
01/08/2025
Railway Pie starts serving its pizza and more
By GEORGE AUSTIN
SOMERSET - There are a lot of pizza places in town, but the new Railway Pie is a little different.
The restaurant, that just opened for business yesterday at 938 Lees River Avenue, not only operates out of an old train car, but serves craft pizza that is made with sourdough.
The sourdough in the pizza is made with organic flours, sea salt and olive oil. There are no chemicals sprayed on the grains that are used. A wild fermentation process is used, so it's not like commercial yeast. They employ a sourdough in a different strain than the traditional yeast. While a lot of places that use dough in their pizza make the dough the same day, Railway Pie makes its dough three days ahead of time.
"It takes a little bit longer, but we think it's worth it," Railway Pie owner Paul Booras said of making the sourdough.
The craft pizza, instead of being mass produced, is an artisan product. The ingredients for the pizza consist of crushed imported San Marzano tomatoes with a touch of sea salt and herbs, topped with locally made whole milk and buffalo milk mozzarella, and Pecorino Romano cheeses.There is a margherita pizza with crushed tomato, fresh mozzarella, torn basil and evoo. The Dilly-O pizza has pickles, bacon, jalapeno and hot honey. Pulled pork, bacon and garlic sausage is used to make what the restaurant calls the 3 Little Pigs pizza. There are also pizzas made with pepperoni, meatballs, chicken, ham and pineapple. Diners or those who get pizza for takeout can choose from the well known New Haven pizza thin crust style or the Detroit pan thick crust. Pink vodka or alfredo sauces can also be added to the pizza that the restaurant makes.
The sandwiches at Railway Pie are made with sourdough based ciabatta rolls.
"Everything we bake, even the cookies, it's a sourdough formulation," Booras said.
Some of the sandwiches on the menu include a pink cutlet with chicken, fresh mozzarella and pink vodka sauce, a Smokin' Butt with pulled pork, smoked bacon, barbecue sauce, pickles and cheddar and an Athena with grilled chicken, avocado, lettuce and tomato and a lemon herb vinaigrette, among others.
Pastas, appetizers and salads are also on the menu. Imported Organic Durum Semolina, cooked Al Dente, is used in the pasta.
At the bar, they are serving drafts and bottled beer, cider and seltzer, fresh brews, wines, wine cocktails and refreshers.
For the sweet tooth, there are cookies, brownies, whoopie pies and Boston cream puffs.
Booras has been making sourdough since 1996. He said it takes a little longer to ferment the sourdough than it does for industrial dough. But he said the sourdough has a better flavor. The sourdough helps to make the pizza, bread and other offerings on the menu healthier for customers. Sourdough has digestive benefits.
"It's just a different animal," Booras said. "It's the way we used to do it. People got away from it in the '50s when we wanted to do things faster and cheaper."
Booras said there were no gluten intolerances back in the 1950s, like there are today.
Booras has done a lot of renovations inside the train car which has been the home to several other restaurants over the years. He put in new flooring and ceiling lighting, did some painting, renovated the kitchen and put in a bar. Booras said the property owner built a takeout platform for the restaurant which was very generous.
"I've been doing this my whole life," Booras said. "I've opened restaurants for myself. I've opened them for other people."
Three years ago, Booras and his kids started making pizza and bread in his garage and selling them. He opened the Rehoboth Baking Company two years ago.
Railway Pie has opened with limited hours that are 4 p.m. to 8 p.m.on Sunday, Wednesday, Thursday, Friday and Saturday. Railway Pie is planning to add lunch hours in the coming days or weeks.