Discover India's Northeast

Discover India's Northeast The first tourism and travel magazine (launched in 2015) dedicated to the 8 states of Northeast India

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Discover India’s Northeast is a bimonthly travel/tourism magazine exclusively covering the 8 states of Northeast India. The cover price of the magazine is Rs 180 and our Annual Subscription charge is Rs 1,800 (postal & handling charges included). [valid only in India]

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WHEN IT RAINS IN MEGHALAYA! There's something about the rain. It can soothe you or bring out the angst inside you; make ...
29/06/2024

WHEN IT RAINS IN MEGHALAYA!
There's something about the rain. It can soothe you or bring out the angst inside you; make you intensely happy or bring back childhood memories with the sweet smell of wet earth; refresh you with its freshness or drown you with its intensity.
When I started planning a trip to Meghalaya, home to Mawsynram and Cherrapunjee, some of the wettest regions in the world, I naturally wondered about the type of rain I would experience. Add to that a beautiful capital city, Shillong, the ‘Scotland of the East’, and the lure of the magnificent root bridges of the Khasi tribes; and nothing could keep me away…
Text by Rupaparna Sarkar

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AMBUBACHI STARTS TODAYEvery year, lakhs of pilgrims, from Sadhus to believers from all over the country, throng the hist...
22/06/2024

AMBUBACHI STARTS TODAY
Every year, lakhs of pilgrims, from Sadhus to believers from all over the country, throng the historic Kamakhya Temple in Guwahati for the 5-day Ambubachi festival, which is considered to be one of the biggest religious gatherings in India.

This Hindu religious event is an annual celebration of feminine power, the earth's fertility and cherishing nature in general. The temple doors remain closed as Goddess Kamakhya is believed to undergo her yearly menstruation cycle during this time. This mela is also well-known as Ameti, or Ta***ic fertility festival, because of its close association with the Ta***ic Shakti cult prevalent in eastern parts of India.

Photos by Anu Boro

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IT’S A DIFFERENT WORLD OUT THEREThis is an account of a 6-day expedition conducted by Chiko Adventures from Ukhrul, Mani...
08/06/2024

IT’S A DIFFERENT WORLD OUT THERE
This is an account of a 6-day expedition conducted by Chiko Adventures from Ukhrul, Manipur. The region the expedition travelled through is the extreme Eastern Tangkhul area, on the border with Myanmar, an extremely isolated place. (For example, even today, a thriving barter system still exists between the villages on both sides of the Indo-Myanmar border.) Isolation does produce significant drawbacks. The only way to get to some parts of this region is by foot, as the motorable roads end at Phungtha. (And like in many other hilly areas, the annual monsoon leaves many roads non-existent due to landslides.) This region is also a biological hot spot in terms of diversity, and since it is so remote, it has remained essentially pristine…

Text by Yuimi Vashum
Photos by Akui Zings and Kahorpam Horam

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ASSAM THROUGH THE EYES OF AN AUSTRALIAN BUARIIn Queen Elizabeth National Park, Uganda, surrounded by elephants and croco...
29/05/2024

ASSAM THROUGH THE EYES OF AN AUSTRALIAN BUARI
In Queen Elizabeth National Park, Uganda, surrounded by elephants and crocodiles, I met an Assamese man—a man so laid back that I finally asked permission to kiss him. The year was 2008. And now, in 2024, we have been happily married for thirteen years. His name is Digonta, meaning 'horizon'…
Since joining an Assamese family, I have been back many times. And I always enjoy the region's ready hospitality and beauty each time, whatever the season. Even though the heat and humidity can sometimes feel unbearable in the summer, the verdant green of the paddy fields sparkles and the tea plantations shine. And in winter, when an evening chill fills the air, the patchwork fields become fallow grazing grounds, and the tea bushes are pruned back to bony skeletons, great clumps of bamboo still rise into the air, gracefully arching over laneways and houses…
For me, Mother India was love at first sight, but I never expected to marry into her family! That said, falling for a man from the North East and his unique heritage every day feels like the most natural and wonderful blessing.

