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Maroof Culmen In an obsession to find art at the root
of life, in experiences and people.

As a child, my father and I often ventured to Moongphali Mandi, a bustling peanut market near the City Railway Station i...
27/11/2023

As a child, my father and I often ventured to Moongphali Mandi, a bustling peanut market near the City Railway Station in Lucknow. This place, etched in my memory, is where I first learned to appreciate the simpler joys of life.

Winter in Lucknow brings a special charm, and Moongphali Mandi is at the heart of this seasonal transformation. The onset of winter marks the awakening of this market, but it’s in December that it truly flourishes. The air, thick with the aroma of roasted peanuts, would guide us to the market long before we saw it.

Walking through Moongphali Mandi today, I’m instantly transported back to those days. The sight of women, their hands moving rhythmically as they roast peanuts, is a testament to the market’s enduring spirit. Their dedication and skill have always fascinated me, adding a unique character to the market.

What truly makes Moongphali Mandi special is its ability to evoke nostalgia. Each visit reminds me of my childhood— the excitement, the bustling crowds, and the joy of sharing warm, freshly roasted peanuts with my father. These memories, though from a simpler time, continue to enrich my life and work.

As I stroll through the market now, the sensory overload is overwhelming yet comforting. The crackling sound of peanuts roasting, the warmth of the fires, and the chatter of excited customers create a symphony that’s uniquely Lucknowi. It’s a reminder of the city’s rich heritage and the simple pleasures that define it.

Recently, while filming in the early hours in Lucknow, we needed shots of old houses. Our search led us to Raja Bazaar, ...
24/11/2023

Recently, while filming in the early hours in Lucknow, we needed shots of old houses. Our search led us to Raja Bazaar, a historic quarter known for its architectural beauty. As we navigated the narrow lanes, documenting the area, our presence often piqued the curiosity of locals. Many stopped to inquire about our work, and some even suggested more intriguing sites.

However, that morning brought an unexpected and delightful encounter. We met Mr. Achal Jain, who was on his way to open his shop. His interest in our project led to an extraordinary offer: a tour of his ancestral home, the Jain Bhawan. Setting aside his morning routine, he guided us to this architectural gem, built by his forebears.

The house, a testament to heritage, stood there in all its splendor. Mr. Jain shared his childhood memories linked to this magnificent abode, bringing the walls and corridors to life. Although I usually delve into the history and architectural styles of such houses, this time, I was captivated by Mr. Jain's enthusiasm to share his heritage. This experience, enriched by his personal touch, holds a special place in my heart.

Have you ever met someone as forthcoming with their heritage? Feel free to share your experiences in the comments.

Chhath Puja, a venerable tradition nestled in the heart of Lucknow, reverberates with timeless devotion on the sacred gh...
20/11/2023

Chhath Puja, a venerable tradition nestled in the heart of Lucknow, reverberates with timeless devotion on the sacred ghats of Gomti. As the golden hues of dawn kiss the serene waters, the city awakens to the mellifluous chants and rhythmic clangs of cymbals. Women, draped in vibrant sarees, their hands adorned with intricate henna patterns, gather with unwavering piety.

The Gomti River, a lifeline of Lucknow, transforms into a divine altar where offerings to the Sun God are made. The hands of these devout women, raising earthen lamps and holy offerings, become the focal point of this celestial homage. Each palm, etched with stories of heritage and faith, rises not just to the sky but also towards the generations of cultural legacy embedded in the very soul of this city.

Chhath Puja is not merely a festival; it is a testament to the symbiotic bond between the people and the river, a mirror reflecting Lucknow's spiritual ethos. As these women stand knee-deep in the Gomti's embrace, their silent prayers ripple across the water, encapsulating the spirit of a tradition that transcends the mere act of worship. It is in these gestures, these silent murmurings of hope and gratitude, that the true essence of Chhath Puja and Lucknow's rich cultural heritage comes alive.

