The Happy Horse Hub

02/07/2025

We have had an overwhelming response so are sorting through emails now but are closed to new applicants for now. If you are interested please email or message us and if we open another round we will let you know. Don't forget we also have free advertising available on our site or premium advertising and access to our action packed business courses including our popular social media action course for just £49 for a whole year right now 💚

https://www.thehappyhorsehub.com

Thanks
The Happy Horse Hub Team 💚

We are looking for 2 or 3 other small horsey business owners who want to grow their social media following and reach to take part in a little project we have. There is no charge, catch or sell but is absolutely will help your business reach more horse owners so if you're interested drop us a msg and we'll explain 💚

02/07/2025

We ❤️ Tack That Twinkles so so and give them a follow, and what better way to treat your horse than by ordering one of Millie Ayres absolutely gorgeous collection ;-) 💚

02/07/2025

A great and serious reminder. One of the problems with ragwort poisoning is you won't even know necessarily that your horse has it until years later when they go into kidney or liver failure. So remove it as soon as you see, even if it's not your job, even if someone else is responsible, let's put the horses welfare above all that. If there's a lot at your yard why not make a yard event out of it. Get the bbq on and get pulling :-) if you have a good way to remove it, maybe a tool you swear by or easy way to get it out then do share 💚

*** IT IS A LEGAL REQUIREMENT TO REMOVE RAGWORT FROM ALL LAND USED FOR GRAZING HORSES AND LIVESTOCK ***

I have, once again, been shocked at the amount of ragwort I’ve seen left in paddocks with horses in. Even the most clueless of horse owners can normally tell you that ragwort is poisonous to horses, so why are so many owners not pulling it?!

It is actually an OFFENCE to leave ragwort in any field intended for grazing or hay making, AND an offence to allow it to seed and spread onto neighbouring land, if that neighbouring land is used for the same. That neighbour is within their rights to take LEGAL ACTION against you, if you allow ragwort to flower and seed on your land. I cannot fathom why you wouldn’t want to clear your own paddocks of ragwort, as it is both chronically and acutely POISONOUS to horses. It is absolutely not safe to just assume that horses won’t eat it. There is hardly any grass in any paddocks at the moment, and these are normally the paddocks that you see full of ragwort.

Under the Weeds Act 1959, you can be FINED for leaving ragwort to flower and seed on your land, if it is used for, or adjacent to, grazing livestock.

Don’t be complacent and lazy; pull that ragwort TODAY! We are all caught out by the odd bit of ragwort here and there, that has seemingly appeared overnight, but I’m talking about the crops of the stuff that should have been pulled weeks ago.

30/06/2025

Has anyone tried a H-Trap in the UK?

🪤 What is an H-Trap?

The H-Trap is a physical, non-chemical trap specifically designed to target horse flies (Tabanidae). It works by mimicking the movement and warmth of a large animal, which attracts the flies.

Here’s how it functions:

• The black ball at the base warms in the sun and sways gently in the breeze – this attracts horse flies, which rely on heat, shape, and motion to detect targets.
• The fly lands on the ball, thinking it’s an animal.
• When it realises it can’t feed, it flies upward (as is their instinct).
• The fly is then caught in a funnel-shaped trap at the top and cannot escape.

This trap is:
• Chemical-free
• Reusable
• Highly targeted (it doesn't attract beneficial insects or small flies)
• Designed to reduce the breeding population over time.

🧪 Is it effective?

Yes – and it’s backed by research and real-world results:

• A single H-Trap can capture thousands of horse flies per season, especially if placed in the right location.
• Studies in Europe and the US have shown a visible reduction in fly pressure in the areas around the trap.
• It doesn’t just repel flies – it physically removes them from the environment.
Some yards report a 50–90% reduction in horse fly numbers after just a few weeks of using an H-Trap correctly.

✅ Pros of Using an H-Trap:

• No chemicals, sprays, or reapplication needed.
• Weatherproof and durable – can last several seasons.
• Can break the breeding cycle if used early enough in the season.
• Safe for use near horses, pets, and wildlife.