Text and photographs by Susie Colles

To read the full story, subscribe to our print copies, or check out our Jan-Apr 2024 issue on:
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27/05/2024

We will be there !!

THE AHOM CAVE OF LONGLENG     Assam's history is replete with fascinating stories of kingship, loyalty, sacrifice, and r...
23/05/2024

THE AHOM CAVE OF LONGLENG
Assam's history is replete with fascinating stories of kingship, loyalty, sacrifice, and rivalry. These legendary events took place during the reign of the Ahom dynasty for nearly 600 years, from 1228 to 1826. Towards the later part of the 1600s, Garhgaon, the capital of the Ahom Kingdom, was in deep internal conflict. A spate of rivalry between royal nobles led to the killing of the king, and rival kings became de-facto rulers. During this time, Gobar Raja, who was king for just 20 days, was also killed, and his son Gadapani fled from Assam and remained in exile in places as far as Nagaland.
Gadapani returned to Assam after two years in exile, became the twenty-ninth king of the Ahom Kingdom, and became known as Swargadeo Gadadhar Singha. He reigned from 1681 to 1696.
Among the many places in Nagaland where the Ahom ruler might have stayed while in exile is the Ahom Cave, tucked away in a remote corner of Longleng, a hilly district and home to the Phom Nagas.

Text and photographs by Hemonta Borah

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AN ENIGMA CALLED CHABIMURAIt was late afternoon when we drove through the rural fringes of Amarpur. The cobbled roads th...
16/05/2024

AN ENIGMA CALLED CHABIMURA
It was late afternoon when we drove through the rural fringes of Amarpur. The cobbled roads through the village would take us to our next destination, an archaeological site in Tripura called Chabimura. We drove through Amarpur in Gomati district to reach the hill range. Ten kilometres and thirty minutes later, we finally reached Chabimura. A large open space with a few huts welcomed us. We could see the Gomati River at a distance.
We parked our car and rushed towards the riverside to look for a boat as we had to do the rest of the exploration on a boat. Chabimura is a rare combination of history, art, and natural beauty. “Chabimura” means “mountain of pictures”. On the banks of the Gomati River, the Devtamura ranges stand, densely forested, with panels of Hindu deities carved on rocky mountain faces. The most famous is the panel of Devi Chakrama (the local name for Goddess Durga), a colossal 13-metre-high image of the Goddess.

Text By Amrita Sen

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THE SANCTUARYA phone call, a couple of years since the last one, to long-time friend Sougata, who runs Wander Trails, en...
12/05/2024

THE SANCTUARY
A phone call, a couple of years since the last one, to long-time friend Sougata, who runs Wander Trails, ended up in a meeting at Maibong Eco Resort bordering Pobitora Wildlife Sanctuary. And what an outing it turned out to be!
It was wonderful catching up with my friend and getting to know Nripen and his brother Homen, who own the resort, but much more than that was the lasting impression of the area’s quiet, quaint, and serene environment.
The mandatory jeep safari through the sanctuary’s forest and grassland presented an amazing sight: the pachyderms loitering, grazing, or simply standing and munching lazily. You can’t miss these heavies; they were everywhere. For the record, Pobitora boasts of having the highest concentration of one-horned rhinos on the planet.
We took short trips to popular spots to watch the beautiful drama in the sky as the sun went down, and drove down to the banks of the Brahmaputra and surveyed the expanse for a lucky sight of river dolphins. And yes, a lovely drive along a route flanked by green and golden paddy fields that spread to the horizon through localities with diverse communities and stretches where goats and kids exercised equal rights to the roadway. Finally, ending with a darshan at the Ganeshji Temple by the Kolong River in Boha.
Life at the resort is about birds, fresh air, great food, and meditative calmness. One can sit for hours in the dining area, which opens to a pond with bamboo and a variety of trees all around. On the two mornings that we had breakfast in this eco resort, we were entertained by a little cormorant whose only routine was to swim and dive for fish and then get onto a perch, spread its wings to dry, and then back into the water. Equally fastidious in its routine was a pair of white-throated kingfishers that flew in and out of a cavity in the dining hall’s wall, feeding their hungry chicks. So were the white-breasted waterhen couple, with two little ones in tow, scouring the pond’s shoreline for food.
And there were the black-hooded oriole, yellow-footed green pigeon, emerald dove, pied hornbill, lineated barbets, the stork-billed kingfisher, the pond heron, the starlings, and fork-tailed drongos doing the rounds of this peaceful space.
An early morning stroll along the embankment that demarcates the sanctuary’s boundary reminded me of how beautiful and healing Mother Nature is. The floodplains of the Brahmaputra were lush green with paddy, corn, and vegetables, and the water bodies were alive with flocks of storks, whistling ducks, and more.
Out there, you don’t hear the engines roar, only bird songs. There isn’t a crowd; there is no rush.
Visiting Pobitora and its surroundings is not just about the gentle giants but also about experiencing the soothing touch of Nature and the people living in harmony with it.