Upon visiting Lucknow, the Bada Imambara and Rumi Darwaza stand as the city's iconic landmarks, deeply intertwined with ...
14/11/2023

Upon visiting Lucknow, the Bada Imambara and Rumi Darwaza stand as the city's iconic landmarks, deeply intertwined with its identity. Whether you're a tourist or guiding a friend through Lucknow's rich heritage, a visit to the Bada Imambara is essential. At its entrance, the ticket counter offers a "combo ticket" - a convenient package allowing access to five historical sites: the Bada Imambara, the maze-like Bhool Bhulaiya, the Shahi Baoli, the Picture Gallery, and the Chota Imambara.

Exploring these sites typically spans about two hours. While each has its unique charm, the Chota Imambara often leaves a lasting impression. Known for its exquisite art and calligraphy, this monument embodies a blend of architectural ingenuity and artistic finesse. The intricate designs and detailed calligraphy adorning its walls speak volumes of the skilled artisans of the era. The serene atmosphere of the Chota Imambara, in contrast with the bustling surroundings, offers a moment of tranquility amidst a journey through time.

The Chota Imambara, also known as Hussainabad Imambara, is a remarkable testament to the city's past, built in 1839 by Mohammed Ali Shah as a token of his gratitude and faith. This architectural gem features glittering gold-plated domes and two triple-arched gateways, leading to a compound that houses not just the main hall and other apartments, but also a small lake with a replica of the Taj Mahal. Within its walls, you'll find the Azakhana, adorned with crystal chandeliers, where the majlis or mourning assembly is held, underlining the structure's religious significance. Mohammed Ali Shah is buried here alongside his mother, making it a site of both historical and emotional weight.

In conclusion, while a tour of these monuments can be exhaustive, the experience is enriching, painting a vivid picture of Lucknow's historical and cultural magnificence. Each site, especially the Chota Imambara, is a testament to the city's legacy, making them must-visit destinations for anyone eager to delve into the heart of Lucknow's heritage.

13/11/2023

While ‘Jamghat’ means coming together to maintain social relationships and harmony among everyone in the city, the festival witnesses the participation of all the religious groups with immense jubilation.
Also known as ‘Patangbazi’, kite-flying is an ancient tradition that has been an integral part of this festival for ages. Even now this recreational activity continues, especially in Lucknow with full vigor and skies full of legions of kites in varied shapes and hues flown by people from numerous kite-flying clubs across the city.
Ever since the Nawabs ruled Lucknow almost two centuries ago, mass production of these kites has taken place with the precision of some eminent personalities. One of the oldest and most popular kitemakers, 85-year-old Ustad Ali Nawab has indulged himself in the creation of some of his best kites for professional kite flyers for more than 70 years.
Introduced by the Chinese travelers Hiuen Tsang and Fa Hein, the tradition of kite-flying also embraced an intense interest of Nawab Asaf-ud-Daulah. Started off as a hobby during that era, kite-flying has turned out to be a tradition with the participation of people from all religions and age groups.
Since the legacy got carried to date, the skyline of Lucknow undergoes a beautiful transformation with manifold colored kites gliding under the vast blue canopy.

In the heart of Lucknow's old city, our day was as eventful as ever, immersed in the vibrant bazaars like Aminabad, Yahi...
10/11/2023

In the heart of Lucknow's old city, our day was as eventful as ever, immersed in the vibrant bazaars like Aminabad, Yahiyaganj, Nakkhas, and Chowk.

Each market here tells its own story: Aminabad with its array of general and decorative items; Nakkhas and Chowk, the go-to places for local specialties and exquisite Chikankari embroidery; and Yahiyaganj, famed for utensils and wholesale treasures.

Today, with Dhanteras casting its festive spell, the utensil market was buzzing more than ever, an irresistible sight for my camera.

A quirky twist I adore about Lucknow is how locals playfully twist words, like calling Yahiyaganj 'Aiya ganj'. It's these small details that make the city's charm so unique and endearing.

