Keith Sharples Photography

Keith Sharples Photography I specialise in rock climbing, travel and adventure photography from the UK, Europe and beyond. For more, please visit www.keithsharplesphotography.co.uk

Autumn is here it seems...It's been a while since I posted but the autumnal scenes are just gorgeous and are getting bet...
21/10/2025

Autumn is here it seems...

It's been a while since I posted but the autumnal scenes are just gorgeous and are getting better by the day...

16/06/2025

Flatanger- Week Three: A trifecta of “must-do” F7c’s
Ticking Berntsenbanden – and hence finishing the trifecta of Flatanger’s “must-do” F7c’s – was high on the list for my Flatanger trip. I’d done Eventyrblanding and Bondeanger previously so Berntsenbanden was outstanding business. Collectively, these three routes are amongst the very best at Flatanger; each has its own character and all are surprisingly different despite being neighbours on the same wall.
Eventyrblanding is a mix of crimps, slopers and would-be jugs; on first acquaintance it feels hard but good shake-outs reduce the sting making it the easiest of the three. Next-up is Bondeanger. It’s the longest of the three and another varied pitch; the high-on-the-pitch crimpy crux and a pumpy finishing crack are both very easy to drop.
Berntsenbanden is completely different. In another life it might have been a trad route – it certainly feels like it for the majority of its top half but the dynamic bouldery moves in the bottom half of the pitch however say sport climbing. It’s an unusual sport climb; there’s a dearth of crimping – instead expect a fair bit of finger jamming, a mother of a rounded boss and even a no-feet layback to finish. And just for fun, there are very often wet jams and footholds in the crack in the middle of the pitch as well!
Fortunately, and as many at Flatanger, Berntsenbanden has a number of decent shake-outs. The various bouldery sections though are pretty burly and although easier, the intimidating finish up the top corner demands a confident approach pushing through your feet on a holdless vertical “slab”.
The only downside is that you have to start up Hovdegjengen - a solid contender for the "world's hardest 6c" - fortunately though there’s a "sit-down" rest before Berntsenbanden starts proper.
If F7c is your grade then these three classics make an excellent challenge; the Triple Crown of Flatanger for sure!
Thanks to .p.richmond for the send footage.

Cave Life – Week 2, Part 2The cave proper is the target-rich environment at Flatanger for the world’s best climbers; wit...
06/06/2025

Cave Life – Week 2, Part 2
The cave proper is the target-rich environment at Flatanger for the world’s best climbers; with few exceptions, the routes here are outrageous - outrageously steep, outrageously hard and very often outrageously long!
Watching climbers in action on these routes is humbling and inspirational in equal measure. As per my earlier post, Domen Skofic ticked the fifth ascent of Move (F9b/+) during the first week of our trip. After that he spent a bit of time looking at both Change (F9b/+) and Seb Bouin’s Nordic Marathon F9b+.
Josh Ibbotson and Leo Boe were also deep into projecting on Change. Both had redpointed pitch 1 of Change in 2024 and both were working on pitch 2. As on many of the cave routes there’s a rope change-over at the top of pitch 1; what is unusual however, is that this is done not from a kneebar but from a bridged out position facing out! Beyond that, the line snakes upwards and outwards passing numerous hard boulder sections kneebar shake-outs.
Sadly, I didn’t manage to get any images of Josh in action but here’s a sequence of Leo on Change.
Pix 1: Leo Boe on the initial roof of pitch 2 of Change (F9b/+)
Pix 2: Leo Boe on pitch 1 of Change, the crucial overhanging groove being just below the overhang below
Pix 3: Leo Boe wrestling with the so-called “rest/change-over” at the top of pitch 1 of Change
Pix 4 & 5: Leo Boe getting underway on pitch 2 of Change
Pix 6 - 8: Leo Boe working on his way up the middle section of pitch 2 of Change

Cave Life – Week 2, Part 1The absolute stunning rock quality and architecture at Flatanger is, for me, both inspirationa...
04/06/2025

Cave Life – Week 2, Part 1
The absolute stunning rock quality and architecture at Flatanger is, for me, both inspirational and irresistible; unsurprisingly a high proportion of the routes there are absolute belters. It’s undoubtedly a cliché but many can easily be described as “must-do” if not “best-in-grade” routes.
For many climbers the left wall will be the main attraction; routes here are less steep and less difficult than those in the cave proper. In this context it’s important to stress however, that less is a relative term; most of the routes are 30 to 40m long, overhang 10 to 15m or more and weigh-in between F7a and F8c+. Crimpy sections are not uncommon but neither is 3D yarding up steeply overhanging rock. Many routes have boulderery cruxes; thankfully most come with half-decent rests often involving kneebars. Almost without except the climbing is physically hard going and draining; grades vary; sometimes quite dramatically.