(Text by Kishore Seram | Photos by Shruti Sarma)

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INTO THE LAST FRONTIERBalpakram National Park in Garo Hills, Meghalaya, offers a day-long trekking adventure. The Garo p...
30/04/2024

INTO THE LAST FRONTIER
Balpakram National Park in Garo Hills, Meghalaya, offers a day-long trekking adventure. The Garo people believe it houses the spirits of their ancestors. For nature lovers, there’s an abundance of birdlife, butterflies, flowers, and diverse flora and fauna to discover. Canyoneering is another activity that’s become popular in the Garo Hills. The hilly rivers pass through deep gorges and are ideal for adventure activities. Wari Chora is one such point near Emangre village.

Another appealing aspect of Garo Hills is its fisheries. These are not typical ponds, as they use the turquoise water of the hilly streams to fill them. Garo Hills also has its share of epic caves, and we decided to visit one called Siju Cave. It is an immense limestone cave on the banks of the Simsang River. It’s around 4 km long, and I knew it might not be all accessible. The cave was partially filled with water, and we had to remove our shoes before gingerly walking into the dark void. Initially, we saw little apart from stalagmites and stalactites. After traversing nearly a kilometre, we arrived at a scene straight out of a gothic dream. It was a huge bat colony with thousands of bats circling over our heads.

Text and Photos By Jitaditya Narzary

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22/04/2024

EXTREME DEVOTIONCharak is one of the most important folk festivals of the Hindus, especially amongst Bengali-speaking Lo...
06/04/2024

EXTREME DEVOTION
Charak is one of the most important folk festivals of the Hindus, especially amongst Bengali-speaking Lord Shiva devotees in Bangladesh, West Bengal, Tripura, and some parts of the Brahmaputra and Barak valleys in Assam. In some places, elaborate fairs are organised during the festival, also known as the Gajan festival or Neel Puja (a celebration of Lord Shiva, who is ‘Neel’, or blue).

Puja organisers travel around villages and towns for a whole month with a group of devotees dressed as Shiva, Gauri, Kaali, Asur, lion and many other gods and goddesses. They sing and dance to the songs of Lord Shiva, collect puja paraphernalia from households, and use the offerings to organise the festival. The enactment of the marriage ceremony of Lord Shiva and Gauri and the ritual of physical torture are the most important features of Charak festival these days. (The accompanying photographs were taken at the Charak festival held 3 km away from Silchar, Assam).

This year Charak Puja will be held on the 13th of April.

Text and Photos by Dibyendu Das

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THE HEADHUNTER'S TATTOOThe tradition of making tattoos all over the body was a distinct emblem of identity across most t...
30/03/2024

THE HEADHUNTER'S TATTOO
The tradition of making tattoos all over the body was a distinct emblem of identity across most tribes. The villages of Mon district of Nagaland, in particular, would have been a blip on the tourist map had it not been for the face tattoos of Konyak headhunters who took human heads as trophies during village raids.

The patterns worn by, say, a Konyak man were not something he fancied. He got the motif as a societal norm, and he qualified for it. Each tattoo pattern is predetermined and has not changed over the years. Tattoos are like language. The art itself is the script of the life of the olden days.