When I began documenting heritage monuments, I believed there must be a meaningful purpose behind such endeavors. My aim...
07/11/2023

When I began documenting heritage monuments, I believed there must be a meaningful purpose behind such endeavors. My aim was not just to document these sites, but to ignite a sense of care and respect for them among people. I strongly feel that we, as citizens, have the power to make a significant difference in preserving our heritage and culture, far beyond what any organization or authority could achieve. This requires a shift in our perspective towards these historical treasures.

Over the years, I've seen a positive change. More content about these monuments is being created, and people are starting to view them differently. They are keen to learn more, and a sense of pride in our heritage is blossoming. It's a small yet meaningful shift, signaling that our efforts are bearing fruit.

Today, my focus extends to the artisans who are the custodians of our local art forms. While supporting a few artisans through my platform is impactful, it's the collective change in how we, as a society, view and value these local art forms and their creators that will bring about substantial change. This is why I encourage more people to join this journey of documenting and celebrating our local arts, to help shift public perception and give these art forms the recognition they deserve.

This Diwali, let's embrace and take pride in our local art forms. Let's celebrate the spirit of India by acknowledging and uplifting the incredible talent of our artisans.

Begum Akhtar, born in Faizabad as Akhtari Bai Faizabadi, has an indelible association with the cultural fabric of Luckno...
30/10/2023

Begum Akhtar, born in Faizabad as Akhtari Bai Faizabadi, has an indelible association with the cultural fabric of Lucknow. She moved to the city as a young child and soon became synonymous with the rich musical tradition Lucknow is famous for. Often hailed as the "Queen of Ghazals," she made a lasting impact on the genre, elevating it to unprecedented heights.

Her life journey is nothing short of inspiring. She faced many obstacles early on, from a challenging childhood to battling societal norms. Yet, she found her calling in music, going on to train under classical stalwarts like Ustad Wahid Khan of Lahore. Over the years, her emotive renditions not only of ghazals but also of other forms of classical and light-classical music won her innumerable accolades, including the prestigious Sangeet Natak Akademi Award and Padma Shri.

A visit to her house in Lucknow, now a heritage building, gives one a glimpse into her rich legacy. The humble abode reverberates with an aura of musical excellence, frozen in time yet timeless.

After her demise in 1974, her grave in Lucknow became a place of homage. The Sadbhavna Trust and Sanatkada have played pivotal roles in maintaining it, keeping her memory alive. Their work serves as a tribute to her indomitable spirit and her unparalleled contribution to music.

In the realm of literature, the book "Akhtari" by Yatindra Mishra encapsulates her life and artistry in a comprehensive manner. This book is often considered a must-read for anyone interested in understanding the enigma that was Begum Akhtar.

Zarina Begum, the last disciple to have had performed with her, carried on her legacy for long. She’d fondly recount the tales of her time with Begum Akhtar, preserving and passing on the invaluable teachings she received.

In today's world, where trends in music are ever-changing, remembering Begum Akhtar is essential. She serves as a beacon reminding us of the depth and soulfulness that music can achieve. In an era dominated by fleeting moments of fame, her life and work stand as a testament to the enduring power of true artistry.

Fairs, or 'melas,' were once a cornerstone of childhood for my generation. The anticipation that built up around these e...
24/10/2023

Fairs, or 'melas,' were once a cornerstone of childhood for my generation. The anticipation that built up around these events was immense, to the point where we would diligently save our pocket money just to splurge at these fairs. Back then, these melas were the highlight of our lives as kids. The vivid lights illuminating the night sky, and the distant but distinct sounds that filled the air, come flooding back every time I think about visiting these fairs with my parents.

Safety instructions were a ritual before leaving the house. Our parents would sternly remind us to never let go of their hands, underlining the sheer scale and crowded nature of these events. The fear of children getting lost was always a looming cloud, signaling just how massive these melas used to be.

