10/01/2023
Spurn Point (or Spurn Head as it is also known) is iconic and Yorkshire’s very own Land’s End.
Spurn (in Old English meaning ‘to stumble’ ‘reject’) is a narrow sand split on the point of the coast of the East Riding of Yorkshire. Like nowhere else, with its dramatic scenery made up of a mosaic of dunes, beach, saltmarsh, lagoons and open water, it has uninterrupted panoramic views. Spurn is wildlife rich and a feast for your senses.
This place is dynamic. Spurn Point is a sweeping curve, continuing the coastline, the sand having been transported by longshore drift.
Here you will discover an isolated, beautifully desolate and special peninsula. The spit-head remains on its glacial foundation and the tidal island is cut off from the mainland at High Tide.
Just imagine the stories this place has to tell, from over many centuries. In the Middle Ages Spurn Head was a port known as ‘Ravenspurn’. Earlier there had been a village close to Spurn Head called ‘Ravenser Odd’. Is it not ironic that people many centuries ago earned their living in Ravenspurn from the Sea Port and now the sea has reclaimed these very villages.
Henry of Bolingbroke landed his ship at Ravenspurn in 1399. He planned to dethrone Richard II. Edward IV was landing his ship, from having been exiled in the Netherlands in 1471, and Sir Martin de la See led a local resistance against Edward from this Point.
The power of the elements continually change the landscape. The spit-head moves 6’ 7” (2 metres) every year, in a westerly direction, as the River Humber and North Sea meet. Spurn Point forms the north bank of the mouth of the River Humber Estuary and its southern-most tip is Spurn Point. East Yorkshire has one of the fastest eroding coastlines in Britain, making Spurn unique, stunning and beautiful.
The spit stops the full force of the North Sea entering the River Humber. The landscape here is inspiring.
Spurn was referenced in the 7th century. The last permanent residents moved away long ago, when there was a storm and the wash over area ended up under water and separated the villagers from the mainland. This must have been frightening for them.
Spurn is now designated as a Site of Special Scientific Interest, a Heritage Coast, and a specially protected National Nature Reserve. Amazingly quiet beaches, flora, fauna, wildlife such as rare birds, Barn Owl, seals, deer, reptiles, including the common lizard, and many insect species including butterflies and moths can be found here.
Spurn is also a very interesting place for military buffs as there are old gun emplacements, dating back to World War I on the Point. At the time of World War I two coastal artillery 9.2 inch (230mm) batteries became additions to Spurn Head. Placed inbetween them were 4 and 4.7 inch (100 and 120 mm) guns that could quick fire. Views of huge ships, Humber forts and the Lincolnshire coast can also be afforded from the Point.
Enjoy your walk around Spurn with me:
I visited Spurn for the very first time on a wet and windy, grey Winter’s afternoon. I had to walk an uneven 7 Mile, slow, round trip, with my heavy camera gear. Visitors are warned not to visit at High Tide, or they risk getting cut off in the wash over area. It is no secret that a town was swallowed up by the sea and now lies metres down under the murky depths, covered by years of silt build up. Scientists are now trying to find this lost town.
Spurn Point had been on my bucket list, to visit, for so long, and now I was here I couldn’t wait to get to the Point. A Unimog is sometimes available to hire, for a ‘safari’, but today it was not in service. No other vehicles are allowed. No dogs are allowed, after the Big Hedge Footpath, so as to protect the wildlife on Spurn.
I knew that the 7 Mile circular walk would be difficult with my heavy bags, boots, and the driving wind and rain. Heading off over wet, muddy, glistening sand, pebbles and large weathered stones, that had been eroded by the sea, the going was extremely slow. I turned to look back and marvelled at my deep footprints in the sand.
At one stage of my journey, I was delighted to come across a silver-grey, baby seal pub, rotating its hind feet, waiting for its Mum.
Walking was hard going in places, on the lovely, clean, beach, as the sand became so deep and soft at points that I was sinking into it and having to really pull my legs upwards to remove them from the deep shafts. I imagined the Monkey with its hand stuck in the jar. My legs began to ache from sheer physical and mental exertion. My feet started to throb. My fingers were cold. My clothing was getting wet from the persistent rain and I could feel the light, cold rivulets running down my neck. I had to discipline myself to keep walking.
