Discover India's Northeast

10/09/2025

GOLDEN PAGODA OF NAMSAI

Our visit to Namsai, the homeland of the Tai Khamti tribes in Arunachal Pradesh, was nothing short of a whirlwind. Though the trip was brief and packed, the early morning walk through the tranquil Golden Pagoda complex in Tengapani was incredibly refreshing — a moment of peace amid the rush.
An iconic landmark of Namsai, the Golden Pagoda — known locally as Kongmu Kham — is a magnificent Buddhist temple that serves as a centre for meditation and prayer. Built in the traditional Thai-Burmese architectural style, the pagoda is not only beautiful but also radiates a profound sense of spirituality and calm.
Just across from the Golden Pagoda stands the world’s tallest bamboo Buddha statue, Lubhamuni, soaring at 42.7 feet. Housed within the Vipassana Meditation premises, the statue was crafted by master artisans from Shan State, Myanmar, and is reverently known as Fra Sutongpey Lubhamuni.
Getting there was fairly straightforward. My friend and I took a one-hour flight from Guwahati to Dibrugarh, followed by a scenic two-and-a-half-hour drive through lush green fields and tea gardens straight into the heart of Namsai.



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02/09/2025

HEIKRU HIDONGBA: A FESTIVAL FOR PEACE AND PROSPERITY

September is the time of year when the paddies turn a lush green, bursting into full blossom and hinting at a bountiful harvest. Wild fruits on the hillocks mellow, shedding their bitterness, ready to be savoured. Farmers, recognizing the signs of abundance, pause to celebrate the fruits of their labour.
Among the Meiteis of Manipur, this celebration takes the form of Heikru Hidongba—literally translated as gooseberry rowing (Heikru meaning gooseberry, Hidongba meaning riding on a boat). The tradition began during the reign of King Irengba in 984 AD and is observed every year on the 11th day of the Manipuri month of Langban. This year, it falls on 3rd September.
The festival is held to invoke the blessings of the deity Ebudhou Pakhangba, with offerings that include garlands made of fresh gooseberries and rice. These are presented in a ritual before the day's main event—the exhilarating Hiyang Tanaba, or traditional boat race—held at various venues across the valley.
Following the introduction of Hinduism in Manipur, a reimagined version of Heikru Hidongba also began to be celebrated in temples. According to records from the Sri Bijoy Govindaji Temple, the festival was first performed in the temple's moat in 1779, in honour of Shri Bijoy Govindaji. Today, this version blends elements of the ancient Meitei tradition with features of Vaishnavism, such as sankirtan and aarti.

(Photos by Ronel Seram and Caesar Singh Ch.)


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26/08/2025

PANG LHABSOL: A HOMAGE TO KHANGCHENDZONGA

Pang Lhabsol is a unique Sikkimese festival that pays homage to Mount Khangchendzonga, the world’s third-highest peak and the highest mountain in India. Revered as the guardian deity of Sikkim, Khangchendzonga is honoured alongside other local deities during this vibrant celebration.
The festival also commemorates the historic Blood Brotherhood Treaty of the 15th century, a symbolic pact of peace and unity between the Lepcha and Bhutia communities—two of Sikkim’s major ethnic groups.
Counted among Sikkim’s most significant cultural festivals, Pang Lhabsol features the striking Pangtoed Chaam, a sacred masked warrior dance. Key characters include a dancer representing Khangchendzonga and another as Mahakala, the guardian of dharma.
The festival, which typically lasts for three days, takes place in various monasteries across the state, with Tsuklakhang Monastery in Gangtok serving as a primary venue. The celebrations also include traditional Sikkimese cuisine, cultural performances, and colourful carnivals, drawing locals and visitors alike.
This year, Pang Lhabsol begins on 7th September.

(Photographs by Agniswar Kansabanik)


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19/08/2025

13/08/2025

IN THE NEIGHBOURHOOD

At 6956 ft, Lepchajagat is a small, sleepy hamlet on the main road leading from Darjeeling to Mirik via the town of Sukhiapokhri. Earlier inhabited by the Lepchas, (people of eastern Nepal, western Bhutan, Sikkim, and Darjeeling) and hence the name Lepcha-jagat, with ‘jagat’ meaning world; it was subsequently taken over by the West Bengal Forest Development Corporation.

Being part of the larger reserve forest area and surrounded by pine, oak, and rhododendron forests, it holds a sizable number of leopards, the shy and elusive yellow-throated martens, barking deer, and, reportedly, some Himalayan black bears, as well as a rich birdlife. From the hilltop of this tranquil village, one can enjoy panoramic views of the majestic snow-capped Mt Kanchendzonga. The best time to visit Lepchajagat is from October to April.

Photos by Pralay Lahiry



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03/08/2025

BUTTERFLIES OF BARAMURA

Baramura Hills have some of the deepest forests and uncharted hilly regions of Tripura. Located 35 km from the capital city of Agartala, this hill range conceals immense natural treasures that reveal new surprises with every passing moment. The many streams that criss-cross the hills are an excellent site for butterfly lovers.
Hundreds of common and mottled emigrants can be seen puddling mud on the rocky banks of the rivulets. Chestnut Angel, Assam Black Prince, Spotted Jester, Common Crow, Common Nawab, Long-banded Silverline and the Yamfly are some of the frequently seen species. A handful of significant recent records include the Thai White Dragontail, Jewel Nawab, the Khashi Dark Archduke and the Sunbeam.

The whole of Baramura, indeed, is famous for its butterflies. Winter is the best season to observe them.

