16/06/2025
Flatanger- Week Three: A trifecta of “must-do” F7c’s
Ticking Berntsenbanden – and hence finishing the trifecta of Flatanger’s “must-do” F7c’s – was high on the list for my Flatanger trip. I’d done Eventyrblanding and Bondeanger previously so Berntsenbanden was outstanding business. Collectively, these three routes are amongst the very best at Flatanger; each has its own character and all are surprisingly different despite being neighbours on the same wall.
Eventyrblanding is a mix of crimps, slopers and would-be jugs; on first acquaintance it feels hard but good shake-outs reduce the sting making it the easiest of the three. Next-up is Bondeanger. It’s the longest of the three and another varied pitch; the high-on-the-pitch crimpy crux and a pumpy finishing crack are both very easy to drop.
Berntsenbanden is completely different. In another life it might have been a trad route – it certainly feels like it for the majority of its top half but the dynamic bouldery moves in the bottom half of the pitch however say sport climbing. It’s an unusual sport climb; there’s a dearth of crimping – instead expect a fair bit of finger jamming, a mother of a rounded boss and even a no-feet layback to finish. And just for fun, there are very often wet jams and footholds in the crack in the middle of the pitch as well!
Fortunately, and as many at Flatanger, Berntsenbanden has a number of decent shake-outs. The various bouldery sections though are pretty burly and although easier, the intimidating finish up the top corner demands a confident approach pushing through your feet on a holdless vertical “slab”.
The only downside is that you have to start up Hovdegjengen - a solid contender for the "world's hardest 6c" - fortunately though there’s a "sit-down" rest before Berntsenbanden starts proper.
If F7c is your grade then these three classics make an excellent challenge; the Triple Crown of Flatanger for sure!
Thanks to .p.richmond for the send footage.
