24/10/2020
📍Mt. Pulag (Playground of the Gods)
📸 Zerome Napigkit Bolivar
Kabayan, Benguet
Entry point: Akiki Ranger Station, Brgy. Doacan, Kabayan
Exit point: Brgy. Tawangan, Kabayan
LLA: 16°34’58″N 120°53’15″E, 2922 MASL
Days required / Hours to summit: 2-4 days / 9-12 hours
Specs: Major climb, Difficulty 7/9, Trail class 2-4
Features: Pine forests, mossy forests, Scenic grassland summit
BACKGROUND
The four classic trails of Mt. Pulag are Ambangeg, Akiki, Tawangan, and Ambaguio, and in the course of several hikes I have had the privilege of trying all of them. The recent years have seen Ambangeg becoming a tourist trail, and with hundreds of people on its main campsite during weekends, I think it is time to deemphasize the Ambangeg as the ‘main’ Pulag trail. Whether we like it or not, because of its easy access to the summit, people will flock there.
The purpose of this itinerary is to introduce a different Mt. Pulag experience, one that would appeal more to hikers, but in a way that is also doable within a weekend. It will be a radically different weekend: the unique trails you will pass through will span over 30 kilometers – thrice that of Ambangeg. In terms of hiking hours, we will also be looking at 10-hour days apiece, instead of the 8-hour total of Ambangeg. In terms of difficulty, I would give the Akiki-Tawangan a 7/9 compared to the 3/9 of Ambangeg.
What I speak of is the Akiki-Tawangan Traverse, a very scenic and challenging hike that combines the the steep, pine-forested trail of Akiki and the long, mossy-forested trail of Tawangan, and between them, the grassland summit – providing a Pulag experience that has instantly become one of my favorite Cordillera hikes!
The Akiki-Tawangan is also combinable with a Mt. Tabayoc dayhike on the third day, making this a much more exciting option than the Luzon 3-2-1, which involves visiting Mt. Timbak. Although Timbak is a nice place, in terms of trekking hours, I am convinced that an Akiki-Tawangan-Tabayoc is a more reasonable option.
The first part of the hike involves ascending to the summit via the Akiki Trail, which can be accomplished in one long day, or two relaxed ones. The advantage of pushing Akiki Trail in one day is that it makes a “weekend Pulag” possible with the help of chartered jeepneys. On the other hand, by creating a four-day itinerary, availing of passenger buses on both ends is very possible. Overall, I would suggest a 3 or 4-day hike; with an optional Tabayoc, time permitting.
The steep ascent requires an altitude gain of over 1500 meters and it is not recommended for people who will not enjoy such a demanding task for one day. Options include camping in Eddet River, or more reasonably, Marlboro Country which has a water source and is close enough to the summit to reach it early in the morning. There is nothing complicated about the Akiki Trail: It’s just ascents and pine trees all the way!
Past Marlboro Country, you will enter a mossy forest but this is not the mossy forest awaiting you in the hike. 2.5-3 hours from Marlboro, you will emerge into the grassland summit area of Pulag and within 30 minutes you will be at the summit.
From the summit, the Tawangan Trail is a very long but gradual descent through a mesmerizing mossy forest. If the Akiki is pine forest all the way, the Tawangan is mostly mossy, and this will go on for 7-9 hours on a descent. The only perceptible change is the increase in height of the trees as you descent – a natural consequence of varying climatic factors. Two-thirds into the trail, you will trek parallel to the Halong Creek, which doubles as a water source. When the descent is done, the village of Tawangan – with its friendly people and cozy and cheap lodge – is not far away.
For the peakbagger, climbing Mt. Tabayoc, Luzon’s second highest, is very appealing since it is just a 3 or 4-hour return hike. This entails an additional day, but also makes the itinerary more relaxed.
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