⚠️ Things to Keep in Mind:
• You need sun and space – it works best in open, sunny areas (fields, yard perimeters, near water sources).
• It’s not designed for midges or stable flies – just horse flies.
• One trap usually covers around 1 hectare (2.5 acres), so you may need more than one for large properties.
• You still need fly sprays or rugs for close-up protection.

🧭 Where to place it:

• Ideally away from your horse’s shelter or stable, so it draws flies away from where your horses are standing.
• Near hedgerows, woodland edges, water sources, or manure heaps – places where horse flies like to breed or rest.
• Ensure it’s in the sun so the black ball heats up.

So is it worth it?

Yes – if you have space and a horse fly problem, H-Traps are one of the most effective ways to reduce their numbers long-term.

They're not a complete solution, but they’re a powerful tool when used alongside fly rugs, sprays, and good paddock management and over time can reduce the number of horse flies in your field and stable yard making their rather eye watering price worth it (especially when you compare to how much you spend each season on fly sprays and potions)

Has anyone tried one? How did you find it? 💚

30/06/2025

🪰 Horse Flies, Fly Sprays & Frustration: Why Nothing Seems to Work (and What Might Actually Help)

We all love the long, warm days of summer… until the horse flies arrive.

If you're feeling defeated by the constant battle with biting flies – especially the big, aggressive ones that leave your horse jumping, stamping and stressed – you're not alone. Even the best fly sprays can seem useless on those hot, still days when horse flies are out in full force.

So let’s take a closer look at what’s really going on.

Why are horse flies so persistent? Why doesn’t your fly spray seem to help? And what can we realistically do to protect our horses?

What Makes Horse Flies So Awful?

Horse flies are part of a group of biting insects called Tabanidae. Unlike midges or mosquitoes, which use a fine, needle-like mouthpart to draw blood, horse flies take a much more brutal approach. The females slice into the skin with scissor-like mouthparts, then lap up the blood. Yes, it’s as unpleasant as it sounds – and that’s why their bites are so painful.

Only female horse flies bite, and they need a blood meal in order to reproduce. They’re drawn to:
• Body heat
• Sweat and moisture
• Carbon dioxide from breathing
• Dark colours
• Movement

So if your horse is warm, dark-coated, sweaty, or simply standing still on a muggy day, they’re a prime target

Why Doesn’t Fly Spray Always Work?

Many horse owners feel like they’re spraying their horses constantly, only to watch the flies return within minutes. That’s not your imagination – there are a few reasons fly sprays often seem to fail.

Most fly sprays fall into two main categories:

1. Chemical repellents or insecticides

These include:
• DEET – This confuses the fly’s ability to smell or sense the horse. It’s commonly used in both human and animal repellents.

• Permethrin or Cypermethrin – These are synthetic versions of natural pyrethrins (insecticides made from chrysanthemum flowers). They can kill or repel insects on contact by disrupting their nervous systems.
Sprays with these ingredients are usually longer-lasting and more effective – but they also break down quickly in sunlight, or when your horse sweats, rolls, or gets wet.

2. Natural-based repellents
These are usually made with essential oils like:
• Citronella
• Neem
• Eucalyptus
• Tea tree
• Lavender
While they smell nice and are less harsh on sensitive skin, natural sprays wear off quickly – often within 30–60 minutes – especially on hot, sunny days.

So if your fly spray isn’t working, it may be because:

• The ingredients aren't strong enough for horse flies
• The spray is wearing off quickly due to sweat or sun
• Your horse is very attractive to flies (yes, really – some just are!)

What Does Work (Realistically)?

Here’s a look at some of the better-performing options and techniques – backed by both science and real-world use

✅ Stronger fly sprays and repellents
• Coopers Fly Repellent Plus – Combines permethrin with tea tree oil; tends to last longer and is vet-approved.
• Deosect – Prescription-only and very effective against horse flies. Must be diluted and used carefully.
• Nettex Summer Freedom Salve – Great for protecting sensitive areas and useful against midges too.
Even strong repellents may need to be reapplied once or twice a day during peak fly season.