The key attractions at the Dussehra fairs were truly iconic: clay toys ('mitti ke khilone'), piggy banks ('gullak'), and toy bows and arrows ('teer kamaa'). Beyond these delights, the main spectacle was undoubtedly the Ramlila performance, and the towering effigy of Raavan that filled us with awe.

I fondly remember my grandfather's stories about the 'melas' and 'numaish' of his time. He lamented how the scale had diminished over the years, and now, as I witness these fairs gradually fading away, I feel a similar sense of loss. The dwindling number of stalls and the lack of enthusiasm among today's kids make me realize that these fairs are on the brink of becoming a lost tradition.

A thought crosses my mind: perhaps our exposure to the world has dampened our capacity for wonder. In an era where everything is readily available, the thrill of anticipation has been replaced by a constant stream of instant gratification. As we evolve as a civilization, it's perhaps inevitable, but it's also painful for those of us who have witnessed this transition. We are slowly but surely losing touch with traditions that once made our lives magical, leaving behind only a sense of nostalgia that is as bittersweet as it is poignant.

When I first set out to explore Lucknow, the inaugural book that captivated my attention was Abdul Haleem Sharar’s “Guzi...
23/10/2023

When I first set out to explore Lucknow, the inaugural book that captivated my attention was Abdul Haleem Sharar’s “Guzishta Lucknow.” Known as the definitive guide to Lucknow, it was originally penned in Urdu and has served as a foundational reference for numerous works that followed. Later, I discovered that Oxford University Press had translated the book, capturing its essence in the title “The Last Phase of the Oriental Culture.” This phrase resonated deeply within me, and as I continued my explorations—both literary and literal—it seemed as if I saw echoes of this “last phase” wherever I looked in the old city.

The very fabric of Lucknow seemed to be fraying at the edges. Majestic monuments were beginning to crumble, once-celebrated art forms were nearing extinction, and artisans were grappling with new ways to sustain their craft. In an era where machines have eclipsed handwork, where age-old recipes are being forgotten, and so much more is on the brink of being lost, I felt a profound sense of sorrow. What could I, a lone individual, do to stave off this irreversible cultural erosion?

Among the many aspects of Lucknow that enchanted me were the hand-painted signboards. Every brushstroke, every color, every font seemed imbued with purpose and history. What captivated me the most was the small, lovingly-crafted signature that artists would leave in the corner, along with the date—a small yet significant tribute to a dying craft. These signboards were not mere pieces of wood or metal; they were canvases that told stories, each one unique because it was hand-painted. The advent of modern technology has certainly made it easier to produce signboards quickly, replete with flashy lights and digital designs, but to me, the magnetic allure still lies in those hand-painted signboards, gasping for breath in what truly feels like the last phase of oriental culture.

Thus, I felt compelled to document and digitally preserve these fragments of a fading world. I couldn’t sit idly by and watch these elements of our heritage dissolve into the annals of history. The very thought was too painful to bear. And so, I took it upon myself to do whatever I could to capture and sustain these vestiges of a culture on the brink, breathing life into the stories that are still left to be told.

Growing up in the vintage lanes of old Lucknow, the art of Zardozi has been a consistent backdrop to my childhood memori...
18/10/2023

Growing up in the vintage lanes of old Lucknow, the art of Zardozi has been a consistent backdrop to my childhood memories. In this age-old part of the city, every second house transformed into an "adda" during the day, a space where artisans would sit together, painstakingly weaving threads of gold and silver into fabrics.

Zardozi, a Persian word meaning “sewing with gold string,” has a storied past that transcends centuries. Originating in Persia and brought to India by the Mughals, this intricate art form quickly found patronage among the nobility. Initially designed to embellish the robes of royals, Zardozi became synonymous with opulence and grandeur. Over time, this craft trickled down to the common populace, becoming a staple of Lucknow’s rich cultural heritage.

