28/07/2025
Luckily, the rain had been pushed back, so we took the chance to explore Lublinâs old town. Itâs a charming place that hasnât been polished to touristready perfection. Instead, you find houses with crumbling facades and patches of fading plaster that give the area a lived-in, authentic feel. Thereâs a creative buzz in the air too, with murals, galleries and artistic touches poking out at every turn.
During our little tour of the old town, the most spectacular part awaited at the heart of the old town: the Metropolitan Cathedral of St.âŻJohn the Baptist and St.âŻJohn the Evangelist. From the outside it looks like a dignified, late Renaissance/Baroque church built between 1592 and 1617 by the Jesuits. But step inside, and youâre enveloped by an astonishing illusionistic polychrome. Walls and ceilings covered in sweeping Baroque frescoes by court painter JĂłzef Meyer, added after a fire in the mid 18th century. The effect is dramatic: vivid scenes, ornate decoration and an acoustic sacristy where whispers carry across the space. Itâs hard to describe the impact, you really have to see it.
Later, we set off on a culinary mission to find cebularz. A regional specialty from Lublin. Itâs a flat, round wheat-dough bread topped with diced onions and poppy seeds, a nod to the cityâs Jewish culinary heritage and now even protected by EU Geographical Indication. We tracked down the bakery reputed to make the best, but they were already sold out đđđ. And for us it was the best or none at all đ