Pix 1 to 3: The position of Tungt moblert (F7a+) on the very left edge of the main wall at Hanshallaren makes for a stunning image when the lighting is right. It’s a cracking pitch and it gets loads of ascents
Pix 4 Dave Idendin exiting the crux on Hovdegjengen (F6c) – arguably Hanshallaren’s biggest sandbag. A grade of F7a wouldn’t really be a-miss for Hovdegjengen!
Pix 5 & 6: Dave Idendin in action on the brilliant Berntsenbanden (F7c). This beefy pitch, one of the harder at the grade at the crag, extends Hovdegjengen, making a mega 25m pitch up steeply overhanging rock.

Flatanger Update : Week 1 – Part 2Coming to terms with the fickle, and often rapidly changing, weather patterns at Flat...
29/05/2025

Flatanger Update : Week 1 – Part 2
Coming to terms with the fickle, and often rapidly changing, weather patterns at Flatanger makes climbing – especially early or late in the season – pretty challenging is essential. Unsurprisingly however, early or late in the season is typically when you get the best climbing conditions.
During mid/late May in spring 2024 we regularly had daytime temps in the mid-20’s and climbing on the main wall outside the cave was virtually impossible in the afternoon sun. Our first week this year however, the temps struggled even to hit double figures!
Functioning in sub-ten degree temps, especially in the shade - isn’t everyone idea of a great time but once through the warm-up pain climbing conditions were typically superb. Classics routes like Steiny, Bondeanger, Eventyrblanding and Paltergeist got ticked by a variety of teams.
Inside the cave itself Josh Ibbotson and Leo Boe were working the second pitch of Change (F9b/+). Deeper in the cave Domen Skofic, having opened his account last year and honed his sequences, made the fifth ascent of Move (F9b/+). Move, a 55metre monster, is Skofic’s hardest route to date; his repeat follows those by Alex Megos and Jorge Díaz-Rullo who climbed it last year, Seb Bouin (2019) and Adam Ondra’s (2013) first ascent.
Pix 1: A Japanese climber on Steiny (F8a) reflects on the effort of the lower boulder crux prior before continuing to successfully complete the redpoint.
Pix 2: The top section of Steiny is sufficiently difficult to dispatch anyone who gets careless
Pixs 3 – 6: Paltergeist (F7c+) is a superb “wall” climb in the middle of the main wall. Although the mid-height bulging section offers the main difficulties, it’s not over till it’s over
Pix 7: Domen Skofic, having dispatched the fifth ascent of Move (F9b/+), takes a run up Change (F9b/+). He’s pictured here on the easier second half of the first pitch

Flatanger Update : Week 1 – Part 1 Even as Flatanger goes, it’s been a pretty crazy week; low temps, with wind and rain...
25/05/2025

Flatanger Update : Week 1 – Part 1
Even as Flatanger goes, it’s been a pretty crazy week; low temps, with wind and rain sweeping in giving some amazing climbing connies and stunning evening light/sunsets.
We’re based in Lauvsnes; it’s a small but important rural settlement about 6klicks east of Hanshallaren. It's pretty quiet; generally speaking, there’s more boats tied up at the jetty getting fuel than cars at the pumps but the local Spar – the biggest in the area by some margin - is a hive of activity. Life is simple; eat, climb (or rest), sleep then repeat.
It’s still early in the season – hence the generally cold temps – and whilst we've already seen the first hard route send of the season (more in a second post) the Cave is still pretty quiet.
Some days the evening light has been incredible; it’s very disorientating but the sun isn’t setting until nearly 23:00hrs and it never really goes dark even at this time in May.
Here’s some scenic highlights and general craziness here…
Pix 1: Strong scenes of the classic Norwegian buildings down by the waterfront in Lauvsnes in the setting sun
Pix 2: Hilltop view above Lauvsnes looking out west
Pix 3: The rocky archipelago west of Lauvsnes
Pix 4: A beach view of Lauvsnes (centre) from one of said “islands”
Pix 5: A boat house door featuring goodness only knows what?!
Pix 6: Temps have been pretty crispy generally
Pix 7: Having filled-up in Lauvsnes a small fishing boat heads out of town as the sun finally decides to call it
Pix 8 – 10: Seascapes from Lauvsnes

It’s time again... Mid May is the start of operations at Hallshallaren so that’s where I’m heading with the gang. I sus...
16/05/2025