(Text and photographs by Dev Dipankar)



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22/07/2025

THE FALLS THAT WILL LIFT YOU
Romancing the stunning waterfalls of Meghalaya…



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11/07/2025

THE PINK CARPET !

It is on the legendary Wuya Kachui Hill in Singcha Village, Manipur, where the beautiful Wuyawon flowers bloom. The flower, commonly known as ‘Pink Orchid Ginger,’ blooms abundantly in July and lasts until the first week of August. It belongs to the Zingiberaceae family, and its botanical name is ‘Caulokaempferia secunda.’

The pale pink flower turns deep pink when it rains. One interesting feature is that it always faces east when it blooms.

Shingcha Village is 91 km from Imphal and 55 km from Ukhrul, heading towards Kamjong. To see the beautiful flower, visitors must walk 10-15 minutes from the highway to Wuya Kachui.

04/07/2025

KHARCHI PUJA: A celebration of 14 deities

One of the main festivals of Tripura, the 7-day Kharchi Puja is being celebrated (3rd-9th July) at the ‘Chouda Devata Bari’ (Bengali for temple of 14 deities) or Chaturdash Devta Temple at Khayerpur (about 7 km from Agartala).
A grand fair is held throughout the week, and various cultural programmes are organised in the evenings.
During the festival, lakhs of devotees and tourists throng the Chaturdash Devta Temple, which was the main temple of the Raja of Tripura Kingdom during the late 18th century.

(Photos by S Tamal Bhowmik)

For the record

According to the Tripura royal family’s chronicle ‘Rajmala’, the names of the 14 deities are Hara, Uma, Hari, Ma, Bani, Kumar, Ganesh, Brahma, Prithwi, Ganga, Abdi, Agni, Kamesh and Himadri. The tribal names of the 14 deities are Mataikatar, Matai Katarma, Mailooma, Kholooma, Akhtra, Bikbitra, Tuima, Sanrang, Kalaia, Garia, Nakchu Matai, Bichukma, Srijemdu and Thoumnairog.
Among the 14 head images, 13 are made of brass while one is made of silver. Except for three deities, the rest are not worshipped every day. The deities are exhibited to the devotees during the Kharchi festival only. The 14 deities are worshipped by the royal priest, Chantai. Only members of the Chantai descendants are allowed to take the post of Chantai. All the attendants of Chantai belong to the Tripuri Community.

The word Kharchi is derived from two Tripuri words ‘Khar’ or ‘Kharta’ meaning sin, ‘chi’ or ‘si’ meaning cleaning. The final meaning is cleansing of the sins of the people or the kingdom. Some say 'Kha' means Earth, and 'Archi' means burning flame. According to Rajmala, Hirabati the queen of the late king Tripur worshiped the 14 Gods and Goddesses to get a child. A child was born from her who had an eye on the forehead, his name was Trilochon.

Whatever legend says, wherever the kings of Tripura had relocated after changing the capital, they carried the 14 deities.

In the year 1760, Maharaja Krishna Chandra Manikya changed the capital to old Agartala and there the worship of the 14 deities started, which continues to date. On the day of Kharchi puja, the 14 deities are carried by members of Chantai, taken to river Saidra, bathed in the holy water and brought back to the temple. The deities are then decorated with various flowers, and vermilion is applied to the forehead of the deities.

Both Tripuri and non-Tripuri participate in the festivals. People offer a variety of fruits, sweets, and other treats. Animals are also sacrificed. People from the state and outside the state participate in the festival irrespective of caste, creed and religion. They come to pray for their welfare as well as the welfare of the society and the state in general. (Source: Tribal Research and Cultural Institute, Tribal Welfare Department, Government of Tripura)

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27/06/2025

KANG: THE RATH YATRA

The Hindu festival of Rath Yatra is celebrated in Manipur as the Kang festival. During this festival, Lord Jagannath leaves his abode at the temple and makes a circuit of the lands of his believers in a Kang (chariot), which is pulled by devotees. Getting to pull the ‘Kang’ of the Lord is considered to be a great honour, a task worthy of much respect, and thus, devotees and pilgrims vie with each other for this opportunity.

This festival is celebrated every year for nine days beginning on the second day of Ingen. This year, the festival begins today (June 27).

On the first and the last days of the festival, beautifully decorated chariots carrying the idols of the Lord Jagannath, his brother Balabhadra and sister Subhadra lead a procession through the localities of the valley in the late afternoon to give devotees a darshan of the deities. The procession is accompanied by the music of bells, gongs, drums, nahals (large cymbals) and conches. Devotees offer bartis (small sticks wrapped with cotton and soaked in ghee), flowers and fruits to the deities as the Kang makes brief halts along its way. In the evenings, devotees perform Jayadev (songs in praise of the Lord) and Khubak Isei (devotional dances and music), as well as partaking in community feasts at local mandaps.

The main Rath Yatra begins its procession from the Shree Govindajee temple. It is a custom that the Shree Govindajee temple celebrates the Kang Chingba (the pulling of the chariot) before any other local temples begin their ceremonies of the day. Women wear special dresses for the occasion: light pink coloured ‘fanek’ and white ‘chader’, while men wear a white dhoti and kurta. Some seniors also wear a white Koiyet (pagri).

(Text by Pawan Rajkumar; photos by Ronel Seram)

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19/06/2025

AMBUBACHI MELA, 22nd - 26th JUNE, 2025

Photos by Shruti Sarma



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20/05/2025

AN ENIGMA CALLED CHABIMURA…

(Photos by: Dipak Sinha, Agniswar Kansabanik, Abhranil Debbarma, Aniket Roy, Shawon Kuri, Dipankar Dev, Dipayan Chakraborty)


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