01/05/2024
We set out to find a place to wild camp in the mountains near tolantango and when we finally arrived at a spot that we found on iOverlander, the location was blocked by large rocks, so we kept driving into the mountains until we saw a town on a ridge with a prominent church perched at its crest.
Some well hidden dirt roads led us to the church and the few houses that assembled what could possibly be called a village. We stopped at the church to inquire about camping in the area, and noone was there, so we kept driving down the ridge looking for any signs of life, but other than a few dogs in the roads, no humans were in sight.
The ridge road came to its end as it funneled into a narrow path leading to the valley of Tolantango below. It couldn’t have been a better time, as the sun was sitting just above the mountain tops, casting a golden glow. It seemed to be the perfect spot to set up camp, but out of respect for the community, we decided to give one last try at finding someone, anyone, in the village to confirm our welcome.
We tried 5 houses with no luck. All of them looked to be vacant, abandoned, or in the process of being built. Finally, at the top of the hill, we found one of the houses with a decor of flowers and plants and dogs in front. Someone had to be home!
Genevieve started with a “hola” and no reply. She asked me to honk the horn, also to no reply as the dogs barked loudly in the driveway. A moment later, she noticed a bell at the entrance to the driveway and rang it - creating a loud jingle from inside the house, still with no reply. As we started to give up, a woman came out of the house and greeted us with an enthusiastic “buenas tardes!”
Wearing a bright red shirt and yellow scarf draped over her head, Julieta was very curious about why we were there.
After explaining that we were looking for a place to camp, she told us that her son would be home soon from working in the vivero, he could help us as it was his house and land.
Julieta was eager to show us her embroidered cloth art, as she shared about her family and upbringing in the area. She had recently lost her husband, and had lost a few children as well, but still found space to joke about her uncountable number of grandchildren and great grandchildren.
She showed us around the land, starting with her newly constructed concrete bedroom and a mud lined wooden kitchen. Out back, she showed us a donkey and goat in stables overlooking a plot of land containing many plants and trees.
Soon it was time for Julieta to start making dinner, so we assisted with gathering firewood and cleaning dishes while we awaited her sons arrival.
She prepared and cleaned a bucket of corn to send through the electric grinder outside her kitchen. She buys the corn in the nearest town of Cardinal, some 30 minutes away.
Soon after the corn was processed into a paste to prepare tortillas, a red truck pulled into the driveway. It was Julieta's son, but we could sense that something was amiss. He stayed in his vehicle for a few minutes, then seemed to intentionally avoid us, the strangers in his backyard with his mom. After five more minutes, Julieta started to notice that something seemed odd also, so we headed to the front yard to introduce ourselves.
With closed body language and great hesitancy, Jeronimo finally introduced himself but was reluctant to say much.
We asked about possibly camping down the road where we originally arrived and he started to explain a process where we should have contacted the leader of the community first before entering. Then he referred us to the tourist attraction of La Gloria, about 30 minutes down the road.
It was clear to us that we weren’t welcome then, and Genevieve turned to me and said in English, “he doesn’t want to help us, so let’s get going”
Jeronimo started to explain the natural wonder of La Gloria, and soon Genevieve started to explain how we travel and showed him a link to one of our films. He seemed impressed, or more trusting of us, after watching the first 30 seconds of our film about another Mexican family, pushed pause and started to speak to us in very clear English.
From then on, it was like speaking to a completely different person. He smiled while he talked, and shared about his life in the United States, and his recently found passions for nature, plants and trees.
Jeronimo showed us around his land where he is raising thousands of baby trees - everything from avocados and peaches, to cacti and magueys. His face lit up as he explained the process of growing greenery on such an apparently barren ridge.
After the sun fell below the mountains, it began to get extremely cold and windy, and we still needed to set up camp more than 45 minutes down the road, so we went back to the kitchen to say goodbye to Julieta.
When we entered the kitchen, we found that she was not alone. Her daughter had come to visit, and moments later, 2 grandsons made their entrance. We were invited to stay for dinner, but we needed to leave to set up camp before it was completely dark. Julieta insisted that we try some of her tortillas which, for the first time, we tried with cauliflower... It was delicious! A perfect treat before hitting the road in anticipation of the adventure to come.
~ Glen