Unfortunately, the modern era has been a challenging time for Zardozi. The art form is grappling with issues such as mechanization and diminishing interest among the younger generation. This is where has stepped in and played a crucial role. By seamlessly blending Zardozi into contemporary fashion collections and giving it a global platform, has not only contributed to the revival of this ancient art but also supported the livelihoods of numerous artisans who depend on it.

In conclusion, the true custodians of Zardozi are the artisans who have dedicated their lives to perfecting this craft. Working tirelessly in their “addas,” these craftsmen and women are the backbone of this art form. Their hands tell stories, not just through the motifs they create but also through the rich cultural history they are striving to keep alive.

By celebrating these artisans and advocating for the revival of Zardozi, we do more than just preserve a craft; we breathe life into pages of history, making them relevant for the generations to come.

Continuing with my exploratory series on Ameenabad, I venture next into the intriguing lanes of Gadbad Jhala and Pratap ...
12/10/2023

Continuing with my exploratory series on Ameenabad, I venture next into the intriguing lanes of Gadbad Jhala and Pratap Market. My first brush with this market as a child was overwhelming, to say the least. The pulsating colors, the thrumming crowds - it was all too much for my young mind to grasp. Now, having revisited it as an adult, I understand why it stands as one of Lucknow's most frequented wholesale markets.

The name "Gadbad Jhala" itself evokes curiosity. Translating roughly to a "maze" or "labyrinth," it perfectly encapsulates the intricate, winding alleys of the market. Its complex layout, combined with the hustle and bustle, can often lead to delightful bouts of serendipity where one discovers shops and items they hadn't intended to!

Growing up, any celebratory occasion in the family, be it a birthday or a wedding, inevitably led to a trip to Gadbad Jhala. This was our one-stop destination for all decoration essentials and ceremonial paraphernalia. As we meandered through the lanes, purchasing trinkets here and textiles there, the promise of a delectable treat always loomed large. The highlight of these shopping sprees? A pitstop for some mouth-watering chat, a treat that made the entire journey worth it.

In today's era, when anything and everything is just a click away, delivered right to our doorsteps, do you still cherish the charm of traditional markets? The thrill of bargaining, the joy of stumbling upon something unexpected, the aroma of street food luring you in? Share your favorite market experiences with me. Let's revel in the nostalgia of days when shopping was not just a task but an adventure!

  On a brisk winter morning in Lucknow, a thick fog shrouded the city, making visibility almost nil. I recall the cold m...
07/10/2023

On a brisk winter morning in Lucknow, a thick fog shrouded the city, making visibility almost nil. I recall the cold making my hands tremble as I gripped the car’s steering wheel, and I noticed the same shiver on Shahid bhai’s face, who had joined me that dawn. Our destination? The majestic Rumi Darwaza. Despite the biting cold, our shared passion for documenting Lucknow’s heritage burned fiercely. From that day, there was no turning back.

What I later came to appreciate was the significance of accurate knowledge about the city’s rich culture and historic monuments. This realization prompted my next journey - a quest for books. I understood that relying solely on online information was insufficient. My reading journey not only deepened my connection with Lucknow but also offered insights into how the city was perceived in the past versus my contemporary view.

Today, I’m excited to share with you the top 10 books that have enriched my understanding of Lucknow. Stay tuned for part 2, where I’ll introduce the top 10 coffee table books on this beautiful city. And if you have other book recommendations, do drop them in the comments!

India, often termed a land of myriad possibilities, stands out in the global arena for its deep-rooted beliefs and tradi...
27/09/2023

India, often termed a land of myriad possibilities, stands out in the global arena for its deep-rooted beliefs and traditions. From majestic temples to the humblest of household rituals, every corner of this nation reverberates with the echo of faith. One such tradition, both poignant and pervasive, is the tying of the 'kalava' or 'mauli' around the wrist, a symbol of protection, blessings, and a spiritual bond.