In some Konyak villages, a girl got a tattoo in her puberty. When she was engaged, she got another tattoo; when she had a child, a tattoo identified her as a complete woman. A man would get his first tattoo when he was initiated for a headhunting raid. But again, the eligibility of getting a tattoo changed from village to village. In some Konyak villages, a man could not get a face tattoo if he had not taken a human head. Taking a head was their rite of passage to a girl's hand in marriage, and the younger lot would be impatient for the grooming process and the tattoo, which would be the symbol of an eligible bachelor in those days.

Text: As told by Mo Naga
Photos by Mo Naga

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THE UNCOMMON SALTSalt is not just a white substance that adds flavour to food for the Meiteis of Manipur. Part and parce...
12/03/2024

THE UNCOMMON SALT
Salt is not just a white substance that adds flavour to food for the Meiteis of Manipur. Part and parcel of every important rite and ritual, salt has a sacred and profound place in Meitei culture. Interestingly, no packaged common salt is used in the rituals; only the traditional handmade salt, Thumpak (‘thum’ means salt, and ‘pak’ is a short form of ‘mapak’, which means salt slab). According to ‘Puwari Gi Wareng’, a collection of write-ups on different historical perspectives of Manipur authored by Naoroibam Indramani and Dr Haorongbam Rajmani, there are around 450 saline springs in the state. Still, only 63 are fit for human consumption.

Today, only the salt spring at Ningel village remains the major salt-producing or traditional salt-making area. Other places have stopped mass-producing salt mainly because the process is labour-intensive and the returns are insufficient to meet ends. Also, the spring is not in good condition anymore in some cases. People opting for readily available and cheaper packaged common salt for daily usage is another major factor affecting traditional salt making.

Text by Jenita Khumukcham, Photos by Ronel Seram

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NO SMALL WONDERAssam, India's second-largest northeastern state, has seven national parks and as many as 17 wildlife san...
03/03/2024

NO SMALL WONDER
Assam, India's second-largest northeastern state, has seven national parks and as many as 17 wildlife sanctuaries. Geographically, Assam is bestowed with three of the six physiographic divisions of India – the Northern Himalayas---Eastern Hills, the Northern Plains---the plains of Brahmaputra, and the Deccan Plateau---Karbi Anglong; reflections of which can be seen in not just its landscape but an unparalleled flora and fauna. As per Assam government records, the state is home to over 180 species of mammals, including rare and endangered species like the great Indian one-horned rhinoceros, the royal Bengal tiger, the golden langur and hoolock gibbon, and a spectacular range of avifauna. Assam's most famous parks are Kaziranga and Manas. Both were conferred World Heritage Status in 1985.

Photos by Pralay Lahiry

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HIDDEN BEAUTY OF SOUTHERN ASSAM"To me, Chatla Haor is one of the best places in southern Assam for photographers and tou...
25/02/2024

HIDDEN BEAUTY OF SOUTHERN ASSAM
"To me, Chatla Haor is one of the best places in southern Assam for photographers and tourists. In fact, this is the birthplace of many photographers (including myself). I am very attached to the place and have had a long-standing desire to tell others about it.
Chatla is a seasonal wetland, around 16 km north of the second largest city in Assam, Silchar. It takes hardly 20 minutes to get there from Silchar. The Ghagra River, a tributary of the Barak River, overflows onto this wetland during the rainy season. When inundated, Chatla has a maximum depth of 10 metres and is spread over 1,800 hectares. The uniqueness of Chatla is that it is used as farmland during the winter, but between March and April, it gets swamped with water and becomes a huge lake. This place is famous for its fisheries; it is one of the main suppliers of local fish to Silchar and supports more than 1,500 fisheries.”

