Climbers' Club Guidebooks

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Climbers' Club Guidebooks Non-profit publisher of rock climbing guides to Wales, Southern and South-West England owned by the 'Climbers' Club'.

Part of the 'Wired Guides' co-operative of UK definitive guidebook publishers.

FREE DOWNLOADShttps://climbers-club.co.uk/downloadsLUNDY: Back of the Devils Slide. A free download for the back of the ...
05/08/2024

FREE DOWNLOADS

https://climbers-club.co.uk/downloads

LUNDY: Back of the Devils Slide. A free download for the back of the Devils Slide, is avaliable on the Climbers' Club web site. Includes a new photo-topo.

TRYFAN: South Gully Area. Mini-guide to the new routes, yes new routes, on Tryfan's South Gully Area. Includes a corrected photo-diagram of the South Buttress (P122 Ogwen guide)

LLANBERIS: Dinas Mot photo-topo correction and new routes on the Nose area.

Below: 'Performance E1 'Back of the Slide' Area. Photo Simon Cardy

LUNDY: NEW RESTRICTIONS FOR 2024 SEASONThe Lundy warden has announced new climbing restrictions for the rest of 2024.htt...
26/07/2024

LUNDY: NEW RESTRICTIONS FOR 2024 SEASON

The Lundy warden has announced new climbing restrictions for the rest of 2024.

https://www.landmarktrust.org.uk/lundyisland/discovering-lundy/activities/climbing/

Restrictions are now in place for on the whole of the West Coast until the 15 August with one exception; ‘The Devil’s Slide’ and the 'Back of the Slide’. This is unpresedented compared with previous years. For anyone visiting after the 15 August it does get a lot better (everything from the Limekiln up to Needle Rock is fine) but restrictions remain on certain cliffs (e.g. Jenny’s Cove: Devil’s Chimney, Deep Dawn, and Immaculate Slabs) until the 15th September.

Frustratingly, there has been no explanation for the decision and we can only speculate as to the rationale such as late breeding season due to the very cold spring or a measure taken due the rapid rise of pathogenic avian influenza (Bird Flu) in the last 2-3 years.

BIRD OBSERVATORY STATUS
Lundy has recently regained its status as a Bird Observatory. Puffins are now breeding again having been close to being wiped out, there has been a rapid rise in Manx Shearwater in the last few seasons and Storm Petrels are breeding for the first time ever. On the other hand Kittiwakes have not been doing so well this year and Fulmars are hanging around much later than usual, indicating there may well be very local and fluctuating issues of time behind the decision.

Climbers are not in a strong position to complain given the sensitivity of the seabird population and the lack of information. The vast majority of climbers adhere to the restrictions and want the seabird population to be sucessful.

The issue was raised at the July BMC South-West area meeting and the case made an evidence based approach to any discussions with the Island.

CONSTANT REVIEW
In the meantime the Climbers’ Club strongly recommends that Climbers should take up the warden's statement that this is under 'constant review’. One climber, who is booked on in the first two weeks of August rang the Warden Joe Porter and was ‘optimistic’ that some area might be lifted before the 15th.

A new photo-topo (below) from the forthcoming new guide to the ‘Back of the Slide’ and ‘Fluted Face’ should be on the CC website shortly as a free download.

UPDATE 5 August (source: N. Howarth UKC)

Restrictions lifted from Flying Buttress

Landing Craft Bay (but not St Patrick's)

Beaufort Buttress

Devils Slide up to the Fortress (Incudes the Diamond)

SUMMER SALE - Climbers Club Guidebooks discounts - From £10Three of our guides, 'Lower Wye Valley', 'Lundy' and the sele...
10/07/2024

SUMMER SALE - Climbers Club Guidebooks discounts - From £10

Three of our guides, 'Lower Wye Valley', 'Lundy' and the selected routes guidebook 'Pembroke Rock', have recently gone out of print. While some shops may have one or two in stock and new editions are in preparation there will be an information gap. To address this we are discounting the prices of other relevant titles covering the same areas; please note that the discounted prices only apply to sales through the Climbers’ Club shop website
https://climbers-club.co.uk/eshop/?post_type=product

Lower Wye Valley

South West Climbs Volume 1 has a selection of the best routes in the Lower Wye Valley (Wintour’s Leap, Shorn Cliff, Wynd Cliff, Ban-y-Gor) and is now available for only £12.50. For those who don’t mind looking at a small screen there will also be free download version of Lower Wye Valley plus the supplements on the new CC website which we expect to launch at the start of August. The web address will be unchanged.