It’s time again...
Mid May is the start of operations at Hallshallaren so that’s where I’m heading with the gang. I suspect it’s gonna be quite a shock landing in Trondheim and being greeted with what are forecast to be pretty chilly temps; that’s just the way it’s gonna be though!
Whilst taking breaks from packing I’ve spent a bit of time going through my photo archive looking at pixs and harvesting route beta. Although I’m not sure it’ll helped much with the things I have in mind it’s sure got me psyched to get back to Flatanger and get at it again.
Either way, here’s a selection of (largely unpublished) shots from previous trips …
Pix 1: Paul fully engaged in the boulder crux of Gusanito F8a+ in the cave proper
Pix 2: Tungt moblert at F7a+ takes a prominent position at the left-hand end of the main wall with the stunning view out to the sea beyond
Pix 3: Karl on the demanding Kakestykket F7a+; B.I.G. F9c blasts upwards for the end of this pitch
Pix 4: The ubber classic Bondeanger F7c is one of the best routes at Flatanger; around 35m of contiuously interesting and demanding climbing with the crux where it should be
Pix 5: Odin’s Eye F8c is equally physical and aesthetically pleasing
Pix 6: Muy Verde F8c maybe short (ish) but it packs a punch
Pix 7: Compression bouldering on Steiny F8a doesn’t come any better
Pixs 8: The walk home
Pix 9: The evening BBQ with fresh-caught fish

It’s not all jug hauling though…Following on from the previous post extoling the virtues of the pumpy Euro-style climbin...
09/05/2025

It’s not all jug hauling though…
Following on from the previous post extoling the virtues of the pumpy Euro-style climbing at the Devil’s Gorge it would be remiss not to point out that not all the routes there involving hauling up lines of big jugs. Actually, that’s far from the case.
Take Devil’s Haircut (F7c) as an example; this is one of the routes in the Gorge that has some pretty bouldery and fingery moves on it and hence packs quite a punch. After a hard start Devil’s Haircut easies back a bit before kicking in again at a mid-height bulge. Above that, and just when you thought you might get away with it, Devil’s Haircut joins Broccoli and Ice-Cream for the pumpy finale on that route. Similarly, Underworld (F7c/+) just left again is pretty feisty.
Where things go a little haywire is if/when you finish Devils Haircut by heading left to finish up Canyonlands to give Beetroot and Creatine (F8a) or go right and finish up It Takes Glue to Tango to give Dance with the Devil (F8a). Likewise by extending Underworld you get Hades (F8a+), The Bear (F8a+) or Paradiso (F8b). Anyone of these extensions will get you pumped stupid!
Pix 1 – 5: Alex Morris on the lower wall of Devil’s Haircut
Pix 6 – 8: Alex on the upper crux before joining Broccoli and Ice-Cream
Pix 9 & 10: Joining Broccoli and Ice-Cream for the pumpy finale

More Euro than Euro…Hidden in plain sight deep within the heavily wooded Loggerheads Country Park, Devil’s Gorge is reno...
05/05/2025

More Euro than Euro…
Hidden in plain sight deep within the heavily wooded Loggerheads Country Park, Devil’s Gorge is renowned for its steep overhanging endurance climbing. It is, in fact, more Euro-style climbing than at many Euro crags! Although it’s neither a massive nor a conies-dependable venue - quite the opposite to be honest, it’s a relatively limited crag with a major conies problem – it’s got an excellent collection of great sport routes.
As with many fickle venue s predicting bon cons feels almost as difficult as guessing the numbers for the Euro millions jackpot! On a good day, bon cons are to be savoured; on a bad day however, condensation will rob you of anything even closely resembling friction and, in all probability, all your dreams as well! If you do arrive on a bad day, the back-ups are either the bouldering, Dinbren, Llanymynech or a longer drive into North Wales proper.
The limited rainfall this spring has helped accelerate the typically slow drying process such that even the most stubborn seepage streaks are now drying out finally.
The overhanging and uber pumpy Grand Caynon (F7b+) is without a doubt one of the best routes of its grade anywhere in the country; twenty odd metres of overhanging strenuous climbing on mainly good holds. Canyonlands (F8a) is an absolutely cracking extension and Cerberus (F8a) is an excellent alternative finish. And now, there’s an additional finish - a brand spanking new link from Grand Canyon into It Takes Glue to Tango which goes by the name of Grand Tango (F8a).
Pix 1: Ant Ingham, having climbed much of Grand Canyon, is taking a moment to contemplate the link into and then the crux of It Take Glue to Tango prior to making the first ascent of Grand Tango
Pixs 2 – 3: Ant on the lower section of Grand Canyon
Pix 4: Ant engrossed in the new climbing between Grand Canyon and It Takes Glue to Tango
Pixs 5 – 6: Tim on the Grand Canyon headwall
Pixs 7 – 8: Donie O’Sullivan on the headwall crux of the so-called “warm-up” route, Barnie Rubble (F7a+)