Text & photos by Dibyendu Das

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ANGLING AT SIMANGMy friends and I were once at an angling festival on the Simang River (which is a tributary of the migh...
16/02/2024

ANGLING AT SIMANG
My friends and I were once at an angling festival on the Simang River (which is a tributary of the mighty Siang River) at Boleng in Arunachal Pradesh. The location was just amazing---it was right next to the confluence of the Simang River. We drove upstream through a thick forest for about 20 km to reach a village along with Nader, our local fishing guide and one of the best in that area. Here, we procured the fishing permits for a nominal fee of Rs. 100 per rod and walked down to the river through a narrow trail and finally reached the angling spot. Nader took us to a bamboo suspension bridge to get an overall view of the river and pointed out a spot on the river below where we could see more than 100 Chocolate and Golden mahseers.
We spent almost the entire day casting, but we could not land a single mahseer. Post lunch, we headed farther upstream. But by the time we reached the spot, it was already dark. We had to switch on our headlamps and flashlights to navigate through the thick rainforest and finally reach the river pool. We waited in silence while Nader tried his luck. After more than an hour of casting, Nader caught a beautiful Golden mahseer. He had to scamper downstream over boulders to land the fish. After a photo session and a goodbye kiss, the beautiful creature was released to where it belonged, the Simang River.

Text by Manishankar Ghosh

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BEAUTIFUL LINGUISTIC HERITAGE I had the wonderful opportunity of staying in Aizawl, the capital city, for close to three...
30/01/2024

BEAUTIFUL LINGUISTIC HERITAGE
I had the wonderful opportunity of staying in Aizawl, the capital city, for close to three months. Spending time here and enjoying the hospitality of the Mizos was a remarkable experience. Blessed with a vibrant culture, rich folklore, and a beautiful linguistic heritage, the Mizo people are hardworking and have an extremely trusting and loving attitude.

If you stay open to the charms of the language, you could even pick up a few simple words. To start with, ‘Chhibai’—a universal, friendly greeting—will earn you a smile and a wave anywhere in Mizoram. If you want to thank the sweet ladies selling fruit and vegetables, the word would be ‘Ka lawm me’. ‘Tui’ means water, and ‘Puk’, cave. If someone addresses you as Kapu or Kapi, rest assured that you’ve earned their respect— ‘Kapu’ means ‘Sir’ and Kapi would roughly translate as ‘Madam’. If someone asks you, ‘Dam maw’? which means ‘How are you?’, you could reply with ‘Dam me’, meaning ‘I’m fine’.

Text and photos By Anasuya Prasad

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BIRDING ALONG THE OLD SILK ROUTEA group of six friends, including myself, had travelled to East Sikkim in the first week...
17/01/2024

BIRDING ALONG THE OLD SILK ROUTE
A group of six friends, including myself, had travelled to East Sikkim in the first week of October to see the beauty and wildlife of Pangolakha Wildlife Sanctuary. The hilly terrain from Rongli to the upper hills of Nathang Valley and Memencho Lake falls within the Pangolakha Wildlife Sanctuary and is part of the Old Silk Route, which once carried goods from and to Tibet. Entering via Rongli, we drove through Padamchen and finally checked into a homestay in Zuluk, which lies at approximately 10,000 feet.

During the trip, we got to see one of Mother Nature’s most beautiful creations --- the elusive Himalayan monal, Blood pheasants, Plumbeous water redstart, Blue-fronted redstart, Tickell’s leaf warbler, Common stonechat, Siberian stonechat, Black-faced Laughingthrush and many other species of birds and butterflies as well. We also saw a Himalayan brown goral and a Himalayan musk deer, listed as ‘Endangered’ in the IUCN Red status.
The best season to visit the place is September to November and March to May.

Text and photographs by Subhayan Ghosh

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HOME OF THE CHAKESANG NAGASAn hour’s drive from Pfutsero, the coldest town in Nagaland, is the village of Phusachodu, ho...
09/01/2024

HOME OF THE CHAKESANG NAGAS
An hour’s drive from Pfutsero, the coldest town in Nagaland, is the village of Phusachodu, home of the Chakesang Nagas.
There was a vibe to the village that I couldn't make sense of at that moment, but it was something warm and welcoming. Kids ran along with us, people smiled and waved, and the curious gazed from their windows. It was as if the entire village was pleased to see us.
The homes were arranged in clusters around a common courtyard, where kids played, men and women hung out and chatted, older kids did their homework, and animals had their pens. It was also a space to dry the paddy from the fields, sacks of which were stored in a separate room in each house. Life here is extremely self-sufficient, with most families sometimes growing several varieties of rice and vegetables.
Life here wasn't very different from the time of Grandfather Rohu, which revolved around family, the fields, festivals, cattle and harvest time. The only major difference was that now everyone went to work in Western-style clothing and spoke English.