Pembroke Rock

Pembroke Rock covers a selection of the best of Pembroke and while it isn’t available the full 5 volume set of definitive guides is available for the same price, £35, incredible value. Individual volumes are available for only £10 each.

Lundy

South West Climbs Volume 2 has all the details for the very best routes on Lundy and is now available for only £12.50. There is a website download of new routes climbed between 2008 and 2018.

South West Climbs Volumes 1 & 2

Below - Emma Alsford on High Life (E2) Range East, Pembroke. Photo Carl Ryan

NEW GUIDE - PEN LLYNLong regarded as the exclusive playground of the climbing elite, Pat Littlejohn and Mick Lovatt reve...
24/05/2024

NEW GUIDE - PEN LLYN

Long regarded as the exclusive playground of the climbing elite, Pat Littlejohn and Mick Lovatt reveal the Llyn Peninsula as a destination for any adventurous climber eager to discover a largely unknown part of North Wales.
With nearly 700 routes, Pen Llyn offers unmatched variety: from granite outcrops and towering sea cliffs of northern Llyn to the awesome walls of Cilan Head and Craig Dorys; from the suntrap zawns of Trwyn Maen Melyn to the amenable quarries of Ty'n Tywyn.
With a wealth of both new trad and sport climbs, there is something here for everyone. Stunning photography, detailed approach maps, accurate topos and comprehensive route descriptions make this an easy-to-use guidebook, and promise climbing on Pen Llyn to be an accessible and unmissable experience...Great for avoiding the crowds this bank holiday.

Now out and on sale from the CC guidebook online store
https://climbers-club.co.uk/eshop/?product=pen-llyn
There really is a big range of climbs for all - with 2/3 of the climbs being single pitch and 1/6 being VS or below. From mountain/hilltop granite to seaside fun buy this book and enjoy a unique peninsula.

Expected to be on sale by the end of next week. Taking pre-orders
04/05/2024

Expected to be on sale by the end of next week. Taking pre-orders

17/06/2023
OGWEN: TRYFAN, SOUTH GULLY WALLNow that the summer is here, time for some of these (newish) routes on Tryfan's South Gul...
22/05/2023

OGWEN: TRYFAN, SOUTH GULLY WALL

Now that the summer is here, time for some of these (newish) routes on Tryfan's South Gully Wall for some repeats?

Schwein Würst . 50m E4 6a
Scramble up the first few metres of Munich Climb to where it turns left up the slab. Continue straight on for a further 3m to a sloping grass ledge with two large slanting grooves on the right.
1 25m 5c Climb the left-hand groove for 8m. Move left at half height to a poor foot ledge then make a bold move up and left across the steep wall into a short mossy groove. Continue to belay on a large flat ledge below the overhanging corner.
2 25m 6a Climb the corner to the capping overhang, then escape right into Munich Climb.
Pete Johnson & Derek Ryden (AL) 20/7/2018

Don’t Mention the War 85m E1 5b
Approached by scrambling up South Gully as if heading for Munich Climb, this steep looking wall gives delightful climbing on positive holds. The quality of the rock is excellent, whilst gear is more plentiful & better than appearances might suggest. Micro-wires & cams of all sizes will be useful.
Start 4m up & right of the start of Munich Climb at a small ledge below an overlap at the bottom of the slabby wall.
1 28m 5a Step left around the overlap & climb boldly up, trending gently right, on positive holds to a discontinuous horizontal crack & gear. Continue gently rightwards up the central depression, passing a series of discontinuous vertical cracks which lead to the belay ledge with the perched block common to South Gully Wall. Super climbing.
2. 2m 5b Make a hard move off the perched block to reach a good crack. Continue up steeply but on good holds to a small grassy ledge. The wavy wall above leads to the arete but move right to a crack which is followed to a huge ledge.
3 25m 5b Above you should be 3 short, steep, bands of rock, the skyline of which is Summit Wall with a prominent fin/nose and a U-shaped groove to its right: this is where you’re headed. Make steep moves up the first wall on good holds to a ledge. The second wall is also steep but similarly endowed. Bridge awkwardly up to the roof & an obvious crack. Pull over this to finish between the fin & the arete.
Derek Ryden & Geoff Bennett (AL) 14/7/2018

