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The Use and Promotion of Indigenous Nigerian Fabrics – The Role Of Fashion Designers
A Position Paper Presented By Wumi Oluwadare On 21st November, 2011 For The Presentation At The “Dress Nigeria” Workshop Organised By The Federal Ministry Of Tourism Culture And National Orientation, And Legendary Gold
The Use/Promotion Of Indigenous Nigerian
Fabrics-Role Of Fashion Designers...
Historically, Fashion has been the aspect of Culture employed to convey a Nation’s ideologies and related social values such as nationalism, class, feminism and political views. In the Colonial era, one of the major revolutionary acts of our leaders was to be dressed in our indigenous styles especially at public and international appearances. There was the era of The Indigenization Decree which gave rise to Nigerians delving into the hitherto cultic Fashion Industry. One of the major players then and founder of FADAN, Chief (Mrs.)Sade Thomas Fahm was instrumental in encouraging and promoting Made-in-Nigeria clothing with her flagship boutique at The Federal Palace Hotel. The inexhaustible array of indigenous textiles and fabrics is as wide and varied as the numerous ethnic groups across the Nation. This naturally gave rise to indigenous and traditional textiles being used not only for clothing, like several decades ago, but also for home décor, soft furnishings, gift items, fashion accessories, etc. The evolution of the Nigerian fashion industry into one full of glamour and publicity however created a conflict of sorts; that of embracing modern trends and style and upholding our culturally rich and opulent fashion values. The Fashion Designers Association of Nigeria (FADAN) was instituted 22 years ago to address this major dilemma in addition to her various other responsibilities, and this led to the greater use of Nigerian fabrics and textiles locally and internationally through Trade Missions and Fashion shows. In the last decade however, this conflict seems to be more aggravated considering the increasing number of spurious activities within the Fashion industry, thereby necessitating a Workshop such as this. We need to gently but firmly remind ourselves of who we are, and what our natural and cultural affinities are. We almost appear to be confused with undefined identities; remaining in the shadow of both the past and present identities of the developed world and their fashion. It is high time Designers and all stakeholders in the Nigerian Fashion industry started working together like never before towards promulgation of necessary Government Policies with a well-planned approach towards implementation. One of the major challenges in the Nigerian Fashion industry is the lack of resource materials for the production of local textiles and fabrics. Designers can only use the limited available materials and textiles and these restrictions in the Nigerian operating environment have been a great handicap in the full use of Indigenous fabrics. We need to build up healthy stocks of Nigerian textiles and embark on research and development of same in order to be uniquely competitive globally. The cottage industries producing the textiles across the country need to be organized and more should be set up as centers for improved practices, with capacity for larger volumes. If we must increase patronage of indigenous textiles, Designers need to have a constant supply of textiles for ready-to-wear mass-produced garments. In addition to this, specialized retail stores and boutiques will have to be established and existing ones encouraged to stock locally produced items in addition to foreign brands which already have huge global patronage. The Ministry and The National Council for Arts and Culture need to liaise with designers of high quality items to assist in creating awareness through year-round exhibitions and appropriate documentation. Regulatory Fashion Laws and Patenting of our original traditional motifs and textiles is a very crucial aspect of sustaining the Nigerian Design/Designer. Our textiles need to be analysed for composition of the fibers and dyes and this will help the designer to have correct labeling information and classification of textures. The production of our yarns and cotton should receive greater investment towards better quality and quantity for the local textile manufacturers. The current global trend is going Green and this is an advantage for the Nigerian designer because a greater percentage of our fibers are natural, making them environmental friendly. A return to the beginning brings us close to originality and though our methods of producing these textiles may be dated, improvement will make them globally acceptable because they are authentic. The Nigerian Fashion Industry is one waiting to change the face of fashion globally and this can only be achieved with collaboration between the relevant Government Agencies, the organized private sector and the Designers themselves.