✅ Physical protection
• Fly rugs – Especially ones with belly flaps and neck covers. Zebra-striped rugs have actually been shown in studies to confuse flies and reduce landings.
• Fly masks – Make sure they have ear and nose protection if needed.
• Fly boots – For horses getting bitten around the legs or constantly stamping.

✅ Timing and turnout
• Try to avoid turnout during peak fly hours (roughly 10am–4pm).
• Many horses are more comfortable out early in the morning or in the evening, when horse flies are less active.

• If you have the option, stabling with a fan can help – flies struggle to land in moving air.

🪤 Could a Horse Fly Trap Actually Help?

Yes – especially an H-Trap. These clever, chemical-free devices are designed specifically to catch and remove horse flies from your yard or paddock.

Here’s how they work:

• The trap has a large black ball that heats up in the sun and gently sways, mimicking a warm animal.
• Female horse flies are drawn to the movement and heat, thinking it's a horse.
• When they realise it’s not food, they instinctively fly upwards – and get caught in the cone-shaped top, where they can’t escape.

🧪 Scientific studies and real-world testing have shown that these traps can significantly reduce horse fly numbers – by 50% to 90% in some areas, depending on fly pressure and placement.

Pros:
• Chemical-free and safe around animals
• Reusable and weatherproof
• Breaks the breeding cycle over time
• Highly targeted to horse flies (not midges or stable flies)

Tips for best results:

• Place the trap in a sunny, open space, away from your horse’s shelter – this draws flies away.
• One trap covers around 1 hectare (2.5 acres), so you may need more than one for larger areas.
• They work best before the population explodes, so early summer placement gives the best results.
They won’t replace sprays or rugs completely – but they do make a noticeable difference when used as part of a full fly control plan.

✅ Other Helpful Options

• Supplements like garlic (in moderation), brewer’s yeast, or cider vinegar may help reduce fly attraction for some horses.
• Fly traps or sticky ribbons placed away from horses can help reduce fly numbers.
• Paddock hygiene – removing droppings regularly, managing standing water, and keeping muck heaps well away from your horses.

Horse flies aren’t just annoying – they can cause real problems. Bites can lead to:

• Swelling and pain
• Allergic reactions or hives
• Skin infections
• Reluctance to be handled or ridden
• Even eye damage if flies swarm around the face

There’s no magic bullet, but combining different methods – stronger sprays, protective gear, paddock management, and traps like the H-Trap – can seriously reduce fly-related stress for you and your horse.

Have you found a secret weapon that actually works?
We’d love to hear what’s worked (or not!) on your yard 💚

* If you found this informative or useful please do give it a share to help other horse owners 💚