Appeasement 35m HVS 5a
Start just above the huge block/rib that lies in the middle of South Gully, at a super horizontal cam/hex slot, just to the right of a white streak on the slab. The climb follows a series of grooves heading for the crack right of the obvious off-width above (South Gully Wall).
35m 5a Awkward & bold moves gain the slab & a good crack on the right. Follow a series of grooves to the finger crack, following this & a further series of grooves to emerge on the huge ledge. Belay on a stupendously large block.
Geoff Bennett & Derek Ryden 14/7/2018

……Or the Olympics! 26m HVS 4c
1. Start at a poor abseil station (the middle of 3) around a huge block lying against the wall, 7m above the previous route. This route follows the series of grooves above.
26m 4c Climb up leftwards into the groove system & follow it up & gently rightwards to a huge detached block. Pass this on its left side & follow more grooves until a junction with Appeasement which leads to the huge ledge & block.
Derek Ryden & Geoff Bennett 4/7/2018

A short up-date that you can print off with there routes is available on the CC web site here:
https://www.climbers-club.co.uk/cms/wp-content/uploads/2023/04/Tryfan-update-V5.pdf

Thanks to Pete Johnson and Geoff Bennett for their help with this topo.

OGWEN: TRYFAN EAST FACE, SOUTH BUTRESS.Long overdue correction needed to the photodiagram, South Buttress on page 122. T...
22/04/2023

OGWEN: TRYFAN EAST FACE, SOUTH BUTRESS.
Long overdue correction needed to the photodiagram, South Buttress on page 122. The first pitches of; Apex Route, Crackerjack and Gashed Crag are shown in the current guide as starting below not on Heather Terrace. This photo-topo shows a corrected version with the correct starts and can be downloaded from the Climbers Club website here: https://www.climbers-club.co.uk/guidebook-downloads/

LLANBERIS: CLOGWYN Y GROCHANWith work underway updating the definative Llanberis guide, author Calum Muskett and the Cli...
26/03/2023

LLANBERIS: CLOGWYN Y GROCHAN
With work underway updating the definative Llanberis guide, author Calum Muskett and the Climbers Club would be pleased to hear from anyone who has repeated any of Pat Littlejohn's new routes in the pass since the last guide.

Here are two of Pat's routes on the East Wing of Clogwyn y Crochan from 2018 right of Jawbone. These, and a dozen or so other of his new routes on this side of the pass can be found on the CC web site new routes pages here https://bit.ly/3nqF8pV.

Mothalode E2 5b 63m
The obvious groove line in the face R of Jawbone.
Start at a clean pillar of rock just L of a grassy groove containing a small tree.
1 13m 5a Climb the pillar, initially on sidepulls and moving R at the top to reach a perfect stance.
2 50m 5b Climb diagonally R on good holds (wet in places) till beneath the roof-capped groove. Move out left to clear the roof then follow the groove, trending right higher up to a grassy break. Climb to another break then take the right-hand option on the next tier (a slabby groove) to easier ground. Continue to the clifftop, belay then go across L to the abseil point above Pantheon.
FA: Pat Littlejohn, Tim Jepson, 18 May 2018.

Fathaland 40 m E2 5c.

Start on top of the obvious squat pinnacle just L of the vertical fault of Fa.
1 16m 5b. After a short wall climb direct up a narrow buttress. Near its top swing right on to a flake and make a long move to a nice stance on top of the buttress.
2 24m 5c. Climb the wall above (micro cam near the start) into a shallow groove and follow this to furry finishing holds. Continue past a quartz tooth then follow the cleanest line on quartzy rock to reach tree belays and an abseil point.
FA: Pat Littlejohn, Tim Jepson, 16 May 2018

Both Mothalode and Fathaland have been provisionally assigned a star, so so might expect some better quality rock than one or two of the other routes hereabouts. Besides, when has anyone come across a poor Littlejohn route?