The 'kalava' and 'mauli' are not just ordinary threads. Typically dyed in vibrant shades of red and sometimes interwoven with yellow or other colors, these strings are made of cotton or silk. They're usually tied by priests during religious ceremonies, or by elders as a mark of their blessings. The tying of the string is often accompanied by the recitation of mantras, further infusing the thread with sanctity and purpose.

Behind the simple act of tying the kalava lies a deep-seated belief system. Predominantly, it's seen as a talisman, warding off evil eyes and negative energies. It's believed that wearing the mauli protects the individual from adversities and ensures their well-being. Some people also wear it as a vow or commitment to a deity, a promise to perform a certain task or as a mark of having received divine blessings from a pilgrimage or temple visit. The thread serves as a daily reminder of that vow or blessing, guiding the individual in their actions.

Another fascinating aspect is the practice of tying these threads around trees, often seen in temple compounds or sacred groves. Devotees tie mauli around the trunks and branches while making a 'mannat' or a wish, hoping for divine intervention in their endeavors. The tree, symbolizing life and continuity, becomes a silent witness to countless hopes, dreams, and prayers, enhancing the aura of sanctity.

The universality of this practice is noteworthy. While it has its origins in Hindu traditions, the act of tying a sacred thread can be observed across various religions and communities in India. This is a testament to India's syncretic culture where beliefs traverse the boundaries of religion, morphing into practices that become integral parts of our shared cultural heritage.

Ever since my school days, the theory of relativity has been a challenging concept for me. My teacher once simplified it...
14/09/2023

Ever since my school days, the theory of relativity has been a challenging concept for me. My teacher once simplified it by saying that time moves differently for different objects based on various factors. This idea has stuck with me, and I often find myself drawing parallels with real-life situations. A notable example is how time seems to slow down in smaller towns compared to bustling metros. In these quieter places, people have the luxury of time. They engage in meaningful conversations, build deeper relationships, and foster a sense of community. This communal way of life is the backbone of our evolution and growth.

Recently, while shooting a video in Kota, I was struck by a scene at an old barber shop. Time seemed to stand still. People waited patiently, engaged in heartfelt conversations, or simply listened to the stories being shared. It was a stark contrast to the impersonal hustle of city life where we often remain strangers to our neighbors.

I cherish the India I grew up in, an India anchored in community and human connection. This spirit of togetherness fortifies us. Fortunately, vestiges of this ethos still thrive in pockets of our smaller towns. I remain hopeful that we can reignite this sense of community everywhere. I’d love to hear about your experiences and thoughts in the comments.

Discover Bibiapur Kothi: A Blend of History and Architecture 🏛️. Designed by the talented Claude Martin, this two-storey...
28/08/2023

Discover Bibiapur Kothi: A Blend of History and Architecture 🏛️. Designed by the talented Claude Martin, this two-storey European-style hunting lodge holds secrets of the Nawabs of Awadh. Once owned by Nawab Asaf-ud-Daulah, it witnessed crucial moments: from Mirza Wazir Ali's house arrest to the majestic Durbar for Nawab Saadat Ali Khan. 🌟

Did you know? This very Kothi saw India's first steam vessel excursions, crafted by an English engineer in 1819. Its gateway, though now lost, once stood as a testament to architectural fusion - a perfect blend of East meets West. ⏳

However, time has left its mark. Many of its rooms now lie roofless, and its once-sturdy structure needs our attention. As history enthusiasts and guardians of the past, it's our duty to ensure its tales aren't lost. 🛠️

Swipe through to journey into its past, and let's come together to champion its restoration.

The Tantalizing Tastes of Aminabad: A Trip Down Memory Lane with Namkeen ShopsThe bustling streets of Aminabad not only ...
21/08/2023

The Tantalizing Tastes of Aminabad: A Trip Down Memory Lane with Namkeen Shops

The bustling streets of Aminabad not only carry tales of times past, but they also hold an array of flavours that have tantalized taste buds for generations. Amidst the humdrum of the market, the wafting aromas from the local namkeen shops beckon you closer, promising a treat that’s hard to resist.