The old, very narrow, single track, road had been totally eroded in places. My only saviour was the daylight, as I could see my path well.
Old War Bunkers littered the route. They had collapsed and were being reclaimed by the merciless pounding of the waves and the relentless elements.
The going became so tough, that, at one stage, I almost decided to give up and turn around. This was going to be a big challenge and the finishing line seemed so far away.
Eventually, I saw Spurn Lighthouse and Low Lighthouse in the distance and I became excited. Spurn Lighthouse was erected in 1815 and in the 1870’s a chapel was built high up in the lighthouse. This is truly an iconic sight.
I knew at this point that I had under one mile to walk. I would not allow myself to stop or turn round now. Additionally, the rain had ceased, the sky was brightening up and the sun started to shine through the clouds.
There was not another person in sight and I liked this desolation. Being at one with all this beauty was one of the best moments a person could have. I soldiered on.
Upon reaching Spurn Point, I took a seat. My seat was a huge, damp, rough boulder, that was covered in barnacles. Placing my gear on the wet, sandy ground, I rested up. After having re-charged my batteries, I took this image of the Point.
After having taken my photo, the sun started to go down. To my surprise there developed the most wonderful fiery, red sky, inviting my gaze upwards. The sky looked like it had caught fire and I watched the display until it completely disappeared.
The moon was rising, and I had high hopes that it would light my way back. However, that was not the case, as a huge blanket cloak of thick clouds covered it from view, threading the sky with silver. I then realised that I would have to pick my way back, extremely carefully, over rough ground, for three and a half miles so as not to break an ankle, or worse.
I passed Spurn Lighthouse, referenced in 1427, and Low Lighthouse again. Walking through the Potato fields and Chalk Bank, I followed the path, where I was able to, and walked on the beach at points where the path was non-existent.
Highland Cattle (Heilan Coo – gentle giants of Scotland), with shaggy coats and long horns, are free to roam on Spurn. All around me I could hear their metal Cowbells ringing eerily in the wind. I could smell their scent and then past by their huge bodies, whose silhouettes I could just make out under the dim light of the obscured moon. I hoped that these cattle would not take interest in me.
The wind became menacing and whipped up into a frenzy. The masterful sea, was coming in fast. With its salty lips it hissed and lashed the pebbles on its shore. It crashed and pounded onto the beach, in a rage, seeming to play out a symphony. The wind was whipping up gritty grains of sand from the dunes, that hit my face with some force.
Dune grasses were moving wildly, back and forth, in the strong wind. Their dense, spiky tufts were piercing through my trousers, like a Child’s sword, as I stumbled along on the uneven ground.
Keeping seaward to avoid disturbing any roosting wading birds, I then awkwardly made my way past the Eelgrass protection area and Middle Camp. I found a wet, narrow wire, which felt steely cold, linking both sides of the walk (Humber Estuary with the North Sea) and used it to feel my way back, in the dark, against the unforgiving inhospitable weather. I counted the posts as I went, it was some consolation.
Thankfully, after some tricky footwork, I reached Seawatch Hide, The Warren. With some further heavy footsteps, I was finally standing at Big Hedge Footpath and I sighed a huge sigh of relief. Rain was falling more heavily now and the wind was driving it across my path.
Ahead of me I could see some lights and began trying to work out what the lights were. Was someone coming to rescue me? On getting closer, I could see working tractors. I was pleased to see human life.
One worker, upon spotting me in his headlights shouted over to me “only a few more minutes to go Mate, before you reach Borrow Pit and after that Blue Bell” and pointed me in the right direction. I thanked him so much. I cannot tell you how relieved I was to have finally reached the end of my journey in one piece.
My clothing was soaked, and I was cold, but I smiled to myself, knowing that I had crossed this image off my list of places that I had desperately wanted to see. I had captured a beautiful photograph of this truly unique place, Spurn Point.
The scenery is breathtaking at Spurn! It is fantastic here and so fascinating and I want to return again and again.
At the very moment I took this image, the sky had been bright, blue and soft. The sun had shone through cracks in the clouds, just at the right moment for me. Radiant light had soaked the sea and Point and I could taste the saline tang in the air. There had been a serenity. The dreamy sea waves had a rhythmic pulse and had gently kissed the golden beach.