Comments can be emailed to Calum at: [email protected]

TREMADOG: Craig Bwlch Y Moch One of the busiest areas of Tremadog - Craig Bwlch Y Moch -  owned and managed British Moun...
14/03/2023

TREMADOG: Craig Bwlch Y Moch
One of the busiest areas of Tremadog - Craig Bwlch Y Moch - owned and managed British Mountaineering Council (BMC) has now been dedicated as Open Access Land.

The BMC, who took over the crag in 1979 for the benefit of climbers is to classic climbs across the grades including One Step in the Clouds, Vector, and Strawberries has now been dedicated as open access land, securing the right to climb and walk in perpetuity even if the land is sold in future.

What is open access land?

Under the Countryside and Rights of Way Act 2000 (CROW Act), open access land is land on which the public can roam freely without staying on marked footpaths; the land can further be accessed on foot by groups for educational purposes. Other forms of transport such as horse riding and cycling are permitted, but must keep to bridleways or other recognised highways.

More here:https://www.thebmc.co.uk/craig-bwlch-y-moch--now-access-land

In other news, guidebook author Steve Long will start work to update The Climbers Club guidebook to Tremadog, which is still in print and for sale here at £25
https://climbers-club.co.uk/eshop/?product=tremadog

Photo: Simon Cardy

LLANBERIS: NEW GUIDE, NEW ROUTESWork has started on a new edition of the Llanberis guidebook. It will be a bumper (fun) ...
10/03/2023

LLANBERIS: NEW GUIDE, NEW ROUTES

Work has started on a new edition of the Llanberis guidebook. It will be a bumper (fun) and comprehensive edition detailing climbs in the Pass and Llanberis Valley. The guide will also incorporate Lliwedd and Cloggy.

The author is Calum Muskett and the book will be edited by Pete Johnson.

There are several new routes since the last guide that have few if any repeats and Callum would welcome any comments or good quality photos here: https://www.climbers-club.co.uk/new-routes/route-comment/
or by email: [email protected]

DINAS MOT
If you thought you'd done everything on the Mot here are three routes from the last guidebook author Iwan Afon Jones from 2015.

Dagrau'r Graig E1 5b
Good climbing on generally sound rock that still needs a clean up, but it can seep a bit around here. Start about 8m up and left of The Cracks at the base of a rib leading up to a pocketed steeper area of rock. From the top of the rib climb up to a vertical large Cam slot then head right to reach pockets and a shallow depression that leads up to a sequence of crack systems. These cracks gain a wide and vegetated crack, up and left of the overhangs on the cracks. Move out left onto the rib and climb it keeping left and out of the twin cracks of The Cracks for as long as possible.
I A Jones, C Allington 16/6/2015.

Teyrnon E2 5c 55m.
This climb is on good rock and although the first pitch is a tad mossy at the moment it should clean up well with traffic. Start at the first short columnar rib about 4m up to the left of the start of The Cracks and Direct Route.
P1 5a 30m Climb the rib to a series of shallow stepped grooves leading up to a patch of grass. Move left and avoid the grass just on its left, to continue up to cracks and what seems to be a flake. From the good foothold atop the false flake, move up right to belay below the overhangs, as for The Cracks.
P2 5c 25m Move left onto the rib, immediately left of the overhangs, and gain a curious wedge shaped pocket above an overlap. Move right and swing up right to reach the well worn ledges on The Cracks. Tackle the slim groove crack system between The Cracks pitch 3 and the corner of Lorraine on the right; the groove has one delicate move at its top.
I A Jones, P Haydock (on sight) 11/6/2015.

Orogenous Zones E3 5c 50m
This route presents a couple of bold pitches with diverting moves on good rock; the second pitch is particularly worthwhile and towards the top end of this grade. Start just right of the very base of the cliff; a little to the right of The Cracks/Direct Route start area, down and slightly to the right of the twin horns .
P1 5a 20m Climb the slabs easily to the base of a groove just down and right of the twin horns. Enter the groove and climb it boldly to reach the base of the large detached flake (on Diagonal), from its top left edge, move out left and swing round the rib airily to reach and belay on Direct Route; or, just a little left of it to keep out of the way.
P2 5c 30m Head diagonally up left along the base of the slab past a pocketed area (Lorraine Var. goes straight up here) to reach a diagonal cracks trending up left. Go right then up to gain the base of the wide crack at some heather, arrange some gear in a thinner crack to the left, then drop down and left to a fantastic position. With hands in the crack system and feet on small holds down below the rib, on the steep wall. Work your way up to an easing, where you can go back left again to follow the insipid crack and tackle the bold double crux moves up the rib edge.
I A Jones, B Reed (on sight AL) 15/7/2015

