28/02/2022
Vegan vs vegetarian in UK restaurants featured in The Telegraph.
How veganism killed the vegetarian
https://www.telegraph.co.uk/food-and-drink/features/veganism-killed-vegetarian/
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Vegan cheez, tofu scramble, cauliflower steak or chickpea curry: meat-free cho-ices have never been so great. I’m quite envious of the modern ‘plant-based’ posse: when I gave up meat for a decade back in the ’80s, I was lucky to be offered a baked potato with congealed cheese.
But it’s not all rosy: if you are an old-fashioned veggie, who prefers to get their protein from eggs and cheese rather than ‘plant-based meat and dairy alternatives’, it can feel like the vegetarian option has been pushed off the menu. If you don’t want meat, it’s go vegan or go home.
In restaurants, those great vegetarian dishes – a buttery risotto, macaroni cheese pimped with truffles or, the pinnacle of restaurant showmanship, a quivering, rush-it-to-the-table soufflé – are losing out, as vegan dishes are deemed to ‘do’ for vegetarians too. Our local Côte brasserie has three vegan main courses but none solely vegetarian.
The same is true in the supermarkets. A quick search of Asda’s website promises 199 vegetarian ready meals – impressive until, on closer examination, most of them are vegan. Squeaky Bean Marinated Chicken Style Pieces BBQ, anyone?
Veganism is certainly big business. Last December alone at least 682 new vegan products were launched in the UK, including vegan versions of Babybel and Philadelphia cream cheese. Just about every fast-food chain out there jumped on the trend too, with new vegan offerings at McDonald’s, Burger King, KFC, Domino’s and Nando’s. Starbucks also dropping its surcharge on plant milks permanently is the cherry on the egg-free, butter-less cake as far as the vegan movement is concerned.
A quick search of many supermarket websites reveals that most of the vegetarian ready meals are actually vegan
So is vegetarianism on the way out? According to Alex Bourke, author of Vegan London, ‘Vegan has indeed effectively taken over from vegetarian.’ Excluding Indian cuisine (which has a long tradition of being vegetarian but not vegan), almost 90 per cent of all new vegetarian restaurant, café and market-stall openings are now in fact vegan, he says. Vegetarian restaurant chain Mildreds has gone vegan, and it’s not alone.
Increasingly, the view from meat eaters and vegans alike seems to be that regular vegetarians should be happy to settle for vegan. There’s even a new collective term: veg*n. Pronounced, presumably, much like ‘vegan’: yet another example of vegetarians being squeezed out.
A recent survey by Oatly, the vegan milk producer, found that a third of us are fed up with dietary labels and one in 10 feel judged for labelling their diet in a particular way. Oatly’s latest puppet-based ads portray a bottle of cow’s milk as a thug being gently patronised by a pair of oat-milk cartons. Nothing judgmental or divisive about that!
Being stuck with the vegan option can feel especially galling for vegetarians, when there are twice as many as vegans. It could be that restaurants are overplaying the vegan card in an attempt to look cool. Jack Croft, head chef at Mayfair’s Fallow, a sustainably focused restaurant with a 50 per cent vegetarian menu, says, ‘We expected to have lots, but in fact only about five per cent of our guests are vegans, and we adapt the vegetarian dishes for them.’
Neil Campbell, head chef at Ottolenghi restaurant Rovi, takes the same route, with several adaptable vegetarian and vegan dishes alongside the meat. But, he points out, ‘Cooking vegetables takes more time and skill to deliver a flavour.’ For chefs without the time or staff to work on several dishes, a one-size-fits-all approach will be tempting.
So, vegetarians, hold your middle ground. As Croft says, ‘I don’t see why the vegetarians shouldn’t be allowed cheese just because the vegans can’t.’ And it won’t be congealed on a baked potato.
Vegetarianism vs veganism
Burger king
While the plant-based Whopper (right) is vegan, it is cooked on the same grill as meat products; the Vegan Royale (left) is cooked separately
Wagamama
Most of its vegetarian main dishes are also vegan – apart from noodle dishes featuring egg.
Pizza Express
Here’s where veggies win out, with 15 pudding choices versus just two vegan sorbets.
Now that the vegan diet is more popular than ever, old-fashioned vegetarian options could be pushed off menu