20/05/2024
Been a while on this mostly dormant media page I set up for myself in a flurry of aspiration years ago go! Here’s something I’m really passionate about at the moment though for anyone still on Facebook.
We’ve just been on Crete for a couple of weeks, a stunning Greek island close to Africa rich with culture, diverse in amazing topography and home to an intense bond with New Zealand that runs as deep as anything I’ve experienced.
Why?
Today marks 83 years since Crete was invaded by the German forces in Operation Mercury which would go down as one of the most unique and dramatic battles of the Second World War.
After withdrawing from mainland Greece in a hurry, there were 7700 Kiwi soldiers on the island who were about to become pivotal in thwarting Germany’s attempt to secure the island for its valuable geographical location. A tad over 40,000 allied troops in total were now stationed in Crete, mostly Australians and British forces alongside the New Zealanders.
On the morning of May 20 as the rumble of the Luftwaffe become louder, the skies started to fill with elite German parachutists and glider-borne troops, a major scale airborne military attack never seen before (or since) was underway and the rugged landscape of Crete was now a focal point of Hitler’s war on humanity.
There are some staggering eye witness accounts from soldiers and Cretans watching as this fantasy like scene unfolded above them, those with guns started shooting like it was opening weekend, bayonets fixed for successful jumpers. The Germans who were lucky enough to land alive were now embroiled in the fight of their life and many of these young men didn’t take another step.
The next few days of combat is as ruthless and exhausting as imaginable, a lot centred around Maleme Airfield in the North West which the N**i’s knew they needed to succeed in controlling the Island with an airbase. The under-resourced, staffed and logistically hamstrung allied Creforce slowly realising their fate start retreating along the coast towards Chania, counterattacking with famous bouts of bravery, often in vain, to buy more time.
Eventually as Germany’s air attack grows and reinforcements flood the island, the ghost is up, an evacuation is the only way to save tens of thousands of men.
A multiple day scamper over the mountains to the southern coastal village of Hora Sfakion is the only option. For successive nights under the cover of darkness while selfless and brave rearguard fighting buys precious seconds an evacuation arguably more improbable than Dunkirk’s great escape is undertaken.
For reference, more than 1700 British, Commonwealth and Greek soldiers were killed and 15,000 captured during the Battle for Crete. There were 671 New Zealanders among the dead, and 2180 Kiwi prisoners of war, just left behind, many of them standing on the shore as the boats glided away in front of them, exhausted, hungry, injured, broken. More than 6000 Germans were killed or wounded. The Luftwaffe lost more than 350 aircraft.
At Leithfield primary school I remember learning pieces of this staggering slice of military history, Charles Upham who won his Victoria Cross on Crete has a statue outside the Hurunui District Council building, a true local legend. I hope we still give young Kiwis a chance to embrace and learn of New Zealand’s history abroad, military or otherwise, at these formative ages. It certainly helped inspired me to further educate myself.
Today I am in awe of the bravery and sacrifice of not just the Kiwi soldiers who fought a hateful and mad regime all over the world but the people of Crete too who never took a backward step from the N**i occupation of their beautiful home. They risked their own lives to hide Kiwi and Australian soldiers and kept fighting for what they believed in, kindness, good and freedom.
Being a New Zealander on this special island has been a privilege that isn’t lost on us and the warmth we have felt has been overwhelming. I don’t think we can underestimate our footprint globally as Kiwis and I think I’ve realised experiencing new cultures is even more rewarding when there is an existing connection to embrace.
- Suda Bay War Cemetary where 1500 Allied soldiers rest.
- The Galatas square where a famous but ultimately futile Kiwi counter attack took place.
- German War Cemetery at Maleme where 4000+ N**i soldiers rest.
- Walking the Imbros Gorge to Sfakion where Charles Upham’s company handled two dozen German troops chasing the retreat.
- Dawn at Sfakion’s evacuation point memorial.
- Preveli Monastery which hid and covertly evacuated hundreds of trapped soldiers. x2
- Signing the Suda Bay Cemetery register, paying our deepest respects.