CLOGWYN DU'R ARDDU The definitive 'pocket size' climbing guide to this iconic cliff is still available at £15. https://c...
27/01/2023

CLOGWYN DU'R ARDDU The definitive 'pocket size' climbing guide to this iconic cliff is still available at £15. https://climbers-club.co.uk/eshop/?product=clogwyn-dur-arddu
Here's a short list of must do climbs to get inspired this summer: Woubits E2 5b**, The Mostest E2 5c**,Shrike E2 5c***, The Axe E4 6a***, Octo E1 5b**, The Hand Traverse E2 5c**, Pinnacle Arete E2 5b**, Pinnacle Flake E2 5b*, Sunset Crack VS 5a**, Lithrig E1 5c***, Serth E2 5c**,Pistolero E5 6b***, Capricorn E2 5c**, Pigott's Climb HVS 5a**,Diglyph HVS 5b*, Daurigol E3 6a**, Great Wall E4 6a***, A Midsummer's Nights Dream E6 6a***, Indian Face E9 6c***, Jelly Roll E2 5b***, November E3 5c***, Vember E1 5b***, Curving Crack VS 4c**, Curving Arete E4 5c***
The Troach E2 5b***, Pedestal Crack HVS 5a**, Scorpio E2 5b**, Silhouette E2 5c***, The CornerE1 5b***, The Boulder E1 5a***,The Boldest E4 5c***, Longland's Climb VS 4c**,Sheaf VS 4c**, West Buttress Eliminate E3 5c***, White Slab E2 5c***, Great Bow - Combination HVS 5a***, Great Slab VS 4c***.
Films: https://www.mntnfilm.com/en/p/map-search/climb:clogwyn-du-r-arddu
Articles from Footless Crow:
A Day Out on Wombits http://footlesscrow.blogspot.com/2012/04/day-out-on-woubits.html
Magic Carpet Ride on Cloggy's Great Slab
http://footlesscrow.blogspot.com/2016/04/magic-carpet-ride-on-cloggys-great-slab.html
Below Cloggy's East Buttress & Great Wall. Photo: Simon Cardy.

CULM & BAGGY £30. The definitive climbing guide to the Culm coast and Baggy Point has just been published as a reprint f...
04/10/2022

CULM & BAGGY £30. The definitive climbing guide to the Culm coast and Baggy Point has just been published as a reprint for this popular seacliff climbing area. Astute observers and guidebook reviewers (see post below) will also note that the re-print has attended to the quality of the print cover which now faithfully displays the image as originally shot in sharp detail. The guide is available from the online CC shop as well as other leading outlets. https://climbers-club.co.uk/eshop/?product=the-culm-and-baggy

LUNDY. The climb 'Controlled Burning' on the Torrey Canyon Cliff, one of four routes on the Island featured in 'Extreme ...
19/09/2022

LUNDY. The climb 'Controlled Burning' on the Torrey Canyon Cliff, one of four routes on the Island featured in 'Extreme Rock' (1987), has completely collapsed following the cliff's most recent catatatrophic rock fall. As many Lundy climbers will know, this part of the cliff has been disintergrating for many years. a process that begun not longer after the first routes like Conga (1974), Rachel (1980) and Stingray (1967) all collapsed in earlier rock falls.

Controlled Burning, first climbed by Gary Gibson, Derek Beetlestone and M.Brown in 1981, followed a dramatic and very photogenic crack line through a roof from a hands to finger crack. In recent years the finger crack has widened indicating further instability until it suffered a major collapse in 2014. Orginally graded E3, 5C, the last two known ascents were made in 2019 by Tony Stone, who gave it E6, 6a and James MaHaffie, who thought it more like E7,6a/b, see: https://dmmwales.com/Journal/April-2019/Controlled-Burning-on-Lundy-Island

Meanwhile work has begun on a new update for the guide that will take account of this and other signficant rockfalls. If you are planning a trip to Lundy check out the latest bird nesting cliff restrictions (2022) for the best time to go to suite you as well and the supplement (2018) published on the CC website: https://www.climbers-club.co.uk/lundy/