29/06/2025

🪰 Horse Flies, Fly Sprays & Frustration: Why Nothing Seems to Work (and What Might Actually Help)
We all love the long, warm days of summer… until the horse flies arrive.
If you're feeling defeated by the constant battle with biting flies – especially the big, aggressive ones that leave your horse jumping, stamping and stressed – you're not alone. Even the best fly sprays can seem useless on those hot, still days when horse flies are out in full force.
So let’s take a closer look at what’s really going on. Why are horse flies so persistent? Why doesn’t your fly spray seem to help? And what can we realistically do to protect our horses?
What Makes Horse Flies So Awful?
Horse flies are part of a group of biting insects called Tabanidae. Unlike midges or mosquitoes, which use a fine, needle-like mouthpart to draw blood, horse flies take a much more brutal approach. The females slice into the skin with scissor-like mouthparts, then lap up the blood. Yes, it’s as unpleasant as it sounds – and that’s why their bites are so painful.
Only female horse flies bite, and they need a blood meal in order to reproduce. They’re drawn to:
• Body heat
• Sweat and moisture
• Carbon dioxide from breathing
• Dark colours
• Movement
So if your horse is warm, dark-coated, sweaty, or simply standing still on a muggy day, they’re a prime target.
Why Doesn’t Fly Spray Always Work?
Many horse owners feel like they’re spraying their horses constantly, only to watch the flies return within minutes. That’s not your imagination – there are a few reasons fly sprays often seem to fail.
Most fly sprays fall into two main categories:
1. Chemical repellents or insecticides
These include:
• DEET – This confuses the fly’s ability to smell or sense the horse. It’s commonly used in both human and animal repellents.
• Permethrin or Cypermethrin – These are synthetic versions of natural pyrethrins (insecticides made from chrysanthemum flowers). They can kill or repel insects on contact by disrupting their nervous systems.
Sprays with these ingredients are usually longer-lasting and more effective – but they also break down quickly in sunlight, or when your horse sweats, rolls, or gets wet.
2. Natural-based repellents
These are usually made with essential oils like:
• Citronella
• Neem
• Eucalyptus
• Tea tree
• Lavender
While they smell nice and are less harsh on sensitive skin, natural sprays wear off quickly – often within 30–60 minutes – especially on hot, sunny days.
So if your fly spray isn’t working, it may be because:
• The ingredients aren't strong enough for horse flies
• The spray is wearing off quickly due to sweat or sun
• Your horse is very attractive to flies (yes, really – some just are!)
What Does Work (Realistically)?
Here’s a look at some of the better-performing options and techniques – backed by both science and real-world use.
✅ Stronger fly sprays and repellents
• Coopers Fly Repellent Plus – Combines permethrin with tea tree oil; tends to last longer and is vet-approved.
• Deosect – Prescription-only and very effective against horse flies. Must be diluted and used carefully.
• Nettex Summer Freedom Salve – Great for protecting sensitive areas and useful against midges too.
Even strong repellents may need to be reapplied once or twice a day during peak fly season.
✅ Physical protection
• Fly rugs – Especially ones with belly flaps and neck covers. Zebra-striped rugs have actually been shown in studies to confuse flies and reduce landings.
• Fly masks – Make sure they have ear and nose protection if needed.
• Fly boots – For horses getting bitten around the legs or constantly stamping.
✅ Timing and turnout
• Try to avoid turnout during peak fly hours (roughly 10am–4pm).
• Many horses are more comfortable out early in the morning or in the evening, when horse flies are less active.
• If you have the option, stabling with a fan can help – flies struggle to land in moving air.
🪤 Could a Horse Fly Trap Actually Help?
Yes – especially an H-Trap. These clever, chemical-free devices are designed specifically to catch and remove horse flies from your yard or paddock.
Here’s how they work:
• The trap has a large black ball that heats up in the sun and gently sways, mimicking a warm animal.
• Female horse flies are drawn to the movement and heat, thinking it's a horse.
• When they realise it’s not food, they instinctively fly upwards – and get caught in the cone-shaped top, where they can’t escape.
🧪 Scientific studies and real-world testing have shown that these traps can significantly reduce horse fly numbers – by 50% to 90% in some areas, depending on fly pressure and placement.
Pros:
• Chemical-free and safe around animals
• Reusable and weatherproof
• Breaks the breeding cycle over time
• Highly targeted to horse flies (not midges or stable flies)
Tips for best results:
• Place the trap in a sunny, open space, away from your horse’s shelter – this draws flies away.
• One trap covers around 1 hectare (2.5 acres), so you may need more than one for larger areas.
• They work best before the population explodes, so early summer placement gives the best results.
They won’t replace sprays or rugs completely – but they do make a noticeable difference when used as part of a full fly control plan.
✅ Other Helpful Options
• Supplements like garlic (in moderation), brewer’s yeast, or cider vinegar may help reduce fly attraction for some horses.
• Fly traps or sticky ribbons placed away from horses can help reduce fly numbers.
• Paddock hygiene – removing droppings regularly, managing standing water, and keeping muck heaps well away from your horses.
Final Thoughts
Horse flies aren’t just annoying – they can cause real problems. Bites can lead to:
• Swelling and pain
• Allergic reactions or hives
• Skin infections
• Reluctance to be handled or ridden
• Even eye damage if flies swarm around the face
There’s no magic bullet, but combining different methods – stronger sprays, protective gear, paddock management, and traps like the H-Trap – can seriously reduce fly-related stress for you and your horse.
Have you tried an H-Trap or found a secret weapon that actually works? We’d love to hear what’s worked (or not!) on your yard.

