that has not yet been kicked up by traffic. A MPV drove slowly into the dark alley behind the Public Bank building on Jalan Tun HS Lee and pulled over aside. Uncle Wong Hoong Hon got out of the car and unlocked the fence of "Wong Mee Coffee Stall". This small plot accommodated his daily necessities. Uncle Wong turned on the lights, washed the cups and plates, boiled the drinking water, and then set up tables and chairs on the roadside. With everything in place, he sat on the stool in front of the stall, looking at the brightening sky and waiting for customers.
The rosy morning glow peeked out shyly from behind the tall buildings, and the alleys began to crowd with people. Around 7.30AM, customers flock in, filling the empty seats. Neighbourhood residents came for their daily drinks, office workers hurriedly left after eating, and travellers from afar took a rest. Long-term close friends with graying hair on their temples gathered here as usual. Everyone smoked, chatted, and spent the morning laughing and joking. When Uncle Wong's finally made it through the morning rush, he joined them until other customers show up.
The rich coffee and tea has maintained the livelihood of Uncle Wong Hoong Hon and his father Wong Mee for two generations, and the fragrant aroma lingers in their ordinary lives. Wong Mee started a coffee and tea-making business decades ago in a small shack not far from the current location, and his wife and children helped deliver it to customers in nearby shops. The busiest times every day were the tea breaks at 10AM and 3PM. Wong Hoong Hon, who was still young at that time, had to bring a tray laden with drinks and send to a dozen shops. When he grew up, he went out to work, but when his father passed away in 1987, he resigned and returned home to run the coffee stall with his mother.
Despite having relocated about 30 years ago, Wong Mee C
Handmade Bao in Petaling Street
[English subtitles: click ⋯ > Captions > ON]
Catty-corner to the Ka Yin Fui Kon building at Jalan Sultan, Kuala Lumpur, a tarpaulin makeshift roof in the alley between two rows of double-storey shophouses shelters a crude hawker stall. Billows of steam arise from the multi-tiered bamboo steamer on top of the gas stove, marking the spot of Tuck Kee Dim Sum Pau. About 60 years ago, the alley was bustling with hawker stalls selling rice and porridge, cockle noodles soup, stuffed tofu, beef brisket noodles soup, wonton noodles, chee cheong fun, fruits and so on. Along with changing times, most hawkers either moved elsewhere, switched careers, or retired. Tuck Kee alone remains operating in the same place.
The second-generation owner, Chan Kam Weng, is born in 1965, the same year the bao stall was founded. A native KL-ite of Petaling Street, he took over his father’s unnamed bao stall upon finishing middle school. As a tribute to the struggling and enduring story of his father’s migration from China to Malaysia, Chan Kam Weng named the bao stall Tuck Kee after his father, who learnt bao-making skills and set up the stall to upkeep a family with nine children.
In the past, Petaling Street was a bustling area, several families lived together in the upper storey of the shophouses. In the evening, they would come downstairs for tea and supper. Tuck Kee has its own water and electricity supply, hence no need to draw from neighbouring shophouses. Opening from 7P.M. until the wee hours, Tuck Kee sells various types of bao and dimsum, as well as making tea. During those busy times, six to seven siblings help out at the stall. Later on, the numbers diminished, Chan Kam Weng alone persisted in the business for more than 40 years. As more and more old neighbours moved out of Petaling Street, Uncle Chan had to reduce his product line and adjust business hours. Nowadays the bao stall is open from 11A.M. to 3P.M., the only items on the menu include char siu bao (barbecued po
Tai Kwong Hardware
[English subtitles: click ⋯ > Captions > ON]
Towering wooden shelves stand within the unpretentious shophouse, seemingly unobstructed yet hinting at mysteries, head upstairs and find the storage place with mezzanine floors. All kinds of hardware accessories are arranged in an orderly manner, according to category, brand, and size. The yellowing labels indicate the passage of time, yet the neat marker pen handwriting remains legible. Both veterans and rookies are able to quickly and accurately locate products that customers need. The inventory is a mix of new and old items, such as old-fashioned paraffin blow torch, drop-forged steel wrenches directly imported from Europe, as well as safety boots and hammers which are in high demand recently.
Tai Kwong Hardware Trading occupies a pre-war double-storey shophouse at the first section of Jalan Petaling, near the intersection with Jalan Tun Tan Cheng Lock. Since its establishment in 1945, there has been no elaborate furnishings, only solid wooden shelves expanding upwards due to increasing inventory, and self-built mezzanine floors which made up the third and fourth floors. The five original founders (Soo, Lee, Chong, Kim, and Tan) all passed away, currently the second and third generations are in charge, with long-serving staff of 30-40 years, including loyal employees promoted to directorship.
Hardware trading covers a comprehensive range of materials, from large hardware such as sheet metal and construction materials, to small hardware such as tools and accessories, necessary in day to day life. Due to different target markets, large hardware resort to wholesale distribution while small hardware are sold retail. Tai Kwong is among the very few companies that operate both a retail shop selling small hardware and a warehouse selling large hardware such as bronze foil and lead sheets.
The early days of Tai Kwong’s establishment coincided with post-World War II reconstruction, hardware was in high demand, the foun
Deities Procession at Yuè Shān Gǔ Miào in Kuala Kubu Bharu
[English subtitles: click ⋯ > Captions > ON]
In the wee hours of the morning, a number of Kuala Kubu Bharu village residents are busy preparing a tableful of offerings in front of their house, gathering on the roadside to look around in anticipation. As the sun breaks through the clouds, drumming and firecrackers crackling fill the air, about a thousand devotees throng around Yuè Shān Gǔ Miào where the Shī Yé patrol procession begin, heading into each and every alley of the local village to shower blessings, and then the town before returning to the temple. The entire route measures about seven kilometres. Along the way, devotees kneel and pray to the deities for protection over their families, as well as exchanging incense and offerings with the procession.
The main deities of Yuè Shān Gǔ Miào are the Third Shī Yé and Fourth Shī Yé, Third Shī Yé being Kapitan Shin Kap alias Kapitan Sheng Meng Li, the Kapitan of Sungei Ujong or Seremban who was worshipped upon his demise in war; Fourth Shī Yé being Chung Lai, a commander who fought together with Yap Ah Loy and lost his life in the Selangor Civil War. As a memorial to the two late Hakka leaders who fought hard to protect the community, they were venerated in the same temple by Yap Ah Loy. Eventually a religious cult was established by the Hakka clan in Malaya, which later on spread to various settlements, watching over the development of tin mining towns.
Yuè Shān Gǔ Miào was built in 1895, overlooking and safeguarding the village and town of Kuala Kubu Bharu. Initially Kuala Kubu in Ulu Selangor, the town was founded on tin mining and rubber cultivation. Six decades ago, disaster befell the town, after consultation with deities, Shī Yé went on a patrol procession to drive away evils therefore restoring peace. Since then, the procession became a triannual event held on the 15th day of the second lunar month, with a three-day ritual ceremony.
The current president of the organizing committ