Before (2005) and after (September, 2022). Photos: Simon Cardy

'SCOTTISH ROCK CLIMBS' (2022) is out this week published and produced by our sister publication 'Wired Guides' in collab...
01/09/2022

'SCOTTISH ROCK CLIMBS' (2022) is out this week published and produced by our sister publication 'Wired Guides' in collaboration with the SMC. Profits from the guide go to the Scottish Mountaineering Trust which is a Scottish-registered charity. Purchasing this Guide helps support recreation, safety and education in the Scottish mountains. https://www.smc.org.uk/publications/climbing/scottish-rock-climbs

August 3 2022Lundy: Crag restrictions for the 2022 season currently in place.
03/08/2022

August 3 2022

Lundy: Crag restrictions for the 2022 season currently in place.

PEMBROKE ROCK (2016)by Emma Alsford & Paul DonnithornPembroke is a world-class climbing area, renowned for its atmospher...
21/07/2022

PEMBROKE ROCK (2016)
by Emma Alsford & Paul Donnithorn

Pembroke is a world-class climbing area, renowned for its atmospheric sea cliffs and dramatic rock architecture. Pembroke Rock offers a hand-picked selection of 1000 of the very best climbs, across the full grade range, and covering more than 30 cliffs from St David’s Head in North Pembroke all the way to Penally in the south. Selected crags are included from each of the five areas covered by the definitive Climbers’ Club guidebooks, and a number of new climbs from 2015 are included.

Buy: http://www.wired-guides.com/index.php /CCW059

FEATURED ROUTE  Llanberis Pass: Cold Fusion E4 (2013)A varied and enjoyable 5 pitch outing from Neil Foster with various...
21/07/2022

FEATURED ROUTE Llanberis Pass: Cold Fusion E4 (2013)

A varied and enjoyable 5 pitch outing from Neil Foster with various partners that has yet to be published in any guidebook and deserves attention. Neil has the capacity to find fantastic lines right from under everyone's noses. A charature building route that is said to get harder and better with each pitch. Quite what he means by a 'thought provoking exit' is anyone's guess but there's only one way of finding out.

Start at the left edge of the flying buttress immediately right of the groove of Dolerite Dump on the Western Wing of the Mot.

1 – 20m 4c Climb the left edge of the buttress passing a spike to a shelf. Step left on a tiny glacis, then rock-up onto the slab. Climb the short groove and slab to a thread, then pull up the rib to belay at a flat-topped block.
2 – 15m 5b Follow the jamming crack above until it closes, then hand traverse the break right to reach easy ground beneath a huge Matterhorn flake. Climb down and belay on a ledge just beneath a shelf running out onto the face on the right.
3 – 20m 5c Step right on the shelf, and traverse right to a good horizontal slot. Fill this with cams, then reverse a short distance and rock up onto a shelf. Cautiously follow the thin crack (the lefthand of two) and scooped wall to its left, heading for an obvious weakness in the capping bulges. The slabby left wall of the groove above, and short ridge, leads to block and thread belays.
4 – 40m 5c Above is a damp recess. Climb the rib left of this, pull up right to a heather terrace and walk left to spikes beneath an angular niche. Pull into the niche and exit left, then follow big holds on the right to a good break. Locate a shallow groove immediately left of a rocking chockstone, and climb this to a vague horizontal (good runner out right). Climb straight up to the weakness in the roof, and make a blind move to a big hold out left on the lip (rock 1 just to the right). Stand up and follow the easier groove to the next overhangs, which are passed on the left to gain the continuation groove. Once established, locate a narrow foot ledge and traverse this right to a tiny spike on the arête. Gain the lip of the overlap above, then move left and balance up the shallow groove to the final band of overhangs. Step right and pull through to gain a commodious heather and bilberry ledge complete with tree and a rock seat.
5 – 40m 6a The headwall above sports a fine crack leading to a v-notch, with a continuation crack running up the left arête of the notch. Climb the crack and gain the notch. Bridge up and pull up left using the continuation crack to stand on the rib. Climb the rib and two mossy scoops on the left to a bulge complete with a rope eating crack (a cam in this should stop any swallowed ropes jamming). Swing right on a big spike and follow the short ramp leading to the base of a blocky groove. Move right and rock into the base of the perfect shallow finishing groove and climb this to a thought-provoking exit.
First ascent history:
P1 -3 - Neil Foster, Clare Reading 14/07/13
P5 - Neil Foster, Jake Rogers 20/07/13
Whole route - Neil Foster, Rab Carrington 27/07/13
Pitch 2 had been climbed previously in 2010 by Dai Lampard and Iwan Arfon Jones