29/06/2025

Can we see your best stable enrichment ideas please? The horses absolutely love been in the field shelter in this heatwave (they can get in or out as they choose) so we want to add some things inside their stables to give them something to do while in there out of the heat.

Would love to see any ideas, creative or hacks. Thanks 💚

29/06/2025

Keeping Cool in a Heatwave:
A Simple Trick That Might Surprise You

With temperatures soaring across the UK this week, many of us are doing everything we can to keep our horses cool and comfortable. Shade, fresh water, salt licks, turning out overnight — all the usual tips are being put into action. But there’s one lesser-known trick that can actually make a difference inside stables or wooden field shelters, and it’s incredibly simple.

💧Spraying the inside of your wooden stable or shelter with water can help lower the temperature.

It might sound a bit odd at first, but there’s solid science behind it — and if your horse is standing in a stuffy stable or shelter this week, this might help take the edge off.

How it works

💧When you spray water onto wooden walls or floors, the water starts to evaporate. As it does, it draws heat from the surrounding surfaces and the air. That’s called evaporative cooling — it’s the same reason we sweat. The moisture pulls heat away as it dries, leaving things just that bit cooler.
Because wood is slightly porous, it holds a little moisture on the surface without becoming dangerously slick. That makes it a really good candidate for this trick, especially in wooden buildings with minimal airflow.

Will it make a big difference?

💧It’s not going to turn your stable into a fridge — but it can reduce the temperature by a couple of degrees, especially if there’s some ventilation to help the moisture evaporate. In the right conditions, it can drop the internal temperature by around 2–4°C. That might not sound like much, but on a 30°C day, even a small difference can help horses feel more comfortable.
Just for context — on a 30°C day here in the UK, a stable or shelter in full sun can easily reach 35°C or more inside. That’s particularly true if it’s not insulated, or if there’s a dark roof or no shade around it. So even if you’ve brought your horse in to escape the sun, it can sometimes end up just as hot indoors — or hotter.

How to do it safely

💧 If you’d like to give it a try, it’s really simple. Just spray the inside walls, floor edges, and rubber mats (if you use them) with clean water. You don’t need to soak everything — a light misting is enough to get that cooling evaporation effect going.
It’s a good idea to sweep or muck out first, so you’re not wetting down dirty bedding or creating dust. Avoid spraying directly onto the bedding area unless you’ve removed it or are replacing it. Wet, trampled bedding doesn’t do anyone any favours!
You can repeat it throughout the day, particularly during the hottest hours — usually between 12 and 4pm. If you can open doors or windows, or encourage a bit of airflow, it’ll help the moisture evaporate faster and stop things feeling muggy.

Other ways to help horses stay cool

💧 Spraying the shelter is just one part of the picture, of course. It works best alongside other sensible steps like:
• Making sure your horse has constant access to cool, clean water
• Turning out overnight or early morning where possible
• Offering shade in the field, or using fly sheets and masks to reduce irritation
• Using salt licks or electrolytes if they’re sweating more than usual
• Avoiding exercise during the hottest part of the day

It’s the little things that add up. Spraying the inside of your wooden stable or shelter won’t change the weather — but it might help make your horse’s day just that bit more bearable during this heatwave. It’s quick, low-cost, and surprisingly effective.

If you’ve tried this already, or if you’ve got your own cooling tricks, we’d love to hear them. Let’s help each other — and our horses — get through this heat safely and comfortably.

Stay cool 💧💧💧
The Happy Horse Hub 🐴☀️💚

28/06/2025

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28/06/2025

What fun things are you doing with your horse today? 💚

28/06/2025

Calling all horsey business owners, share your business below and let's see what you sell 👀

* Pro tip: When you share add a sentence or 2 about who you are or what area you cover or if you're online. Something other than just posting your link (include that too) because Facebook tends to block your reach if you just share a link as it's SOCIAL media so if you share a sentence or 2 as well it will tend to share your business more favourably in the timeline meaning more horse owners see YOUR business 🎊🐴