Namkeens, the crispy, savory delights have been an integral part of Lucknow's snack culture. Each shop has its unique blend of spices, techniques, and ingredients, bringing forth a legacy of flavors handed down through generations.

As a child, my trips to Aminabad were always incomplete without a visit to these namkeen shops. Every shopkeeper had a unique way of greeting kids, with a sparkle in their eyes they would hand over a small sample of namkeens for us to taste. This gesture, though simple, felt like a heartfelt embrace of Lucknawi hospitality.

Among the plethora of flavors, there's one that holds a special place in my heart - the sweet and tangy cornflakes namkeen. A delightful mix that perfectly captures the essence of Lucknow - a blend of rich traditions with a hint of modern flair.

Behind every counter and every jar, there are stories waiting to be told. Stories of families, traditions, and secret recipes passed down from one generation to the next. These aren't just shops; they're keepers of a culinary heritage that has made Aminabad a food lover's paradise.

Do you have a cherished memory associated with these namkeen shops in Aminabad? Or perhaps a favourite flavour that takes you back to the good old days? We'd love to hear from you. Share your tales and tastes in the comments below.

Let us introduce you to another fascinating aspect of Lucknow's culture and landscape. A popular market where ladies go ...
17/08/2023

Let us introduce you to another fascinating aspect of Lucknow's culture and landscape. A popular market where ladies go shopping, especially during the festive and wedding season, is the Mohan or Refugee Market in Aminabad, Lucknow.

After the partition of India in 1947, there was a large influx of refugees from across the border. The refugees were temporarily accommodated in Ghanta Ghar Park and soon set up shops there to sell their wares and earn their livelihood.

This led to the creation of three rows of makeshift shops that, over time, came to be known as Refugee Market. Even today, you can find everything from suits, sarees and Chikankari kurtas to blouses, sandals and accessories here. The shops are separated from each other via ingenious curtains. Today, many shops have even installed air-conditioning in a bid to attract customers.

As time passed, the word refugee with its negative connotations and painful memories was deemed to be an unfit name and that’s why when V. R. Mohan became the Mayor of Lucknow, he renamed the market, giving it the moniker-Mohan Market.

As Aminabad turned into a hub of commercial activity, gone are the days when it was the abode of celebrated poets, writers and educationists. Yet their couplets are still alive in the language of this place, its mannerisms and culture. Once the epicentre of the famous Lakhnawi Culture, Aminabad was earlier described as a place that would cast a spell over visitors, ensuring 'jo aake na jaye.'

So, what is your favorite memory of shopping in Aminabad's Mohan Market? Share with us in the comments below.

In this age of automated and large-scale commercial objects, it is rare to discover a place where you can find high-qual...
12/08/2023

In this age of automated and large-scale commercial objects, it is rare to discover a place where you can find high-quality manmade objects of art and utility. However, while strolling among the narrow alleyways of Old Lucknow, you may come across Yahiyaganj Bartan Bazaar, an old market with heavy, old-school styles pots, pans, plates and other utensils.

The market offers visitors hand-hammered utensils that are crafted and coated with brass, copper, aluminium or steel. These heavy and beautiful utensils play a crucial role in preparing a traditional Awadhi feast and are perfect for making a dum-cooked biryani or traditional mutton handi.

As people switch to non-stick cookware produced in modern factories, these craftsmen, who depend on the sale, repair and replating of these traditional utensils, are in danger of losing their livelihood. This includes qalaiwalas who restore the coating of these utensils using old-school materials and techniques. These disappearing craftsmen are the custodians of crafts passed down through the generations, yet it seems that they may be the last.

What do you think of these craftsmen and their art? Share with us in the comments below.

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