Text by Ambika Vishwanath
Photos By Hoshner Reporter

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For digital copy: https://www.magzter.com/IN/OUTDOORPEOPLE-TOURISM-PROMOTION-PVT-LTD--OPC-/Discover-Indias-Northeast/Travel/?redirect=true&fbclid=IwAR3umLcY5oybCsA0j2tpNSxfy0gylOj8ekBmZDQ6WhW6p0vnlBX3WmrwRMk

NAMDAPHA RAINFOREST TREK,A one-of-a-kind adventurous 10-day trek through the virgin rainforest of Namdapha National Park...
29/12/2023

NAMDAPHA RAINFOREST TREK,
A one-of-a-kind adventurous 10-day trek through the virgin rainforest of Namdapha National Park, Arunachal Pradesh.
A biodiversity hotspot in Arunachal’s Changlang district, this remote park (covering an area of approximately 2,000 square kilometres) harbours within it a varied terrain and an amazing variety of flora and fauna. Namdapha was declared a tiger reserve in 1983.

Tips from Trekkers:

*Be open to different cultures and experiences

*Expect the unexpected

*Carry leech guards if you’re going to a rainforest!

*You are more resilient than you give yourself credit for

*Visit the Northeast of India – it will amaze you!

*Best time for the Namdapha trek: November to February.

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MISTY MORNINGWhen Meghalaya, the 'Abode of The Clouds', dons its winter cloak...Photos by Lumlung Kamei
13/12/2023

MISTY MORNING
When Meghalaya, the 'Abode of The Clouds', dons its winter cloak...

Photos by Lumlung Kamei

26/11/2023

THE WHISTLING VILLAGE
Recently, I visited Kongthong village, popularly known as the “Whistling Village of Meghalaya”. We had showcased this small, remote, quaint Khasi village, 65 km from Shillong, in our Discover India's Northeast issue dated January-February 2016; and ever since then, I had in mind to experience it myself.
I am told much has changed with the commissioning of a motorable road in 2017, and mobile phones, but luckily Kongthong’s unique tradition is still surviving, though diminishing.
Meet Kong Shidiap Khongsit, an inhabitant in her sixties born in this remote and sleepy village up in the mountains when it had only trekking trails connecting it to the outside world.
She tells me (as translated by our guide) that in the steep and rugged mountain terrain with its thick foliage, singing songs uniquely associated with each individual worked as a very effective way of calling them. The high-pitched song names can travel as far as 2 km.
Unique to Kongthong village, this practice of assigning a ‘song name’ starts when a child is born. The beauty of the custom is that the ‘jingrwai lawbei’ or lullaby in Khasi, that a mother sings to a baby, becomes the name with which the child is addressed in the family. Pouring her love for the newborn, a mother sings a lullaby which is different from the others and this song (which has 2 versions, shorter and longer) becomes the name of the child. When the child grows up, besides the song name, he/she also gets a normal name.
The people of the village depend on harvesting and sale of broomsticks and betel nuts as their main source of livelihood. With the advent of tourism in the village some years back, other modes of earning have also slowly made their way into the lives of the 700 individuals settled here.
Kong Shidiap Khongsit also tells me that the younger lot no longer uses the song names to call each other. It’s a familiar story of modernization & dying traditions we encounter all over the world. Taking note of the concerns for its conservation, the Government of India is also trying to obtain the UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage status for the village.

Texts and photos by Kishore Seram

For digital copies: https://www.magzter.com/IN/OUTDOORPEOPLE-TOURISM-PROMOTION-PVT-LTD--OPC-/Discover-Indias-Northeast/Travel/?fbclid=IwAR038bOmXQ8OegEebjDORRDyTww1kVd5yzwnNdMgq9nNuykkxTaxT0TAgaE

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