Embracing esoterica on Moorland Grit…When you hear that something that is usually wet and horrid is dry, clean and getti...
27/04/2025

Embracing esoterica on Moorland Grit…
When you hear that something that is usually wet and horrid is dry, clean and getting done then it’s worth following up on; a visit to John Henry Quarry is pretty esoteric, but it turned out a good move yesterday…
A stone’s throw from the middle of Tintwisle, John Henry Quarry is never gonna be the top of most climbers’ “must visit” locations! It wasn’t on my radar and if I’m honest, I’d not even heard about it until last week. For an old abandoned gritstone quarry it’s actually very pleasant. When the local highway by-pass scheme was abandoned, John Henry got a reprieve; now it’s owned by the local council and is something of a green haven within Tintwisle.
In terms of the climbing, the centre of the back wall is where the best action is. Soaked by winter seepage, the rock has been stained but now it’s dry it’s visually quite appealing. Ferny Lee Crack is written up as the “Cenotaph Corner of Bleaklow”; is a very decent pitch albeit considerable easier than the Welsh version – very accommodating at E1 5b in fact.
The left wall of the corner has a prominent thin, slanting and overhanging crack called Rated Steep E3 5c. It’s very tasty jamming for most but for anyone with fat sausage fingers – and that includes yours truly – the tech grade increases in direct proportion to your finger size! The wall just right is home to Jim’s Gym’ll Fix It (E5 6b/Fr7b); the closest thing on gritstone to a sport route thanks to the four in-situ pegs! Right of Ferny Lee Crack there’s several good looking lines; Mr Friendly (incorrectly called Hey Mister in the BMC guide) included.
The routes outlined won’t be out of place at Millstone; the rock is a bit sandy in places and the top-outs can be a bit dodgy. Hopefully I’ll get back for some more during the current dry spell…
Pixs 1 to 6: Andy Stewart cruising up Mr Friendly (E3 5c)
Pixs 7 to 10: Sophie White plugging her way up the jamming crack of Rated Steep (E3 5c); thin finger recommended!!

I love “getting off the beaten track” every once in while…So, finally, I've got round to sampling the climbing at Nesscl...
16/04/2025

I love “getting off the beaten track” every once in while…
So, finally, I've got round to sampling the climbing at Nesscliffe and, I've gotta say, I'm really enjoying it! May 2019 was my first and only visit prior to this year; that day I had the privilege to witness and capture Steve Mac making the FA of Greatness Wall (E10 7a). Sadly, I didn’t get to climb and regrettably it’s taken me another six years to finally address that omission!
As I’m sure anyone familiar with Nesscliffe will tell you, it’s quite a place. I’m not sure if you could describe Nesscliffe as unique, but let's just say that it sure is special! Like all sandstone crags, the rock quality is a bit variable; hardly surprising really given it’s an old quarry. Where it’s good though it’s very good – elsewhere it’s… err… quite sandy. What is undeniable though, is that many of the routes take stonking lines whether that’s up one of the many arête’s, one of the corners or one of the walls in-between.
Whilst some routes get attempted ground-up, many are inspected and practiced on top-rope prior to being either head-pointed or red-pointed. Taller climbers generally seem to have a more relaxing time too. I'm (now) 5'9" (plus a bit) and never considered myself short but I defo having to stretch a fair bit and throw some extra moves in on some routes. Be that as it may, I'm loving the climbing there. Marooned in the midst of Shropshire on the outskirts of Shrewsbury, it’s a drive for many and an adventure for most…
And just as the amazing spring weather was about to break last weekend I got some shots of Arthur Eley putting in some great burns on Gathering Sun (E7 6c)…
Pix 1: Arthur pulling a great shape at half-height on Gathering Sun...
Pixs 2 to 5: Arthur on the lower wall of Gathering Sun - shot from the ground...
Pixs 6 to 8: Arthur on the headwall of Gathering Sun - shot from the top of Cones and Current...

Surely the best start to a limestone season for a decade?!With temps into the mid to high teens in the current run of da...
04/04/2025

Surely the best start to a limestone season for a decade?!

With temps into the mid to high teens in the current run of day-after-day blue bird super dry conditions it's no surprise that many limestone crags are now dry - including a significant number of those that are typically very slow-to-dry.

Understandably, many climbers are already seeking out shade for the better climbing connies. Up in the Dales that means afternoons at Malham and Kilnsey but other crags are available too and if you know, then you know...

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