New from Wired Guides NORTHERN ROCK (2022)Northern Rock is published by the Yorkshire Mountaineering Club, the British M...
21/07/2022

New from Wired Guides NORTHERN ROCK (2022)
Northern Rock is published by the Yorkshire Mountaineering Club, the British Mountaineering Council, the Northumbrian Mountaineering Club, and the Cleveland Mountaineering Club. A beautifully colourful book presenting the best traditional and sport climbing and bouldering in Northumberland, the North York Moors, Yorkshire, and Lancashire. The bumper selection of over 3500 climbs and problems with detailed accurate maps and full photo-diagram coverage has been carefully curated by dedicated local experts from each area. A guidebook that will provide any climber with a massive resource of quality days out, and inspiration for many more on top of that!

Buy here: http://www.wired-guides.com/

SOUTH WALES ROCK (2020)This guide contains 1500 of the best routes in South Wales. With Limestone escarpments overlookin...
16/07/2022

SOUTH WALES ROCK (2020)
This guide contains 1500 of the best routes in South Wales. With Limestone escarpments overlooking the mountains, hidden Sandstone quarries for your first steps climbing outside or projecting hard classics, and sea cliffs offering either a big adventure or pleasant day out, it’s hard to beat the variety of climbing on offer.
Featuring trad routes from Diff. to E6, sport routes from to F4 to F8a+, bouldering and Deep Water Solos, all made easy to find with topos and maps and packed full of inspirational photos throughout.
This is a guide book like no other, a hybrid guide that combines the convenience of a select book with the completeness of a comprehensive guide. We’ve tucked into these pages the best climbing this area has to offer, with links to the South Wales Climbing wiki that records everything else that’s been climbed. This means no more compromises on book size or information volume and when new routes get put up and old ones fall down, the Wiki will keep you up to date and in the know.
Written Matt Woodfield, Alan Rosier, Roy Thomas and Tim Hoddy (In association with South Wales Wiki)
£30
Buy
https://climbers-club.co.uk/eshop/?product=south-wales-rock

Latest publication CULM & BAGGY (2021)by Mark KemballIt has been almost twenty years since the last definitive guide to ...
14/07/2022

Latest publication CULM & BAGGY (2021)
by Mark Kemball

It has been almost twenty years since the last definitive guide to North Devon. In that time we have seen the development of a number of new lower grade (S – HVS) venues, the country’s first E11 (quickly downgraded to E9) and an explosion of bouldering including possibly the world’s hardest crack problem. This guide attempts to document all this with detailed phototopos and some fine action shots. The best of the bouldering in the area are included.

Extensively researched by local activists with many years of rock-climbing experience in the region. Lead author Mark Kemball has been climbing in the area since the late 80s.

Contributors:
Mark Davies (Baggy Point and Sloo Slabs), Mark Garland (Clovelly Slab, Smoothlands, Damehole Point, Dyer’s Lookout and Screda Point), Stu Bradbury (Exmansworthy, Cow and Calf, Smoothlands Great Slab, Hartland Quay and Lower Sharpnose), Mike Thorpe (Knapps Longpeak, Foxhold Slabs and Hippa Rock), James Mann (Marsland), Joel Perkins senior (Vicarage Cliff), Richard “Mosseee” Moss(The Prom, Maer Cliff, Crooklets, and Millook) and Mark “Macca” McManus (Upton, and Arrowhead Pinnacle area plus help with the Northcott bouldering and Compass Point).

Author: Mark Kemball
Artwork and maps: Don Sargeant
396 pages
Full colour photos and topos throughout
ISBN: 978-0-957281-59-2
£30
Buy https://climbers-club.co.uk/eshop/?product=the-culm-and-baggy

09/07/2022

In development..coming soon

08/07/2022

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